M 




RESEARCHES IN GREECE 
AND THE LEVANT. 



BY THE REV JOHN HARTLEY, M.A. 

MISSIONARY IN THE MEDITERRANEAN, IN CONNECTION 
WITH THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY. 



" If the Son shall make you free, ye shall be free indeed."— John viii. 36. 



SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND REVISED. 



PUBLISHED BY R. B. SEELEY AND W. BURNSIDE 
AND SOLD BY L. B. SEELEY AND SONS, 
FLEET STREET, LONDON. 
MDCCCXXXIIL 




L< is . SEBLEVT AND SONS, WESTON GREEN, 
THAMES DITTON, SURREY. 



The Journals appended to this Work have previ- 
ously appeared in the Missionary Register and the 
Church Missionary Record, with the exception of 
some few additions and verbal alterations. 

The acknowledgements of the Author are due to 
Sir William Gell, for the Map of the Morea, 
which has been lithographed from his " Itinerary; 1 ' 
and to the Rev. J. Arundell, and the Publisher 
of his Work, for the Map of the Seven Apocalyptic 
Churches. 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 



Map of the Route of the Rev. J. Hartley, on a Visit to the 

Apocalyptic Churches to face p. 223 

Map of the Morea; with Routes of the Rev. J. Hartley p. 305 



CONTENTS. 



Bcseard)«a in ©rccte anti tf)e Eebant. 

PAG 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 

CHAPTER I. 

CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. 

Turkey the most unhappy of all countries— Deserted Burial-grounds- 
Desolations of Ephesus — Laodicea— Sardis— Diminution of popula- 
tion at Constantinople — Corfu — ^Egina — Colossse — Discovery of 
Apamea and Sagalassus— Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other 
places mentioned in Scripture, not yet discov ered— Reflections- 
Destruction of the Janissaries— Massacre of Greeks— of twenty- 
seven Samiots at Vourla— Total desolation of Psara— Disappearance 
of Mahomedans and their religion from the Morea— Unhappy con- 
dition of Women in Turkey— Polygamy— Slavery of Greek Females 
—Scene of distress at Magnesia 

CHAPTER II. 

CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. 

Desolate state of the Morea, illustrated by Scripture— Tripolitza, and 
the open country, after the last incursion of Ibrahim Pasha — Towns 
demolished — Soil in a state of devastation — Highways abandoned 
—Khans burnt— Cattle destroyed— Churches in ruins— Olive-trees 
cut down — The inhabitants taking refuge in caves and mountains — 
Fires in Turkey— Terrible conflagration at Constantinople in 1826 — 
Families resident in the tombs of the ancient ^Eginetans — Reflec- 
tions on the comparative privileges of our country — Respect paid 
to Englishmen in Turkey— Execution of Divine menaces against 
sin, exemplified in the sufferings of the Oriental Church, and in 
the decline of Turkish power 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER III. 

RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 

Primitive and Modern Christianity of the East contrasted— Inadequate 
views of human danger — Greek Preachers— Justification— Regenera- 
tion— Worship of the Virgin— Prayers addressed to her— Titles given 
her— Practical confidence in her assistance evidenced during an 
action with Pirates — Worship of Saints — St. Spiridion and other 
Patron Saints of the Ionian Islands— Singular circumstance con- 
nected with the Worship of the Archangel Michael at Colossse— 
Facility with which new Saints are worshipped — Two Spezziotes 
martyred at Scio, and sainted— Modern Greek Martyrdoms 36 



CHAPTER IV. 

RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 

Picture-Worship — Description of the Pictures in Churches— Modes of 
Worshipping them — Pictures in Houses — Emolument and imposition • 
of Painters in the Sale of Pictures, illustrated by an anecdote — 
Arguments against the Worship of Saints and Pictures from the 
Septuagint — from Epiphanius — from Chrysostom— Greek ideas of 
Fasting— Fasts observed by Pirates— The Four Lents — Articles of food 
prohibited 54 



CHAPTER V. 

RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 

The Seven Mysteries or Sacraments— Baptism— Mode of Immersion- 
Classical names given to children — The Chrism— Transubstantiation 
recently introduced amongst the Greeks— Mode of celebrating the 
Lord's Supper— A zymists and Enzymists— Confession, and absolution 
—Abuses arising from these doctrines— Anecdote of a Monk who 
confessed to the author — Excess of precaution against the marriage 
of relatives— The Holy Oil— Animosities of the Greeks and Latins — 
Procession of the Holy Ghost— View of Purgatory— Marriage of the 
Clergy— Monasticism— Concluding remarks 53 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 

MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS, 

Greek Character not inferior to Turkish — Violation of the Third Com- 
mandrnent — Anecdote of a Greek Priest, who swore with delight 
on procuring the New Testament— The Fourth Co mm andment— The 
Sixth — Dissensions during the Revolution— Rival Chieftains of the 
Morea— Vengeance inflicted on Turks— The Turk burnt alive by a 
Greek Woman — Union of Cruelty and Superstition at Spezzie — In- 
stance of Generosity to Turkish Prisoners — The Seventh Command- 
ment— Divorces— Kindness of Brothers to their Sisters — Freedom 
from Drunkenness— Rapine and Piracy— Greek Klephts— Robbery 
of an Ecclesiastic of Rank— Murder of a Bishop by the Maniotes 
—Suppression of Piracy on the arrival of Capo dTstria SO 



CHAPTER VII. 

MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. 

Falsehood of Greeks not superior to Turkish— Turkish False- witnesses 
— Conduct of Sir Thomas Maitland to Greek Judges— Illustratiorj 
of St Paul's Character of the Cretans — Disadvantages under which 
the Oriental Clergy have laboured— Excellent Character of two 
Greek Ecclesiastics, and interesting Adventure with one of them 
in the Island of Cefalonia 90 



CHAPTER VIII. 

CEMETERIES, AND RITES OF BURIAL. 

Turkish, Jewish, and Armenian Cemeteries at Smyrna and Constanti- 
nople^ — Effect produced by the English Burial-Service in Turkey 
—Greek Funerals— Illustration of the Miracle at Nain— Persons 
buried alive— The last embrace of the deceased— Professional 
Mourners — Inspection of graves at the close of twelve months- 
Superstitious ideas concerning undecayed corpses 104 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IX. 

INTRODUCTION OF THE SCRIPTURES INTO THE ORIENTAL 
CHURCH. 

Preliminary Remarks— The Greek Church, for ages, destitute of the 
Scriptures in an intelligible language — Translation into modern 
Greek procured by Cyril Lucar— His martyrdom— Hilarion's Trans- 
lation sanctioned by the Hierarchy— Scriptural circulation encou- 
raged by the Bishop of Talanta, and by the Archbishop of Smyrna 
— Sale of Scriptures at Smyrna and Constantinople — Scriptures ex- 
empted from custom-house duty at Syra— Sale in ^Egina— Suc- 
cess of Joannes Lazarides — Introduction of the Sacred Scriptures 
into the schools — The Scriptures read in several churches in Tino 
—Church of the Panagia in that island— Greek custom of citing 
the Scriptures, both in public and private — Comparison of the 
Greek and Romish Churches, in regard to the use of the Bible.. Ill 



CHAPTER X. 

CIRCULATION OF TRACTS AND OTHER RELIGIOUS PUBLICATIONS. 

Character of Greek Religious Treatises— Works of the Fathers, in 
manuscript, abundant in the Greek Monasteries— Writings of Korai 
—Interview with him at Paris — Publications of Bambas— Welcome 
reception given to Tracts 132 



CHAPTER XI. 

EDUCATION, AND SCHOOLS. 

Melancholy condition of Greek Schools— Absurd mode of instruction 
by the ancient language— The children bastinadoed, by way of 
punishment — Thirst for education — Introduction of the system of 
Mutual Instruction— Dr. Korck's flourishing School at Syra— Dili- 
gence and animation of the children— A Building erected for the 
School, at the expense of the inhabitants— Similar Schools set on 
foot in other Islands— Testimony to the labours of Dr. Korck, 
from the Courier de Smyrne — Subsequent disappointment 138 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XII. 

PUBLIC PREACHING IN GREECE. 

Sermons in the Church of the Panagia, in .Egina— Attendance of per- 
sons of distinction— Singular expressions of feeling — Sermon in 
Hydra — Description of that island— Hospitality and friendship of 
Greeks — Appearance of the congregation in the " Church of the 
Monastery" — Feelings of the Author — Subject of the Sermon, de- 
rived from the passion for liberty — Atrocious character of some 
of the Hydriotes — Massacre of three hundred Turkish slaves — 
Sermon in the Church of Megaspelaion, with a description of 
that Monastery 16s 



CHAPTER XIII. 

ENLIGHTENED GREEKS. 

Importance of inquiring for cases of individual conversion— Events in 
the house of a picture-maker— Conversion of a Greek at Constan- 
tinople — Conviction of the truth of Christianity, in the case of two 
Members of the Greek Senate, and of the Prior of a Monastery 
— Singular expression of a Greek Ecclesiastic— Story of a Native 
of Zagora— Importance of a conciliatory mode of address — Narrative 
of a painful disappointment 168 



CHAPTER XIV. 

JEWS IN TURKEY. 

Suffering condition of the Jews in Turkey — Their ill-treatment by 
the Turks illustrated— Singular question proposed by a Persian— 
The Shapgee put to death by the Grand Signor— Ill-treatment 
of the Jews by the Greeks— Pardon asked for the mention of a 
Jew— Massacre of the Jews at Tripolitza— Jews weary of waiting 
for the Messiah— Anecdote of a Jew at Salonica— The Gospel at 
length preached to the Jews of the Levant — Conversion and suf- 
ferings of three Jews at Constantinople — Means of their conversion 
— Their concealment — Their apprehension and appearance before 
Turkish Authorities — Visit paid them by the Author, in the prison 
of the Porte— Their imprisonment in the Bagnio— Apostacy of one, 
and constancy of the others— Future prospects 182 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XV. 

CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. 

Scientific Tourists, too often chargeable with folly and cruelty— Duty of 
Missionary Labour at length recognised — The object of Christian Mis- 
sions compared with that of Howard— Subject of rejoicing, that the 
light of Christianity is returning to the region from whence it first 
emanated 



Scriptural Illustrations. 

p. 207—219. 



JOURNALS OF THE REV. JOHN HARTLEY. 

VISIT TO THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES, 
IN THE YEAR 1826. 



Preliminary Remarks 223 

Smyrna 225 

From Smyrna to Ephesus 228 

Ephesus 231 

From Ephesus to Laodicea 240 

Laodicea 256 

From Laodicea to Colossse 260 

From Colossal to Apamea and Isbarta 268 

From Isbarta to Philadelphia 273 

Philadelphia 287 

Sardis 293 

From Sardis to Thyatira 295 

From Thyatira to Smyrna 299 

Second Visit to Thyatira 301 



CONTENTS. 



TOUR IN THE MOREA, 
IN THE YEAR 1828. 



iEgina , 305 

Poros , 309 

Hydra 315 

Kastri 316 

Kranidi 31 9 

Napoli di Romania 322 

Argos 326 

Tripolitza 328 

Mistra 330 

Leondari 336 

Karidena 338 

Demitzani 343 



Zatouna 
Livargi 
Kalaviita 
Megaspelaion 
Phonia 
Napoli 
Kiveri 
Astros 
Karakovouni 
Lenidi 
Astros. . 
Argos . . 



^ppentftx (No. I.) 

JOURNAL OF JOANNES LAZARIDES , 



^ppmtttx (No. II.) 
LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

AND 

THE LEVANT. 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

The Ottoman Empire has long comprised within 
its borders the most interesting countries in the 
world. To some persons, these countries present 
claims of interest, from the beauties of Nature, and 
the superiority of climate which they boast. Nor 
are these pretensions wholly groundless. Who can 
survey the spacious plains, the magnificent moun- 
tains, the extensive forests, the multitude of islands 
washed by the blue and transparent waves, and 
survey them through a most brilliant atmosphere, 
without being convinced that he has before him 
some of the most striking scenes which the human 

B 



2 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



eye can behold? " The plains of Asia Minor seem 
ready to start into fertility with a single touch : but, 
alas ! that touch is wanting-." This was the lan- 
guage of an English Traveller, in regard to one of 
these objects ; and an imagination equally vivid 
would give equal colouring to other Levantine 
scenes. The Sacred Writings style the most re- 
markable of these districts, a land flowing ivith milk 
and honey — the glory of all lands : and this lan- 
guage is almost applicable to the entire territory 
which is now denominated Turkey. 

To others, these lands are interesting, from the 
classical recollections which they furnish. " Here," 
they reflect, " the light of civilization shone with 
brightness, whilst the rest of the world was involved 
in barbarism. Here were born those distinguished 
individuals who are considered to this hour as having 
been rarely equalled, and perhaps never surpassed, 
for efforts of genius, for refinement of arts, and for 
deeds of heroism." What a perpetual tribute of 
respect is paid to Ancient Greece, by the study 
which is given to her language ! The mind of youth 
is moulded and formed by the models of Greek 
Literature which are left us ; and, in this manner, 
the influence of Greece is co-extensive with the 
magnitude, and will perhaps be perpetual as the 
duration, of the world. 

But for Christians, various parts of the Turkish 
Dominions have a most sacred interest, in the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



3 



Scriptural recollections which they furnish. If it 
be a law of our nature, that localities distinguished 
by important events invite and rivet our attention, 
and allure the traveller from the most distant regions, 
such feelings may be expected to arrive at their 
utmost pitch of excitement in the contemplation 
of places where God himself has signally and super- 
naturally displayed His power. Each spot trodden 
by an Apostle must be regarded by Christians with 
some of those feelings of solemn and serious delight, 
which they cannot describe, and which none but 
themselves can understand. At the place where a 
Martyr died, or where his corpse was interred, the 
most languid believer may be expected to form new 
resolutions of devotedness to his Divine Master, and 
consecrate himself to new fidelity in following those 
who through the faith of suffering and the patience 
of martyrdom inherited the promises. And cold, 
indeed, must be the heart of that man, who is 
capable of the least approximation to insensibility 
whilst visiting the memorable places where the 
Saviour of sinners was born or educated ; where 
He taught, acted, and — above all — suffered. I 
must own, that whilst I deeply regret the pernicious 
superstition which has rendered the Tomb of our 
Lord one of the most melancholy spots on the sur- 
face of the earth, it has always appeared to me a 
species of devotion, sometimes allied to that which 
is spiritual and sincere, and possibly, in some in- 
B 2 



4 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



stances, connected with true faith in the Redeemer. 
Who would willingly possess the eye which refused 
to weep on Mount Calvary ; or claim the heart 
which could not glow where our Redeemer ascended 
from earth to heaven ? 

My first visit to the city of Corinth awakened 
feelings within me of very pleasing seriousness. 
Approaching from the road of Argos, I found the 
most celebrated classical scenery gradually unfolding 
itself before me — Parnassus, with its poetic recol- 
lections, came in view — soon afterwards Helicon 
appeared — then Cithaeron was visible. But to me, 
at that moment, this scene presented attractions 
scarcely susceptible. I was under the influence 
of superior charms, and felt myself engaged by 
more elevated recollections. I remembered, that 
I was now treading on ground which had received 
the footsteps of the great Apostle of the Gentiles ; 
that it was here, St. Paul determined to know 
nothing amongst men save Jesus Christ and him 
crucified; that at Corinth, by the Divine blessing 
on his labours, a primitive Church was collected, to 
which the language was addressed, Ye are washed, 
ye are sanctified, ye are justified, in the name of the 
Lord Jesus, and by the Spirit of our God. Under 
the force of such ideas, 1 looked with coldness on 
Parnassus, and with comparative indifference on 
Helicon and Cithseron. Parnassus was more in- 
teresting to me, from the reflection that the eye 



AND THE LEVANT. 



5 



of St. Paul had rested on it, than from any other 
cause: I was delighted, because I could hold a 
species of distant communion with him, by means 
of this classical mountain. How unfeigned is the 
respect which we feel for those whom we believe 
to be really living to serve God and to make 
others happy; in whom the devotional and the 
benevolent feelings have proved superior to those 
which are earthly and selfish ! Their honours will 
endure, and increase in splendour, when all the 
fame which stood only in connexion with Parnassus 
and Classical Greece will have sunk in eternal 
oblivion, or be consigned to merited insignificance. 
Be it ours, then, to set our affections on things 
above, not on tilings on the earth ! May our ambi- 
tion rise higher than the highest ambition which is 
earthly ! May we come decidedly, in faith and 
spirit, unto Mount Zion, to the city of the living 
God, the heavenly Jerusalem! May we yield our- 
selves devotedly to the service of Christ, as did the 
Apostles whom we commemorate, till, in the event, 
we are spectators of nobler scenes, and partake 
of richer enjoyment, than earthly prospects or 
recollections can furnish ! 



B 3 



CHAPTER I. 



CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. 

Turkey the most unhappy of all countries — Deserted Burial-grounds- 
Desolations of Ephesus — Laodicea — Sardis — Diminution of population at 
Constantinople — Corfu — ^Egina — Colossae — Discovery of Apamea and Sa- 
galassus — Site of Antioch of Pisidia, and other places mentioned in 
Scripture, not yet discovered — Reflections — Destruction of the Janissaries 
—Massacre of Greeks— of twenty-seven Samiots at Vourla— Total deso- 
lation of Psara — Disappearance of Mahomedans and their religion from 
the Morea — Unhappy condition of Women in Turkey — Polygamy — Slavery 
of Greek Females— Scene of distress at Magnesia. 

Turkey, whether regarded in a secular or religious 
point of view, presents a dark and dismal picture. 
Its history, like the roll of Ezekiel, is written, within 
and without, with lamentation, and mourning and 
woe. To the religious state of the empire we shall 
chiefly direct our attention ; but the calamities not 
strictly religious, which have befallen these lands, 
stand in such intimate connexion with religious 
considerations, and afford room for reflections of so 
serious a character, that we shall not hesitate to 
commence with them. 

Were it requisite to place a motto at the head of 
this chapter, we should find one highly appropriate 
in the language of the Prophet : — Destruction upon 



8 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



destruction is cried; for the whole land is spoiled. 
Against our entire globe, it is true, divine displea- 
sure is directed : on every man, as a sinner, divine 
indignation is ready to be discharged : but if there 
be any part of our world more exposed than another 
to the righteous vengeance of God, it is surely the 
Ottoman Empire. It might seem as if there the 
thunders of Heaven rolled with more awful rever- 
beration, and as if there the lightnings of God's 
displeasure were doomed to display their most de- 
structive agency, and to sear, consume, and desolate 
with unaccustomed effect. These lands, once the 
most favoured, are now the most chastised of all 
countries. 

Few occurrences can evince more clearly a cala- 
mitous condition of the human race than habitual 
diminution of population. One of the first and most 
powerful laws of our nature is, Increase and mul- 
tiply. When we, therefore, observe an instinct so 
imperative frustrated, and the most powerful tenden- 
cies of Nature turned out of their due course, there 
can be no doubt that some mighty evil is at work. 
And such is precisely the case in the Turkish Em- 
< pire. In whatever direction the traveller proceeds, 
he observes cemeteries crowded with the dead : and 
if he inquire where are their descendants, no answer 
can be given. Frequently, no town, no village, no 
cottage on the borders of the deserted burial- 
ground, can suggest the reply, " Here are the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



9 



children of the deceased." And when the monu- 
mental epitaph has become illegible, and no more 
bears its testimony to the name and existence of 
former generations, still does the close array of dark 
and mournful cypress-trees present impressive in- 
formation of the multitudes interred beneath them. 
That the human race in Turkey really does " fade 
away and perish, beneath the eye of the observer," 
may be further evidenced by the circumstance, that 
Constantinople is supposed to have diminished its 
population by 300,000, since the year 1812. 

But the astonishing loss of population, which 
those parts of the world have sustained since an- 
cient times, is still more affecting. I have wandered 
amidst the ruins of Ephesus ; and T had ocular and 
auricular demonstration, that where once assembled 
thousands exclaimed, Great is Diana of the Ephe- 
sians, now the eagle yells, the jackal moans, the 
echoes of Mount Prion and Mount Coryssus no 
longer reply to the voice of man. I have stood on 
the Hill of Laodicea, and I found it without a 
single resident inhabitant. There was, indeed, an 
inferiority in its desolations to those of Babylon. 
Of Babylon it was predicted (Isaiah xiii. 20,) The 
Arabian shall not pitch tent there. At Laodicea, 
the Turcoman had pitched his migratory tent in the 
area of its ancient amphitheatre ; but I saw neither 
church nor temple, mosque nor minaret, nor a 
single permanent abode. The capital of the island 

B 5 



10 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



of Corfu— to allude to a place adjacent to Turkey 
— is reported to have once contained 120,000 in- 
habitants : now, the entire island only numbers 
60,000. Athenseus assures us, on the authority of 
Aristotle, that JEgma formerly possessed a slave 
population of 470,000 : now, the total number of 
iEginetans is probably not more than 12,000. I 
have myself observed the exactitude with which the 
denunciations of divine anger against the three 
Churches of Ephesus, Sardis, and Laodicea have 
been fulfilled. Whilst the other four Churches 
of Asia, which are in part commended, and in part 
more mildly menaced, are still populous cities, and 
contain communities of nominal Christians, of each 
of these it may now be said, that it is empty, and 
void, and ivaste. And though the Arabian may 
pitch tent at Laodicea, and the shepherds, as at 
Ephesus, make their fold there, still have they 
scarcely been inhabited or dwelt in from generation 
to generation. Wild beasts of the desert lie there 
— hyaenas, wolves, and foxes. Their houses are 
full of doleful creatures: scorpions, enormous cen- 
tipedes, lizards, and other noxious reptiles, crawl 
about amidst the scattered ruins ; and serpents hiss 
and dart along through the rank grass which grows 
above them. And owls dwell there. When I was 
standing beneath the three stupendous columns of 
the Temple of Cybele, which are still remaining at 
Sardis, I looked upward and saw the species of owl 



AND THE LEVANT. 



11 



which the Greeks call Cuckuvaia, perched on the 
summit of one of them. Its name is derived from 
its note ; and, as it flits around the desolate ruins, 
emitting this doleful sound, it might almost seem 
to have been appointed to chaunt from age to age 
the dirge of these forsaken cities. And here the 
distich of Hafiz is most true : 

The spider has wove his web in the imperial palace; 

And the owl hath sung her watch-song on the towers of Afrasiab. 

I paid a visit to the city of Colossae — if that, 
indeed, may be called a visit, which left us in some 
degree of uncertainty whether we had actually dis- 
covered its remains. Colossae has become doubly 
desolate : its very ruins are scarcely visible. Many 
a harvest has been reaped, where Epaphras and 
Archippus laboured. The vine has long produced 
its fruits, where the ancient Christians of Colossa? 
lived and died ; and the leaves of the forest have 
for ages been strewn upon their graves. The 
Turks, and even the Greeks who reap the harvest 
and who prune the vine where Colossae once stood, 
have scarcely an idea that a Christian Church ever 
existed there, or that so large a population is there 
reposing in death. 

How total is the work of demolition and depo- 
pulation in those regions, is evident from the fact, 
that the site of many ancient cities is still unknown. 
It was owing to the exertions of Mr. Arundell, 



12 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

my fellow-traveller in Asia, that the remains of 
Apamea and Sagalassus were brought to light : and 
there are still cities mentioned in the Acts of the 
Apostles which have eluded research. Where is 
Antioch of Pisidia 1 Where are Lystra and Derbe, 
cities of Lycaonia ? Where is Perga of Pam- 
phylia? We sought for Antioch, on our journey 
through Pisidia ; but its place, as yet, has not been 
found. Count Alexandre de Laborde, a French 
gentleman, distinguished for his scientific attain- 
ments, went in search of Lystra and Derbe. An 
opinion had obtained ground, that extensive ruins, 
at a place named, by the Turks, Bin bir kilisi, 
■ The thousand and one churches,' were the remains 
of one of these cities. But, as I was informed by 
Count Laborde, it proved, on examination, that the 
opinion was altogether unfounded. 

After so many remarks on the desolation of an- 
cient cities, it would be culpable in a Christian 
to proceed with his task, without adverting to the 
very solemn lessons which these scenes are calcu- 
lated to teach. When I stood amidst these ancient 
ruins, every pedestal, stone, and fragment appeared 
to have a voice. A most impressive eloquence 
addressed me from mouldering columns, falling 
temples, ruined theatres, decayed arches, broken 
cisterns, and from aqueducts, baths, and sarcophagi, 
and other nameless masses of ruin. The very si- 
lence of the spot had language. The wind, as it 



AND THE LEVANT. 



13 



sighed through the forsaken habitations, seemed to 
carry with it the voice of twenty or thirty centuries. 
I know not if I ever spent a more solemn or more 
edifying day, than that which was passed amongst 
the ruins of Ephesus. 

Here, it was a natural reflection, is grandeur in 
its grave ; power in its sepulchre ; beauty consigned 
to the loathsome worm ; earthly glory in the dust. 
Here are kings without their honours, without 
adulation, without crowns — heroes, without their 
banners, without triumph, without renown. The 
admirer and the admired are alike forgotten. The 
despiser and the despised have met with a similar 
fate. Whole generations have gone down, earth to 
earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust ! 

Reflection on scenes so full of solemn interest 
might be expected to leave no heart unimpressed, 
no individual unprofited. How ought it to disen- 
chant us from the fatal fascinations of this delusive 
world !— how, to break that magic spell which binds 
us to destructive folly! — how, to withdraw from 
earth, and to propel to Heaven ! to speak wisdom 
to the very ear and heart of folly ; and to startle 
from their lethargy of death, all mortals, who direct 
no hopes nor plans beyond the brief span of human 
life, nor have enjoyments which can survive them, 
when their bodies sink into the dust ! The Chris- 
tian, amidst the ruins of Ephesus or Corinth, will 
repeat, with serious emphasis, the language of 



14 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Scripture : Here we have no continuing city — We 
look for a city, which hath foundations, whose 
builder and maker is God. Our citizenship is in 
heaven ; from whence, also, we look for the Saviour, 
the Lord Jesus Christ. 

The story of desolation is by no means ended. 
I have chiefly alluded to ancient destruction ; — that 
of modern times is no less appalling. 

In every previous age, the evils which stand con 
nected with anarchy, insurrection, and warfare, 
have desolated and depopulated the Turkish empire 
to a fearful extent. Nor are the times in which we 
live an exception to the general rule. Of former 
calamities I have nothing to relate. It is my 
office to detail some of the horrors, which, in a 
greater or less degree, have fallen within my own 
observation. 

I visited Constantinople, four or five days after 
the destruction of the Janissaries. On that occa- 
sion, thousands, as is believed, had fallen in the 
streets of the capital beneath the sword and the 
artillery of the grand Signor ; and thousands were 
banished into distant and hopeless exile. To one 
living in Constantinople at the time, it was not 
unusual to behold Mussulman corpses exposed in the 
streets during the regular period of three days ; and 
to see dead bodies floating upon the waves of the 
Bosphorus. To those resident on the shores of the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



15 



canal, the disgusting sight was not unfrequent, 
of a human corpse, borne by the current against 
their dwelling, and seeming to attempt a landing 
almost at their door. Proceeding one day from 
Constantinople to Therapia, a distance of about nine 
miles, I counted no less than seven such bodies. 
The large mass of human victims had naturally been 
conveyed, by the force of the current, into the Mar- 
mara : and the captains of vessels, coming from the 
Dardanelles, reported their having fallen in with 
whole shoals of them ; a circumstance by no means 
incredible, considering the immense number of per- 
sons killed and thrown into the sea. 

But the sword of the Sultan and of his Mussul- 
man subjects has been turned more awfully against 
Christians, than against any other class of persons. 
There was a period, soon after the opening of the 
Greek revolution, when it was almost certain death 
for a Greek to make his appearance in the streets 
of Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places. Not 
a few of our countrymen have seen Greeks laid 
dead at their feet by the fire-arms of their Turkish 
enemies. The Turks went in chase of victims of 
this description, apparently with as little remorse 
as the sportsman pursues his game. When I visited 
Vourla, near the ancient Clazomense, the Greeks 
conducted me to the charnel-house of their church, 
and there shewed me the sculls of twenty-seven 
young Samiots, who had all been sacrificed by the 



16 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Turks. This work of butchery had been perpetrated 
at the same time, and in the same place. The 
strokes of the yhataghans were still visible. 

The more public warfare of the Greek revolution 
has been characterized by two peculiarities, which 
are scarcely known in the wars of civilized nations. 
One is, the totality of desolation and destruction, 
which has fallen upon some places. Prior to the 
period of which we speak, the island of Psara pos- 
sessed a population of many thousand inhabitants. 
The traveller who visited this island, found a large 
and pleasing" town situated upon it. He was de- 
lighted with the commercial activity and cheerful 
contentment which it everywhere exhibited. He 
found the country adorned with gardens, with olive- 
grounds, and vineyards. Its harbour was visited 
by vessels of large construction, and manned by 
seamen of a bold and able character. The bells of 
the churches were constantly heard, summoning the 
inhabitants to the solemnities of their religious ser- 
vice ; and the Ipsariote women were seen moving 
about in a costume peculiarly pleasing. The waves 
around the island were ever bearing upon their 
bosom the Ipsariote ships, extending their canvass to 
the breeze, and sailing away on some distant enter- 
prise; or returning from their voyages with the 
fruits of their toils and exertions. But now, how 
changed the scene ! The traveller who should visit 
Psara, would scarcely recognise the spot. The 



AND THE LEVANT. 



17 



vindictive passions of the Turks have exhausted 
their fury so fatally upon it, that it is become 
wholly desolate. No white town glittering from afar 
is visible. The church-going bell has been silenced. 
The streets and public places are deserted by their 
thronging visitants. No vessels which appear in 
sight steer their course for the harbour, but pass 
with rapidity to some distant port. The houses are 
in ruins, and the whole town has been destroyed. 
An awful silence has succeeded to the hum and 
activity of the Ipsariote population ; and the sea- 
gull and the eagle may now claim undisturbed pos- 
session of the entire island. 

Of the Ipsariots themselves, many fell by the 
sword ; a large portion of the female population are 
in slavery ; and those who escaped both these evils 
are dispersed through the islands of the Archi- 
pelago. 

The woes which have been inflicted on Scio and 
other places are not inferior to those of Psara : but 
there is a difference in this respect between them, 
that there is a prospect of gradual recovery in the 
former instance, while Psara appears to be aban- 
doned to irretrievable desolation. 

It is not to the Greeks alone that we have to look 
for examples of this universal extent of ruin on 
which we treat. One signal instance may be cited, 
even in regard to Mussulmans. But recently, a 
large Mahomedan population was diffused through- 



18 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



out the Morea : they filled its towns and its villages, 
and were even residing in the open country. Now, 
the whole of that population has been swept away 
from the surface of the soil. Many of them have 
sunk in the dust beneath them. Their blood ferti- 
lizes the territory, which but lately was marked by 
their footsteps ; but the major part are exiles. They 
have been cast upon the shores of Egypt and Asia 
Minor, and the place which once knew them, knows 
them now no more. 

The religion of Mahomet has of course disap- 
peared with those who professed it. For ages, the 
cry had resounded, five times each day, from the 
minarets of the Morea, " There is no God but God, 
and Mahomet is the prophet of God." Now that 
cry is unheard. The very minarets, from which 
those words were proclaimed are, in great part, laid 
in the dust ; and the mosques, which formerly were 
adorned by them, are become Christian churches. 
I have visited a building in the Morea, which had 
originally been a Christian church. Subsequently 
it had long been a Mussulman mosque : it has now 
again become a Christian temple. 

The other peculiarity of Turkish warfare is one 
which assimilates it to the wars of ancient and scrip- 
tural times. I allude to the revolting custom of 
carrying into captivity the entire female population. 
The state of women, generally, in the Turkish em- 
pire, has been most unhappy. Polygamy, amongst 



AND THE LEVANT. 



39 



the Turks, has induced all the evils consequent on 
that unlawful practice. The mutual jealousies which 
exist in the Turkish harems, are such as to lead to 
the most fatal consequences. A very respectable 
Greek physician of Constantinople mentioned to me 
a recent instance, which had fallen under his obser- 
vation, of a Greek captive who was poisoned through 
the jealousy of a Turkish woman in the harem : and 
it is far from uncommon for the women to poison 
each other. Indeed, if the wives of the Patriarch 
Jacob were unhappy through mutual jealousy, what 
may be expected of the wives of Mahomedans I 
The reports which circulate in Turkey lead to the 
supposition, that a similar cause, the passionate 
desire of children, is one of the principal sources 
of these domestic dissentions. 

The condition of Greek has been, however, much 
more distressing than that of Turkish females. The 
violence to which they were exposed, more espe- 
cially in the Island of Candia, was one of the prin- 
cipal causes of the revolution, as the Greeks have 
often informed me ; and their miseries have reached 
their greatest height, in the places which fell into 
the hands of the Turks. 

Our compassion is often solicited in favour of 
negro females sold as slaves ; and our feelings 
revolt at the idea of their being subjected to the 
whip, and torn from their husbands and parents. 
But the circumstance of negroes being of a different 



20 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



complexion, and not having arrived at that elegance 
of manners and cultivation of mind, which is the 
privilege of white persons, appears materially to 
lessen our sensibilities on the subject. But none 
of these false principles of mitigation can be called 
into exercise in regard to the women of Greece. 
The females of that country have a complexion like 
our own. They have not indeed, in a large number 
of instances, received a liberal education, yet are 
they distinguished by much that is elegant and 
attractive. This was more especially the case with 
the females of Scio. 

How strongly, then, might we suppose the feel- 
ings of compassion would be excited, at the thought 
of multitudes of these persons who have been made 
to experience all the woes of Turkish slavery. 
They have been torn from their parents, their 
brothers, and their friends; and many of those 
relatives they have seen slain before their eyes. 
They have been separated for ever from the place 
of their birth, and sold in the slave-bazaars of Con- 
stantinople, Smyrna, and many other places. They 
have been led away to all the different parts of the 
Turkish Empire, and inclosed in Mussulman harems, 
in many instances never to emerge ; and not unfre- 
quently they have been treated with extreme cruelty. 
Of the sorrows which the Greek captives experience, 
I was once made deeply sensible in the town of 
Magnesia. It was in the year 1829, when I hap- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



21 



pened to be present at the solemnities of the Greek 
Easter. According- to custom, they were reading 
the Gospel for the day in a variety of languages, 
and a large concourse of Greeks thronged the church. 
The Archbishop of Ephesus was also present, and 
officiating with much pomp ; and the aspect of the 
church, and of the whole scene, was the most festive 
imaginable. But at the large door of the building-, 
a scene of a very different character was exhibited. 
A considerable number of female captives were 
ranged, and, if I recollect right, in a kneeliug- pos- 
ture, along- the outside. Their Turkish masters 
had indulged them so far, as to permit them, on this 
occasion, to survey the worship of their church and 
the persons of their countrymen. It was however, 
to them, a painful instead of a joyful spectacle. 
Their flowing tears and evident distress very clearly 
intimated how keenly they felt their separation from 
their friends and countrymen, and how painful was 
their whole condition of servitude. 

The debasement of feeling which their Turkish 
masters display on this subject, is another evidence 
how melancholy must be their state. On a journey 
which I made from Constantinople to Smyrna, in 
company of Hadji Mustapha, a native of Tunis, he 
spoke of the purchase he had lately made of a Sciot 
captive, with as much composure as an Englishman 
might speak of the purchase of a horse or a dog. 

To calamities like these has the daughter of Scio, 



22 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 



of Psara, of Haivali, of Missolonghi, and of many 
other places, been subject. The story of the cap- 
ture of these islands and towns would probably re- 
semble, in many points, the history of the capture 
of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar : Our inheritance 
is turned to strangers, our houses to aliens: — the 
captive may adopt this language of the Book of 
Lamentations (ch. v. 2, 3, 5 — 8) : We are orphans 
and fatherless ; our mothers are as widows. . . . Our 
necks are under persecution: we labour, and have 
no rest. We have given the hand to the Egyptians, 
and to the Assyrians, to be satisfied with bread. 
Our fathers have sinned, and are not ; and we 
have borne their iniquities. Servants have ruled 
over us: there is none that doth deliver us out 
of their hand. 



CHAPTER II. 



CALAMITIES OF TURKEY. 

Desolate state of the Morea, illustrated by Scripture— Tripolitza, and the 
open country, after the last incursion of Ibrahim Pasha— Towns demo- 
lished — Soil in a state of devastation — Highways abandoned — Khans 
burnt — Cattle destroyed — Churches in ruins— Olive-trees cut down — 
The inhabitants taking refuge in caves and mountains — Fires in Turkey 
— Terrible conflagration at Constantinople in 1 826— Families resident in 
the tombs of the ancient ^Eginetans — Reflections on the comparative 
privileges of our country — Respect paid to Englishmen in Turkey — 
Execution of Divine menaces against sin, exemplified in the sufferings 
of the Oriental Church, and in the decline of Turkish power. 

In regard to that territory, which for many years 
has suffered the horrors of revolution and anarchy, 
and been the theatre of Turkish warfare, I have 
often been struck to observe, how very accurately 
the descriptions of the state of Judea by the ancient 
Prophets are applicable to it. To the Greeks may 
be addressed the language : Your country is deso- 
late ; your cities are burned with fire : your land, 
strangers devour it in your presence ; and it is deso- 
late, as overthrown by strangers. I passed through 
the principal parts of the Morea, soon after the last 
incursion of the Arab army. In the chief towns, 



24 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



and in a multitude of the country villages, not a 
dwelling remained entire. In Tripolitza, the capi- 
tal, the work of demolition had been complete. 
Not only was the green grass growing amidst the 
ruins of the palace of the Pashas of the Morea, but 
every mosque, every church, every dwelling, and 
even every wall, had been thrown down. The de- 
struction of Tripolitza seemed only second to that 
of Jerusalem : Not one stone shall be left upon 
another, which shall not be thrown down. And in 
what condition may the soil be supposed to have been ? 
In a state literally fulfilling the prophecy of Isaiah 
concerning Judah (vii. 23) : It shall come to pass, 
that every place shall be, where there were a thou- 
sand vines at a thousand silverlings, it shall even be 
for briers and thorns .... all the land shall become 
briers and thorns. 

A description in the book of Judges (ch. v. 6), 
of the effects of hostile invasion, is a description 
true in regard to Greece : In the days of Shamgar 
the son of Anath, the highways were unoccupied, 
and the travellers walked through by-ways. Passing 
from Argos to Tripolitza, and from the latter place 
to Mistra, two of the principal roads in the Morea, 
I found this language most correct. It was rare to 
meet a traveller. I only met one between Tripo- 
litza and Mistra ; and the roads presented the ap- 
pearance of having been long disused. I might 
bring forward facts to prove, that the very language 



AND THE LEVANT. 



25 



of Jeremiah (ix. 10) is capable of application : For 
the mountains will I take up a weeping and wailing, 
and for the habitations of the wilderness a lamenta- 
tion, because they are burned up ... . neither can 
men hear the voice of the cattle : both the fowl of 
the heavens and the beast are fed; they are gone, 
— The habitations of the wilderness appear to ex- 
press those solitary Khans or lodging-places for tra- 
vellers, which are often at equal distances, in Turkey, 
between large towns. The Prophet clearly alludes 
to them in another place : Oh that I had in the 
wilderness a lodging-place of wayfaring men, that I 
might leave my people, and go from them ! I ob- 
served that these habitations of the wilderness were 
uniformly burned up. The cattle had been destroyed 
to such an extent, that I was not only astonished at 
the immense quantity of their bones which met my 
eye, but the Greeks complained that they had not 
oxen to plough their land : and the destruction of 
the storks at Argos, mentioned in my Journal, might 
seem illustrative of the expression, The fowl of the 
heavens are fed : I do not recollect to have seen 
a single stork all the time I was in the Morea. Of 
a multitude of churches, the Greeks may adopt the 
language (Isaiah lxiv. 11) : Our holy and our beau- 
tiful house, where our fathers praised thee, is burned 
up with fire ; and all our pleasant things are laid 
waste. One of the most serious losses of Greece has 
consisted in the wanton destruction of its olive-trees. 

c 



26 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Iii the district of Corone alone, as Mr. King- informs 
us, no less than 290,000 trees have been cut down 
by the Arabs. Under such circumstances, the con- 
dition of Greece had almost become what was re- 
garded by the Prophet as the consummation of mis- 
fortunes : Although the Jig-tree shall not blossom , 
neither shall fruit he in the vines: the labour 
of the olive shall fail, and the fields shall yield 
no meat; the flock shall be cut off from the fold, 
and there shall be no herd in the stalls ; yet will 
I rejoice in the Lord ; I will joy in the God of my 
salvation. 

Not to pass unnoticed the condition of the inha- 
bitants of the Morea, amidst this complication of 
distresses, we may observe, that in regard to them 
the prophecies have been fulfilled (Isaiah ii. 19, 21): 
They shall go into the holes of the rocks, and into 
the caves of the earth . . . into the clefts of the rocks, 
and into the tops of the ragged rocks. Others fled, 
as a bird, to their mountains ; but, in most cases, 
in vain was salvation hoped from the hills and from 
the multitude of mountains: their pursuers were 
more active and merciless than tigers ; and many 
found their death on those very mountains in which 
they hoped for safety, and were hurled down from 
the summits of those rocks which they had expected 
to find their house of defence and their castle. I 
found the remark universal in the Morea, that, 
whilst men who had concealed themselves in caverns, 



AND THE LEVANT. 27 

escaped to a very considerable extent, such persons 
as had confided in the height or inaccessible nature 
of mountains had met with destruction. 

The subject of destruction and spoliation is so 
copious, that it might be enlarged on, to an unli- 
mited extent : but I shall only touch on a few other 
examples. Accidental fires have ever been common 
in Turkish towns. Very frequently the cry " Yan- 
gueen war (Fire)" startles the sleeping population 
from their slumbers ; and gives a practical illustra- 
tion to the Scriptural language : Why art thou 
wholly gone up to the house-tops ? It is customary 
in Turkey, on every alarm of fire, for all persons 
instantly to resort to the top of the house, in order, 
from that elevation, to discover the quarter in which 
the fire has made its appearance. And should it 
be found that it is in the direction from whence the 
wind proceeds, serious apprehensions are enter- 
tained ; for it often happens that conflagrations travel 
to a very considerable distance. 

In the year 1826, the most destructive fire oc- 
curred at Constantinople which had been known 
for fifty years. With what fatal violence a con- 
flagration would spread at such a moment may be 
judged of by the facts, that little or no rain had 
fallen for a considerable space of time ; that the 
city of Constantinople is composed almost wholly 
of wooden buildings ; and that, during summer, 
the fine Etesian wind, which blows from the Black 
c 2 



28 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

Sea, scarcely ever fails to spring up in the morning, 
and often freshens to a powerful breeze. Here, 
indeed, was a mass of combustible materials, not 
only ready to be ignited, but to communicate the 
flames to an unknown extent. Precisely under 
these circumstances, a spark, from some undisco- 
vered cause, communicated itself to one of the 
houses on the shore of the Golden Horn, not far 
from the wall of the Seraglio. In a moment, 
that spark became a flame. The flames soon laid 
hold of the adjoining dwellings, and, with astonish- 
ing rapidity, poured like a fiery inundation upon 
the principal part of the city. The torrents of 
fire took their course in the direction of Santa 
Sophia ; and that venerable pile, around which 
such awful scenes of carnage and ruin in successive 
ages have been exhibited, was enveloped in smoke, 
and its dome menaced. The flames continued to 
rage for more than twenty-four hours, and only 
terminated their progress at the waves of the sea 
of Marmara. Thus did the conflagration pass from 
sea to sea, across the peninsula on which the city 
is built, and actually present the appearance of 
waves of flame between two oceans of water. At 
Therapia, ten miles up the Bosphorus, we were 
soon made sensible of the terrific catastrophe which 
was in progress, by volumes of smoke rising from 
the burning city. Even this spectacle reminded 
me of the description which is given us in the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



29 



scriptures of the destruction of Sodom and Go- 
morrah: The smoke of the city went up as the 
smoke of a furnace : but at night the spectacle was 
more awfully grand : spires of flame, darting forth 
from the burning houses, were most distinctly vi- 
sible ; and the light which was spread through the 
sky seemed to insult the stars. The effect of this 
tremendous scene on the inhabitants of Constan- 
tinople and its neighbourhood were what might be 
expected. Hundreds of thousands were looking 
on, aghast with dismay and astonishment. It was 
reported, that the Grand Signor himself hurried 
to the battlements of his Seraglio, and, gazing upon 
his capital in flames, fainted with terror and vexa- 
tion. The alarm of the moment was indeed ex- 
treme. The idea was general, that the calamity 
was owing to a new revolution of the Janissaries, 
and that it was in this manner they had commenced 
their insurrection. Thus did men's hearts fail them 
for fear, and for looking after those things which 
seemed to be coming on the earth. The consterna- 
tion occasioned by the calamity was so great, that 
it led to most exaggerated statements. It was even 
asserted that two thirds of the city had been laid 
in ashes. An eighth of Constantinople, I was cre- 
dibly informed, had actually been consumed. On 
walking over the ruins, the day after the event, 
I found it impossible to trace, from any point 
which I visited, the extent of the catastrophe. A 



30 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



fearful chasm had been opened from one sea to the 
other, and thousands were left destitute of home 
and habitation. 

To give a proper idea of the calamities to which 
Turkey is exposed, it would be necessary to pre- 
sent a detailed account of the ravages of the plague. 
This awful visitation is ever prevailing, to a greater 
or less degree, in the different provinces of Turkey ; 
and this, perhaps, is a principal cause of the de- 
population of the empire. 

But neither on this subject can we dwell, nor 
on the misery connected with poverty, which of 
late years -has been great. The excessive distress 
of this kind, which befel the theatre of war during; 
the Greek Revolution, may be in part conceived 
by the fact, to which 1 can myself bear witness, 
that during the winter of 1827 — 28 there were 
families in iEgina actually residing in the tombs 
of the ancient .ZEginetans. I also heard of persons 
who were found dead of starvation in these re- 
ceptacles of misery. 

The recital before us instructs us in the disastrous 
effects of misrule, and in the high value by which 
our own political privileges ought to be estimated. 
We often descant, in this country, on that excellent 
constitution which secures so amply the rights and 
property of Englishmen. But much as we may 
say, and much as we may feel, on this subject, 
I am fully persuaded that neither our expressions 



AND THE LEVANT. 



31 



nor feelings are adequate to the magnitude of the 
blessing. To form a more correct idea of our na- 
tional advantages, we ought to be subjects of the 
Ottoman empire for some portion of our existence : 
we ought to have our full share of exposure to 
those general evils which have in part been de- 
scribed ; and we ought to have some of those 
sensations, which distress the hearts of men, whose 
property, at any uncertain moment, may be torn 
from them ; whose virtue, piety, and religion only 
render them more effectually and speedily the spoil 
of the oppressor ; who may see their most endeared 
objects of conjugal affection and parental tender- 
ness separated from them by the hand of brutal 
violence ; who may become the inmates of a prison, 
the subject of the lacerating bastinado, and the 
very spoil of death — and why ? simply, because 
Injustice has so decreed it. 

Nor is the favour of God to England confined 
within the shores of our island, or limited to the 
shadow of our national flag. Even on Turkish 
ground, the expression, " I am an Englishman," 
is certain to ensure respect. I have often been 
reminded of the privileges possessed by Roman 
citizens on this identical soil, by the immunities 
conferred on Englishmen. Then they feared, when 
they knew he ivas a Roman. This was the expe- 
rience of antiquity. Now they fear when they know 
we are Englishmen. I mean not to intimate, that 



32 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Englishmen enjoy these privileges exclusively of 
the subjects of other Christian States ; but certain 
I am, that no man is more respected than an 
Englishman, either by Turks or Greeks. 

A view of the calamities of Turkey instructs us, 
also, in the certain execution of Divine menaces. 
The Greek Church has participated in that awful 
apostacy from true religion, which was so clearly 
foretold by the apostles. In the progress of this 
work, we shall have too much occasion to delineate 
some of the features of this apostacy. And what 
has been the consequence ? Hosts of furious in- 
vaders have poured in upon the lands once wholly 
possessed by Christians ; they have inflicted the 
most serious chastisements which can befal guilty 
nations ; and up to this hour the visitation is ex- 
perienced. The land was as the garden of Eden 
before them ; and behind them a desolate wilder- 
ness: (Joel ii. 3.) Recent events might also inti- 
mate, that the language also is applicable: For 
all this my anger is not turned away, but my hand 
is stretched out still. 

In addition to all the calamities in which the 
Greeks have been recently involved, and to some 
of which allusion has been made, it is striking to 
contemplate the severity with which the blow has 
fallen upon the clergy. The highest dignitary of 
the Orient has been hanged at the door of his 
own church ; and his body has been dragged con- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



33 



temptuously through the streets of Constantinople, 
by the Jews, mortal foes of every form of Chris- 
tianity. A corresponding punishment has been in- 
flicted on a vast multitude of inferior prelates and 
priests. The number who have been executed is 
immense. I regret exceedingly that I did not draw 
up a catalogue of the massacred prelates, which I 
could have formed from oral testimony. Recollec- 
tion of repeated narratives of the kind convinces 
me it would have been awfully extensive. Add to 
these woes, the utter ruin inflicted on the ancient 
and numerous monasteries of Mount Athos, the 
Holy Mountain of the Greeks ; the countless num- 
ber of ecclesiastics of all ranks, who have been com- 
peted to flee to other lands for refuge, and to depend 
on charity for support ; and these facts, coinciding 
with the experience of the world at large and with 
the declarations of Scripture, teach us, forcibly, 
that sin will not go unpunished. 

We cannot avoid noticing the condition of the 
Turks, in the same view of the subject. They may 
perhaps be compared to the Assyrians, once com- 
missioned to execute similar purposes : Isaiah x. 
5 — 7. O Assyrian, the rod of mine anger, and the 
staff in their hand is mine indignation. I will send 

him against an hypocritical nation Howheit 

he meaneth not so, neither doth his heart think so ; 
but it is in his heart to destroy and cut off nations 
not a few. 24, 25. Therefore thus saith the Lord 

C 5 



34 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



God of Hosts, O my people that dwellest in Zion, 
be not afraid of the Assyrians .... For yet a very 
little while, and the indignation shall cease, and 
mine anger in their destruction. 

What a remarkable difference between the Turks 
of the days of Muhammed II. or Suleyman the 
Magnificent, and of the present reign of Mahmoud ! 
Once, they were the very terror of Europe : they laid 
siege to the capital of Germany: they caused the 
most distant Christian monarchs to tremble in their 
capitals. But, now, how hath the oppressor ceased! 
.... He who smote the people in wrath with a con- 
tinual stroke, he that ruled the nations in anger, 
is persecuted, and none hindereth. . . . How art thou 
fallen from heaven, O Lucifer, son of the morning ! 
. ... Is this the man that made the earth to tremble, 
that did shake kingdoms ; that made the world as a 
wilderness, and destroyed the cities thereof? 

It has been truly remarked, that Constantinople, 
now, is almost what Constantinople was formerly, 
under the declining fortunes of the Greek Em- 
perors. As those obscure shades of Roman power 
and grandeur were quivering with constant appre- 
hension, from the overwhelming fury of the Turkish 
assailants, who were perpetually advancing upon 
them ; so now the faded representatives of the Mu- 
hammeds and Bajazets stand aghast at the colossal 
power of the Russian Empire, which ever threatens 
to crush them. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



35 



Their very internal revolutions are a striking 
example of retributive justice accomplishing its 
object. The reiterated ruin inflicted by Pashas and 
other Governors, contending among themselves and 
with their Sovereign ; a large portion of their terri- 
tory now wrested from their hands, and its popu- 
lation either exiled or destroyed ; the Janissaries, 
who had been chiefly instrumental in the massacre 
of so many Christians, now receiving the sword 
of vengeance in their own breasts — these and innu- 
merable other facts, add their testimony to the truth 
of the declaration, The kingdom which will not serve 
me shall perish. 

Nor is it the capricious energies of the present 
Sultan which will save from total eclipse the waning 
crescent. It is nothing but the convulsive struggle 
of death, which has given being to late efforts. A 
nation so intimately and fully pervaded by barbarism 
can never arise to that strength of civilization which 
Christianity alone imparts. 



CHAPTER III. 



RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS'. 

Primitive and Modern Christianity of the East contrasted— Inadequate 
views of human danger — Greek Preachers — Justification — Regeneration 
— Worship of the Virgin— Prayers addressed to her— Titles given her— 
Practical confidence in her assistance, evidenced during an action with 
Pirates— Worship of Saints— St. Spiridion and other Patron Saints of the 
Ionian Islands — Singular circumstance connected with the Worship of 
the Archangel Michael at Colossae— Facility with which new Saints are 
worshipped— Two Spezziotes martyred at Scio, and sainted— Modem 
Greek Martyrdoms. 

The religious condition of Turkey presents a view 
of distress which, to a Christian mind, will be more 
painfully affecting" than the very calamities which 
have just been described. The Christians of these 
lands were once orthodox, without any question 
of the propriety of that term ; their churches were 
formed by the Apostles themselves ; and their doc- 
trine and discipline emanated from Divine inspira- 
tion. They were addressed in terms of this import: 
Ye are a chosen generation, a royal priesthood, a holy 
nation, a peculiar people, that ye should shew forth 
the praises of Him, who hath called you out of dark- 
ness, into His marvellous light. Amidst revolting 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 37 

scenes of idol- worship and unrestrained licentious- 
ness, they constituted, to use the simile of Scripture, 
a spiritual temple, formed of living stones, conse- 
crated to the service of the True God : Ye are built 
upon the foundation of the Apostles and Prophets, 
Jesus Christ Himself being the chief corner-stone. 

With what sacred awe, with what feelings of so- 
lemn reverence, do we contemplate the spectacle 
of whole communities described by the Inspired 
Historian in such language as this : And the mul- 
titude of them that believed were of one heart and 
one soul I — and, Then had the Churches rest through* 
out all Judea and Galilee and Samaria, and were 
edified; and walking in the fear of the Lord, and 
in the comfort of the Holy Ghost, were multiplied, 
(Acts iv. 32, and ix. 31.) 

But for age after age Christianity has worn a 
very different aspect. Doctrine has become cor- 
rupt, discipline has disappeared ; morality is no 
more. Apostacy is stamped upon the Christian 
Churches. Where idol-temples once fell, and where 
they still attest, by their ruins, the resistless force 
of primitive Christianity, the visible temple of God 
has fallen ; and great has been the fall of it ! So 
total has been the demolition, that the very language 
of Our Saviour, descriptive of the ruin of another 
Temple, has become too applicable to this edifice ; 
— not one stone left upon another, that is not 
thrown down. 



38 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



It is my intention to give a brief sketch of the 
doctrinal opinions which are prevalent amongst the 
Greeks : and, in doing so, it is by no means my plan 
to enter into deep research, or to cite numerous 
authorities. I shall principally confine myself to 
what I have personally observed, and to the results 
of my intercourse with individuals. 

Inadequate views of human danger. — 
The Sacred Writings represent the condition of man, 
as one not merely exposed to the danger of ruin, 
but as actually undone. They inform us, not that 
man will perish unless he do, or abstain from doing, 
certain supposed actions, but that his eternal ruin 
is certain, unless he experience a deliverance from 
the condition in which his nature has placed him. 

I never recollect to have met with a Greek who 
appeared to have a correct view of this subject. 
The ideas which prevail are a counterpart to what 
is common among the more thoughtless of our own 
countrymen. Man, they imagine, is a sinner. As 
a sinner, he is certainly exposed to a considerable 
degree of danger. But if his life be, on the whole, 
free from vicious actions, and if he practise moral 
virtues — if he believe in the doctrines of his church, 
and observe the ordinances of his religion — he has 
good reason to expect salvation. Such are the 
indefinite views of religion which, in too many 
Protestant, as well as Greek and Roman- Catholic 



AND THE LEVANT. 



39 



countries, seem to take possession of human minds, 
rather than to be the acquisition gained by the mind 
after previous and careful examination. The con- 
sequence is such as might be expected. The 
immortal spirit resigns itself to a fatal and awful 
security. The inquiry is not heard, What must I 
do to be saved ? Danger is not apprehended ; and 
salvation is not sought. 

That individuals in the Greek church have been 
deeply solicitous for eternal safety, is undoubted ; 
but that they have been truly enlightened to right 
views of the actual ruin to which the fall of Adam 
has reduced our nature, may be questioned. The 
Greek preachers can dwell with great force and 
pathos on the awful considerations connected with 
an eternal existence. They summon their hearers 
to the bar of Final Judgment. They array the 
Last Day with solemnities and terrors, sufficient, 
we might suppose, to produce the most indelible 
impressions. The shortness of human life, the utter 
insignificance of all terrestrial objects — on all these 
themes they dilate and express themselves with 
much feeiing. Vanity of vanities ! all is vanity ! 
is an expression universally known among them. 
But no where have I heard either ministers or laity 
bringing forward evidence to shew distinctly that, 
unless at some period of human life, an escape be 
effected, pardon be imparted, and salvation acquired, 
there is no hope of heaven. 



40 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Incorrect ideas of justification* — Justi- 
fication is represented, in the Sacred Writings, as 
that state of perfect reconciliation with God, which 
secures us pardon of sin, and the enjoyment of 
Heaven ; and it is referred to the merits of Christ, 
as the cause which procures it; whilst faith is the 
medium by which it is communicated. I never 
found a single Greek who appeared to have a cor- 
rect view of this article of a standing or 
falling church, as Luther designates it. The 
idea which seems prevalent, is this — that faith and 
works conjointly obtain justification. The merits 
of Christ are not denied ; professedly, much regard 
is paid to them ; but, as far as I can judge, men 
found their hopes of Heaven on the circumstance 
of their having faith and works, to recommend them 
to divine favour. 

The great doctrine of primitive times was Christ 
crucified; and amongst all enlightened Christians 
this is a subject contemplated with peculiar atten- 
tion, and guarded with vigilant jealousy. A Chris- 
tian, formed upon the instructions of the Sacred 
Scriptures, cannot bear the thought of any approxi- 
mation to merit on the part of man ; nor can he 
endure expressions which appear to take from 
Christ any part of the glory or agency of human 
salvation. Speak of the Cross of Christ to many 
of the Greeks, and it is not improbable they will 
understand an allusion to the supposed wood of the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



41 



true cross; — and they may inform you of some 
portion of it in their own possession. I remember 
hearing a priest of Ithaca strongly maintaining that, 
in the expression, God forbid that I should glory, 
save in the Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ, the 
Apostle only referred to the wood of the cross. Or, 
in discoursing on this subject, the Greek might 
expatiate on the importance attached to the sign 
of the cross ; and might enter into argument to 
prove that the Orientals alone knew how to form 
that sign, whilst the Roman Catholics were in error 
on this point. A pilgrimage to Jerusalem, to light 
a taper at the holy fire supposed to descend from 
Heaven on the tomb of our Saviour upon Easter- 
day would, in the estimation of many, be glorying 
in the Cross of Christ. 

Amidst such darkness, it will not appear sur- 
prising, when I assert, that I never met with a 
Christian in the East who appeared experimentally 
to understand the Apostle's language — Being justi- 
fied by faith, we have peace with God, through our 
Lord Jesus Christ. We observe it habitually in 
our own country, that w r hen men have indistinct 
views of the merits of our Redeemer, they deem 
it presumption to express a confidence like that 
of primitive times : We know, that if our earthly 
house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a 
building of God, an house not made with hands y 
eternal in the heavens: (2 Cor. v. 1.) That 



42 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



unspeakable peace, connected with a sure and cer- 
tain hope of eternal bliss, which is enjoyed most 
happily by so many in our own land, is, I fear, and 
has been for ages, wholly inexperienced in Turkey ; 
even though, there, superior earthly distresses might 
seem to demand superior consolations. 

Ignorance of the nature of regenera- 
tion. — One of the most important and practical 
doctrines of Christianity is that which is usually 
designated, Regeneration, or the New Birth. On 
this subject I have not failed to speak continually 
with the Eastern Christians. I have endeavoured 
to explain it fully to their understandings, and to 
impress it upon their hearts, that without a second 
birth they cannot obtain a second life ; that without 
a change of disposition and character, so total as to 
warrant the scriptural term of a new creation, their 
faith is not attended by its essential effects. In 
connexion with this subject, I naturally shewed 
them, that a Christian is one who makes the acqui- 
sition of eternal happiness his primary object in life ; 
and who has obtained tastes and enjoyments so new, 
in comparison of those which he once possessed, 
that his religion has become the very charm of his 
existence, and the subject which is blended with all 
its pursuits and avocations ; that in a true follower 
of Christ, sin is not avoided, and holiness pursued, 
as a matter of unpleasant necessity, but, (though 



AND THE LEVANT. 



43 



sin will still tempt and harass,) with that ardent 
alacrity and pleasure which distinguish a fixed 
habit. 

These representations I found wholly new to my 
hearers. The word Regeneration, when first men- 
tioned, excited in their minds the thought of Bap- 
tism ; and, as has been too often the case, in the 
sign they lost sight of the thing signified. 

Where the effect of the Holy Spirit's operation 
is unknown, it is natural that no idea should exist 
of the need of that important gift. The Greeks 
are indeed most tenacious of the peculiar doctrine 
of their church, in regard to the Procession of the 
Holy Ghost ; but I have found none amongst them 
looking earnestly to God for the aid of His Spirit. 

Having given this slight sketch of the melan- 
choly absence of right views in the Levant, on the 
more essential doctrines of religion, I propose to 
review briefly some of the errors, which are most 
prevalent ; — many in common with the Church of 
Rome : and on these let us first offer some re- 
marks. 

The most palpable corruption of Christianity, 
which engages the notice of one conversant with 
Oriental Christians, is the excessive adoration which 
is paid to the Virgin Mother of our Lord. On visit- 
ing Greek churches, I have often opened the Books 
of Prayers which have fallen in my way; and I 



44 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



have almost invariably noticed, that ascriptions of 
praise, and language of prayer, of the most repul- 
sive character, meet the eye. The following are 
examples : amidst all the sorrows of life, 

TO WHOM CAN I FLEE FOR REFUGE, BUT TO 

thee, o holy virgin ? They pray, that they 

MAY LOVE HER WITH ALL THEIR HEART AND 
SOUL AND MIND AND STRENGTH — that THEY 
MAY NEVER SWERVE FROM HER COMMAND- 
MENTS. One of the first prayers, which a Greek 
child is taught to utter, is as follows : ON THEE I 
REPOSE ALL MY HOPE, MOTHER OF GOD : SAVE 
ME ! In the Greek Burial-service there is this 
expression : to earth are we reduced, 

HAVING TRANSGRESSED THE DIVINE COMMAND 
OF GOD; BUT BY THEE, O HOLY VIRGIN! ARE 
WE RAISED FROM EARTH TO HEAVEN, HAVING 
THROWN OFF THE CORRUPTION OF DEATH. 

The titles with which the Virgin is addressed are 
expressive of the most immaculate nature — a^lawac, 
— afAoXwToq — afAai/jLoq — vvepayta, &c. A frequent chaunt 
in Greek churches, which has a kind of rhythm as 
they pronounce it, describes the Virgin as iv^orepa, 

ray Xepov^iu, kou aavjKptrai; rifjuurepot ruv ~2,epatp€)p — 

" more glorious than the Cherubim, and beyond 
comparison more honourable than the Seraphim." 

Nor is this confidence in the Virgin Mary merely 
theoretical. Instances frequently occur, which 
evince clearly how fully and earnestly, in the hour 



AND THE LEVANT. 



45 



of danger and distress, recourse is had to the 
Virgin, rather than to God. I shall only notice one 
instance of the kind, which fell under my own 
observation. In the month of September 1827, I 
sailed from Smyrna, in a Greek schooner under 
Russian colours. After leaving the Gulf, we were 
endeavouring to enter the Channel of Scio, with 
the wind contrary. The night was fine, and the 
breeze not sufficiently strong to occasion much 
agitation. A solemn stillness prevailed on board 
our little vessel, which was only interrupted by the 
occasional shifting of the sails, or, perhaps, by the 
song of the helmsman. Suddenly we were startled 
from our repose, by the cry, " Pirates, pirates." 
The scene of confusion, which ensued, it would be 
impossible rightly to describe. " Where are the 
muskets ? where the ammunition ? where the cut- 
lasses?" These and similar expressions were 
mingled with vociferations of menace and blas- 
phemy, and speedily with the roar of a piece of 
artillery which was placed on our deck, and with the 
report of small-arms. It was one of those moments, 
when the Christian is sensible how inexpressible 
the privilege of having in God a Father, a Friend, 
and a Guardian, to whom he can resort with con- 
fidence. The superior force of the pirates, who 
advanced against us in three large boats, each per- 
haps containing sixty men, rendered it exceedingly 
improbable that we should escape them ; and the 



46 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



exasperation to which it was natural they would 
be provoked, by the resistance of our crew, made 
it likely that our lives would be sacrificed. Here, 
then, was danger, which to a female, in particular, 
would appear of the most alarming character. Any 
prayer she pronounced under such circumstances 
would certainly not be the language of hypocrisy 
or formality, but the expression of earnest sincerity. 
Such prayers I observed offered up, amidst all 
the confusion and alarm of this moment. A Greek 
woman, in the cabin, was engaged in the most 
earnest supplications. And what was the purport 
of her requests ? No allusion whatever to the 
Divine Being was made. No single hint, expressive 
of confidence in the mediation of Christ, was thrown 
out. Every petition, with one single exception, was 
presented to the Virgin Mary ; and that exception 
was in favour of St. Nicholas ! 1 

The worship paid by the Greeks to saints is also 
extravagant ; and the number of those who receive 
these honours is exceedingly large. The festival 
days, on which their memory is celebrated, have 
become so numerous, that it proves a serious im- 
pediment to industry and prosperity: and the evil 
had grown to such a height, that, prior to my leaving 
Greece, a report was in circulation, intimating that 

1 The pirates appear to have been terrified by the determined resist- 
ance of our crew : for on putting our vessel before the wind, we heard 
no more of them. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



47 



it was the intention of Government to reduce very 
considerably the number of holidays. In some parts, 
St. Demetrius, St. Nicholas, and St. George, 
claim a superiority of attention ; in Corfu, St. 
Spiridion is the patron-saint; in Cefalonia, St. Ger- 
asimo; in Zante, St. Dionysius. A well-informed 
physician in the vicinity of Constantinople com- 
plained to me, that when he was called in to visit 
a patient, he usually found that, for the purpose 
of obtaining recovery, vows had been paid to 
St. Nicholas, or some other saint. If a cure was 
effected, the whole credit of the return to health 
was awarded to the saint, and his vows were in- 
fallibly fulfilled ; but to the physician no thanks 
were given, and often his bill remained unpaid. 

The veneration given to the respective saints 
of Corfu, Cefalonia, and Zante knows no bounds. 
Each of these islands possesses the supposed body 
of its patron ; and innumerable miracles performed 
by them are in constant circulation. The Corfiotes 
imagine, that not unfrequently St. Spiridion rises 
from his tomb, and proceeds on visits to various 
parts: and, during the siege of Missolonghi, the 
report gained currency, that he was gone in person 
to assist the Greeks in the defence of that impor- 
tant post. It is not only undoubted, that the in- 
habitants of these islands are apprehensive, in the 
language of profaneness, to swear by St. Spiridion, 
St. Gerasimo, and St. Dionysius ; but I have 



48 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



heard of an unquestionable occurrence of the fol- 
lowing description, and I believe the circumstance 
by no means rare. Two men, who had deposed 
before a tribunal to certain facts of which they pro- 
fessed themselves witnesses, by kissing the cross, 
after being called upon to depose to the same facts 
in the church and in the name of the saint, actually 
refused to do so ; leaving no doubt, on the minds 
of all present, that they had perjured themselves in 
the name of Christ, whilst they could not venture to 
attest a falsehood in the name of the saint. 

The Archangel Michael, styled by the Greeks 
Taxiarches, is also an object of adoration. I have 
heard of some singular ideas arising from his 
worship at Colossae, which bring into curious con- 
nexion, the ancient Historian Herodotus, the inspired 
Apostle St. Paul, the primitive Father Theodoret, 
and the Modern Greek Synaxaria or Legends. 
Herodotus informs us, that, at Colossae, the river 
Lycus falls into a cavity of the earth ; and, after 
proceeding under ground for a certain distance, 
re-appears, and pursues its course. St. Paul, in 
his Epistle to the Colossians (ii. 18), offers warning 
in these terms : Let no man beguile you of your 
reward, in a voluntary humility and worshipping 
of angels. Theodoret, in his comment on this pas- 
sage, not only refers the worship of angels to the 
idea which had become prevalent, that the Deity 
was inaccessible, and that it was proper to approach 



AND THE LEVANT. 



49 



Him by some inferior mediators, but he asserts, 
that, up to his own times, a church of the Arch- 
angel Michael existed in Phrygia. The Modern 
Greeks have a legend to this effect. An over- 
whelming inundation threatened to destroy the 
Ciiristian population of that city. They were fleeing 
before it in the utmost consternation, and imploring 
superior succour for their deliverance. At this 
critical moment, the Archangel Michael descended 
from Heaven, opened the chasm in the earth to 
which they still point, and at this opening the 
waters of the inundation were swallowed up and 
the multitude was saved. The great haste under 
which I was compelled to visit Colossae prevented 
my actual observation of the cavity which receives 
the river Lycus ; but I have heard, from Greeks, 
of a monastery dedicated to the Taxiarches, which 
was built, in commemoration of the event, at the 
entrance of the Lycus into the earth ; and its re- 
mains are said to be still visible. Whilst it is pain- 
ful to notice superstition attributing to miraculous 
agency a natural phenomenon which existed in the 
days of Herodotus, it is somewhat interesting to 
observe the important admonition of the Apostle, 
receiving a degree of illustration in the absurd legend 
just noticed. 

The facility with which the Greeks admit new 
saints into their Calendar is almost worse than the 
correspondent practice of the Church of Rome. 

D 



50 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



It does not appear necessary to obtain Patriarchal 
sanction for this purpose ; but wherever an indivi- 
dual is considered to have died a martyr, they have 
no hesitation in exalting him to the rank of saint- 
ship. That there is no great difficulty, in modern 
times, in arriving at this intermediate order of beings, 
in which the Churches of Greece and Rome believe, 
may be inferred from the fact, that a common form 
of entreaty with Greek beggars is to the effect, 
Na dyido-7) 6 narefiat; gov, " May your father become a 
saint;" or even, N« dyiaa^, " May you become a 
saint yourself/' The Greek who attended Mr. 
Gridley, the American Missionary, to Caesarea, 
and who was with him in his dying moments, in- 
formed me, that such was the veneration of the 
Greeks of that vicinity for the memory of the de- 
ceased, that one day, whilst visiting his grave, a 
person present observed, M^Vw? dyiaa-e; " Has he 
not perhaps become a saint ? " A person of whose 
veracity I have no doubt, informed me, that he saw 
a Greek at Tzesme, named Gabriel Sandalges, 
hanged by the Turks. His countrymen, from a 
cause which I cannot recal, believed that he died a 
martyr. In consequence, an artist was employed 
to sketch his features, whilst he was still hanging ; 
and the portrait was forthwith suspended in the 
church, and worship paid him under the name 
of Stratolates. 

A Spezziote, who had commanded a brig of war 



AND THE LEVANT. 



51 



during the Revolution, gave me the following fact, 
which I adduce in illustration of the same super- 
stition. Two young Spezziotes, who had been the 
juvenile companions of my informant from the days 
of childhood, had the misfortune to be shipwrecked 
on the Island of Scio. Haying fled for refuge to 
a Greek of the Island, he had the baseness to betray 
them. On being brought before the Turkish Pasha, 
he offered them the alternative of embracing the 
Mussulman religion, or of death. The young men 
manifested that fortitude in the cause of their faith 
which has been so often witnessed in the Turkish 
Empire. They professed their readiness to submit 
to the worst extremities, rather than abjure their 
religion. The menace of the Pasha was executed, 
and they died the death of martyrdom. 

After an execution of this nature, it is usual for 
the Greeks to watch the corpse of the deceased 
during the night succeeding the execution ; and 
from certain luminous appearances which they pro- 
fess to observe over the dead body, they infer that 
the martyr is elevated to the degree of Saint. 
The Bishop of Scio addressed a letter to the com- 
munity of the Spezziotes, informing them, not only 
of the martyrdom of their two countrymen, but also 
of the actual observation of the luminous appear- 
ance, which is the indication of Saintship. On the 
strength of this occurrence, he exhorted them to 
place the pictures of the two young men in their 

D 2 



52 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



church, and to address to them a course of worship 
(aKoKovOta.) The admonition of the Bishop was duly 
attended to; and, as my informant asserted, their 
pictures are now receiving this worship ; though his 
own recollection of these young men led him to 
suppose that it was altogether misdirected. 

I believe, that it has been invariably the custom 
of the Greeks to regard as saints all those who have 
died martyrs. The common species of martyrdom 
which has been witnessed in Turkey is that of those 
who had become Mahomedans at some previous pe- 
riod of their life. The feelings of remorse, which 
were subsequently awakened within them, led them 
to resort in general to Mount Athos, in order to 
obtain from the monks, who were there resident, 
advice and absolution. The opinion was uniformly 
impressed upon the minds of such persons, that it 
was necessary for them to expiate by their own blood 
the awful guilt of apostacy which they had incurred. 
Under the influence of these instructions, a course 
of preparation, enjoined by their cbnfessors, was 
undergone ; and, when that was ended, they repaired 
to some Turkish tribunal, and there openly avowed 
their abandonment and detestation of the faith 
of Mahomet. In conformity with Turkish law, 
they were instantly executed. 

The Greek Synaxaria contain copious narratives 
of this nature; and frequently subjoin the form 
of prayer with which the martyr-saint is to be wor- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



53 



shipped. It is also a common opinion, that such 
saints exert considerable influence. Whilst walking 
over the ruins of Tripoli tza, in the year 1828, I 
happened to inquire of my attendants, whether the 
plague was of frequent occurrence in that place. 
The answer implied, that the plague had never 
visited the town since the martyrdom of a certain 
individual of the class just described. 



d s 



CHAPTER IV. 



RELIGION OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 

Picture- Worship— Description of the Pictures in Churches — Modes of Wor- 
shipping them — Pictures in Houses — Emolument and imposition of 
Painters in the Sale of Pictures, illustrated by an anecdote — Arguments 
against the Worship of Saints and Pictures from the Septuagint — from 
Epiphanius— from Chrysostom— Greek ideas of Fasting — Fasts observed 
by Pirates— The Four Lents — Articles of food prohibited. 

The unhappy triumph, which was gained in the 
eighth century by the advocates of picture- worship, 
still exhibits its baneful effects amongst the Greeks. 
On entering a Greek church, the first object which 
attracts notice is the immense multitude of pictures, 
attached to all parts of the building. No statues, 
indeed, are ever seen. The absurd notion is enter- 
tained, that, whilst orthodoxy and devotion sanction 
picture- worship, idolatry stands connected with the 
worship of statues. The pictures which are most 
peculiarly the object of adoration, are those which 
are affixed to the eastern screen. The whole of this 
screen, up to the very roof, is crowded with them. 
I have most frequently observed the virgin in the 
middle compartment of the lowest tier ; and this 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 



55 



appears to be the post of highest honour. On each 
side are seen, Christ, St. Chrysostom, St. Basil, 
John the Baptist, and others. The Apostles usually 
occupy twelve stations in the row above. Some- 
times the central tablet contains what the Greeks 
call " The sacred handkerchief," being a represen- 
tation of our Saviour's face left imprinted upon the 
handkerchief which, according to the legend, our 
Lord sent to King Abgarus. Revolting pictures in 
representation of the Holy Trinity are by no means 
uncommon. 

These objects of religious regard are, invariably, 
most wretched performances, destitute of all taste 
and beauty. They are usually on wood ; and not 
unfrequently, by way of superior honour, are 
adorned with crowns of silver and gold and similar 
decorations. 

When a Greek enters a church, he instantly ad- 
vances to the principal pictures, crosses himself; 
bows very frequently before them, and kisses them. 

That kissing may not soil and deface the large 
pictures, there are often small ones attached to the 
larger, which are taken in the hand and pressed to 
the lips. During service, many bring wax-tapers, 
and burn them in front of a particular picture, in 
order to do it honour. These are only a few of the 
melancholy absurdities of picture worship, which 
are prevalent. 

It is not only in churches that practices of this 



56 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



superstitious character are exhibited. In every 
Greek house the family-pictures are to be seen, 
having" replaced, apparently, the household-gods 
of the ancients. Nor are the devotions of the 
family, or individuals, ever conducted, except in 
front of these emblems. Day and night, lamps are 
kept burning before them ! and it would argue a 
neglect of religion, to suffer them lightly to be 
extinguished. Even in Greek ships, whether large 
or small, an image of the patron-saint is never 
wanting. In some places, individuals are in pos- 
session of pictures which are reputed to have signal 
efficacy in the cure of distempers : hence they are 
as infallibly called in on occasion of sickness, as is 
the physician in other countries ; and they furnish 
their owner with no small means of emolument. 
From time to time, pictures are also discovered, 
according to report, in subterranean recesses ; and 
when brought to light, they are exhibited in some 
place adjacent, with lamps before them, and never 
fail to attract crowds of worshippers. 

It may easily be imagined, that, under these cir- 
cumstances, the profession of painter is often lucra- 
tive, and that artists do not fail to employ the most 
unjustifiable means to advance their interests. A 
friend of mine once spent a night at Magnesia, in 
his way from Smyrna to Constantinople. His host 
was a picture-seller. In the course of the evening, 
a countryman came to purchase a picture of St. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



57 



Nicholas. " What kind of a picture do you want ? " 
inquired the painter. " Is it a miracle-working St. 
Nicholas, or a plain St. Nicholas 1 " The country- 
man begged to see both. They were accordingly 
produced ; and, in answer to inquiries, the painter 
informed his customer, that the miracle-working 
picture had leaped the night preceding from the 
station which it occupied, had marched along the 
floor to a considerable distance, and had then 
resumed its original position. The price of this 
picture was, in consequence, nearly double that of the 
plain St. Nicholas. The purchaser seemed anxious 
to obtain what appeared so valuable a treasure ; but 
his poverty only permitted him to buy the plain St. 
Nicholas. 

I have never found any difficulty in convincing 
Greeks of the impropriety of worshipping saints and 
pictures, when I had previously adopted a concilia- 
tory line of conduct. Those who attempt to defend 
the practice, bring forward arguments similar to 
those of the Roman Catholics. It is not the highest 
kind of worship, \arpe7a, which they give to saints : 
this they reserve for God alone. To the saints they 
give vpoo-Kvvrio-H; ; and to the Virgin Mary, vncephvKstu. 
The Septuagint Version, which is in common use 
amongst them, completely silences them. The very 
word, npoo-Kvvv is employed, as well as Xctrpeva, in the 
xxth Chapter of Exodus, with the most absolute 
prohibition connected with it. I have often found 

D 5 



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the Chapter of Epiphanius against the Collyridians 
(adv. Heeres. lib. iii. 59 & 79) strike them with asto- 
nishment. Here one of their own Greek Saints 
and Fathers, no less than six times in a single 
chapter, declares it illegal to give even wpoo-Kvvvims to 
the Virgin Mary ; and stigmatizes the practice as 
idolatrous and diabolical. But no passage in the 
Fathers is calculated to produce so strong an im- 
pression on the Greeks as the Homily of St. Chry- 
sostom on Matth. xii. 46 — 49. Here the Divine 
Chrysostom, as he is uniformly styled, charges the 
Virgin with ambition and folly. He declares that it 
is possible for men, as well as women, to have much 
higher honour conferred upon them than was be- 
stowed on Mary ; that it is the performance of the 
will of God which constitutes the mother, more than 
the pangs of parturition ; and, in consequence, he 
exhorts his hearers to pursue with all diligence the 
path which will conduct them to this great object. 
On shewing this passage to a Greek of Smyrna, I 
was not surprised to hear him say : "I should have 
considered this language blasphemy, had not St. 
Chrysostom employed it." Many adduce the Legend 
of Abgarus, to which reference has just been made ; 
and others appeal very confidently to the pictures 
of the Virgin, which they consider to have been 
drawn by St. Luke. 1 Conversing once with a 
native of Ithaca, on the latter subject, he positively 

1 See the Chapter on Public Preaching, for an account of these pictures. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



59 



asserted, that the fact was mentioned by St, Luke 
himself, in his Gospel. Of course, I challenged 
him to produce the passage. He returned home, 
in order to search for it; and appeared much 
abashed, when I next met him, at having failed in 
his inquiry. 

In nothing, perhaps, are the Greeks so rigorous, 
as in their obedience to the prescribed Fasts of their 
Church. It is not only persons of life comparatively 
moral who are observant of these institutions, but 
even men of a character the very opposite. During 
the trial of some pirates at Malta, it appeared that 
the individuals, who were convicted, had, during a 
long course of piracy, observed most conscientiously 
the fasts of their Church. There was little doubt 
that they had even committed murder ; and yet 
they had been guilty of no infraction of the laws 
of fasting. Some of the Samiot free-booters, in the 
course of a plundering expedition to the neighbour- 
hood of Smyrna, entered a Greek house, and de- 
manded food. Animal food was presented to them. 
They shrunk from it with abhorrence: — "How 
could they be guilty of such a sin V ? I have made 
voyages with Greeks of the most vicious character. 
They were men who seemed to indulge, without 
restraint, in profaneness, falsehood, and licentious- 
ness ; and yet these very persons, when they 
observed me partaking of animal food on their fast- 
days, have turned from me as a person guilty of a 



60 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



sin to which they were happily strangers. I have 
been assured, on authority which I could not ques- 
tion, that infants not unfrequently perish, because 
their mothers refuse to take the nourishment which 
is requisite for a due supply of milk. 

The union which is observable between a rigid 
attention to certain ordinances of religion, and an 
open violation of its most important precepts, is 
easily explained. The human mind is seldom so 
entirely insensible to the superior interests of eter- 
nity, as to neglect every species of preparation for 
them. It looks for something, either active or pas- 
sive, either great or small, which may in some 
degree still the voice of conscience, and impart 
hope on approaching the grave. Amongst the 
Greeks, the injunctions of abstinence afford a most 
convenient resource of this description. Whatever 
crime may have been committed, the reflection, that 
strict obedience has been rendered to the self-deny- 
ing command of abstinence, presents a soporific to 
the conscience, otherwise ready to be startled by an 
alarm of guilt ; and, practically, dependence is 
placed on it, as on an atonement sufficient to expiate 
the offence. 

The same principle operates, perhaps, universally. 
It is discovered very frequently in our own land, 
though its effects are somewhat different. Conver- 
sing on such subjects as these, with a British naval 
officer—" What difference is there," he inquired, 



AND THE LEVANT. 



61 



" between these Greeks, and so many of our coun- 
trymen, who are most constant in their habitual 
attendance at their parish church, whilst you almost 
fail to discover any other attention to religion in 
their character?" The remark was founded in 
truth. How many, unhappily, are there, whose 
attendance on some of the external ordinances of 
religion, instead of becoming- a most valuable means 
of obtaining decided renovation of disposition and 
character, appears to have no other effect, than that 
of lulling them into a most fatal lethargy, and of 
enabling them to pronounce, with more destructive 
emphasis to their conscience, Peace! Peace! when 
there is no peace. 

The Greeks have no less than four Lents in each 
year ; one before Easter, another before Christmas, 
a third in honour of the Virgin Mary, and a fourth 
in honour of the Apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul, 
Add to these, two weekly fasts, and the other occa- 
sional fasts ; and the number of days, annually, on 
which fasting is enjoined, exceeds those on which 
permission to eat animal food is sanctioned. The 
weekly fast-days fall on Wednesday and Friday ; 
and it is one of the melancholy instances of contest 
for trifles, to which the Greeks have too easily de- 
scended, that they maintain with warmth the pro- 
priety of fasting on Wednesday, and not on Satur- 
day, as is the case in the church of Rome. 

In many of these exercises of abstinence, minute 



62 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 



attention is paid to special articles of food permitted 
or proscribed. Frequently, not only the flesh of 
land animals, but every kind of fish is forbidden. 
A species of polypus, oKravih, is at these times in 
great request ; and, in general, shellfish and blood- 
less creatures are allowed. Even cheese, eggs, 
milk, and oil, are amongst the unlawful articles 
of diet. In the course of Lent, some days inter- 
vene when a degree of indulgence is conceded, and 
cheese and oil are permitted: hence one of the 
Sundays in Lent is called Cheese- Sunday. I have 
even observed the Lesson for the day designated 
by this title. 

In the very frequent conversations on this subject 
which I have had in various parts of the Levant, I 
have found that the sign of apostacy, intimated 
(1 Tim. iv. 3.) by the command to abstain from 
meats, which God hath created to be received with 
thanksgiving, has not failed to produce considerable 
effect. The declaration, too, of the Pharisee, I 
fast twice in the week, strikes them with peculiar 
force ; for every Greek is at once brought to the 
recollection, that he has been relying on the very 
same observance, as a matter of first-rate import- 
ance. It will perhaps be thought singular, but I 
have found the remark universal, that it is to be 
attributed, as a principal cause, to the fasts of the 
church, that the lower orders have been prevented 
from embracing generally the Mussulman religion. 



CHAPTER V. 



RELIGION OP THE MODERN GREEKS. 

The Seven Mysteries or Sacraments— Baptism— Mode of Immersion— 
Classical names given to children — The Chrism — Transubstantiation 
recently introduced amongst the Greeks— Mode of celebrating the Lord's 
Supper — ■Azymists and Enzymists — Confession, and absolution — Abuses 
arising from these doctrines — Anecdote of a monk who confessed to 
the author — Excess of precaution against the marriage of relatives — The 
holy oil— Animosities of the Greeks and Latins— Procession of the Holy 
Ghost — View of Purgatory— Marriage of the clergy— Monasticism— Con - 
eluding remarks, 

The Greeks, as well as the Latins, number Seven 
Sacraments or Mysteries. Of these, they consider 
Baptism and the Lord's Supper of superior im- 
portance. 

In their estimation, it is of great moment that 
immersion be employed in Baptism ; nor do they 
hold any person baptized, who has not been three 
times immersed ; once in the name of the Father, 
once in the name of the Son, and a third time 
in the name of the Holy Ghost. But though, in 
argument, they insist so much on immersion, in 
practice it can scarcely be asserted that they use 
this form. The child to be baptized is placed 



64 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



naked in a baptistry ; which, with them, is a port- 
able vessel, not containing- water sufficient for the 
act of plunging. The priest, by means of his 
hands, pours the water over the entire body of the 
child, three times ; and this is their mode of im- 
mersing. They also consider it important that the 
form of words employed be this : " N. N. the 
servant of God is baptized;" and not, " I baptize 
thee, N.N." 

In conversing on this subject, as I have fre- 
quently been obliged to do, I have endeavoured 
to turn their attention to the grand doctrine of 
Regeneration, represented by Baptism ; and I have 
inculcated on them how fruitless must be the most 
orthodox form of this rite, when this grand essen- 
tial to Salvation is wanting. On the rite itself 
I have insisted, that whilst I believed their own 
mode of administering it perfectly legitimate, yet, 
as water was simply the sign, there could not be 
any importance in the quantity of that element 
which was employed ; and that we have good reason 
to believe that, in the primitive ages, Baptism was 
administered sometimes by immersion, and some- 
times by sprinkling or pouring. On reading the 
English Prayer-book, the Greeks never fail to 
remark, with peculiar pleasure, the directions for 
immersing the child, which are contained in the 
Rubric ; and in conformity with these instructions, 
as well as to avoid infringing needlessly on pre- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



65 



judice, I was most desirous of immersing- the three 
Jewish Converts whom I baptized at Constanti- 
nople. Nothing- but the extreme inconvenience 
of that practice, in their circumstances, prevented 
me from doing so. 

The names which are now given to Greek chil- 
dren are frequently derived from their classical 
ancestors. Epaminondas, Themistocles, Leonidas, 
and the like, are commonly heard amongst them, 
With females a greater difficulty occurs ; as, un- 
happily, the celebrated women of Ancient Greece 
can by no means be proposed as examples to 
Christians. Hence, I was delighted to hear the 
excellent Theophilus, late Professor of Haivali, 
condemning the conduct of those who were giving 
their children the names Sappho, Aspasia, &c, and 
proposing the adoption of such terms as Evanthia 
and Eudoxia, which were classical in their origin, 
even though no distinguished personages so deno- 
minated might have lived in the classical ages. 
His own sister had acted on this suggestion, and 
changed her name to Evanthia. 

In the Greek Church, the mystery of the chrism 
or holy ointment, which is considered analogous 
to Confirmation, is administered immediately after 
Baptism. But on this ceremony, as well as on 
the exorcism of the infant in Baptism, I have no 
peculiar observations to offer. 

There is good reason to believe that the doc- 



66 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

trine of Transubstantiation, which now is certainly 
held by multitudes of Greeks, and which is posi- 
tively maintained by the Eastern Confession (1672), 
was introduced into the Oriental Church at a very 
late period. I have met with nothing in the public 
formularies which is demonstrative of it. Terms, 
indeed, are employed which may be interpreted in 
that sense ; but, like many expressions in the 
Fathers, they are evidently strong hyperbolical lan- 
guage, easily growing out of such a subject, rather 
than the explanation of a particular doctrine. I 
have even found Greeks who, to this day, disclaim 
such a tenet. 

The principal and habitual service of the Greek 
Church, is chargeable with the striking defect of 
the Church of Rome. The priests partake of the 
sacred elements, whilst the laity assist no more 
than by their presence. It is only on four occa- 
sions in the year that the laity participate. The 
Greeks have not, however, fallen into the abuse 
of despoiling all except the priesthood of the wine, 
which is the appointed memorial of the blood of 
our Lord. All persons partake of this emblem ; 
but they differ from us in the circumstances of not 
receiving the wine and bread separately, but min- 
gled together. 

How little the fury of the controversy between 
the Azymists and Enzymists has spent itself, or 
between the Latins who maintain the propriety 



AND THE LEVANT. 



67 



of using unleavened, and the Greeks who contend 
for leavened bread, in the Lord's Supper, may 
be inferred from this circumstance, that one of the 
most frequent queries addressed to me by Greeks, 
in reference to the Church of England, was con- 
cerning our own practice in this respect. And 
when they were informed, that, like themselves, 
we used leavened bread, they never failed to 
manifest strong approbation. How degraded, how 
contentious, is human-nature ! Not satisfied with 
the essential differences of sentiment which may 
involve disastrous consequences through eternity, it 
discovers the most petty and harmless distinctions ; 
and for the sake of them, disturbs the peace of one 
world, and threatens to cut off from the enjoy- 
ments of another ! It is the same spirit in the 
East, which considers it important that warm water 
be mixed with the sacramental wine ; and that, 
otherwise, there is a defect in the Lord's Supper. 
I believe it arose from an insidious design, rather 
than from blind enthusiasm, that a priest of Ithaca 
once proposed to me to decide upon the truth or 
falsehood of our respective churches, by the follow- 
ing expedient. He himself would consecrate the 
bread of the Sacrament, according to the Greek 
Ritual ; and I was to do the same according to the 
forms of my own communion. The bread of both 
parties, after this profane experiment, was to be 
placed in custody; and it was to be seen in 



68 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



which of the separate morsels putrefaction would 
first discover itself. My antagonist asserted, that 
mine would soon be in this condition, whilst his 
own would remain ever incorrupt. Of course, 
I would not listen to so foolish and impious a 
proposal. 

For a Christian minister to have personal inter- 
course with his people, is doubtless of great im- 
portance. Truths, which are only proclaimed from 
the pulpit, are proclaimed with limited efficacy. 
When the minister finds opportunity, with all the 
endearments of friendship, and with the solemnity 
and pointed application which a private interview 
affords, of urging powerfully on the conscience the 
impressive considerations which it is his duty to 
unfold, there is great reason to hope that, by the 
Divine blessing, much greater effects will follow, 
than when public addresses only are delivered. 
I have been led to think, that, if we are prevented 
in the discharge of this duty by the frequency of 
our sermons, it were better to preach less often in 
public, in order that we may more effectually, in 
private, warn every man, and teach every man ; 
thus commending ourselves to every man's conscience 
in the sight of God. 

Whilst in the Protestant churches we are in 
danger of erring on this side, amongst the Roman 
Catholics and Greeks the mistake is of an opposite 
description. Here, individual intercourse with the 



AND THE LEVANT. 



69 



laity has assumed the names of Confession and Ab- 
solution ; and whatever means may be employed to 
explain and modify the terms and the institution, 
certain it is, that multitudes receive the absolution 
of the priest, in the light of a plenary pardon 
of sins. I have read Greek forms of absolution 
which appear to delegate to the UvevpapiKoq, or Con- 
fessor, the full power of imparting such forgive- 
ness ; but, in conversation with Greeks, I have in- 
variably heard it asserted, that the absolution is 
imparted in the form of a prayer for the pardon 
of the individual. I am led to suppose that it is- 
optional with the Confessor to choose amongst va- 
rious forms ; and of these some are of a most 
useful tendency. Under these circumstances, it 
is clear that an enlightened priest might turn the 
institution to an exceedingly useful account. But 
of whatever beneficial modification the institution 
may admit, unquestionably it has become a cause 
of the most flagrant abuses. The following extract 
from the Sermon of Miniati on the Last Judgment^ 
is a specimen of its injurious application : — •. 

" For all the sins of men, God has established two 
tribunals ; one here on earth, in this life ; another 
in heaven, at His second coming-. There, the judge 
is a God wholly anger, without mercy : here, a 
priest, who is a man wholly mercy, without anger. 
There, the offender has no means of apology : here, 
he receives forgiveness. Whoever is judged here 



70 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



by the Confessor, and pardoned, is judged also 
there by God, and pardoned. Whoever may repent 
here, there is justified." Then, after quoting a 
passage from St. Chrysostom, which he misunder- 
stands, he resumes : — " I have often told thee, 
Christian, how easy a thing is the pardon of sin in 
confession. To-day, I have told thee how fearful 
a thing is the examination of sin at the coming 
judgment. I have set before thee, water and fire : 
choose which thou wilt." 

Nor is it only one abuse of which this practice is 
susceptible. On the part of those to whom con- 
fession is made, there is a constant temptation 
to employ it for avaricious purposes. The more 
frequently men confess, the larger the income of the 
priests. The higher the fee, the more advantageous 
for them. I have heard in the Island of Zante, 
what I hope to be untrue, that, sometimes, the 
individual who comes to obtain absolution will bar- 
gain for his price with the confessor, as he would 
bargain for an article on sale ; that the priest will 
charge as high as he possibly can ; that the 
customer will beat down the price ; and, that if 
one confessor be too dear, he will seek for another 
of more moderate demands. On this subject I 
assert nothing positively ; but I doubt not the in- 
jurious effect resulting from the common penance 
which is imposed, of engaging the confessor at a 
certain price to repeat so many liturgies or masses 



AND THE LEVANT. 



71 



in favour of the penitent. The money thus paid 
for liturgies, and the imposition of extraordinary 
fasts, are the usual penances. Another, which is 
occasionally enjoined, is the performance of a certain 
number of Repentances (perdvoiai). Who would 
have supposed that the word repentance could ever 
have assumed such a signification ? But a repent- 
ance amongst the Greeks implies an act of prostra- 
tion on the ground, with the forehead brought in 
contact with the earth ; and this act of mortification 
is deemed of signal efficacy. 

I once met with an earnest desire to confess 
sin which appeared highly interesting, and which 
afforded me an excellent opportunity of directing 
the applicant to Him who alone is exalted to be a 
Prince and a Saviour, to give repentance and 
remission of sins. A monk, with whom I had had 
much serious intercourse, expressed a strong wish 
to confess to me and to have my advice. After 
giving him fully to understand how incapable man 
was of imparting absolution, and that I consented 
to his request only for the purpose of being better 
qualified to adapt my counsel to his circumstances, 
I listened to his confessions. They proved to be 
of a character remarkably affecting. The crime 
was peculiarly heinous ; but there appeared to be 
the most genuine sense of its guilt, and the deepest 
concern for pardon. Hence I enjoyed a valuable 
opportunity of impressing on the delinquent the 



72 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

extreme danger of his situation, as long as he lived 
in the guilt and practice of such offences, and in a 
condition of mind which admitted of such vices ; 
and, on the other hand, the unquestionable power 
and willingness which resided in Christ, even to 
pardon this, and all other crimes. This was one 
instance, amongst many which might be adduced, 
of the beneficial application of which the intercourse 
between a pastor and his flock admits, to which we 
previously referred. 

One of the peculiarities of the Greeks is the care 
with which they prevent marriage between relatives. 
Not only is it wholly unlawful for first and second 
cousins to contract the marriage relationship, but 
there is even a prohibition against the union of 
persons who have become connected with each other 
in no other way than by being sponsors at the 
baptism of an infant. A young man of Ithaca 
informed me, that it was difficult to obtain a wife 
in his native island ; for the principal families had 
become connected with each other, to such an ex- 
tent, by marriages and baptisms, that it was almost 
necessary to resort to Cephalonia or elsewhere, in 
order to effect a marriage. 

A story was recently current, in the Archipelago, 
of two cousins who had formed a most sincere at- 
tachment for each other. By some means, probably 
by a considerable bribe, they had prevailed on a 
priest to solemnize matrimony between them. They 



AND THE LEVANT. 



73 



had lived happy and united for two or three years ; 
when, at length, the marriage was declared null and 
void by superior authority, and they were forcibly 
separated. 

The mystery of the Ev%4hmim, or Holy Oil, differs 
from the Roman- Catholic sacrament of Extreme 
Unction. The Greeks, in conformity with the pas- 
sage in the Epistle of St. James (ch. v. 14, 15), 
employ it with a view to the recovery of sick 
persons : they pray for the restoration to health 
of him for whose sake it is used ; and it is very 
common to hear of cures which are attributed to 
this means. 

Notwithstanding the similarity existing between 
the Eastern and Western Churches, a bitter ani- 
mosity inflames the respective members of these 
communions. Sentiments of this kind are not 
unfrequently expressed by Greeks ; — that a union 
with Protestants is both desirable and practicable ; 
but as to a reconciliation with the Church of Rome, 
it is utterly impossible. If a Roman Catholic con- 
form to the Greek Church, as is not unusual, for 
the sake of marriage, he is rebaptized : and it is 
asserted, that, in such a case, he is sometimes 
retained in the water for a very considerable space 
of time, in order that papal infection may be more 
completely effaced. But I have never heard of any 
thing similar in regard to Protestants. In the 
case of a Protestant at Zante, who entered the 

E 



74 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

Greek Church, the chrism was employed, but he 
was not rebaptized. These feelings of religious 
hostility have been greatly aggravated by the efforts 
of the Roman- Catholic Missionaries in the Levant ; 
and their converts, the Greek Catholics, are most 
virulent in their antipathy to their ancient religion. 
It deserves to be mentioned, as a proof that the 
Greeks are rising superior to such unhappy divi- 
sions, that they permitted Roman Catholics, without 
difficulty, to become members of their Senate. 

In addition to the distinctions between the two 
Churches, which have already been specified, we 
must briefly allude to two other points of difference. 
In regard to one of them, the Procession of the 
Holy Ghost, the Greeks are at issue, alike with 
Protestants and Roman Catholics. We still meet 
with many persons in the East who cling with 
pertinacity to the notion that the Holy Ghost pro- 
ceeds from the Father exclusively ; and who find 
blasphemy and profaneness, in adding to that 
statement, and the son. Pharmakides, at that 
time Professor of Theology in the University of 
Corfu,, had been treating on this subject very 
shortly before I visited that Institution. That he 
had discussed the question with some ability, may 
be inferred from the circumstance, that the late 
Lord Guilford, who had heard him, expressed to 
me his opinion, that the filioque (and the Son) 
had escaped the notice of the Reformers, from their 



AND THE LEVANT. 



75 



being under the necessity of giving* their attention 
to inquiries of moment so much superior: hence, he 
accounted for its existence in Protestant Creeds, 
I have found it best, in general, to observe silence 
on this subject. When it was necessary to speak, 
I have endeavoured to shew how much more im- 
portant it is to exercise forbearance and love, than 
to pursue the endless questions of words; whence 
arise envy, strife, railings, and evil surmisings, 
(1 Tim. vi. 4). With more enlightened persons, 
I have observed, that since they acknowledged that 
the Holy Spirit proceeds from the Father, and 
through the SON, it virtually came to the same 
point. " If the river Danube flow from Germany, 
through Hungary, I cannot see any impropriety 
in saying, that it flows to me, who am in Turkey, 
from Germany AND Hungary." The dispute on 
this topic has, in fact, turned, at the Council of 
Florence and elsewhere, on the difference or simi- 
larity of acceptation which could be assigned to the 
words, ik, from, and ha, THROUGH. 

The Greeks deny the doctrine of Purgatory. The 
instant it is mentioned, they cite the words, 'Ev t£ 
"A§7j qvk eVrt /xeravota, " In Hades there is no repent- 
ance." But, notwithstanding this rightful opposi- 
tion to a most pernicious error, the practice of 
praying for the dead can scarcely be more prevalent 
in the Church of Rome. The public Services of 
the Church are exceedingly objectionable in this 
E 2 



76 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



respect, and the custom descends to the very men- 
dicants who walk the streets. At certain intervals, 
often continued for many years, the priests are 
employed, and receive fees, to pray for deceased 
relatives ; and the most common argument em- 
ployed by beggars to touch the charitable feelings 
of those to whom they address themselves, is, " for 
the soul of your parents, of your deceased friends, 
of your mother,' 1 &c. &c. When I have conversed 
with Greeks on the inconsistency of this practice, I 
have scarcely ever heard them defend it. " Thus 
we found it," "Et^* to yvpopev, was the only reply. 

The Greeks are also superior to the adherents of 
the Romish Communion in regard to the marriage 
of the clergy. To contract marriage is indeed for- 
bidden after orders have been received ; and bishops, 
and the prelates of superior rank, are debarred from 
it ; but ordination may be conferred on married 
persons : hence a very large number of the clergy 
are married. As Monasticism had its origin in 
the East, and received high reputation from the 
encomiums bestowed upon it by many of the 
Fathers, and from their own example, it is not to 
be wondered at, that, by many of the superstitious 
class, it is still considered as a superior degree 
of sanctity, and that by some it is still styled " the 
angelic life." But, amongst well-informed persons, 
a strong feeling of hostility to monasticism is 
gaining ground. The corruptions of religion are 



AND THE LEVANT. 



77 



constantly charged on the monks, and a strong- 
wish prevails to put a stop to the whole system 
by Legislative enactments. — " We have resources 
sufficient for the education of all the Youth of 
Greece," was common language in iEgina. — " Ap- 
propriate the revenues of the monasteries to this 
purpose, and nothing else is requisite." If the 
feeling of dislike to monasticism continue to operate, 
there will indeed be little occasion for the inter 
ference of Government, for it will die a natural 
death : the monasteries will become vacant, and 
their funds will be at the disposal of the State. It 
is very rare to meet with convents of nuns in the 
Greek Communion. I only recollect noticing two 
during my whole residence in the Levant. 

The Greeks do not receive the Apocryphal 
Writings, as canonical ; and their acquaintance 
with them is very limited. 

The doctrine of Papal supremacy meets with 
the most determined opposition on the part of the 
Greeks ; and the antipathy to the Western Church 
in general is so deeply-rooted in Greek minds, that 
all idea of a union between the two communions 
must long since have vanished from the thoughts 
of considerate persons. 

The view, which we have now taken of Christi- 
anity in Turkey, is deeply affecting. We rejoice 
that the truths of Religion have not wholly dis- 
appeared. Twilight is better than total darkness ; 
E 3 



78 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



and the hopes which we encourage of a return to 
original simplicity in some degree relieve our pain. 
But, viewing the actual state in which the Levant 
has been placed for ages, the total absence of right 
views of Revealed Truth, and the positive preva- 
lence of most destructive errors, we are obliged to 
acknowledge — Here, as well as in Roman- Catholic 
countries, the predictious are manifestly fulfilled, 
which foretell an apostacy from true Christianity : 
(2 Thess. ii. and 1 Tim. iv. &c.) The union of truth 
and error is the particular characteristic of the 
Greek and Roman- Catholic religions. In apostate 
Christianity, we find an enemy of the Most High 
presenting himself to public view in the character 
of a friend. He sanctions error, by the declaration, 
Thus saitli Jehovah. He conceals perdition beneath 
the sound of Salvation. He leads to ruin, by the 
name of that very blood which alone can conduct 
to Heaven. He displays on high the crucifix, to 
delude men out of true faith in the Crucified ; and 
represents the mystery of iniquity as an essential 
part of the mystery of godliness. He declares 
aloud, that Christ Jesus is the Saviour of sinners, 
but leads men to false and destructive views of that 
very Saviour. He maintains decidedly much of the 
truth of God; and as decidedly proclaims many of 
the errors of Satan. Thus does he attempt to convert 
the very blessings of God into curses, and to draw 
an eternal poison from the well-springs of Salvation! 



AND THE LEVANT. 



79 



There is an infernal originality in apostate Christi- 
anity : it is the master effort of the Prince of Dark- 
ness. The Church of Christ becomes the synagogue 
of Satan. An attempt is made to combine light and 
darkness ; to bring Heaven and Hell into monstrous 
and impossible coalition ; to mingle the Hallelujahs 
of Paradise with the shrieks of the lost world ; to 
place God and Satan conjointly on the throne of 
the universe. 

When we take these views of apostacy, we are 
ready to exclaim, Can there be any thing so iniquit- 
ous, so appalling, in the systems of Hindooism or 
barbarian polytheism? What are even distinc- 
tions of caste, or idol-chariots, or Suttees, or canni- 
balism itself, in comparison of this ? Is not Satan 
more ruinous, when he appears as an angel of light, 
than when he discovers himself in his true character 
of a fiend of darkness ? 



CHAPTER VI. 



MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. 

Greek Character not inferior to Turkish— Violation of the Third Com- 
mandment — Anecdote of a Greek Priest, who swore with delight on 
procuring the New Testament— The Fourth Commandment— The Sixth- 
Dissensions during the Revolution— Rival Chieftains of the Morea— 
Vengeance inflicted on Turks— The Turk burnt alive by a Greek Woman 
— Union of Cruelty and Superstition at Spezzie — Instance of Generosity 
to Turkish Prisoners — The Seventh Commandment— Divorces— Kindness 
of Brothers to their Sisters — Freedom from Drunkenness — Rapine and 
Piracy — Greek Klephts— Robbery of an Ecclesiastic of Rank — Murder 
of a Bishop by the Maniotes — Suppression of Piracy on the arrival 
of Capo d'Istria. 

It is extremely common to depress the character of 
Greeks below the very level of Turkish degradation. 
Truth obliges me to confess, that the Greeks are 
demoralized to a melancholy extent ; but certainly, 
as far as my own observation has gone, they are 
not inferior to Turks. There are crimes of a very 
base character, of which the traveller is compelled 
to hear amongst Turks ; but he rarely hears of any 
thing similar amongst Greeks. And if, in other 
respects, the Greek can claim no superiority to his 
Turkish master, at least he can render some reason 
for his degradation. He may ask, with justice, 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 81 

** If the master be vicious, how can the slave be 
virtuous ? If the preceptor incite to crime, how 
can the pupil learn morals 1 " What, in truth, can 
be expected from a nation subjected, for ages, to 
the most oppressive yoke under which the human 
race ever groaned? The Greeks often tell you, 
" that it is impossible for a man to live in Turkey 
who is open and upright in his dealings : nothing 
will save from ruin, but duplicity and conceal- 
ment." Without attempting to justify the assertion, 
it may be adduced as declaratory of the temptation 
to obliquity, in which their unhappy circumstances 
have placed them. If, therefore, my duty oblige 
me to bring forward statements highly unfavourable 
to Greek character, it is not because I think human 
nature more intensely vitiated in Greeks than in 
other men. I doubt not that Englishmen, had 
they been subjected to Turkish thraldom for a 
similar period of time, would have exhibited as 
melancholy an example of the awful corruption 
of the human heart. A Greek is a man,' and, 
if he has become a deeply corrupted being, it is 
only one proof, amongst ten thousand, how truly 
the carnal mind is enmity against God ; for it is 
not subject to the law of God, neither indeed can be. 
In this painful sense, the Greek may say, Homo 
sum ; nihil humani a me alienum puto. 

It might almost seem as if a total ignorance 
existed in Turkey of the force and meaning of the 
E 5 



82 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Third Commandment. Appeals to the name of 
God are introduced on the most trivial occasions ; 
and even, not unfrequently, by the clerical order. 
How little sense of the impropriety of this custom 
exists amongst the Greeks may be inferred by a 
fact, of which I was assured by an English Mis- 
sionary. A Greek Priest came to purchase a copy 
of the New Testament. When he had obtained it, 
he appeared delighted with his prize. He pressed 
it to his lips ; and swore most solemnly, by the 
Deity, how great was his satisfaction. Oaths, by 
the Virgin, by " the Honoured Cross," and by a 
large variety of saints, are also common. The 
curses and abusive epithets in use are profane 
beyond description. There is one expression, which 
may be heard almost daily in some parts, so replete 
with horror, that I never could have conceived a 
demon in Hell would have uttered so blasphemous 
and awful a sentiment. 

As little idea exists of the obligation of the 
Fourth Commandment. No Greek, I imagine, 
would ever hesitate to transact any worldly busi- 
ness on the Lord's Hay, if circumstances appeared 
to require it. Commerce is certainly, to a consi- 
derable extent, suspended ; but more for the pur- 
pose of amusement, apparently, than for any religious 
purpose. When the public service of the church 
is concluded, the day is devoted to visiting, and to 
any employment which appears attractive. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



83 



In the regular course of affairs, the violation 
of the Sixth Commandment, amongst private indi- 
viduals, is not so frequently heard of as in England. 
With whatever facility, and celerity, Sultans and 
Pashas may destroy their victims, the private per- 
son, whether Greek or Turk, seldom takes the life 
of his fellow-creature. But such has been the per- 
petual state of anarchy and revolution recurring 
in Turkey, that it has afforded scope for the deve- 
lopement of the sanguinary and merciless character 
of human nature, more fully, perhaps, than any 
other country. In addition to horrors of this na- 
ture, on which I have touched in other places, I 
shall now bring forward facts peculiarly relating to 
the Greeks. It is when laws are suspended for a 
number of years, that we may judge of the true 
propensities of man ; and it is thus, that of late 
years, Greece has given a melancholy example how 
destructive are those propensities. At the com- 
mencement of the Revolution, a common feeling 
of indignation against their oppressors united Greeks 
of all places and parties. But, soon after the first 
successes were gained, the distribution of the spoil, 
and other causes, led to the most bitter jealousies 
and dissensions. The Roumeliotes and Moreotes 
were full of animosity against each other. The 
Hydriotes, Ipsariotes, and others, formed additional 
parties. These feelings burst forth into civil war- 
fare and secret assassination. In one of the houses 



Si RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

whore I resided for an entire month, I discovered 
that I was living beneath the same roof with a man 
who had murdered four or five of his own country- 
men : and allusions to various other instances of the 
kind may be found in my journals. 

The whole of the Morea, just before the arrival 
of Capo d'Istria, was assuming the form of so many 
baronial tenements ; which were, in some instances, 
at open war with each other. Griva had establishech 
himself as Chieftain in the Palamidi at Napoli di 
Romania. Tzokres occupied a similar station at 
Argos. Colocotroni had his castle and retainers at 
Karidena; Iatrakos, at Mistra; Coliopulo, Niketas, 
and others, elsewhere. Griva not only sallied forth 
from the Palamidi on foraging expeditions, on which 
he made spoil of all the cattle he could obtain, 
whether of friend or foe, but he encountered the 
Argives in the plain of their city, in an action in 
which seventy men fell. At Kranidi I found every 
thing in a posture of defence ; and prepared to 
oppose a most determined resistance when Griva,* 
who was expected, according to his menace, to 
attack them, should make his appearance. The 
manner in which Griva bombarded Napoli, and the 
Castle of Uetch Kale, is sufficiently known. One- 
of his balls entered a window of the new mosque, 
which had been employed as a senate-house ; passed 
through the opposite wall ; and wounded two of the 
senators (one mortally) in an adjoining room. It 



AND THE LEVANT. 



will probably be long before the force of these 
deadly feuds is wholly imfelt. During- the Revo- 
lution the evil was considered irremediable. Con- 
versing with Greeks on the surprising infatuation 
which could cherish dissensions whilst the common 
foe was ready to destroy them, nothing was more 
usual than the reply, Tl kzkIv too y&ovq, " 'Tis the 
evil of our nation." The story of Ancient Greek 
divisions induced the belief that Modern Greeks 
must be equally subject to these calamities. 

But it is upon the Turks that Greek vengeance 
has descended with tenfold furv. The disgrace 
of their nation, the oppression of their Church, 
public insults and private injuries, the wrongs 
of centuries treasured up in their memories, ills 
known, and ills unknown, these, and innumerable 
other causes, gave force and impetuosity to the 
blow which, in its effects, has shaken the very throne 
of the Sultan, and deluged with Mussulman blood 
the fields of Greece. It is not my intention to jus- 
tify deeds which are unjustifiable. Let it however 
be remembered, in favour of the Greeks, that not 
only had " the vengeance of ages whetted their 
blade,*' and that they felt themselves impelled by 
Religion itself to destroy their infidel foes, but they 
were an undisciplined and an ungoverned multitude. 
Who would certify us, that an English army, in the 
moment of victory, would observe treaties, however 
sacred, if destitute of officers who could enforce 



86 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



obedience? Nay, Is there any act perpetrated in 
the Greek Revolution, more atrocious than the mas- 
sacre of Glenco ? 1 And if the history of the Greek 
Revolution abound with instances of perfidious 
slaughter, let it also be noticed, that it can furnish 
instances of generosity and forbearance. It is not 
my office to narrate facts which fall to the lot of the 
historian ; but, amongst the flagitious deeds which 
came to my own knowledge, I add the following to 
those which I have noticed elsewhere. 

I passed over from Hydra to Kastri in a small 
boat, which was under the direction of a Greek 
female. At the period when the Hydriotes were 
satiating their vengeance on all Turks who fell 
within their reach, a benevolent individual of the 
island was very desirous of saving from death a 
Turk who was known to him. To effect this kind 
intention, he sent him over to Kastri and placed 
him under the protection of this woman. She ap- 
peared to be a person suitable for the purpose, not 
only for other causes, but because she was in some 
degree dependent on the compassionate Hydriot. 
For a time the Turk enjoyed security; but at length, 
falling seriously ill, the woman became weary of the 
fesk of attending on him. She therefore surrounded 

V If any one question whether Greek perfidiousness be equalled by 
Turkish, let him only study the life of Muhammed II. to cite no other 
examples. — See Upham's History of the Ottoman Empire, Vol. I. pp. 209, 
211, 213, 218. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



87 



his bed with fire-wood; and, when the unhappy 
patient was unable to make any efforts for his safety, 
she applied a torch to the wood, aud the unpitied 
Mussulman was consumed to ashes. I had this fact 
from persons well acquainted with the circumstances. 

In what an extraordinary manner attention to 
Religion may be intermingled with the most ruth- 
less deeds, we may judge from the following recital. 
One of the most learned and pious ecclesiastics of 
the Greek church, who informed me of the transac- 
tion, had occasion, during the early times of the 
Revolution, to visit the Island of Spezzie. Just at 
that time, twenty Turks were there as prisoners. 
One Sunday, the Spezziotes determined on their 
destruction, and proceeded at once to execute their 
purpose. Nineteen had been already cut off, but 
the twentieth had by some means escaped their 
hands. My informant was engaged in assisting at 
the Vespers in an adjoining church ; when one of 
those who had been employed in the work of death 
entered the church, his hands dyed with the blood 
of his victims. He proceeded to the officiating 
priests, and demanded of them if the Turk, who had 
escaped, were there concealed. On their disclaiming 
all knowledge of his place of refuge, he proceeded 
to search for him throughout the building, even 
entering into the place only allotted to priests, and 
styled, from its use in the Lord's Supper, the Holy 
Table. On finding his search fruitless, he per- 



88 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



FORMED HIS DEVOTIONS BEFORE THE PICTURES, 
CROSSING HIMSELF ACCORDING TO CUSTOM, and 

then left the church. Soon afterwards he discovered 
the Mahomedan, and dispatched him. 

Whilst crimes of this character were perpetrated, 
I am happy to declare my conviction that there were 
many who had no share in them, and who sincerely 
abhorred them. During my visit to Greece, the 
entire feeling of animosity appeared to have spent 
itself : and I adduce the following fact, as one of 
the instances of generosity and forbearance pre- 
viously alluded to. — Seventy Turkish prisoners, or 
slaves as they were termed, were employed in pub- 
lic labours in the Island of iEgina. Instigated by 
a cause with which I am unacquainted, they deter- 
mined to petition the Senate for the gift of liberty. 
No sooner was the request presented, than a uni- 
versal disposition to comply with it was manifest 
amongst the senators. " Give the poor fellows 
their liberty. Send them home to their wives and 
families." This was the general feeling. The reso- 
lution was accordingly formed, and their freedom 
was granted. This circumstance took place whilst I 
was in iEgina. 

A violation of the laws of chastity is unhappily 
too frequent in every land. But, however Greeks 
may be guilty in this respect, I am persuaded that 
they are not deeper in guilt than other nations. Public 
impurity is certainly far less conspicuous in Turkey 



AND THE LEVANT. 



89 



than in Christendom. During a residence of almost 
five years in the Levant, I have seen less open vice 
of this order than is too often visible in London in a 
single day. I have even heard a tribute of acknow- 
ledgement awarded to the virtue of Greek girls, by 
a person who belonged to the infamous class of men 
who glory in deeds of impurity. If exceptions may 
be found to the general tenor of these statements, 
I doubt not they will occur in places where Frank 
intercourse has conveyed the immoral contagion : 
and I believe that vicious habits will much more 
frequently be found to have originated in the temp- 
tations incidental to poverty, than in Europe. 

In one respect, the Greek Church is grossly 
culpable. The facility with which many Greek 
Bishops grant divorces is unequalled in any other 
Christian Communion. In Corfu, this fatal abuse 
has had the most pernicious consequences. The 
dissolution of the most solemn family ties has been 
frequent. In other places I have more rarely heard 
of so improper a practice. 

There is a very amiable trait in the character 
of Greek families, which deserves to be noticed. 
It is considered dishonourable in a young man to 
contract the marriage relation till he has previously 
provided for the marriage of his sisters. An English 
gentleman, conversing with Madame Tricupi, the 
sister of Mavrocordato, was asked if he had any 
sisters. On learning that he had one who was still 



90 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



unmarried, the lady instantly inquired, " Why do 
you not return home, and exert yourself for her 
marriage 1 " This question was in perfect unison 
with their feelings on this subject. Sometimes it 
degenerates into excess. A young man in Ithaca 
informed me that, in consequence of the recent 
marriage of his sister, his brother-in-law had come 
and despoiled him of some effects which were of 
considerable value to him. He had, however, 
yielded to the demand, on the conviction that such 
was the accustomed duty. 

With drunkenness the Greeks certainly cannot 
be charged nationally. During the whole of my 
abode in the East, I only remember to have met 
with one instance of confirmed subjection to this 
vice. I am persuaded that a person might traverse 
the whole extent of the Turkish Empire without 
ever seeing an example of the kind. If we contrast 
with this fact the melancholy instances of public 
intoxication, in the case of the British soldiers, 
which are so frequently exhibited in Corfu and the 
other Ionian Islands, we shall find cause of humilia- 
tion and sorrow. I have heard Greeks style our 
English troops brutes, in reference to this 

degrading vice. 

Rapine and piracy. — Man is not only a 
destructive and sensual, but also a predatory animal. 
The annals of every country inform us that, in 
proportion to the promptitude and certainty of 



AND THE LEVANT. 



91 



criminal punishments, rapine prevails or is extin- 
guished. The same fact is conspicuous in Turkey. 
In districts, and periods when robbery meets with 
summary visitation, it is scarcely heard of ; but 
when the contrary is the case, as frequently occurs, 
it is the land of theft and spoliation. We often hear 
the Europeans of Smyrna speaking of the security 
with which very large sums of money in specie are 
continually transported to Constantinople by the 
Tartar who conveys the regular post; and they 
sometimes ask us whether, in England itself, wealth 
so unguarded would remain from year to year so 
unassailed. Whatever the fact may prove, it speaks 
equally for the honesty of Greeks as well as of 
Turks, if honesty were the cause ; for there is a 
large population of Greeks in the line of route. 
But I rather refer it to the very expeditious manner 
in which the Turks ever avenge any theft which 
would effect themselves, if not on the real delin- 
quent, certainly on some victim or other. Avanias 
— or forced contributions — affecting whole commu- 
nities, and destruction lighting on some individual, 
though perhaps not the real criminal, strike terror 
into an entire population, and check crime much 
more effectually than the slow and benevolent and 
just process of our country, which scarcely ever 
condemns the innocent, and sometimes suffers the 
guilty to escape for want of evidence. 

That Turks and Greeks are both inclined to 



92 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



plunder, will be evident to every one familiar with 
their history. The extortions of Pachas and Agas 
are notorious ; and, in disorderly times, Asia 
Minor has had its hordes of banditti, and its indi- 
vidual robbers. But such men as Karasman Oglou, 
Ali Pasha, and Mehmet Ali Pasha have, by the 
force of their authority, ensured the most perfect 
safety to persons and property. The late destruc- 
tion of the Janissaries gave such absolute command 
to the Grand Signor, that it was possible to travel 
in districts, formerly the most dangerous, without 
any apprehension. Count Laborde informed me, 
that he visited a certain part of Asia Minor under 
the especial protection of a Turk, who apprized him, 
that had he come but a few months sooner, he 
should himself have been the first man to plunder 
him. 

The misrule of many parts prior to the Revolution, 
and the anarchy and confusion of the Revolution 
itself, opened a wide field for the exertion of robbers 
and pirates; and, as was the case with Ancient 
Greece, according to Thucydides, the profession 
was deemed honourable. 1 It is a boast, even now, 
to be descended from an ancient Klepht family. 
Many of the Greek captains who made the greatest 
figure in the revolution, had been leaders of banditti, 

1 Ovk e%ovTo<; iron al<r%iJV7}V rovrov rov epyov, tpepovToq ri 



AND THE LEVANT. 93 

with which they had infested the highways of the 
Peloponnesus ; and it was to the influence and 
eminence gained in this manner, that they owed 
their subsequent power. I have often heard a 
Greek aphorism, which reminds us of an expression 
in the Book of Proverbs, To KXe^evov dp) elvai yXvKv 
(Stolen Lamb is sweet x ) : and it is understood in 
the sense of exculpating theft, by the consideration 
that an object is the more enjoyed for which nothing 
is paid. 

Nor was it merely on Turks that the Greek 
klephts exercised their plundering propensities. 
They spared not their own countrymen, nor even 
the ecclesiastical order. A captain of klephts in- 
formed me, as a ludicrous occurrence, of their 
having once encountered and pillaged the principal 
Protosyngelos in the Greek Church. But this 
proved a fatal adventure to many of them ; for, on 
his return to Constantinople, he not only procured 
the most alarming excommunications to be pro- 
nounced against them, but took such active measures 
to arouse the arm of justice, that many of the 
klephts were taken and made public examples, and 
the rest obliged to flee from the Morea. Asking 
an old klepht, whom I once met with, how many 
Turks he had killed in the exercise of his profession, 
he replied, "Twenty." Soon afterwards, I inquired 



1 Stolen waters are sweet.— Prov. ix. 1/. 



94 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



of his captain whether it was the fact. He assured 
me that it was a mere boast, but that he really 
remembered his killing one of his own countrymen. 

The Maniotes are represented to be in the per- 
petual practice of depredation, not only on strangers 
but even on each other. They follow the plough 
with fire-arms attached to their person, uncertain 
when an attack may be made on them by the pos- 
sessor of the adjoining field. I have heard the 
following anecdote related by Greeks. It is one 
of the most singular combinations of superstition and 
crime which can well be imagined ; and, whether 
true or false, it proves that the persons accused are 
deemed capable of such an action. 

A bishop, on a journey through the district of 
Maina, 1 was waylaid and plundered. He had 
scarcely been permitted to proceed, when the rob- 
bers became uneasy, from the apprehension that he 
would excommunicate them, as soon as he had 
arrived at a place of safety. Alarmed by such a 
danger, they saw no means of averting it, but by the 
death of the bishop. Influenced by this considera- 
tion, they went in pursuit of the unhappy prelate, 
overtook, and actually put him to death. 

On the amazing extent to which piracy was 
carried in the Archipelago, I shall offer no re- 
marks, as the subject is well known. But the sur- 

1 The Greeks call this district, Manyee ; and the inhabitants Manyotes. 
Maina is unintelligible to them. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



95 



prising manner in which it was entirely quelled, 
on the arrival of Capo cTIstria., is worthy of notice. 
Men-of-war, of all sizes and nations, had been 
scouring the iEgean to no purpose ; but I question 
if more than one single instance of piracy occurred 
after his coming. This circumstance^ is to be at- 
tributed in part, to a strict examination of boats 
and vessels of every description, which were regis- 
tered, and obliged to sail with proper credentials ; 
in part, to the idea which universally prevailed, 
that Capo d'Istria had as many bayonets of the 
three Powers (to use their own expression) at com- 
mand as he thought proper ; and, in part, to the 
general restoration of internal order and public 
credit, which diminished the temptations to a life 
of rapine. When I made my principal tour in 
the Morea, at this period, I took with me an 
armed Pallikari, in compliance with the advice of 
friends ; but I found such perfect tranquillity in all 
directions, that his protection was wholly needless. 



CHAPTER VII. 



MORAL CHARACTER OF GREEKS. 

Falsehood of Greeks not superior to Turkish— Turkish False-witnesses— 
Conduct of Sir Thomas Maitland to Greek Judges — Illustration of St. 
Paul's Character of the Cretans — Disadvantages under which the Oriental 
Clergy have laboured — Excellent Character of two Greek Ecclesiastics, 
and interesting Adventure with one of them in the Island of Cefalonia. 

No charge is more frequently and loudly urged 
against the Greeks than their want of truth. This 
accusation appears to derive strength from a similar 
characteristic of their ancestors; and " Mendax 
Graecia" (Lying Greece) is deemed as applicable 
to modern as to ancient times. I am obliged to 
acknowledge, that there is too much justice in 
the imputation; but I have never been convinced 
that the Greeks are more culpable in this respect 
than the Turks. I have never met with an instance 
of superior honesty in Turks, though others pro- 
fess to have done so; and it is difficult to say 
what kind of falsehood can exceed that which is 
practised in Turkish courts of justice. The em- 
ployment of false witnesses, even before the Grand 
Vizir or any other public functionary, is so fre- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



97 



quent and well known, that it might almost seem 
as if no shame were felt in consequence. I have 
been positively assured that no difficulty ever exists 
in hiring as many false- witnesses as are needful 
for any purpose whatsoever. To such a pitch is 
this practice carried, that occurrences of the fol- 
lowing kind are often heard of. A man brings 
forward a false-witness, who swears that he lent 
a certain sum of money ; and that, in consequence, 
he demands repayment. The judge is bribed by 
the defendant. How then must he act, that the 
formality of justice may be maintained I The de- 
fendant produces a false-witness ; who swears, that 
true enough, the plaintiff lent him the money, but 
that it was repaid at a time specified. 

If instances of superior good faith in Turks could 
actually be discovered, might they not be explained, 
on the ground that the Turk, owing to his supe- 
rior rank, has generally more to lose, and less to 
gain by duplicity than the Greek I It was a sense 
of the force of this principle which led Sir Tho- 
mas Maitland to assign to the Greek Judges in 
the Ionian Islands what some judged salaries too 
great. " He would make it worth their while 
to be honest men." This was his answer, as is 
reported. 

It deserves to be mentioned, that the Candiotes 
of the present day are precisely what they were 
in the days of St. Paul : The Cr'etians are always 

F 



98 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



liars, evil beasts, slow bellies. They are notori* 
ously, whether Turks or Greeks, the worst cha- 
racters in the Levant. Ask at Smyrna, Who were 
the Turks that perpetrated the principal atrocities 
when the Moollah was assassinated, and so many 
Greeks massacred? The answer is, The Candiotes. 
Ask in the Archipelago, Who were the Greeks 
that kept the islands of the iEgean in constant 
alarm, and were most notorious for murders and 
piracies ? The reply is, The Candiotes. The fol- 
lowing story is illustrative of the same truth. The 
Greek Admiral Miaoules happening to be in com- 
pany with a Candiote, joked him on the character 
of his island. " Ah, you Cretans, we know what 
sort of men you are. St. Paul has given you your 
character, long since : " The Cretians are always 
liars." The Candiote attempted to parry the satire, 
by urging the reply: " Yes; but David says, in 
the book of Psalms, All men are liars." *■* True," 
rejoined Miaoules ; ' ' but David does not say, All 
men are ALWAYS liars ; whereas St. Paul says, 
The Cretians are ALWAYS liars." 

That the Greeks consider each other guilty of 
duplicity, is evident from the following distich ; 
which is rhyme, according to Modern-Greek pro- 
nunciation : 

Oi 'AByjvalot, kou ®Yj(3aioi, kou kocko) MiTvXrjvahi, 
*AAXo "keycvv to [3pa$v, aXXo koc^vovv to rocy^v. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



99 



The Athenians, and Thebans, and wicked Mityleneans, 

Say one thing in the evening, and do another in the morning, 

The question will be asked with interest, What 
is the character of the Greek Clergy? Do the 
successors of the Chrysostoms and Gregorys of 
better days inherit any of the zeal and piety of 
their distinguished precursors ? What are the dis- 
tinctive qualities of the modern angels of the 
seven churches ? Answers, we own, of a very 
painful nature must be given to these questions. 
But, instead of indulging in censure, it is more 
charitable to recollect, that to the Clergy of the 
Greek Church no advantages like our own have 
been afforded. Not only are they strangers to 
Academic tuition, but to the simple doctrines and 
precepts of Christianity. Not only were those 
truths, which, by the agency of the Spirit of God, 
have so moralizing an effect, never faithfully in- 
culcated upon them, but perhaps never, in the 
course of a long life, was a single instance of un- 
bending adherence to truth, justice, and virtue ex- 
hibited before them. Their corruption is precisely 
such as may be expected in every land where Turk- 
like masters rule, and where Christian light is ex- 
tinguished. And even amidst such circumstances 
as these, there are some irregularities, with which 
too many of our own clergy might be charged, 
from which the Greeks may claim exemption. So 
F 2 



100 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

strong a sense exists of the impropriety of clergy- 
men being seen at places of public amusement, 
that I find the following passage in my journal, 
at Corfu : 

" Feb. 8, 1825. — Two priests were detected, last 
Sunday, attending the theatre. The bishop, who 
received immediate information of the circumstance, 
suspended them from clerical functions for two 
months, and also inflicted some other punishment." 

Are there no exceptions to the general character 
of the clergy ? Are there no ecclesiastics of a pious 
character? are natural inquiries. I am willing to 
hope, that there are many amongst those with 
whom I am unacquainted ; and I have myself met 
with some who are, happily, of a very different 
character. 

When I paid a visit to the island of Cefalonia, 
I formed an acquaintance with a distinguished 
Greek ecclesiastic, who had filled a most important 
and useful situation in one of the islands of the 
Archipelago. His attainments were very consider- 
able. He had enjoyed the advantage of an edu- 
cation in France ; and he has since diligently em- 
ployed his time and his knowledge for the benefit 
of his countrymen. Conversing with him on various 
doctrines, I invariably found that he appealed to 
the Sacred Writings as the ultimate authority. He 
seemed to regard nothing as important, which could 
not be established by Scriptural sanction. A copy 



AND THE LEVANT. 



101 



of the Gospel he carried in his bosom ; and I have 
seen him produce it in travelling-, and exhort his 
countrymen to peruse it. We sailed together from 
the port of Samos in Cefalonia, for Ithaca. Being 
assailed by a violent squall, we were compelled, 
as night drew on, to run into a little harbour of 
Cefalonia. On the beach there was no shelter ; 
and it was necessary for us to climb rocks of con- 
siderable elevation, in order to reach a monastery 
which was on the summit. The adventure was some- 
what perilous and painful, enveloped as we were 
in pitchy darkness, and assailed by the pelting- 
storm. At length we reached the wished-for re- 
treat ; and a room in the monastery was as- 
signed to my friend and myself, for our nocturnal 
repose. 

When we were about to compose ourselves to 

rest, I observed to : " If friends in England 

are placed in such circumstances as these, it is 
usual for them to unite together in prayer for 
Divine protection and blessing." The words had 
scarcely fallen from my lips, when my companion 
replied, "Well, let us now do the same:" and 
instantly, without any further proposal on my part, 
he knelt down and offered up a most interesting 
prayer. When we recollect, that the Greeks are 
almost unusued to kneel — that posture being- only 
adopted by them once in the year, that prayer, 
even in the modern language, is almost unknown to 
F 3 



102 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

them, their own prayers being in ancient Greek ; 
and that extempore prayer, such as is usual in 
families in our own country, is wholly unusual 
amongst them — I cannot but deem such a readiness 
as this, in the exercise of supplication, a striking 
and hopeful symptom. 

Soon afterwards, my friend spent several days in 
an English family of piety, where he led the devo- 
tions of the family regularly. Another evidence 
of the state of his mind was afforded by a very 
severe illness which afflicted him. His life was 
considered in the greatest danger, and he was so 
indisposed that he could speak with difficulty. Sit- 
ting by him at this critical moment, I observed the 
tears stealing down his cheeks. " My dear friend, 
why are you weeping ? " was my inquiry. " These 
are not tears of sorrow/' he replied, " but of joy. 
I am rejoicing in the prospect of my future 
happiness." 

That there may be many excellent Greeks, who 
live in the spirit of prayer, and in the hope of im- 
mortality, I indulge the confidence, not only from 
this instance, but from others which I might men- 
tion. One shall suffice. The individual, to whom 
I refer, is a person of learning. Conversing with 
him on the subject of prayer, he gave me to under- 
stand, that life would be most intolerable to him, 
if he could not obtain at least one hour daily for 
communion with God. His expression was a very 



AND THE LEVANT. 



103 



strong one. " Were I to be in Paradise, and could 
not daily hold communion with God, to me it would 
be no Paradise." I have reason to believe that he 
spoke the language of his heart. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CEMETERIES, AND RITES OF BURIAL. 

Turkish, Jewish, and Armenian Cemeteries at Smyrna and Constantinople 
— Effect produced by the English Burial-Service in Turkey — Greek 
Funerals — Illustration of the Miracle at Nain— Persons buried alive — 
The last embrace of the deceased — Professional Mourners — Inspection of 
graves at the close of twelve months— Superstitious ideas concerning 
un decayed corpses. 

It may not be unsuitable to conclude our review 
of Greek Religion and Morals by some observations 
in regard to the rites of burial. In every country a 
pathetic interest accompanies these ceremonies. 
Few persons are so entirely resigned to insensibility, 
as to survey without emotion the remains of a 
fellow-mortal consigned to the cold and silent 
grave. At such times, we might suppose that 
reflection would force itself upon the most thought- 
less : and that, from viewing the termination of life 
in the instance of one of their friends or neighbours, 
men would pass by a natural transition to the con- 
templation of their own latter end. In Turkey, the 
places and rites of sepulture have an affecting pro- 
minence and solemnity connected with them, scarcely 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 105 

equalled in Christendom. In general, the dead are 
interred in very spacious cemeteries contiguous to 
towns and villages. There appear to be two cities 
placed side by side — the city of the living, and the 
city of the dead ; and the population of the latter 
far exceeds that of the former. 

The Turkish cemeteries around Smyrna cover a 
very considerable space of ground. They may be 
recognised, at a distance, by the lofty and sombre 
phalanx of cypress-trees, which are always the 
favourite attendant on Turkish graves. The Jews 
have also covered the face of a very large hill, 
rising above the city of Smyrna, with the stones 
which note the place where the earthly remains 
of their deceased countrymen are deposited. There 
is a desolation and forlorn appearance presented by 
this spot, unsheltered as it is by a single tree, which 
is in striking contrast with the thick shade and 
beautiful order of the Turkish places of burial. It 
shews that, even in death, the Jew is not exempt 
from the contempt and oppression of which he could 
not divest himself whilst living. 

The immense burial-grounds of the Turks on the 
Asiatic side of Constantinople have been much 
celebrated by travellers. There is also a cemetery 
of the Armenians close to Pera, which I often used 
to visit with peculiar delight. The eye beholds, to 
a wide extent, stone after stone glittering upon 
innumerable graves ; whilst thick spreading trees 
F 5 



106 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

extend their branches and their shade above them. 
A silent awe pervades the mind, in contemplation 
of the scene ; and the feeling is often increased by 
the new arrival of corpses which are to be depo- 
sited by the side of their ancestors. In walking 
silently and lonely among these graves, I have not 
unfrequently seen Armenian females weeping over 
the last abode of a husband, a father, or a friend. 

The interment of a corpse according to the ritual 
of our Church had always, to my mind, a striking 
solemnity in Turkey. On passing through the 
streets to the place of burial, innumerable eyes of 
strangers, of a diversity of nations, gazed fixedly 
upon the scene. All is still. The pursuits of busi- 
ness are suspended ; a lucid interval appears to be 
imparted to the delirium of folly and sin ; and when 
the muffled drum and martial step which accompany 
to the dust the body of an English sailor, add their 
interest to the procession, the feelings of spectators 
are wrought up to no common pitch of excitement. 
During the reading of the burial-service, more 
especially at Constantinople, where the English 
burial-ground is in a place exceedingly public, a 
solemn attention arrests all present, even though 
to few the language is intelligible. Turks, Greeks, 
Armenians, Jews, and Christians, appear to have 
forgotten their animosities, and, at the grave of 
death, to have recollected that a common fate awaits 
them all. However distinct they may be from each 



AND THE LEVANT. 



107 



other in the enjoyments and attainments of life, and 
however they may differ in what is much more 
momentous — the prospects of immortality, still is 
there an awful uniformity, which unites in one 
inseparable communion the men of all ranks, of all 
ages, and of all religions : Dust thou art, and unto 
dust shalt thou return. 

Very frequently, whilst you are silently engaged 
in your apartment, the stillness of a Turkish town, 
where no rumbling of wheels is ever heard, is 
interrupted by the distant sound of the funeral 
chaunt of the Greek priests. As the voices grow 
more loud, you hasten to the window to behold 
the procession. The priests move first, bearing 
their burning tapers, and by their dark and flowing 
robes give an idea of mourning in harmony with 
the occasion. The corpse is always exhibited 
to full view. It is placed upon a bier, which is 
borne aloft upon the shoulders, and is dressed in the 
best and gayest garments possessed by the deceased. 
T have sometimes seen a young female, who had 
departed in the bloom of life and beauty, adorned 
rather as a bride to meet the bridegroom, than as 
one who was to be the tenant of the chamber of 
corruption. The young man at Nain, who was 
restored to life by the command of our Saviour, 
was doubtless carried on a bier of this kind. When 
our Lord intimated the design of interposing in his 
favour, they that bare him stood still. And when 



108 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

the miraculous energy was exerted, he that was 
dead, sat up, and began to speak ; (Luke vii. 15.) 
I believe it is unusual for any of the Orientals to be 
buried in coffins. 

The Greeks allow so short a time to intervene 
between the decease of an individual and his burial, 
that certain evidences have occasionally been af- 
forded of premature interment. Once, as I was 
assured, a person on his way to the grave, through 
the streets of Smyrna, sat up and began to speak, 
to the great alarm of all present. There was a 
person frequently seen in Smyrna, when I was 
resident there, who had actually been placed in his 
grave, and left in that situation. On recovering 
his recollection, he emitted cries, which were soon 
heard, and which led to his release before any fatal 
consequences had ensued. The nature of the graves, 
as will soon be described, afforded him the means 
of escape, which an English grave and coffiD would 
have utterly precluded. 

The closing part of the Greek Burial-service, 
commencing with the words, " Come, and impart 
the last embrace," is very affecting. The friends 
of the departed press forward from every part of the 
church, and kiss his cold and pallid lips, and weep 
over him. It is considered a very peculiar mark 
of disrespect to neglect this last office of affection. 
It is, perhaps, a foolish weakness ; but I own I was 
not superior to it. I felt a solemn species of de- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



109 



light in the idea, that, if I died in Greece, I should 
have a large number of most affectionate friends to 
come and pay me this office of kindness, before they 
consigned me " earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust 
to dust." 

The custom of employing professional mourners 
to howl for the dead still exists in some parts of the 
Levant. One morning, whilst taking a solitary 
walk in JEg'ma, the most plaintive accents fell upon 
my ear which I had ever heard. I followed in the 
direction from which the sounds proceeded ; and 
they conducted me to a new-made grave, over which 
a woman, hired for the occasion, was pouring forth 
lamentation and mourning and ivoe, with such 
doleful strains and feelings as could scarcely have 
been supposed other than sincere. It was the grave 
of a young man who had been cut down in the 
bloom of life, and very pathetic expostulations were 
addressed to him, in reference to his quitting so 
soon his family, his friends, and his property. 

After the conclusion of the Burial-service, the 
corpse is stripped of its gay attire, and committed 
to the grave with no other covering than that of a 
large winding-sheet. In Smyrna, and some other 
places, the graves are vaults with nothing above 
them but a grave-stone. Here, for twelve-months, 
the corpse reposes undisturbed ; but, at the close 
of that period, the large stone is removed, and the 
remains are inspected with much interest. If it 



110 RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 

appear that entire decay has ensued, satisfaction is 
expressed : the bones are removed, and placed in 
the charnel-house ; and the grave is left vacant 
for the next member of the family who may inherit 
it. But if, unhappily, the corpse should be found 
unmouldered to dust, it is deemed a most inau- 
spicious circumstance ; it is considered a certain 
sign that the deceased had left the world under the 
excommunication of some ecclesiastic ; and it is the 
duty of the relatives to use every means within 
their power to rescue the unhappy spirit from so 
melancholy a condition. Hence, bishops and priests 
are sent for ; portions of the Gospel are read over 
the corpse ; and many superstitious practices are 
employed, in hopes of producing decay, and of re- 
lieving the excommunicated soul. When symptoms 
of decay appear, as they naturally will after ex- 
posure to the air, comfort returns to the minds 
of the survivors ; and hopes are entertained, in 
consequence of their religious endeavours, that their 
friend will now obtain repose. Persons who reside 
amongst the Greeks will be surprised to find how 
many absurd narratives of this description are in 
circulation amongst them. It must also be deemed 
a singular circumstance, that the resistance of a 
corpse to putrefaction should be in some instances, 
as just described, the token of excommunication; 
and in others, as in St. Spiridion and St. Dionysius, 
a proof of superior saintship. 



CHAPTER IX. 



INTRODUCTION OF THE SCRIPTURES INTO THE 
GREEK CHURCH. 

Preliminary remarks — The Greek Church, for ages, destitute of the Scrip- 
tures in an intelligible language— Translation into modern Greek procured 
by Cyril Lucar — His martyrdom — Hilarion's Translation sanctioned by 
the Hierarchy — Scriptural circulation encouraged by the Bishop of Ta- 
lanta, and by the Archbishop of Smyrna — Sale of Scriptures at Smyrna 
and Constantinople— Scriptures exempted from custom-house duty at 
Syra — Sale in iEgina— Success of Joannes Lazarides — Introduction of 
the Sacred Scriptures into the schools — The Scriptures read in several 
churches in Tino — Church of the Panagia in that island — Greek custom 
of citing the Scriptures, both in public and private— Comparison of the 
Greek and Romish Churches, in regard to the use of the Bible. 

Missionary efforts in Turkey possess a different 
character from those of most other countries. In 
regions totally heathen, we go to teach the simple 
elements of Christian doctrine. We seek to in- 
troduce the worship of the One True God, and to 
overturn every system of polytheism and idolatry 
which may be predominant. We proclaim Jesus 
Christ as the Son of God ; and as One who can 
confer on the guilty, and hopeless, prerogatives, 
immunities and favours, perfect in their nature, and 



112 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



eternal in their duration. We establish a visible 
Church of Christ, where previously the very sem- 
blance of it was unknown. 

But, hitherto, no opportunity has been presented 
of proclaiming truth to Turkish Mahomedans. The 
instant a Mussulman abandons his faith in Turkey, 
he is led away to execution : and a firman is in 
force which forbids the introduction of the Chris- 
tian Scriptures to the possession of Mussulmans. 
Hence, with the exception of China, there is per- 
haps, no nation which more entirely excludes itself 
from the benefit of Christian efforts. 

Our labours in the Levant are confined almost 
entirely to persons professing the Christian religion; 
and we have no design of converting men to the 
Christian name and ritual. Our simple intention 
is, to bring back to the truths of the Gospel those 
who have swerved from them to a melancholy ex- 
tent ; to raise up, by Divine assistance, Oriental 
Luthers, Cranmers, Latimers, and Ridleys, who 
may be instrumental in restoring to the East that 
pure light which originally emanated from it; and 
thus, instead of present errors and corruptions, to 
aim at exhibiting in those countries a pure and 
spiritual Church. 

The nature of our proceedings will be better 
understood, if we call to mind the state of England 
prior to the Reformation. At that period, there 
was much in our country which may find objects 



AND THE LEVANT. 



113 



of comparison amongst the Christians of the Levant* 
In some respects, English Christians were in a 
worse situation in the days of Henry VIII. than 
are Greek Christians at present. Not to mention 
that the errors of the former were more numerous, 
the Papal system possessed much more worldly and 
diabolical wisdom than does the Greek Church. 
It was protected, to a much greater extent, by 
political power, and by a larger range of those 
means which produce influence on the human mind. 
The Romish Church is an army well disciplined 
in the defence of error. The Greek Church may 
be rather compared to their own irregular troops, 
who are only capable of fighting behind bushes 
and entrenchments, and in very advantageous 
positions. 

Education had made less progress amongst the 
lower orders of English, at that period, than, at 
present, amongst the inferior ranks of the Greek 
nation. Equal facilities for the introduction of 
copies of the Scriptures, and other beneficial works, 
did not exist. Not only was it more difficult to 
procure impressions of the Bible, but the English 
Bishops most vehemently opposed their circulation, 
and destroyed them when they fell within their 
reach. Multitudes were at that time compelled 
to abjure the Apostolic truths which had been 
conveyed to their understandings ; and some, who 
remained faithful to their convictions, were com- 



114 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

mitted to the flames. Now, the Greeks may ask, 
with triumph, What member of our Church ever 
applied fire to the Word of God ? and they may 
almost claim exemption from the charge of perse- 
cution. The Church of Rome has ever shewed 
herself a persecuting Church, and has established 
her fatal right to the characteristic of the mystical 
Babylon (Rev. xviii. 24): In her was found the 
blood of Prophets and of Saints, and of all that 
were slain upon the earth. But, in modern times 
at least, the Greek Church, however degraded, 
cannot be charged with this guilt. I know of no 
instance of her plunging the sword of persecution 
into the breast of the martyrs of Jesus. 

But, great as were the obstacles employed to 
thwart the efforts of the English Reformers, they 
all proved abortive. Tindal, Coverdale, and others, 
exerted themselves in procuring translations and 
impressions of the English Bible. They introduced 
them into our country from Holland and other parts 
of the continent. In defiance of every impediment, 
those Scriptures were extensively perused. During 
the reign of Henry VIII. the light of true religion 
was silently piercing the gloom of Papal darkness ; 
and so many persons had become convinced of the 
truth contained in the Sacred Writings, that when 
a free toleration of religion was bestowed, on the 
accession of Edward VI., the nation, almost in a 
body, rejected Popery. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



115 



The means which we employ for enlightening 
the Eastern Churches are precisely of a similar 
character, as may be observed from the suc- 
ceeding chapters. Is there, then, any thing chi- 
merical in the expectation, that, by the blessing 
of God, our efforts in the present day will, even- 
tually, have success equal to that of the English 
Reformation? Are not the Scriptures a clue, as 
fully competent to extricate the Greeks of our age 
from the dark labyrinth of error, as the English 
of former times ? ( Let it be affirmed and granted, 
that the religious infatuations of mankind are firm 
as adamant : still it is a fact, that a hammer harder 
than adamant once shattered the rock to atoms. 
And now it is proposed, again to smite the same 
substance with the same instrument : and are those 
to be deemed irrational, who anticipate the same 
success ? ' 1 

The Greek Church, like some other Christian 
communities, has exhibited for ages a most extra- 
ordinary spectacle. It consisted of a society of men, 
who professed to believe in God, and to be dis- 
ciples of Jesus Christ ; and yet were they destitute 
of the only organ by which the Deity has been 
pleased to reveal Himself to mankind, and of the 
only standard to which we can refer for the doc- 
trines of the Christian faith. By means of the 
gradual change of the vernacular language, the 

1 See " The History of Enthusiasm." 



116 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Scriptures, in an intelligible form, had glided out 
of the hands of the Greeks ; and so little were 
they alive to the importance of understanding their 
import, that it became no subject of inquiry with 
them, how the evil could be remedied. It is on the 
Christians of our own island, and in our own aera, 
that the favour has been conferred of restoring to 
the Oriental Church, that light which, if not alto- 
gether extinguished, at least had for ages suffered 
a melancholy eclipse. 

The success which has attended this undertaking 1 
is remarkable. We might have anticipated the most 
unfavourable results, not only from the pernicious 
opposition to the same measure which has been 
uniformly employed by the Church of Rome, but 
also from recollection of the fatal consequences 
which attended a previous attempt to introduce the 
Scriptures into the Oriental Communion. 

Cyril Lucar, who is known to the learned world 
as having sent to England the celebrated manu- 
script, called the Alexandrian Codex, spent part 
of his youth at Geneva. There he imbibed the 
doctrines of the Reformation ; and returned to the 
East, fired, as it appeared in the sequel, with the 
laudable ambition of communicating long-lost truth 
to his countrymen. In process of time, he mounted 
the Patriarchal throne of Constantinople ; and be- 
gan to exercise the high influence which his elevated 
post afforded, for the very important purpose of 



AND THE LEVANT. 



117 



introducing a translation of the New Testament 
into his Church. He caused a version of the New 
Testament into modern Greek to be effected ; under 
his direction, a printing press was brought from the 
West, and an impression of the work struck off ; 
and he prefixed a preface, in which he urges the 
members of his Communion to peruse the Scrip- 
tures in their vernacular language. Who would 
not have supposed that a gift so invaluable, pre- 
sented to a Church by the very highest member 
of its hierarchy, would have been welcomed with 
transport ? Such, however, was the darkness 
of Greek intellect at that period, and such the 
force of prejudice, augmented and exasperated by 
the Jesuits of Constantinople, that the most deter- 
mined opposition to this and other beneficial mea- 
sures of Cyril Lucar was set on foot. He was 
hurled from his Patriarchal seat by Turkish autho- 
rity ; his person was seized ; and martyrdom became 
the lot of the highest member of the Oriental 
Church, when he sought, by means the most legi- 
timate, to feed the flock of Christ, which He has 
purchased with His oivn blood. 1 

We inquire not into the causes which rendered 
the attempt of the British and Foreign Bible So- 
ciety successful, whilst that of the Patriarch failed. 

• Whoever wishes to be better acquainted with this most interesting 
character, will do well to study the work of Smith, Vita et Martyrivm 
Cyrilli Lucaris, Patriarchce Constantinopoleos. 



118 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

i 

We proceed to give a general view of the exertions 
directed to that object. It was many years ago 
that Dr. Pinkerton conferred with the Synod of the 
Greek Church, on the subject of preparing a trans- 
lation of the Scriptures in the Romaic or modern 
Greek language. Difficulties of no formidable na- 
ture presented themselves. The measure was soon 
resolved on ; and the Archimandrite Hilarion was 
recommended as a suitable person to accomplish 
the version. Under the auspices of the Bible So- 
ciety, Hilarion was long engaged in this sacred 
undertaking ; and, though political events and other 
untoward circumstances have retarded the comple- 
tion of the work, the New Testament is already 
in wide circulation. Nor was it necessary to wait 
for the new version, in order to present the Greeks 
with the most important part of the Word of God. 
The translation of Cyril Lucar, still extant, was 
reprinted, and instantly sent off to the Levant. 
And thus have the Scriptures been introduced 
into the Oriental Church, with the sanction of its 
hierarchy. 

I consider it correct to say, that there has been 
no opposition to Scriptural circulation ; for, after 
an acquaintance with a large number of the Greek 
ecclesiastics of all ranks, I cannot recollect one 
who expressed any doubts of the legality or pro- 
priety of giving the Scriptures to the laity. It 
was reported, in the year 1828, that the Bishop 



AND THE LEVANT. 



119 



of Paros had manifested a degree of opposition ; 
but as little more was heard on the subject, we may 
conclude that his disapprobation of our proceedings 
was of transient and trifling moment. The Bishop 
of Talanta, under whose episcopal charge Athens 
has of late been placed, used to exhort his people 
at church, to study the Scriptures ; and, I believe, 
other instances of the same character might be 
cited. The sanction of the Archbishop of Smyrna 
to the introduction of the Scriptures amongst his 
people, I witnessed in the following manner. At 
a public examination of the principal school of the 
Greeks in Smyrna, in the year 1828, the prizes 
distributed amongst the boys who distinguished them- 
selves by their proficiency, were copies of the New 
Testament, sent from England. More than seventy 
of these were presented. The Archbishop was pre- 
sent, with all the pomp which distinguishes the 
prelates of the Oriental Communion ; and each 
boy, as soon as he had received the premium, in- 
stantly proceeded, with the volume in both his hands, 
and knelt before his throne, and received his epis- 
copal blessing. It was gratifying to observe the 
chaplain, and several other officers, of His Majesty's 
ship Isis, present on that occasion. 

The introduction of the Scriptures into the Greek 
Church has also generally met with cordial support 
on the part of the laity. I do not recollect to have 
met with a single Greek who ever opposed the 



120 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



measure ; and though I have heard reports of a few 
persons who ventured to express disapprobation, 
results have shown that those expressions were of no 
force whatsoever. The best method of demon- 
strating how welcome the gift of the vernacular 
Scriptures has been to the Christians of the East, 
is, to present a calculation of the number of copies, 
in whole or in part, which have been purchased in 
any given time, at a particular place. Let us ask, 
then, what number of volumes have been purchased 
at Smyrna, during the four years prior to my de- 
parture for England 1 It may perhaps, in some 
degree, increase our estimate of the success ob- 
tained, and also instruct us in the degree of advance- 
ment which Missionary labours may be making — 
whilst even our own countrymen, on the field of ex- 
ertion, may be very partially acquainted with that 
progress — if I mention the fact, that conversing, 
not long after my return to England, with an indi- 
vidual who had spent a considerable portion of that 
period in Smyrna, I ventured to propose the ques- 
tion above mentioned. The answer was, that per- 
haps 200 volumes annually might have been disposed 
of, but probably not so many. I replied 11,000 
copies of the Scriptures, in whole or part, have 
been disposed of in Smyrna, during the last four 
years ; and, with the exception of 500 distributed 
gratuitously, all were actually purchased. The 
number of copies sold at Constantinople, during the 



AND THE LEVANT, 



121 



same period of time, amounted to 21,000. When 
we call to mind that the Scriptures have now been 
on sale in those countries for many years, and that 
the pressing demands might in some degree have 
abated — and when we add to this fact, a recollection 
of the poverty aud other calamities in connexion 
with the Greek Revolution, and other causes, which 
have oppressed the inhabitants of those countries 
of late years — I cannot but think that it is truly 
surprising to find the number of volumes disposed 
of so great. By a letter from Mr. Benjamin Barker, 
the Agent of the British and Foreign Bible So- 
ciety, of so late a date as July 20th, I find that, 
in the course of four months of the year 1830, no 
less than 900 volumes had been sold in Smyrna, 
and 1498 at Constantinople. 1 

On the territory of liberated Greece equal en- 
couragement' has been given. In September 1827, 
I arrived, for the first time, in the Island of Syra. 
I had the happiness to find Mr. Brewer, an Ameri- 
can Missionary, arrived simultaneously. We had 
with us a considerable number of New Testaments 
— as far as I can recollect, about 2000. On land- 
ing, it naturally became a question, whether these 
volumes were to pay Custom-house duty. The 
resolution entered upon by the Officers of Customs 

1 It has been almost entirely owing to the exertions of my friends, the 
Rev. D. Leeves and Benjamin Barker, Esq. that this success has been 
obtained. 

G 



122 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

deserves to be recorded, as another instance, among 
so many, of the willingness of the Greeks to promote 
the circulation of the Sacred Writings. Though 
the slightest accession to their revenue, at a time 
when their very existence as a free nation was at 
stake, might have appeared of vital importance, 
they nobly determined to exact no pecuniary ad- 
„j vantage whatever from the introduction of these 
volumes into their country. Nor am I aware of 
any occasion, either at Syra or in other parts of 
Greece, when any tax has been laid on the Word 
of God. 

During my stay at iEgina, towards the close 
of 1827, and in the beginning of 1828 I sold, with 
great facility, 385 copies of the Scriptures ; and I 
doubt not that I might have disposed of a much 
larger number of the Diglotts, could I have obtained 
them. It was to me quite amusing, to observe the 
eagerness with which they were purchased. I used 
to give about twelve to an Athenian lad whom T had 
with me, and to send him every morning with them 
to the places of public resort. In a very short 
space of time he would return, bringing me the 
price of the volumes. I then gave him twelve 
others ; and he soon returned, bringing the price 
of these also. In this manner, all were soon sold. 
There appeared to be so strong a disposition to 
read the New Testament, that a respectable Greek 
expressed to me his surprise at the circumstance. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



123 



" I cannot enter a house," he said, " without finding 
the New Testament in it." 

But though my own success in the sale of the 
Scriptures appeared to me very encouraging-, that 
of Joannes Lazarides, an enlightened Greek in the 
service of Mr. Barker, was much more so. This 
young man had interested me much at Constan- 
tinople, by the eager attention which he gave to my 
religious instructions. Not satisfied with a casual 
hearing of those truths which were brought to his 
notice, he used to bring his writing-materials with 
him to my lodgings, and to note down with ac- 
curacy such observations as appeared to him of 
importance. Hence he obtained an acquaintance 
with the doctrines of Christianity, and with the 
errors of his own Church. Subsequently, in Greece, 
when he was about to proceed on a journey for the 
purpose of selling the Scriptures, I recommended 
him to keep a journal of his proceedings : and I 
subjoin 1 an accurate translation of this document, 
not only in proof the active zeal of a Greek in the 
dissemination of the Sacred Writings, but also in 
demonstration of right views of Truth embraced 
and proclaimed by one who, but a short time before, 
was totally ignorant. Since the tour described in 
this journal, he has visited various other parts on 
the same important errand, and has everywhere 



1 See the Appendix. 
G 2 



124 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

been useful. In iEgina, in the space of four days. 
he sold almost 400 copies of the New Testament. 
In Hydra, in the same space of time, he sold 500. 

The introduction of the Scriptures into Schools 
may be considered another important step towards 
diffusion of religious knowledge in the East. This 
measure can scarcely be said to have been fully 
sanctioned, till the visit of Mr. Barker to Greece, 
in the spring of 1829 : but his success in introducing 
the Scriptures into the large School of iEgina has 
given it the apparent approval of Government. 
Soon after the arrival of Count Capo d'Istria, the 
Institution just mentioned was set on foot. It is 
designed for orphan children, and contains no fewer 
than 500. Count Viaro, brother of the President, 
is Patron. I doubt not that it was with very 
considerable hesitation that Mr. Barker waited on 
Count Viaro, for the purpose of soliciting his per- 
mission to introduce the Modern- Greek Testament 
into the school. Count Viaro at once fell in with 
the proposal ; full permission was given ; and Mr. 
Barker instantly proceeded to bestow upon the 
Institution a gratuity of the New Testaments, suf- 
ficiently large to supply its wants. The Master 
and children so completely went along with the 
favourable intentions of the donor, that not merely 
were those New Testaments read on other occa- 
sions, but even, whenever the children sat down 
to their daily repasts, it was usual for one of their 



AND THE LEVANT. 



125 



number to stand up, and to read, with a loud voice, 
from the Testament of the Bible Society bestowed 
upon them. 

To attain the highest point of Scriptural circula- 
tion, it only remains that the Word of God should 
be read in churches, in the vernacular language. 
Now, even in this important respect, a beginning 
has been made ; and we may hope that, in due time, 
the example will be universally imitated. This 
commencement has had its origin in a place, per- 
haps the most signal for superstition in the Levant. 
Had I ever been asked, What do you think of the 
Island of Tino ? I should probably have answered, 
" Of all the dark places of Turkey, Tino is the most 
dark. It is there that Satan has played off some 
of his most successful stratagems, in deluding and 
destroying mankind. Tino is the last place which 
will yield to Missionary efforts." These remarks 
would have had their origin in the reports so widely 
circulated in the Archipelago, of late years, and so 
fully believed. The Virgin Mary, it was said, 
had appeared to several individuals in Tino, com- 
manding that immediate search should be instituted 
for a picture of herself, which was deposited in a 
particular part of the island. At first those intima- 
tions were disregarded, being considered the off- 
spring of ignorance and superstition. The conse- 
quence was a severe visitation of Tino by the 
plague, which swept away a considerable portion 



126 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

of the inhabitants. After this judgment, search 
was undertaken for the picture, and it was dis- 
covered. Injunctions were then given, that a 
church should be built, in which the picture might 
be deposited and worshipped. Measures were im- 
mediately taken for that purpose ; and so generally 
were these reports now believed, that the enthusiasm 
of the Greeks knew no bounds. Contributions of 
money flowed in from all quarters. If a vessel was 
overtaken at sea by a storm, it was to the Panagia 
of Tino that vows were made in case of deliverance ; 
and they were most punctually paid. The very 
pirates, before they proceeded on their marauding 
expedition, dedicated a portion of their expected 
spoil to the same object. The result has been, that 
a church has risen in the Island of Tino, which is 
the wonder of the Archipelago. It glitters afar, 
with its white pagoda-like spire : and often, when 
it comes in sight, over the water, the Greek's right- 
hand is employed in making the sign of the Cross, 
and the whole body bends towards the shrine in 
suppliant and reverential abasement. Miracles, as 
is usually credited in such cases, have been per- 
formed, and many other signs of fanaticism exhibited. 
When I visited Tino, in company with Mr. Brewer, 
so much were we struck with the extent of ignorance 
and superstition connected with this church, that 
we styled it the Juggernaut of the Archipelago. 
It is most important to hear of the Scriptures 



AND THE LEVANT. 



127 



being read in any church of Greece ; but does it 
not greatly increase the interest of the fact, that 
here first, in this island, where human sagacity 
would have judged last, after the silence of ages, 
the Word of God should sound audibly and intelligi- 
bly in several of the churches ? Decidedly, to the 
inhabitants of Tino the words are now applicable, 
He that hath ears to hear let him hear. 1 

The present circulation of the Scriptures amongst 
the Greeks is more interesting when viewed in 
connexion with other circumstances. The Greeks 
have so great a reverence for the Inspired Records, 
that they often cite them, both in public and private. 
Men of piety in our own country are ever ready 
to hail with peculiar delight any acknowledgment 
of Divine favour, or any suitable quotation of the 
Sacred Writings, in public documents. The open- 
ing clause of Lord's Nelson's despatch, announcing 
the celebrated victory of the Nile, was, for this 
reason, much admired: — " Almighty God has 
granted to His Majesty's fleet under my command, 
a complete victory." The Greeks are, in this 
respect, worthy of our imitation. Not only have 
I remarked, when amongst them, a disposition to 
ascribe national prosperity to the intervention of 
Divine Providence ; but such facts as the following 

' This pleasing occurreace took place in the year 1 829 ; as I was 
informed, by Letters from the Reverend Doctor Korck and the Reverend 
Mr. King. 



128 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



are of frequent occurrence. The official intelligence 
which announced the signal victory gained by their 
fleet off Capo d'Oro commenced with these words : 
Who is a God like unto our God? The first pro- 
clamation of Capo dTstria, issued soon after his 
arrival, had the following words for a motto : If 
God be for us, who shall be against us f One of the 
principal public orators in Greece is Tricupi, a 
gentleman alike estimable for his public and private 
virtues. The speech which he delivered at Misso- 
longhi, upon the death of Lord Byron, has often 
been quoted. I believe that the major part of his 
orations, if not all, has been founded on some pas- 
sage of the Bible. Discoursing upon the death 
of Karaiskakes, his subject was the lamentation of 
David over Saul and Jonathan. I heard him de- 
liver his speech upon the Victory of Navarino; 
and then, also, his leading remarks were wholly 
connected with a Scriptural subject. This circum- 
stance will appear the more pleasing, when it is 
remembered that Tricupi is not an ecclesiastic. He 
has filled several important offices in the Govern- 
ment of Liberated Greece ; and on the arrival of 
Capo dTstria, he was nominated Secretary of 
State. 

It is also extremely common to hear Scriptural 
expressions quoted in private. I have often been 
astonished at the accuracy with which the Ancient 
Greek of the New Testament and of the Septuagint 



AND THE LEVANT. 



129 



has been rehearsed, even when it is imperfectly 
understood. I once met with a poor Greek, ser- 
vant in a family at Smyrna, who repeated long- 
passages from the epistles of St. Paul, quite beyond 
his comprehension, much more accurately than I 
could have repeated them myself from the English 
version. 

The subjects just treated give an exhilarating 
view of the Greek Church. The Orientalists, in 
Turkey at least, have laid hold of the inestimable 
prize of God's word with so tenacious a hand that 
it may justly be questioned if any violence, external 
or internal, shall be able to wrest it from them. 
Though in some other respects there may be a 
melancholy conformity with the church of Rome, 
here there is a most glorious distinction. The Greeks 
are not guilty of the enormous crime of impeding 
the communication of divine mercy to a lost world. 
Many an alarming accusation may doubtless be 
urged against Romish apostacy. But, perhaps, the 
most dark and deadly of all its deeds is the prohibi- 
tion of the study of God's word ; since it seals and 
perpetuates every other error, and excludes, as 
much as possible all hope of amendment and refor- 
mation. If it had been in the power of some mortal 
to intercept the light of the sun in its progress from 
heaven to earth — to arrest, in mid course, the rains 
which were on their way to fertilize the ground — 
and if he had exerted a power so mighty for a pur- 



130 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



pose so disastrous, turning a fruitful world into 
barrenness, and destroying its entire population to 
gratify some sordid interest, would not such a crime 
as this be too vast to be expressed in human lan- 
guage I What, then, shall we say of a religion 
which attempts to check the free course of that 
truth which is the light and life of the immortal 
spirit ; and hence is as much superior to the light 
of the sun as eternity is to time ? God has spoken 
from heaven : the Roman- Catholic religion attempts 
to overpower the sound of His voice. God has 
given the Scriptures as an epistle from himself to 
mankind. Romanism places a seal upon the volume. 
God has commanded us to read : Romanism gives 
orders, " Read not." Thus does popery barricade, 
as it were, the very gate of paradise. It says to 
God, Hitherto shalt Thou go, and no further. It 
would exclude the Deity from his own empire, and 
despoil man of his salvation. 

Happy is it for Greece that she is not stained 
with guilt so gigantic. She neither insults the 
Deity, nor wrongs herself, by preventing the free 
use of the Scriptures. By receiving gladly the 
word of God, the Greek Church has evinced that 
it has not linked itself eternally to error. It con- 
tains within itself the principle and means of refor- 
mation. It may almost be compared to the Ethiopian 
Eunuch who was engaged in studying the Sacred 
records on his return from Jerusalem, to whom the 



$ 

AND THE LEVANT. 131 

Evangelist was sent to enlarge and correct his 
views. Who would not venture to expect the 
divine blessing on a Church which has adopted such 
a line of conduct? Who would not. venture to hope 
that here, also, the Divine Word shall prosper in 
the thing tvhereunto it is sent ? 



CHAPTER X. 



CIRCULATION OF TRACTS AND OTHER RELIGIOUS 
PUBLICATIONS. 

Character of Greek Religious Treatises— Works of the Fathers, in manuscript, 
abundant in the Greek Monasteries— Writings of Korai— Interview with 
him at Paris— Publications of Bambas— Welcome reception given to Tracts. 

The facilities afforded by the Press for communica- 
ting information have been employed, almost uni- 
versally in modern Missions. The Church Mis- 
sionary Society, as well as other kindred institutions, 
has availed itself of this advantage in the Mediter- 
ranean. It has had a printing-press in active 
operation for some years in the Island of Malta ; 
and under the superintendance of the Rev. W. 
Jowett, it has been the means of circulating a very 
large number of religious publications in various 
languages. 

The Greeks have been in the utmost need of this 
species of instruction. Works which could give 
clear views of Christian doctrine have not existed 
among them ; and the writings of a religious cha- 
racter, which were in use, were of the most super- 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE, 



133 



stitious kind. If an individual, under concern for 
his eternal interests, had recourse to the sermons, 
or Synaxaria (legends), or practical treatises which 
might fall in his way, instead of discovering and 
embracing the consolatory truth, that Christ had 
suffered all that was necessary to atone for his sins, 
he was usually led to impose upon himself the most 
rigorous self-inflictions, and to depend, in a con- 
siderable degree, on his own sufferings for an 
entrance into eternal blessedness. I remember 
meeting with an individual who, by the perusal 
of such works as these, had performed daily, for a 
course of years, thousands of " repentances ; " had 
fasted in the most self-denying manner, had given 
away in alms the pecuniary means which he pos- 
sessed, had practised many other mortifications, and, 
thus flattering himself that he had arrived at a high 
degree of sanctity, had actually attempted the per- 
formance of a miracle. 

The best works of divinity, which the Greeks have 
possessed, are the writing of the Fathers. Not only 
are printed editions to be found amongst them, but 
in the monasteries numerous manuscript copies of 
Chrysostom, Gregory, Basil, Epiphanius and others. 1 
Sometimes they are beautiful specimens of penman- 
ship ; being usually written on vellum, and probably 
of the 14th or 15th centuries. Notwithstanding the 

1 They are known by the generic name Chrysostomics (XpvtTQ(TTO[MKa,.) 



134 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



successive calamities which have visited these 
lands, I cannot but suppose, from the very large 
number of these manuscripts, which I have seen in 
various monasteries, and heard of in others, that 
if any scientific traveller had time to examine them 
with care, valuable remains of antiquity might still 
be discovered. 

But though the Greek monasteries are so abund- 
antly possessed of the divinity of the Fathers, it is 
almost entirely useless to them. Very few of the 
monks can understand Hellenic ; and though the 
name of " the divine Chrysostom " is frequently 
heard amongst them, I only recollect • a single 
monastery where I found his writings the subject of 
study. 

Other works, not indeed strictly theological, but 
of a useful character, have for some time been pub- 
lished and perused by Modern Greeks. Amongst 
these the writings of Korai and Bambas are deser- 
vedly pre-eminent. They have been of great service 
in diffusing general information and in dissipating 
error, even though they may not have diffused a 
knowledge of Christian doctrine. Korai has edited 
in Paris a very large number of the Classical Greek 
Authors, and has enriched them with copious anno- 
tations and prolegomena. In these he frequently 
cites the Sacred Writings ; thereby leading bis 
countrymen to yield them habitual attention and 
respect. Being in Paris in the autumn of 1829, on 



AND THE LEVANT. 



135 



my return from the Levant, I called on him. I was 
delighted to observe that the habit of quoting from 
the word of God entered into his familiar discourse, 
Speaking of the present condition of Greece, rescued 
as it had at length been, from the thraldom of 
Turkey, he observed, " Greece must adopt for its 
motto the language of St Paul — Forgetting the 
things which are behind, and pressing forward to 
those which are before" 

In an anonymous publication, Korai has trans- 
lated the " Letter of Three Bishops to Pope Julius 
III." once well known in our own country. Here 
he powerfully attacks many of the reigning super- 
stitions of his nation, whilst he appears to be only 
levelling his shafts against the Church of Rome. 
In the notes he even assails, pointedly, the worship 
of saints and relics, quoting from Eusebius the 
history of the martyrdom of Polycarp, and the decla- 
ration of the Smyrnsean Christians on that occasion 
— ' Neither shall we ever be able to abandon Christ, 
nor revere any other : for Him, being Son of God, 
we worship ; but the martyrs, as disciples and 
imitators of the Lord, we love, as is their due." 

The writings of Bambas are much admired amongst 
the Greeks, particularly his works on Ethics and 
Rhetoric. I have had the happiness of being inti- 
mately acquainted with this very estimable man, 
and have conceived a high opinion of him. A note 
which I received from him, prior to my departure 



136 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

from the Island of Ithaca, I subjoin in the Appen- 
dix. It will charm the classical scholar by the 
purity of its style, and shew him how little removed 
is the modern language from its ancient prototype : 
and it will delight the Christian, not merely by the 
pious sentiments which are expressed, but by the 
unction and affection with which they are accom- 
panied. I am happy to say that Bambas is now at 
the head of the University of Corfu. 

After so very long an absence of Christian in- 
struction from the East, we venture to esteem it 
another hopeful symptom, that now an immense 
multitude of Publications have been introduced into 
those countries, giving a clear and Scriptural an- 
swer to the question — What must I do to be saved ? 
It can by no person be deemed a trivial circum- 
stance, that the means of attaining the knowledge 
of Salvation have been communicated to the Greek 
population. The extent to which this branch of 
Missionary labour has been carried has often asto- 
nished me. I question if there be any books at 
present so common in Greece as our Missionary 
Publications. Sometimes I have trembled at the 
quantity of letter-press which was pouring into 
different parts of the Turkish Empire : I have been 
ready to suppose that such efforts as these must 
awaken the suspicions and arouse the opposition 
of the Greek Church. But we have to add this 
fact, also, to the encouragements of Missionary 



AND THE LEVANT. 



137 



labour which are given us, that no resistance has 
ever been offered — not the slightest attempt, at least 
openly, ever made — to check the free circulation 
of our Tracts ; no prohibition, no anathema, ever 
levelled against them. 

Various causes prevent or retard the benefit 
of these Works. A portion of the lower orders is 
either unable to read ; or so much occupied in the 
concerns of life, that they find no time or inclina- 
tion to peruse them. Nor has a reading spirit been 
disseminated amongst persons of a higher rank, 
to the extent which we observe in this country. 
Hence, it is far from an easy task to accomodate 
a Work on Religion to the taste and feeling of 
Greeks, so far as to arrest their attention and inte- 
rest. But, notwithstanding the discouragements 
connected with this branch of instruction, I am 
persuaded that some useful effect has already been 
produced. Primers, and other Elementary Works, 
have been of great service in schools ; imparting to 
children not merely the rudiments of language, but 
conveying religious instruction which will not easily 
be forgotten ; and not a few examples might be 
brought forward, of individuals who, apparently, 
have derived essential benefit from the perusal 
of different Works. 



CHAPTER XI. 



EDUCATION, AND SCHOOLS. 

Melancholy condition of Greek Schools— Absurd mode of instruction by 
the ancient language — The children bastinadoed, by way of punishment 
• — Thirst for education — Introduction of the system of Mutual Instruction 
—Dr. Korck's nourishing School at Syra— Diligence and animation of the 
children— A Building erected for the School, at the expense of the inha- 
bitants—Similar Schools set on foot in other Islands — Testimony to the 
labours of Dr. Korck, from the Courier de Smyrne — Subsequent disap- 
pointment. 

No part of Missionary effort appears to commend 
itself more universally to approbation, than the 
education of youth ; and in no part of the world 
may more auspicious consequences be anticipated, 
from its due exercise, than in the Levant. It will 
be proper to offer some remarks in regard to the 
previous state of intellect in those countries ; and 
afterwards to take a view of its present cultivation, 
and of the prospects of its future developement. 

I do not remember to have visited any part of the 
East in which I did not observe Institutions dig- 
nified with the name of School : but, after a very 
cursory inspection, the conviction was produced — 
this term is ill applied. On entering the apartment 
employed for such a purpose, it was usual to find a 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 139 



number of children, often of very squalid appear- 
ance, seated, each on his little rug, in oriental style, 
and acknowledging as preceptor an individual whose 
attainments were far from competent to the office 
which he had assumed. The child had first of all a 
mvaKihov, writing-table, placed in his hands, on which 
were written the letters of the Alphabet. As soon 
as sufficient acquaintance was obtained with these 
elements of language, the absurd method of im- 
parting, or rather perplexing, instruction, by means 
of Ancient Greek, was introduced. The sentence, 

— " Holy God, Holy and Mighty, Holy and Eter- 
nal God, have mercy upon us ! " was inscribed 
on the writing-table, and occupied the child's at- 
tention. 1 When this sentence was read with suffi- 
cient freedom, the Psalter of the Septuagint was 
placed in his hands ; and he was condemned to toil 
over it, often for three or more years, without a 
hope of any other result than that of reading what 
he could not comprehend. This pernicious custom, 
of teaching children to read by means of obsolete 
languages, is universal in the Levant. The Greek 

1 This address to the Deity, which is frequent amongst the Greeks, and 
which possesses a species of rhythm, as the moderns pronounce it, I 
observed inscribed on a stone at Mistra, near Sparta, in the following 
manner : 

.... coeeocAnoc 

OCAriOCA©A 

EAEHCONHMAC + 



140 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

child has been condemned to labour upon the ancient 
Greek, the Armenian upon Ancient Armenian, the 
Turk upon Arabic, the Jew upon Hebrew. The 
natural effect has been, to render the acquisition 
of knowledge odious and difficult, and to leave by 
far the larger portion of the Levantine population, 
for ages, in a state of semi-barbarism. Nor was 
any suavity of manner employed, on the part of the 
schoolmaster, to obviate the difficulties which ab- 
surdity of system presented. The law of coercion 
is applied, in Turkey, to all ages and to all circum- 
stances. The instrument for inflicting the punish- 
ment of the bastinado, which by the Greeks is named 
<pd\xyyx;, and which is often seen in the court-yard 
of the Turkish Pashas, was an appendage of Greek 
schools. Whenever an offence was perpetrated, the 
little delinquent was thrown upon his back, his legs 
were elevated upon the bar of punishment, and 
blows of considerable force applied to the soles 
of his feet. I once happened to enter the large 
School of the Armenians, at Smyrna, when one 
of the boys was just arriving at the very crisis 
of punishment. The master was raising his arm, 
and in another second, infliction would have ensued. 
My unexpected entrance disconcerted the whole 
project. The rod of punishment instantly fell ; 
the poor boy escaped from his perilous situation ; 
and the master appeared perfectly ashamed of the 
position in which I found him. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



141 



It is a surprising fact, that under circumstances 
so discouraging, a large portion, even of the lower 
orders, were competent to read. I have heard it 
estimated, that no less than two-thirds of the popu- 
lation of liberated Greece had attained the art; 
and, without vouching for the accuracy of such 
a statement, I can assert, that, wherever I have 
met with Greeks, I have always found a conside- 
rable number who could read the books which were 
presented to them. 

One of the earliest effects of the Revolution has 
been, a very promising reformation of the mode 
of public instruction. The thirst for knowledge 
which existed during my visit to Greece was extra- 
ordinary. The ear was perpetually saluted by the 
word npoKovv], which they employ to signify educa- 
tional improvement ; and, to express myself in the 
language of a friend, " there was quite a fever for 
education." The absurdity of the old system, which 
had been pursued, for the most part, by the priests, 
was universally acknowledged, and became a fre- 
quent topic of sarcasm and amusement. The system 
of Mutual Instruction, which has been so success- 
fully employed in this country by Bell and Lancaster, 
was welcomed with delight ; and, as soon as intro- 
duced, appeared to have admirable success. A very 
interesting school of this description was set on foot 
at Tripolitza, in a Turkish mosque, during the pe- 
riod which intervened between the capture of that 



142 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



city by the Greeks and its re-capture by Ibrahim 
Pasha. In Syra, in the year 1827, I found several 
small schools on this system, which appeared to pro- 
ceed very usefully; and at Napoli di Romania a 
very flourishing one existed. 

The Greek government has uniformly patronised 
this method of public education. They have been 
solicitous to establish public free schools of this 
nature, in all directions ; and I understood that it 
was their intention to leave no town, village, or 
hamlet, in the whole of their territory, without 
these means of acquiring elemental knowledge. 
Should these designs be realized, the entire popu- 
lation of Greece will, as a whole, be placed in 
a state of mental cultivation which few other coun- 
tries possess. It may be true of Greece, before 
it is true of Great Britain, that " every poor 
child within its confines can read the Word of 
God." 

One of the most flourishing schools in Greece 
was that under the direction of Dr. Korck, at Syra. 
It was established by Mr. Brewer, an American 
Missionary, with whom I have enjoyed much de- 
lightful intercourse. This gentleman commenced 
the undertaking in the year 1827, little expecting 
the magnitude and importance which the institution 
was destined to assume. He placed at its head 
a young man who had been in my own service 
for about eighteen months, and who had manifested 



AND THE LEVANT. 143 

an ardent desire for the acquisition of knowledge. 
He was of a respectable family in Zagora, which 
had been reduced to great depression during the 
distresses of the Greek revolution. When I was 
in Ithaca, he was servant to the bishop of the 
island; and, during the intervals of menial duty, 
diligently frequented an Ancient Greek school, and 
laboured to obtain all possible acquaintance with 
the classics of his country. Whilst with me, he 
seemed as eager to acquire religious knowledge 
as other species of information ; and I had the 
happiness to observe in him a decided reception 
of the doctrines of Christianity, such as the Scrip- 
tures declare them. His moral character was also 
such, that, during the whole period of his being 
in my service, I had never any cause to be dis- 
satisfied with him. Under his direction, the school 
proceeded so successfully, that when Dr. Korck, 
who was connected with the Church Missionary 
Society, visited the island in the year 1828, he 
considered that he could not employ himself more 
usefully than by undertaking the superintendence 
of it. I revisited Syra in the summer of the same 
year, and found the school flourishing beyond all 
expectation. A spirit of diligence characterized 
the children, which I thought I had no where else 
observed. Dr. Korck assured me, that such was 
the eagerness of the children to learn, that at 
times he was obliged to repress it, lest it might 



144 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



prove injurious to their health. Generally, they 
committed to memory larger portions of the Scrip- 
tures than he had assigned them. One boy actually 
mandated three thousand lines of the New Tes- 
tament in a single week. An intense interest ap- 
peared to engage all present. The little monitors 
issued the word of command with an animation, 
and in classical language, which were delightfully 
amusing ; and it seemed, universally, as though the 
pursuit of knowledge, generally a toil and torment 
to children, had become, in this instance, their 
most charming occupation. 

The exhibition of such a school as this to the 
notice of the large population of Syra produced 
a most happy sensation. They had not only the 
good sense to appreciate the advantages of this 
mode of instruction, but they resolved to co-operate 
for its perpetuity. Accordingly, they determined 
to erect a building sufficiently capacious for so 
large a number of children. Funds were raised 
adequate to the undertaking ; and very shortly after 
I left the island, in the same year, the edifice 
was completed, and employed for the intended ob- 
ject. At one period, there were no less than 550 
Greek children, of whom a large number were 
girls, under the superintendence of Dr. Korck. 

How great the confidence which was manifested 
by the Greeks towards Dr. Korck, may be ima- 
gined by this fact. Count Metaxas, the Governor 



AND THE LEVANT. 



145 



of Syra and the circumjacent Cyclades, requested, 
as a favour, that he would establish similar schools 
in the other islands of his jurisdiction. Accord- 
ingly, Dr. Korck accompanied the Governor in 
his boat, and set on foot institutions of the same 
character in Myeono, in Tino, and in Andro. The 
next request was, that he would prepare young 
men to fill the office of schoolmasters. Young 
men were sent him for that purpose : and Dr. 
Korck had an excellent opportunity presented him 
of imparting to them such ideas as were likely to 
prove beneficial to the children who would fall 
under their care. The following extract from the 
Courier de Smryne, a public journal published, 
as the name imports, at Smyrna, demonstrates 
a disposition to favour the proceedings of Dr. 
Korck, which could scarcely have been expected. 

" Syra : 11th of May. — A Greek priest, who 
makes it his practice to prejudice the common 
people against those who are endeavouring to dif- 
fuse knowledge, having been exiled on this account 
from Argos, lately arrived here. His first care 
was, to mount the pulpit, and to give himself very 
indecent liberties against the Public Schools under 
the direction of Dr. Korck, a German — a man 
worthy, in all respects, of public esteem and con- 
fidence ; and whom we cannot sufficiently extol, for 
the attention and pains which he lavishes, without 
fee or reward, on the children whose instruction 

H 



146 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

he has undertaken. The most respectable inha- 
bitants of Syra having remonstrated with this priest 
on his conduct, and pressed him to state his mo- 
tives, he answered, that he could give no explicit 
answer, until he had consulted the bishop. It 
may be hence conjectured, that the bishop was no 
stranger to the design of discrediting the Public 
Schools, and the priest may be considered as but 
an instrument for that end. He has, however, 
been exiled by the Commissioner Extraordinary ; 
though it were to be desired, that he had been 
legally arraigned before the Tribunals, as well for 
the sake of a salutary example, as to make that 
reparation to Dr. Korck which was due to him." 

We regret to state, that our expectations from 
this school have, in part, been frustrated. The 
machinations of foes prevailed so far, that an at- 
tempt was made last year, 1830, to introduce 
picture- worship amongst the school regulations. 
Hence Dr. Korck was compelled to withdraw 
from the institution, but not till he had reason 
to hope that much benefit had resulted from his 
labours. 

These facts present us with pleasing anticipations 
in regard to the future state of Greece. The in- 
tellect which has gained such ancient and immortal 
celebrity has for ages been dormant. Successive 
generations of Greeks have been exercising no more 
than animal functions. But, at length, a mo- 



AND THE LEVANT. 147 

mentous revolution has been effected. The spirit 
which so long had been enslaved, in an enslaved 
body, has heard the cry — the ancient cry — of Li- 
berty. It has partaken of the freedom which has 
been communicated to the soil and to its inhabi- 
tants. It has started from its protracted slumber. 
It has risen from its dark sepulchre. It has begun 
to put forth its ancient energies: and — delightful 
to contemplate ! — it is saluted, on its new birth, 
by Christian Truth. It is cherished, strengthened — 
and will, we trust, be matured — by the lessons of a 
spiritual and sanctifying Religion. It is rising 
now — not to a Pagan eminence — but to a Christian 
altitude. And we may rejoice in the hope, that 
the following poetic description will be consonant 
with truth. 

No proud Pantheon, flaming in the sun, 

To claim for many gods that due to One ; 

No scene of tranquil grove, and bubbling stream, 

For vain Philosophy to dream— and dream, 

Till Reason shews a maze without a clue, 

And Truth seems false, and Falsehood's self seems true. 

Oh no !— upon thy temples, gladly bright, 

The Truth reveaPd sheds down its living light. 

Thine is no champion badge of Pagan shame ; 

But that best gift— the Cross of Him, who came 

To lift the guilty spirit from the sod, 

And point from earth to Heaven, from man to God. 

Byzantium, Cambridge Prize Poem. 



H 2 



CHAPTER XII. 

PUBLIC PREACHING IN GREECE. 

Sermons in the Church of the Panagia, in ^Egina— Attendance of persons 
of distinction — Singular expressions of feeling — Sermon in Hydra — De* 
scription of that island— Hospitality and friendship of Greeks — Appearance 
of the congregation in the " Church of the Monastery" — Feelings of the 
Author— Subject of the Sermon, derived from the passion for liberty — 
Atrocious character of some of the Hydriotes— Massacre of three hun- 
dred Turkish slaves— Sermon in the Church of Megaspelaion, with a 
description ©f that Monastery. 

The communication of religious truth, by every 
means which can be employed, is important; but 
that mode of proclaiming it which is usually desig- 
nated preaching, is perhaps of more importance 
than any other. When I left my native country, I 
had scarcely ventured to anticipate that opportuni- 
ties of this description would be afforded me in 
Greece : but I met with occasions of the kind, 
which I cherish amongst my fondest recollections, 
and which will, I trust, not be deemed wholly 
unworthy of notice. During my interesting sojourn 
in iEgina, in the winter of 1827-28, I had frequent 
conversations on Religion with influential persons. 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE, 149 

In consequence of these discussions, I once observed 
to some of them, that it would yield me peculiar 
pleasure if I had an opportunity of addressing" them 
in a connected discourse. I pointed out some of the 
advantages of such a method ; and, more especially, 
expressed my wish to discourse upon the Evidences 
of Christianity. To this suggestion so much defe- 
rence was paid, that it instantly became matter of 
inquiry, what place would be most suitable for the 
purpose. When I first started the proposal, I had 
not the most distant conception that it would lead to 
the public proclamation of the truth in Greek 
churches. I had simply expected to see some of my 
friends assembled in a house sufficiently commodious 
for the pupose, and then to unfold my opinions : 
but, to my astonishment and delight, it was proposed 
that I should address them in the principal church ; 
and, without the least difficulty, permission to that 
effect was obtained from the President of the Legis- 
lative Body. Thus was I left at perfect liberty to 
preach in the church of the Penagia, as often as I 
thought proper ; and, subsequently, in various other 
churches. Indeed, under the peculiar circumstances 
of the times, I question if any church in Liberated 
Greece would have been denied me. 

It was in the same building that the Legislative 
Body held its Sessions ; and when I preached in the 
afternoon, I generally had a large number of the 
Senators to hear me. I have observed amongst my 



150 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

auditors, Mavrocordato, Tricupi and his lady, Theo- 
philus, formerly professor at Haivali, Pharmakides, 
and many other persons of distinction. After one 
of my discourses, a cousin of Kolokotroni observed, 
" To-day, we have had all the ltyoy%ovTe$ (the prin- 
cipal persons) of the Peloponnesus at church." 

I did not think it wise to employ the permission 
given me too often. I therefore limited myself to 
four addresses in iEgina. The three first were 
almost entirely directed to the object of establishing- 
the truth of Christianity ; and in the last, I took up 
some of the leading doctrines of Religion, and made 
a pointed application of them. The former subject 
was become extremely needful, in consequence of 
the rapid growth of infidelity amongst the higher 
classes, and the entire want of any means to coun- 
teract it. The latter subject is, at all times, and in 
all places, the principal medium of Ministerial and 
Missionary labour ; and I was delighted to have an 
opportunity of employing it, under such interesting 
circumstances. The apparent effect was consider- 
able. Close attention was given during the dis- 
courses ; and, after their termination, warm appro- 
bation expressed. During one of my addresses, I 
was led to express a sentiment to this effect : ■* May 
the Oriental Church, my Greek friends, soon re- 
cover its ancient splendor ! May it soon have men 
not inferior to Chrysostom, to Basil, and to Gre- 
gory ! " This triad of names has an effect almost 



AND THE LEVANT. 



151 



electric on Greek hearts. No sooner had the words 
been uttered, than I found my ears saluted by an 
universal and reiterated exclamation of " Amen ! " 
which came rushing upon me from all parts of the 
assembly. I am not aware that this custom is 
habitual to the Greeks : I have not witnessed it on 
other occasions. I conclude that it was the genuine 
feelings of their hearts which gave this unwonted 
utterance to their lips. 

I allude not, at present, to any effects produced 
upon individuals ; but amongst the general results 
which appeared most encouraging, I number what 
happened after my last sermon. One of the 
Deputies for Candia, and several other friends, 
met me at the door of the church ; and, evincing 
the impression produced on their minds, by calling 
my sermon ovpdvios Xoyoq, a heavenly speech, entreated 
me to publish it in the Government Journal. This 
request they repeated on other occasions ; but cir- 
cumstances prevented my compliance. 

I mention one other occurrence, in connexion 
with my preaching in iEgina. It is in itself trivial, 
but may contribute to shew the great freedom 
of action which was conceded me in Greece. There 
had formerly been no pulpit in the Church of the 
Panagia, as is not unfrequently the case in Greek 
churches : I therefore delivered my addresses from 
the Bishop's throne. But shortly before the arrival 
of Capo d'Istria, a pulpit was erected, for the 



152 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

express purpose of his hearing an address of con- 
gratulation on his entrance upon office. The first 
sermon delivered from this pulpit was the sermon 
of an English Missionary. 

I was called upon to preach in the Island of 
Hydra, under circumstances of still greater interest. 
This island, in its external appearance, has nothing 
which is calculated to invite attention. A barren 
rock, stretching through the waves, unadorned by 
forests, and unenlivened by verdure, scarcely tempts 
the voyager to inquire its name as he passes within 
sight of its shores ; nor has it any classical recol- 
lections to give it celebrity. But it has become, in 
modern times, one of the most important places in 
the Archipelago; and, in its efforts for Greek 
independence, it almost claims pre-eminence. 

The circumstances of few countries, except Tur- 
key, could have given origin to such a town, as 
that which has been constructed on this island. 
Enter its little harbour, and cast your eye upward, 
and you are astonished and delighted at the am- 
phitheatrical spectacle of snow-white dwellings, 
rising in succession above one another, from the 
water's edge up towards the crest of the rock. 
When gazing on this rock-built city in the stillness 
of the evening, it appeared to me one of the most 
striking objects on which my eye ever rested. And 
all this population of 20,000 is planted upon an 
islet, which possesses not a single fountain of water. 



AND THE LEVANT, 



153 



Cistern water is the only dependence of the Hy- 
driotes; and when that fails, they must procure 
supplies from the opposite coast. But even this 
barren crag was a partial retreat from Turkish 
oppression: it furnished a home undisturbed by 
Mussulman violence. The occasional visit of the 
Capitan Pasha, to receive the tribute which was 
due to the Porte, was almost the only annoyance 
to which Hydra was subject. So much freedom, 
indeed, was enjoyed on this island, that the Hy- 
driotes taunt their brethren, by the boast, that 
they joined the standard of revolt not for any 
liberty which they might gain for themselves, but 
in order to assist in conferring that benefit on 
others. 

When I paid my second visit to Hydra, I was 
received with much hospitality by those friends 
whose acquaintance I had previously formed. It 
was indeed the strict season of Lent, when absti- 
nence of a very rigorous order prevails universally ; 
and, amongst other tokens of it, I actually observed 
that a dish of snails was common on the table to 
which I was welcomed. But, notwithstanding the 
obedience which was thus rendered to the laws 
of the Church, I ever found myself a privileged 
person, both here and elsewhere ; and every effort 
was made to provide me with such food as was 
deemed agreeable. It is my duty and my pleasure 
to record the kindness and friendship which I have 
H 5 



154 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

uniformly received amongst the Greeks. I can 
scarcely recal an instance of conduct which was 
otherwise than obliging and courteous. I delight 
to think of hours spent in social intercourse of the 
most affectionate character; when, without an in- 
dividual near me who could speak my native lan- 
guage, I have been walking or riding with Greeks 
over the hills and plains of their country ; have 
been traversing with them the waves which wash 
their shores ; or have been seated with them in 
their domestic retirements, sometimes conversing 
on their renowned ancestors, sometimes on their 
present Revolution, but oftener discusssing with 
them questions of eternal interest, and subjects 
which throw into the shade all the glories of Greece 
and of the world. 

Soon after my arrival in Hydra, my friends pro- 
posed that I should preach to them. Of course, 
I very readily assented, provided permission could 
be obtained. One of their number waited, in con- 
sequence, upon Lazarus Conduriotti, at that time 
the most influential person in the island, and ob- 
tained his acquiescence. In furtherance of the 
plan, it was judged most expedient that I should 
address the Hydriotes, not only in the " Church 
of the Monastery," the principal edifice of the kind 
in the island, but also during the time of their 
Liturgy, or Divine Service. The most regular 
and solemn service of the Greeks is the Liturgy 



AND THE LEVANT. 



155 



of St. Chrysostom, which is recited, or rather 
chaunted, according to the method peculiar to 
themselves, on Sundays and Festival-days. When 
a sermon is preached, which very rarely is the 
case, it follows the Liturgy. I was invited, 
therefore to preach to the Hydriotes precisely as 
any Hierokerux Qupoicvjpv£) of their own would 
have done. 

Nor was this the only species of liberality which 
was shewn me. When I intimated my wish not 
to enter the church until the very time of the 
sermon, and consequently to avoid any participation 
in the previous service, even to this proposal no 
objection was raised. 

The Liturgy of the Greeks usually commences 
early in the morning. Between the hours of four 
and five, their churches are crowded ; and at six, 
or soon afterwards, the congregation is dissolved. 
It was about six that I was summoned to perform 
my duty, and to force my way to the pulpit. To 
arrive at that station was indeed a work of some 
difficulty ; for the church was so densely crowded, 
that I could scarcely find entrance. When, at 
length, I gained the pulpit, and was at liberty to look 
around, a spectacle of the most striking character 
burst upon my eye : I saw before me a compact 
mass of human beings, compressed together in a 
manner which it would not be easy to describe. The 
principle of curiosity had naturally attracted an 



156 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

immense concourse. Even around the outside of the 
church I had many auditors. 

The appearance of a Greek audience differs to- 
tally from that of an English one. No pews, or 
forms, allow the persons present to sit; but the 
principal part of the congregation were in a stand- 
ing posture. In England, females most frequently 
compose the largest portion of the assembly, but 
here men only were visible. The women, indeed, 
in considerable numbers, were present ; but they 
were in a gallery, concealed, as usual, behind that 
species of lattice-work which is styled in the Le- 
vant, " a jealousy window." The costume of the 
persons convened was also a singular object. Many 
wore the Albanian dress — the shaggy capote, the 
white kilt, the red scullcap, and the belt, with 
its unfailing accompaniment, yataghan and pistols. 
Others wore the dress which is peculiar to Hydra; 
for most of the islands in the Archipelago have a 
dress peculiar to themselves. In the direction of 
the altar, called, by the Greeks, the Holy Table, 
I observed a large number of Ecclesiastics, habited, 
as usual, in the gaudy robes in which they celebrate 
the Liturgy. One of their number was conspicuous, 
seated in solemn state, a pastoral staff in his hand, 
and venerable, with a long and flowing beard. He 
was the Hegoumenos, or Prior of the Monastery, 
and had exercised the priestly office, as he informed 
me, no less than fifty years, in the island. The in- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



157 



terest of the scene was augmented by the vast mul- 
titude of pictures of Saints, with which, as usual, 
the eastern part of the church was adorned, and 
which are the object of Greek worship : by the im- 
mense number of tapers and lamps burning on every 
side, as if in mockery of the sun ; and by the odour 
of the incense, which filled the whole edifice. In 
such a scene was an English Missionary called upon 
to unfold the truths of Religion — under such cir- 
cumstances was the grace given him to preach, in 
Hydra, the unsearchable riches of Christ. Is it 
surprising, that, at this moment, he felt himself one 
of the most favoured of mortals ? and that, though 
sensible of the responsibility and the difficulty de- 
volving upon him, he still had feelings of exultation, 
when he considered, that he was permitted, almost 
on Apostolic ground, and almost in Apostolic lan- 
guage, to declare truth, which, he had reason to 
fear, had for ages been either most imperfectly 
known or entirely forgotten 1 

It was not merely by what I said, or what I did, 
that I preached on such occasions; but, also, by 
what I left unsaid, and left undone. The Greek 
preachers, as soon as they arrive in the pulpit, 
turn to the pictures, and make the sign of the 
Cross towards them. I made no cross ; I bowed 
to no pictures ; I addressed no prayer to Saints. 
I offered up a short extempore prayer to God, in 
the name of Christ, imploring His blessing. The 



158 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

Greek preachers fail not to introduce many obser- 
vations, and often the most excessive encomiums, 
on the Virgin Mary ; but I endeavoured to act in 
conformity with the Apostolic resolution — I, bre- 
thren, when I came unto you, determined to know 
nothing among you, save Jesus CJwist, and Him 
crucified. Hence, the absence of what otherwise 
never failed to occur occasioned notice. " He 
does not make his Cross." — " Now you have 
preached so much about Jesus Christ, why not 
about the Virgin Mary 1 " — These, and similar re- 
marks, were frequent. The latter was made to 
me in iEgina, by the old Bey of Maina, Petro 
Mavromichali. 

A capital subject of discourse was suggested to 
me, by the feeling of the times. The word 'EXevOepta, 
" Liberty," appeared to have regained its ancient 
influence, in a land where once it was the most 
valued of expressions. Talk even to a Modern 
Greek of itevdepta; and, amidst all his debasement, 
his feelings are touched, and his attention is gained. 
Those know best what liberty is, who have known, 
first, what slavery is. I recollect, that in one of my 
sermons at iEgina, on making allusion to Greece 
as the birth-place of liberty, I observed the tears 
rush instantaneously into the eyes of a friend who 
stood near me. In Hydra these feelings were in 
most lively exercise. No where had the cry Z-fro> % 
*EXev6ep!a "Liberty for ever!" been raised with 



AND THE LEVANT. 



159 



greater transport, even though they had come much 
less in contact with Turkish oppression, than many 
of their brethren. Whilst ideas of this kind were 
so prevalent, and feelings of this nature so lively, 
I could not find a subject of discourse more appro- 
priate than that which I selected on that occasion: — 
If the Son shall make you free, ye shall be free 
indeed. 

To one circumstance, in connexion with this ser- 
mon, I must still allude : — it is an illustration of the 
extent of Divine Mercy, even to those who are 
most undeserving of it. There were persons amongst 
my hearers, who had perpetrated the most reckless 
deeds which human beings can commit. The pistols 
and yataghans which appeared in their belts were 
not the ornament of a parade ground, or the simple 
decorations of their persons, but instruments which 
had fatally exercised their destructive qualities. 
How often had death followed the flash of those 
pistols ! How copious had been the effusion of 
blood, at the point of those yataghans ! 

One of the most atrocious scenes of this nature 
had been exhibited in Hydra, about two years 
before my arrival. Three hundred Turkish slaves 
were held in confinement, and had already suffered 
all the agony which an imprisonment under such 
irritating circumstances was calculated to inflict. 
A report reached the Hydriotes of the destruction 
of one of their brigs of war in the Bay of Vatika : 



160 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

this was a true report, but a false one was coupled 
with it, viz. that a Turkish slave on board the vessel 
had fired the powder magazine, and thus destroyed 
her. No sooner did this news gain currency, than 
the populace became ungovernable. To speak a 
calm to a tempest of the ocean would have been as 
easy, as to still their tumultuous passions. They 
rushed to the prison in which those unhappy men 
were confined. They opened their prison-doors. 
What a spectacle must have met the eyes of these 
devoted Turks ! Doubtless, during the tedium and 
the sorrows of their prison-house, they had often 
cast a lingering thought upon their native home, in 
the mountains of Albania, on the banks of the Nile, 
or on the confines of Persia. They had thought, 
and wept as they thought, of that wife who was 
now widowed by their absence, and of those infants 
who were become, by their imprisonment, orphans. 
How bitterly did they rue the day, when they joined 
the tumultuous hair ah, at the command of their 
Sultan, to march against the Giaour! But, how- 
ever agonizing those emotions, there was still one 
feeling of a joyous nature, which they had ventured 
to cherish. They had refused to expel hope from 
their breast. They had dared to hope, that yet 
their sufferings would terminate, and that again 
they would be restored to liberty and to enjoyment. 
Now, however, at the fatal moment, when their 
prison-doors were opened, and the eyes which 



AND THE LEVANT. 161 

beamed with fury presented themselves to their 
view, we may be certain, 

" Hope with'ring fled, and Mercy sigh'd Farewell ! " 

Time indeed had they none, to analyze the feelings 
which agitated them. They were hurried away to 
the market-place ; the yataghans of Hydra were 
unsheathed ; and they soon found new sheaths in 
human bosoms. And Omar fell dead, and Hassan 
fell dead, and Mustapha fell dead ; — whatever the 
name or the quality of these Mussulmans, they all 
fell dead upon that fatal spot. The piazza was de- 
luged with their blood : their corpses were thrown 
into the harbour ; and the waves which washed the 
shores of Hydra were crimsoned with their gore. 

What language could be addressed to men who 
were stained with crimes of such a character ? 
Human justice could have recommended, could 
have discovered, no mercy for them. Blood must 
have been rendered for blood ; life given for life. 
May it not then be regarded as another example 
of that divine compassion which can extend its 
influence as far as human depravity can extend its 
guilt, that to men like these an offer of free pardon 
should be presented ? No Minister, or Missionary, 
was sent to Hydra with denunciations of unmiti- 
gated vengeance ; but it was alike my duty and my 
happiness to unfold the revelation of divine love. 
The purport of my discourse was calculated to teach 



162 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

these sanguinary Islanders, that even though the 
blood of the 300, like the blood of righteous Abel, 
invoked the vengeance of Heaven upon their spirits, 
there was a blood of sprinkling, which speaketh 
better things than the blood of Abel — that the blood 
of Jesus Christ cleanseth from all sin — that the 
most guilty amongst them was not so guilty as to 
render the language inapplicable to him, Come now, 
and let us reason together, saith the Lord ; though 
your sins be as scarlet, they shall be as white as 
snow; though they be red like crimson, they shall be 
as wool; — in a word, that, through the merit at- 
tached to Christ's atonement, they might ascend 
from the rock of Hydra, still reeking with the 
blood of those whom they had slain, up to the very 
heaven of heavens, and bear an eternal part in 
the grateful anthem of the redeemed : — Unto Him 
that loved us, and washed us from our sins in His 
own blood — to Him be glory and dominion, for ever 
and ever. 

It was generally by permission of the laity that 
I occupied the Greek pulpits. The priesthood was 
held in extremely low estimation during the Revo- 
lution, and they did not appear to have the com- 
mand of their own churches. Hence, when per- 
mission was given me to preach, it was usual for 
the General, or Civil Governor, whatever might 
be his title, to send orders to the priests of the church 
— ' ' The English Teacher, (or Doctor, Ai&«ar#caXo$) 



AND THE LEVANT. 



163 



will preach at such a time." To these directions 
they never failed to return a most respectful an- 
swer — e Op;o-/>toVa?, " Your pleasure." It might na- 
turally be questioned, whether the priests were as 
friendly, under these circumstances, as appearances 
represented them; and whether, if left entirely to 
themselves, they would have permitted me to preach. 
As a proof, however, that the very clergy were in 
a considerable degree free from the influence of pre- 
judice, I shall mention another opportunity of pub- 
lic preaching which was afforded me, in which I was 
indebted for that instance of liberality exclusively 
to priests and monks. During my tour in the Mo- 
rea, in the spring of 1828, I visited the Monastery 
of Megaspelaion. No monastery in the Morea is 
so large, or so celebrated. Much of the veneration 
which is paid it, arises from its possession of a pic- 
ture of the Virgin Mary, which is believed to have 
been the work of the Evangelist Luke. The Greeks 
as well as the Latins, have adopted the idea, that 
Luke was an artist ; and they imagine that he left 
three pictures of the Holy Virgin. One of these, 
they assert, is the picture at Megaspelaion. Another 
is to be met with in Candia. The third exists in 
some part of Asia Minor. 

This idea is so universal amongst the Greeks, 
that, long before I visited Megaspelaion, I often 
found a very common argument in favour of picture- 
worship derived from this circumstance. " How 



164 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

can you question the propriety of this practice ? " 
was their language. " Go to Megaspelaion ; and 
you will there see the very picture of the Panagia, 
which St. Luke has left us." Such a notion 
naturally allures a very large number of visitants 
to the monastery. They resort thither expressly to 
worship the picture. During the Revolutionary 
war, the strength of the situation had also attracted 
a large number of refugees. It was an impregnable 
fortress, which defied Ibrahim Pasha's efforts, though 
he twice made attempts upon it. 

The approach to Megaspelaion, from Kalavrita, 
is along a deep defile, with a river flowing through 
it. On both sides, the banks rise precipitously: 
they are covered with fine forest scenery, and are 
of mountainous elevation. After travelling up the 
ravine for about an hour, the monastery presents 
itself to view, at a considerable elevation on the 
right hand. It is, as the name imports, in reality, 
a large cavern ; but buildings of some size have 
been erected in front, in order to render the resi- 
dence more commodious and extensive. A stupen- 
dous precipice, four or five hundred feet in height, 
impends far over the monastery : and when I was 
there, two towers were situated on the crest of this 
rock, in order to complete the defence of the posi- 
tion. A solitary piece of timber, which was all 
that remained of a bridge, enabled us to pass over, 
not without danger, to that side of the roaring 



AND THE LEVANT. 



165 



stream on which the monastery was built. Our 
horses had to proceed to a considerable distance, to 
reach a bridge on which they could cross with safety. 
The ascent from the river is an extremely steep 
acclivity, and not a little fatiguing. On gaining 
the monastery, we found several of the clerical 
monks (UpofAovaxoi) seated at the door, and appearing 
to exercise a duty like that of sentinels. They 
received me with great kindness and hospitality, 
conducted me around every thing which was deemed 
curious and interesting, and welcomed me to the 
best cheer their monastery afforded. But what 
excited my greatest interest in this remarkable 
place, and the reason why I give this lengthened 
detail, to my great surprise and delight, the very 
monks of Megaspelaion invited me to preach in 
their church on the ensuing morning. The proposal 
was, of course, readily embraced : and accordingly, 
the next morning, I found myself in the pulpit 
of the Church of Megaspelaion, with about a 
hundred monks before me, and a large number 
of laymen ; and in the very place where is depo- 
sited the picture which is regarded with so much 
reverence. 

It was on the Sunday after Easter that I preached 
in this church ; and I found it suitable to address 
my audience on a subject connected with the re- 
collections of the season. Easter, amongst the 
Greeks, is by far the most joyful festival in the 



166 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



year. After the abstinence and rigours of a fifty- 
day's fast, every thing assumes an air of gaiety. 
All persons meeting each other, even in the pub- 
lic streets, kiss one another. The more common 
modes of salutation are partially suspended : and 
the universal salutation is this, Xpia-rcx; avea-rvj, " Christ 
is risen." The instantaneous reply follows, 'AXySus 
avea-rv], " He is risen indeed." Not only, there- 
fore, did the festival season, but doubly so 
the universal reference to Christ's Resurrection, 
render appropriate the selection of the text from 
which I addressed my auditors : — If ye then be 
risen with Christ, seek those things which are 
above, where Christ sitteth at the right-hand 
of God. 

The opportunities of public preaching thus af- 
forded me in Greece, are a sufficient demonstration 
what were the general feelings of the Greeks at 
the time I visited them. I do not undertake to 
assert that similar access to their pulpits would 
at all times be conceded. It might be otherwise 
at present : nor even at that time did I deem it 
wise to use the liberty to its full extent. But 
the certain inference which may be derived from 
these facts, is this, that when the Greeks were 
uncontrolled by any superior power, either civil 
or ecclesiastical, when they were left to act as 
their own feelings dictated, they certainly did 
permit an English Missionary to preach on these 



AND THE LEVANT. 



167 



and several other occasions ; and thus clearly dis- 
played the liberality of their minds to Englishmen 
and Protestants, and their willingness to hear, from 
their lips, truths the most important which can be 
brought to the notice of man. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



ENLIGHTENED GREEKS. 

Importance of inquiring for cases of individual conversion— Events in 
the house of a picture-maker— Conversion of a Greek at Constantinople 
— Conviction of the truth of Christianity, in the case of two Memhers 
of the Greek Senate, and of the Prior of a Monastery — Singular expres- 
sion of a Greek Ecclesiastic — Story of a Native of Zagora — Importance 
of a conciliatory mode of address — Narrative of a painful disappointment. 

Persons of true Religion can never be satisfied 
with remarks on the general progress of religious 
knowledge. Much as they may be delighted at 
sight of an extensive and powerful series of means 
in vigorous operation, they recollect, that these 
are but means ; and they inquire, with earnestness, 
whether causes have, as yet, had their anticipated 
effects. Have individuals been really enlightened, 
and saved ? — such is the nature of their demands ; 
and the investigation is highly just and necessary. 
That will always continue a heathen land, where 
the Missionary is not seriously intent on such re- 
searches ; and unhappy, and useless, is that Mis- 
sionary, who delights only in enumeration, however 
splendid, of the multitude of copies of the Scriptures 



AND THE LEVANT. 169 

distributed; of the quantity, however vast, of letter- 
press which has been poured over the scene of his 
operations ; or even in the frequency and momen- 
tary effect of his sermons and conversation. If 
permanent results do not follow, the language is 
too applicable : — I have laboured in vain ; I have 
spent my strength for nought, and in vain. It is 
impossible for me to assert that I have seen many 
persons in the Levant brought into that state of re- 
ligious decision which gives full confidence in their 
spiritual conversion ; but I can positively say, that 
I have seen many abandon superstition and infide- 
lity ; I have seen many embrace correct views of the 
Christian Religion ; and of some, I have ventured 
to hope that they really had experienced a total 
renovation of disposition and character. 

There is an obvious impropriety in bringing living 
characters before the public ; and therefore I feel 
myself obliged to give a very inadequate idea of the 
subject. Some hints must suffice. 

In the Island of , I spent a month in the 

house of a picture-maker. The opposition which 
he manifested to the Truth may easily be explained, 
on the principle which impelled Demetrius and his 
associates to oppose St. Paul at Ephesus. His 
profession was, in his estimation, not merely the 
lawful means of temporal support to which Provi- 
dence had called him, but it also afforded scope for 
constant acts of religious devotion. Now, though 

I 



170 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



the heart of this man was rigidly attached to picture- 
worship, his son, a young man about twenty- five 
years of age, had become so enlightened, that he 
had totally forsaken this superstition. Not only did 
he join me, daily, with two other Greeks, in the 
reading of the Scriptures, and in social prayer, but, 
on asking him to give me one of the pictures which 
he had formerly worshipped, that I might send it as 
an object of curiosity to England, his reply was 
this : ' I have shivered all my pictures to atoms 
long ago.' The zeal of this young man, and of one 
of his friends, rose indeed to such a pitch, that it 
was in danger of taking a wrong direction. I found 
that they were actually entertaining thoughts of a 
general assault upon the objects of family worship. 
They had already gained the name of elKovopclx 01 * 
picture-fighters; and they were on the point of 
recalling from antiquity the tumultuous deeds of the 
eiKovoKXao-Toci, pictm^e-breakers. They were happily 
induced, by my representations, to trust in more 
appropriate means of extending Truth, than the use 
of violence and injustice. 

At Constantinople, I became acquainted with a 
Greek who afforded the very best hopes. My first 
intercourse with him led me to suspect him of 
infidelity, By the perusal of Lord Lyttleton's 
Essay on the character of St. Paul, he became 
powerfully convinced of the truth of Revealed 
Religion. This conviction was attended by so 



AND THE LEVANT. 



171 



spiritual a bias given to his disposition, that he 
read, with much interest, the most doctrinal and 
devotional pieces. In the sequel, he gave such 
satisfactory evidence of true .Religion that, accord- 
ing to the testimony of Mr. Brewer, - such a person 
would be at once admitted, as a sincere Christian, 
into the Churches of New England.' 

In the Island of , I had delightful inter- 
course with many most hopeful characters. L. and 
Z. were both Members of the Legislative Body. 
Soon after my acquaintance with them, their lan- 
guage was to this effect: — " We admire the morals 
of the New Testament : nothing can be more beau- 
tiful : but we cannot believe in the Divine origin 
of the Christian Religion." To these persons, also, 
I gave Lord Lyttleton's Essay. It produced the 
most happy effects on them both. Z. expressed 
himself as follows, when he had perused the work 
alluded to : — " Not the shadow of a doubt remains 
upon my mind ; rlitoTe, rfaore, rivore, nothing, nothing, 
nothing." 

About the same time, I saw much of the Hegou- 
menos, or Superior, of a large monastery. Our 
conversation turned constantly on Religion ; and 
led to such favourable results, that he at length 
avowed to me his entire conviction of the Truth, as 
I brought it before him. " And what do you think 
I was previously ? " he inquired. " I was actually 
an infidel. Though a monk, I was an infidel ! " 

l 2 



172 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



Another of my most intimate friends in this island 
was an ecclesiastic of considerable rank. What 
effect was produced on him by conversations, may 
be judged of by this singular circumstance. Retiring- 
one day from my cottage, in company of one of our 
friends, he stroked his long white beard, and said 
with much seriousness : " Well ! what an event is 
this ! a man with a beard so white as mine, to begin 
to discover what is the truth in Religion ! " — We 
were once alone together, and I happened to 
observe : " If I could be persuaded that I had 
really been instrumental towards the eternal salva- 
tion of one individual, I should feel happy to have 
left my country, and to be living so long in these 
parts of the world." " Courage!" he replied: " I 
really believe that you have been the cause of this 
blessing to myself." 

After one of my sermons in the Church of the 
Panagia, in iEgina, two persons called upon me, 
and requested that I would give them instruction in 
Religion. To this I most readily assented. Both 
of them eventually encouraged the belief that they 
were giving diligent attention to their eternal in- 
terests ; but it is the younger of them whose story 
I shall now relate. We had been in habits of 
intimacy for some time, when he gave me his history. 
He was a native of Zagora, a district not far from 
the celebrated pass of Thermopylae. Educated in 
the strictest tenets of the Greek Church, he became 



AND THE LEVANT. 173 
very strongly imbued with them. He was in the 
habit of confession to his spiritual superiors,- and, 
in compliance with this practice went, when on a 
visit to Egypt, to confess to a bishop of much repute 
for sanctity. The old man spoke to him with much 
feeling- on the utter vanity of all earthly pursuits ; 
and urged upon him, that it was the part of a 
reasonable being to give the most earnest and unre- 
mitting attention to the salvation of his soul ; — no 
sacrifice could be deemed too great, for the acquisi- 
tion of such an object. Strongly impressed by 
representations at once so affecting and so true, it is 
not matter of surprise that our young friend was 
ready to fall in with any advice which appeared to 
coincide with these momentous ideas. " Go," said 
the bishop, " to Mount Sinai*. Abandon the world 
and its dangerous and unsatisfying pursuits. Take 
upon you the monastic vows ; and consecrate your 
life to God and eternity." This admonition, repul- 
sive as it might appear to a youthful mind, just 
opening to a sight of all that was alluring, and 
almost a stranger to all that was painful in the 
world, had a most powerful effect. The resolution, 
which would have attached O., for the whole term 
of his mortal life, to the seclusion of Mount Sinai', 
was all but formed. Providentially, his father, 
learning the state of his feelings, interposed for his 
rescue, and gave him positive orders to return 
home. 



174 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

He had not long yielded obedience to these 
injunctions, when a new and very opposite danger 
assailed him. French infidelity had reached the 
obscure hamlets of Zagora. He met with an in- 
dividual who had imbibed sceptical notions, to an 
extent which soon produced a corresponding effect 
upon his own mind. How could he escape the 
delusion, when he knew not what true Christianity 
was, nor had a single book or guide of any descrip- 
tion to direct him to the knowledge of the Truth ? 
He fell therefore, most deeply into the gulf of Infi- 
delity. So fully and sincerely did he become a 
convert to these opinions, that for seven entire 
years, as he informed me, he had not the slightest 
doubt that the religions of Christ and Mahomet 
were equally fabulous. The remark which he made 
in connexion with this avowal, is worthy of notice. 
He found infidelity the source of indescribable 
misery. He used frequently to sit in pensive 
solitude, reflecting upon the forlorn condition of 
man. " Here, in this world, he was a being incapable 
of obtaining enjoyment ; and the conclusion of this 
life of sorrow was annihilation ! 99 Such were his 
reveries, when he came, with so many others, to 
hear my sermon. — " Christianity, after all, from 
God ! " — such intelligence as this startled him from 
the dream of despair. News, indeed, the most 
cheering, was this for him ! Hence he followed me 
eagerly to my dwelling, and became my most atten- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



175 



tive scholar. — The issue of the narrative is this, 
that he not only obtained the most plenary conviction 
that Christianity is from God, but afforded most 
satisfactory evidence, during" the short acquaintance 
I had with him, that the effects produced were 
something more than a mere mental illumination. 
The earnest application with which he studied the 
Sacred Records — the strong desire which he evinced 
for personal interest in the blessings of the Gospel- — 
and the determined resolution with which he aban- 
doned what he found opposed to the pleasure of 
God — these were some of the symptoms which 
induce me to hope that he became a sincere follower 
of Christ. His duties, soon after our acquaintance, 
led him, to our mutual sorrow, to part from me : 
and since that moment I have never heard of him. 

Many other instances of a similar description I 
might adduce ; and some still more satisfactory. 
They do not prove that any great advance has been 
made in the work of individual conversion ; but they 
prove, most fully, that very strong hopes may be 
entertained of the beneficial results of Missionary 
labour. If effects like these followed the very 
desultory endeavours which I was enabled to make 
in every place where I could remain but for a short 
period of time, what may not be hoped from the 
divine blessings on continued exertions '! I observed, 
in general, that the Greeks are an extremely liberal 
people. Notwithstanding the exceptions to the 



176 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

contrary, I uniformly, in every place, found a num- 
ber of persons who would join me most readily in 
devotional exercises, and who would listen, with 
apparent interest, to my religious instructions. A 
kind and conciliatory address never failed to win its 
way. At first, I erred in my mode of operations. 
I went out under the influence of the idea, that 
sound argument would soon convince of error. 
And hence, I used to proceed, almost on first 
acquaintance, to confute the errors of the Greek 
Church. I soon, however, discovered, that to 
confute man is not to convert him; and that to 
silence him is not to gain him. Generally speaking, 
the individual thus treated refers his defeat, not to 
the weakness of his cause, but to his own want 
of acquaintance with it ; and the victory which has 
been gained over him, more especially if it be in 
public, exasperates his feelings, and renders him 
tenfold more hostile to Truth than ever. 

Discovering my mistake, I proceeded, for the 
future, upon a different plan. I considered, that 
my first object, with every person, was to secure, 
as much as possible, his friendly feelings. Hence, 
my first topics of conversation were such as would 
interest him most. Kolokotroni, Sultan Mahmoud, 
the events of the revolution — these were subjects on 
which he delighted to converse, and I gave him all 
the information I could concerning them. This 
method conciliated regard ; suspicion and reserve 



AND THE LEVANT. 



177 



died away; and often cordial friendship succeeded. 
Nor was this by any means a long and tedious 
process. I usually found, that after a very few 
days' intercourse, on this system, there was no point 
of Greek Faith, however sacred, which I might not 
approach with a conviction, Now I shall be heard 
without prejudice. In fact, in a multitude of in- 
stances, commencing in this manner, I have, at no 
great interval of time, arrived at that very mtimum 
penetrale of Greek superstition — the perpetual vir- 
ginity of Mary. Whenever a Greek has been 
brought to consider this as a point of no great 
importance, we may be certain that there is no 
prejudice whatsoever which he will not surrender. 

It cannot be considered a fair view of Missionary 
proceedings, when the eye is directed only to bright 
and pleasing appearances. The darker shades of 
the picture ought not to be concealed. In Greece, 
as elsewhere, whilst a Missionary may confidently 
expect divine blessing on diligent labour, he may as 
certainly look for much discouragement. If some 
are given him to become his crown of rejoicing in 
the day of our Lord Jesus Christ, there will be 
many others in regard to whom his language will be 
that of the Prophet : All day long have I stretched 
out my hand to a disobedient and gainsay ing people. 
Many, very many of this class have fallen in my 
way, during my visit to the East. I shall offer 
some remarks concerning one of them ; as it will, 



178 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

I trust, tend to increase our acquaintance with Mis- 
sionary labours. 

D. was a Greek of considerable attainments. 
He had spent much of his youth in Italy and 
Sicily ; and spoke several languages, not excepting 
English, with facility. In the Island of Ithaca, 
I formed his acquaintance , and very frequently 
conversed with him on better subjects than those 
which are visible, transient, and imperfect. There 
was, indeed, nothing positive or fixed in his views 
and feelings of Religion ; but there was a general 
opening of the mind to Truth, which led me some- 
times to hope, that he, with many others, would 
elevate his desires and joys much higher than the 
mountains of Ithaca, by which we were surrounded. 
It was not a year after our separation, that we 
met again at Constantinople. The acquaintance, 
which we had formed, led us to retire together to 
the village of Therapia, during the season that the 
plague was prevailing in the city. Here we re- 
newed our religious conversations, and daily walked 
out in each other's society. Often have we tra- 
versed together the beautiful environs of this 
village ; sometimes visiting the former domains of 
the Greek Princes, now confiscated ; sometimes 
wandering along the margin of the Bosphorus, 
which was rolling its clear waters with impetuous 
course at our feet ; and sometimes ascending the 
elevations which command a general prospect of 



AND THE LEVANT. 



179 



Buyukdere, the mouth of the Black Sea, and the 
opposite coast of Asia Minor. , 

Whilst seated together on these cliffs, inhaling 
the pure breezes of the Euxine, which refreshed 
and invigorated our bodily frame, how often have 
I inwardly and ardently longed that a spiritual and 
divine afflatus might descend from Heaven upon 
our souls ! At one period I formed the strongest 
hopes of such a blessing. D. was seized with an 
intense desire to ascertain the truth of Christianity. 
The infinite value of the human soul, if truly im- 
mortal —the incalculable importance of an escape 
from endless ruin, if such ruin really exist — these 
considerations appeared to have rushed upon his 
mind, and to have seized the dominion of his senses, 
with a force which was resistless. His expressions, 
at this time, implied that his whole soul was alive 
to the momentous inquiry, Is this Volume from 
God, or merely from man? Impelled by such 
urgent thoughts, he commenced a most diligent 
scrutiny into the Inspired Writings. Day after 
day was the Bible in his hands. His remarks were 
all directed to this subject ; his thoughts all ran in 
this channel. The man who has been a Missionary 
may judge of the interest I felt in such an exhibi- 
tion as this. Constantly did I pray for him ; strenu- 
ously did I admonish him to seek for divine direc- 
tions in prayer ; and frequently did we unite in 
prayer together. The vague scepticism, which had 



180 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



hitherto rested as a cloud upon his mind, appeared 
to be giving- way. Light was flashing in upon his 
understanding ; and though the sun was not risen, 
there appeared to be every indication of a bright 
and eternal day to follow. — Love your enemies. 
Bless them that curse you ; and pray for them that 
despite/idly use you, and persecute you. " This 
language must be from God ! " was his expression ; 
" the sentiment is too high, too good, for human 
invention/' Other evidence, also, affected him so 
strongly, that he inquired of me, seriously, whether 
he ought to partake of the Lord's Supper ; which 
he had discovered, from the New Testament, was a 
duty incumbent on Christians. Such were the pro- 
mising appearances, which gave the flattering hope 
of a transition from death to life, in the case of 
my friend. But, alas ! how speedily were all my 
expectations disappointed, and all my efforts ren- 
dered abortive ! Events soon occurred, which con- 
vinced me that D.'s feelings, however intense, and 
for the moment sincere, were but a passing excite- 
ment, and a feverish dream. Though for a short 
period he seemed to have taken an eagle's flight 
above this scene of folly, his subsequent conduct 
convinced me that he was to be ranked amongst the 
sad multitude, 

whose eyes are ever fixed below, 

Gazing upon the earth, with thoughts which dare not glow. 

The truth was, a fascinating temptation presented 



AND THE LEVANT. 



181 



itself to his view • and he had not strength to resist 
it. The pure and calm joys of Religion disap- 
peared before the allurements of sense ; and, as was 
natural, Religion now appeared as a gloomy and 
malignant spectre, to scare and torment him, rather 
than a ministering angel, to beckon and to guide 
him to Paradise. Suddenly I found him relin- 
quishing all the arguments for Truth which once 
had appeared so striking to him, and advancing 
objections the most frivolous. A specimen of his 
cavils is this: — Christ is represented as seeking to 
conceal himself from the intrusion of the multitude ; 
but he could not be hid. " How could a Being 
claim Divinity," he urged, " who found it impos- 
sible to conceal himself I " — The fact is, when error 
is loved, no truth can prevail. The voice of the 
Almighty, disturbing the serenity of the universe 
by a voice from the third heaven, would be referred 
to natural causes, by the man who loves darkness 
rather than light. — My unhappy friend now assumed 
an attitude of determined opposition to the Truth. 
My society was, of course, no longer agreeable to 
him ; and I had to retire from my long-continued 
efforts, with nothing but the consolatory reflection, 
I have at least commended myself to this mans 
conscience in the sight of God. 

Subsequently, we both resided in the same island 
of the Archipelago, but our intercourse was never 
renewed. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



JEWS IN TURKEY. 

Suffering condition of the Jews in Turkey— Their iiltreatment by the 
Turks illustrated— Singular question proposed by a Persian — The Shapgee 
put to death by the Grand Signor — Ill-treatment of the Jews by the 
Greeks — Pardon asked for the mention of a Jew— Massacre of the Jews 
at Tripolitza— Jews weary of waiting for the Messiah — Anecdote of a 
Jew at Salonica — The Gospel at length preached to the Jews of the 
Levant — Conversion and sufferings of three Jews at Constantinople — 
Means of their conversion— Their concealment— Their apprehension and 
appearance before Turkish Authorities— Visit paid them by the Author, 
in the prison of the Porte— Their imprisonment in the Bagnio— Apostacy 
of one, and constancy of the others — Future prospects. 

The sufferings to which the people of Israel are 
exposed are a frequent subject of appeal, with those 
who illustrate the fulfilment of Prophecy. That no 
exemption has been conferred on Jews in Turkey, 
from the force and application of these predictions, 
I myself have been witness. In Turkey, it is true, 
the stroke of violence spares no head : it falls on 
the white as well as on the black turban. The 
very green turban, the supposed ensign of descent 
from the Prophet, cannot escape. The countries 
which are celebrated as the cradle of the Arts and 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 183 

Sciences, which are associated with all that is he- 
roic in Classic recollections, and which are rendered 
sacred by Scriptural History ; and those, too, which 
lay claim to superiority of climate, of atmosphere, 
of fertility, and of scenery ; these are the regions 
which, of all others, have been exposed to the most 
severe calamities. Here, desolation has become 
doubly desolate : spoliation, demolition, conflagra- 
tion, pestilence, oppression, and other misfortunes 
to which human-nature is exposed, have here ap- 
peared in more gigantic forms than elsewhere. It 
might not appear improper to refer this condition 
of superior distress to a penal visitation of the 
Almighty, awarding more severe chastisements 
where superior advantages have been abused. But, 
whatever woe may be the lot of others, subject 
to Turkish domination — as far as my own observation 
has gone — none, in ordinary times, are so insulted 
and maltreated as Jews. 

The name by which a Jew is designated in Turk- 
ish (tsephoot) is peculiarly expressive of contempt. 
The Greeks have assured me, that a Jew is not 
admitted to the Mussulman faith unless he pass 
through the previous gradation of Christianity ; as 
though there were something so peculiarly hideous 
in Judaism, that even to be converted from it could 
not be permitted by the votaries of the False Pro- 
phet. Without vouching for the accuracy of this 
statement, the existence of such a report amongst 



184 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



the Greeks of the East gives a correct idea of the 
degree of contempt in which Jews are held by the 
one nation, and of the supposed contempt in which 
they are believed to be regarded by the other. 
The despite of Judaism is everywhere conspicuous 
amongst Mussulmans. An English Gentleman, who 
had been attached to the British Embassy in Persia, 
informed me, that he was once conversing with a 
leading Persian of Tebriz. The topic of discourse 
was, the method of inflicting punishment in Eng- 
land. One question had been, " How are mur- 
derers punished in your country?" After a suitable 
answer, the next inquiry was, " If a Jew be killed, 
what is done to the man who killed him?" It is 
needless to add, that, in the estimation of this Mus- 
sulman, it was one thing to kill a man, another to 
put a Jew to death. 

When I was at Constantinople in the year 1826, 
the Shapgee, who was the principal Jew in Turkey, 
was executed, by order of the Grand Signor. It is 
sufficiently known to all who have a slight acquaint- 
ance with Turkish affairs, that it is by no means 
an unusual occurrence for persons of distinction, 
even Turks, to lose their life by a similar order, 
when their wealth has inflamed the cupidity of the 
sovereign. But, I believe it to have been the 
uniform custom, for a notification of the death of 
the individual, assigning some pretext for the ex- 
ecution, to be affixed to the gate of the Seraglio, 



AND THE LEVANT. 



185 



or in some other way to be made public. But in 
the case of the Shapgee, I could never learn that 
any cause whatsoever, real or pretended, of his 
execution, had been given to the world. It might 
seem a fair inference, that, in the judgment of the 
Grand Signor, to put to death one of the dogs 
of Constantinople, and to decapitate the principal 
Jew of his empire, even though that Jew had 
peculiarly enjoyed his favour, were deeds of equal 
importance. 1 

It is impossible to give an adequate idea of the 
contempt in which the Jews are held by the 
Greeks. The style in which they sometimes speak 
of them may, in part, illustrate this assertion. 
When the Greeks have to mention swine, and some 
other subjects which they deem peculiarly offensive, 
they usually introduce the expression, Me <rv[ATid8eiccv, 
Begging your pardon, as a duty of politeness to the 
persons present. I remember to have noticed how 
invariably the old Bey of Maina made use of this 
form of expression. " In Maina," to use his words, 
" we have horses, oxen, sheep, goats, and, begging 
your pardon ! swine." A similar mode of speaking 

1 The custom of affixing a notification of the crimes of those who are 
executed, to their persons, or to some place adjoining their dead bodies or 
heads, seems to bear a resemblance to the title which was placed by Pilate 
over the head of our Saviour. I saw the ears of the Greeks who had fallen 
at the battle of Athens thrown before the gate of the Seraglio. There were 
also several heads. To the adjoining wall was attached the title, notifying 
the crimes of the delinquents. 



186 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



is often adopted, when there is occasion to intro- 
duce the mention of a Jew : — e( I was walking 
along the street, and I met, begging your pardon ! 
a Jew ! " This is an example in point. Nor will 
Greek feeling towards the Jewish people confine 
itself to contemptuous expression, when licence is 
granted for active aggression. I was informed by 
a respectable Hydriote, by whom I was hospitably 
entertained during my last visit to Hydra, that 
when the Greek Revolution broke out, all the Jews 
in the island, consisting, if my memory does not fail 
me, of two entire families, were barbarously put to 
death by a man named Kolodemas. 1 

A very respectable Jew of Corfu assured me that 
no less than five thousand Jews perished at the 
capture of Tripolitza. Certain it is, that the Jewish 
population of that city, whatever may have been 
its amount, was destroyed. I heard only of one 
individual who was spared : he was a man of very 
large property, and, by means of his wealth, pur- 
chased protection from one of the Greek Chieftains. 
Thus did Jewish blood, mingled with Turkish, flow 
down the streets of the captured city. The sons 

1 This wretch had murdered, according to the computation of the Hy- 
driotes, six or seven of his own countrymen ; and, amongst the number, his 
own brother-in-law. No estimate could be formed of the number of Turks 
and Jews he had assassinated. I w r as informed in Hydra, that it was the 
same man who fired upon the boat of the Cambrian (or Naiad), and thus 
brought upon the island the misfortunes consequent on that deed. He was 
taken away in the Cambrian ; but after, I believe, a year, returned back, to 
the horror of his countrymen. 



AND THE LEVANT. 



187 



of Isaac, and the sons of Ishmael, on this as well 
as on every occasion during the Greek Revolution, 
met with a common fate. Their corpses were cast 
out of the city, and, like the ancient sovereign 
of Judah, they received no burial superior to that 
of an ass. 

It may be remarked in general, that the Greek 
Revolution has not left a single descendant of 
Abraham within the liberated territory. Thus do 
we find ancient Prophecy still fulfilled in the dis- 
tresses of this people : Deut. xxviii. 63. It shall 
come to pass, that, as the Lord rejoiced over you 
to do you good, and to multiply you; so the Lord 
will rejoice over you to destroy you, and to bring 
you to nought. 

Is any prospect afforded of the conversion of the 
Jews of Turkey? — This is a question of considera- 
ble interest : and though I do not discern any cer- 
tain indications of an event so earnestly desired by 
Christians, I deem it proper to advance such facts 
as bear upon the question. One hopeful intimation 
is presented, by the circumstance of many Jews 
of Constantinople having requested Christian bap- 
tism. No less than eight solicited this rite at my 
hands ; and eleven have subsequently been baptized 
by the Armenians. From what I observed at Con- 
stantinople, I was led to believe that there were 
many Jews of that city eager to become Christians. 
Those, with whom I was acquainted,, hesitated not 



188 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

to assert, that hundreds were secretly desirous of it- 
I cannot but think that a large number of Jews are 
become weary of waiting for the Messiah. — " We 
have waited, age after age, for the Christ. Our 
Rabbies have continually been cherishing our ex- 
pectation. We have been living on the hopes of 
his coming, for twenty centuries: but we are dis- 
appointed. Either he must be already arrived, or 
we are encouraging a delusion." — Such ideas, I 
believe, have begun, at length, to produce influence 
on Jewish minds ; and hence we are to account for 
the eagerness with which some, though very par- 
tially instructed, have sought for Christian baptism, 
and for the reports which are in circulation in 
regard to others. 

Our hopes receive further encouragement, from 
the fact, that now, for the first time since the 
primitive ages, a regular attempt to preach the 
Gospel to the Jews of the East is in progress. It 
would indeed be a preposterous expectation that the 
Jews should admit the Messiahship of Jesus, in 
connexion with the errors of the Greek and Roman- 
Catholic Churches. Such a corrupt view of the 
Religion of Christ has doubtless contributed to 
confirm their prejudices ; and to increase their aver- 
sion to a Religion, which, with too much reason, 
they deem idolatrous and impious. I have heard 
Jews express their conviction, that the worship 
of pictures is idolatry ; and Mr. B. Barker, of 



AND THE LEVANT. 



189 



Smyrna, relates a most interesting anecdote of a 
Jew of Salonica, who had been exceedingly impeded 
and embarrassed in his desire to embrace Chris- 
tianity by the worship of statues and pictures in the 
apostate churches. When this individual heard 
from Mr. Barker, that there were Christians who 
worshipped God without any such visible interven- 
tion, and was directed to the New Testament as 
the sole directory of faith and practice, he laid hold 
of his hand with eager delight, exclaiming, "At 
length, I have found a true Christian ! " 

The Truth is now offered to the People of Israel, 
by Missionaries resident amongst them, and by 
means of the New-Testament Scriptures presented 
to them in an intelligible language. The Hebrew 
New Testament was first given them. The know- 
ledge of this ancient lauguage is not sufficiently 
extended in the Levant, to render the Hebrew 
Version intelligible to many, except the Rabbies. 
It has, however, been read. It has opened the 
way for the proclamation of the Truth ; and it will, 
probably, with the more learned Jews, be ever the 
work most studied. Shortly before I left Smyrna, 
in the year 1829, a considerable number of the 
Christian Scriptures in Spanish-Hebrew had ar- 
rived ; and I should hope that, at present, they are 
in active circulation. As the Jews of Turkey are, 
for the most part, descendants of those who were 
expelled from Spain, it is still a dialect of Spanish, 



190 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

which is their usual language. The New Testa- 
ment, therefore, in this language, and in their 
peculiar character, is an inestimable benefit con- 
ferred upon them. And thus, how interesting to 
observe, that the Gospel, which in Apostolic times 
was the power of God unto salvation, to the Jew 
first, and also to the Greek, now again, after the 
lapse of ages, is offered unto both ! 

The conversion and sufferings of three Jews at 
Constantinople, attracted considerable attention in 
England ; and, we trust, are only the precursors 
of a more powerful impression to be produced on 
the great body of their nation. As the facts con- 
nected with them throw light on the circumstances 
of Missionary labour amongst the Jews, I shall 
enter into some details on the subject. 

The slightness of the means which were instru- 
mental in bringing them to a conviction of the truth, 
is worthy of notice. When I asked John Baptist 
Castro, what had first led him to believe in Christ, 
he referred me to a conversation which, as a child, 
he had had with an Armenian, as the origin of his 
faith. 

When the Rabbi David Bechar, and Nissim 
Cohen, first called on me at Galata, they instantly 
expressed themselves as convinced that Jesus was 
the Messiah. On my inquiry what had produced 
this conviction, the Rabbi drew forth from his bosom 
a copy of the Hebrew New Testament, and informed 



AND THE LEVANT. 



191 



me that it was to the perusal of this book he attri- 
buted his faith. The appearance of the book itself 
bore testimony to the diligence with which it had 
been studied. It had no splendour, or excessive 
cleanliness, to lead to the supposition it had been 
left to fill its place amongst the household furniture; 
but it was quite sullied, and worne down, with 
constant use. — Blessed is this man, (I might have 
said,) for he ivalketh not in the counsel of the un- 
godly, nor standeth in the way of sinners, nor 
sitteth in the seat of the scornful. But his delight 
is in the law of the Lord: and in his law doth he 
meditate day and night. I inquired of him, — 
"Where did you obtain this book?" " It was 
given me, when walking in the street, by some 
unknown person." This was his reply. Another 
instance, amongst many, of the benefit which it 
pleases God sometimes to confer, even on the most 
irregular distribution of the Holy Scriptures ! 

For some time after my acquaintance with these 
individuals, and others of their nation, I employed 
myself in the delightful work of giving them Chris 
tian instruction. But our minds were ever consi- 
derably alarmed, by a fear of detection, on the part 
of their hostile brethren. In that case, the worst 
consequences were to be apprehended. They feared 
not death, they informed me ; but they confessed 
their fear of the Casa Negra, the Black House ; 
a Jewish prison, in which, if once immersed, they 



192 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

might be confined for life. Things had not been 
long in this state, when Jacob Levi, one of my most 
hopeful visitants, having openly confessed to some 
Jews his conviction that the Messiah had arrived, 
was arrested, bastinadoed, and actually thrown into 
the Casa Neg?*a. The three first mentioned, Chaim 
Castro, Nissim Cohen, and David Bechar, instantly 
fled to the Rev. Mr. Leeves and myself for pro- 
tection. My friend, Mr. Leeves, the Agent of the 
British and Foreign Bible Society, deemed it a 
Christian duty to shew them this favour; and, ac- 
cordingly, they were placed in concealment, by his 
direction. 

The activity of the Jews, in attempting to dis- 
cover their retreat, aided by the offer of a conside- 
rable reward to any person who should give them 
information, proved too successful. I had baptized 
the three refugees, under apprehension that they 
might be torne away from us ; and subsequent oc- 
currences demonstrated the propriety of this step, 
for long were they placed beyond the reach of Chris- 
tian baptism and Christian instruction. An Arme- 
nian, who had been imprudently called in to perform 
the office of hair-dresser, communicated their hiding- 
place to the Jews, for the sake of the proffered 
bribe ; and the immediate consequence was, that 
their house was surrounded by a company of Turkish 
Topgees, (artillery-men,) and they were carried off 
lo r>rison. It is a peculiarity of the Turkish Em- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



193 



pire, that events apparently trivial attract the notice 
of the most important personages. Our three con- 
verts were summoned before some of the leading- 
characters in the Turkish world. First, they ap- 
peared before the Topgee Bashee, the Commander 
of the Turkish artillery ; next, before the Seraskier, 
the Generalissimo of the Turkish forces, the same 
individual who led the army in the first campaign 
against the Russians : they also appeared before the 
Reis Effendi, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, 
and the Grand Vizier. Their cause was left for 
decision in the Court of the Grand Vizier. 

Whilst they were in the prison of the Porte, I 
made an effort to see them ; and, by a gratuity to 
the soldiers on guard, I was permitted to meet the 
Armenian, their companion. The prison was a long 
room, which received no light, except from the door, 
which remained open. Hence I could not see our 
other friends, who were at the upper end of the 
apartment ; though they would have a sight of my- 
self, standing, as I was, in the light of the door. 
The Armenian, their fellow-prisoner, whom I was 
permitted to see, had been so kind as to conceal 
them in his house ; and for this act of compassion 
he was now doomed to share in all their sorrows. 
There was something peculiarly distressing in the 
circumstances of this man. He had been torne from 
his wife and family, who were dependent on him for 
support ; and his mother-in-law was constantly re- 

K 



194 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



sorting to us, and charging us with being the authors 
of his misfortunes. When this unhappy sufferer 
came forward from the dark part of his prison, I 
was struck with the ashy paleness which appeared 
on his countenance. His whole body trembled most 
piteously ; and gave me such an impression of the 
force of human misery as I shall not easily forget. 
I addressed him in one of the few Turkish words 
which I had learnt, Korhna — Fear not ; " but I 
was too conscious that I might as well address the 
winds. He knew that he had good cause to fear; 
that he was in Turkish hands ; and that he was alike 
beyond the reach either of mercy or justice. How 
melancholy the condition of Turkey, may perhaps, 
in part, be illustrated by the circumstance, that 
" Korkma — Fear not," appeared to me to be one of 
the first Turkish expressions with which a stranger 
becomes familiar. It intimates, that Turkey is so 
pre-eminently the land of fear, that one of the most 
common forms of speech is the exhortation to escape 
from it. 

After much uncertainty and delay, our friends 
were at last sentenced to be imprisoned, sine die, in 
the Bagnio. The Bagnio is a place of confinement 
and labour, connected with the Turkish Arsenal ; 
and it is the receptacle of some of the worst criminals 
of the capital. Into this abode of misery men are 
thrown, and often forgotten, for ever. They fall 
victims to the plague, or to excessive suffering ; and 



AND THE LEVANT. 



195 



even though the time of their imprisonment should 
be expired, they sometimes cannot emerge, from 
want of the aid in superior quarters which is requi- 
site for that purpose. To give any proper descrip- 
tion of a place so horrible, would be a hopeless 
effort. My heart sickens at the recollection of that 
reiteration of cruelties and wrongs which are ever 
experienced by the inmates of that doleful place. 
In speaking of the Bagnio, I have frequently cited, 
from " Pollock's Course of Time," a passage relating 
to one place, and perhaps only one, still more 
melancholy : — 

" And there were groans that ended not, and sighs 

That always sighed, and tears that ever wept, 
And ever fell, but not in Mercy's sight." 

Even this language did not appear to be inapplicable 
to the Bagnio of Constantinople. 

In such a prison as this, and for eighteen months, 
were our friends exposed to all its trials, uncertain 
if they should ever be delivered. It is not surprising 
that, under such persecutions, one of their number 
should lose his constancy. We had the pain to find 
that the Rabbi was unable to bear up against them, 
f' He was born a Jew, and he would die a Jew ! " 
This was the melancholy resolution which he formed. 
Indeed, it was much more surprising to find the 
other two stedfast. Notwithstanding the blandish- 
ments, caresses, and kind promises which were made 
to the younger John on the one hand, and the seve- 
K 2 



196 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

rity of his trials on the other, nothing could shake 
his purpose. He resisted the tenderness of maternal 
affection, when that tenderness solicited his denial 
of Christ ; nor could a father's authority produce 
any stronger effect upon him. On the elder John 
no kind promises were lavished. He was considered 
the ringleader of the heresy ; and therefore was his 
fate determined, as far as Jewish influence could 
prevail. I saw, in the hands of the Chief Dragoman 
of the Porte, a petition, signed by the three prin- 
cipal Jews in Constantinople, imploring " the death 
of the accursed Chaim Castro." But all this male- 
volence failed to move him. 

I am far from considering these Jewish Converts 
as men of mature Christian experience. Indeed, 
I have, in general, such extreme suspicion of the 
Jewish character, that I should even fear to declare 
that I considered them as unquestionably converted, 
in the highest sense of the word : but whatever were 
my fears concerning them, 1 cannot but express my 
admiration of the patience which was given them. 
When I asked myself the question, ' How could 
you endure such sufferings, were you summoned to 
bear them ? ' I own, I trembled at the idea. And 
yet there were two converts from Judaism, with a 
knowledge of Christianity extremely limited, with 
no Christian society, and under circumstances 
scarcely admitting of any consolation, who suffered 
faithfully, for eighteen months, all these sorrows, 



AND THE LEVANT. 



197 



and finally emerged faithful to Christ their Mas- 
ter. 

I shall not pursue the history of our converts, nor 
of the subsequent impression which has been pro- 
duced on others of their nation. Were Turkish 
misrule to give place to justice and religious tolera- 
tion, I cannot but think that multitudes of Jews in 
the Ottoman Empire would confess the faith of 
Christ Crucified. But, under present circumstances, 
I am not sanguine in my expectations. Let us 
hope, that the period will soon arrive, when the 
words will be applicable to Israel, in the most happy 
and comprehensive sense — Rejoice greatly, O 
daughter of Zion ! for, lo ! thy King comet h unto 
thee, meek, and having salvation. 



CHAPTER XV. 



CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. 

Scientific Tourists, too often chargeable with folly and cruelty— Duty of 
Missionary Labour at length recognised — The object of Christian Missions 
compared, with that of Howard— Subject of rejoicing, that the light of 
Christianity is returning to the region from whence it first emanated. 

Before we allude once more to the Missionary 
visits which of late years have been made to the 
countries of the Levant, it may not be uninteresting 
to refer to visits of a different character. 

Multitudes of Englishmen have made tours in 
the Levant, for purposes of curiosity and science. 
They have gone thither to ascertain the site of an- 
cient cities, to measure the dimensions of ancient 
temples, to trace ancient rivers to their sources, to 
make collections of medals, to discover manuscripts, 
to bring to light concealed statuary, to examine the 
plants, the minerals, and natural productions of 
those lands, and to accomplish other objects of a 
scientific character. On returning to their native 
country, they replenish our Museums with the fruits 
of their researches ; and publish learned volumes, 
giving the narrative of their discoveries. These 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE. 199 

are objects of unquestionable importance. They 
prove useful, not only in many other respects, but 
also in the elucidation of Scripture. True Religion 
will ever encourage a proper attention to these 
branches of science. 

But we venture to offer two remarks, in regard 
to travellers of this description. One is this : How 
melancholy, when men are so absorbed in science, 
as to forget, comparatively, the salvation of the 
soul ! when they make scientific attainments and 
discoveries the chief end of their earthly existence 
— the object to which they dedicate the choicest 
affections of their hearts ! When the highest and 
most useful earthly science is unconnected with the 
higher knowledge of Christ Jesus our Lord, when 
it is not subordinated to the love of God, nor pur- 
sued with a view to the glory of God, what is it 
but trifling, as far as the individual himself is con- 
cerned? What will it profit that man to have 
gained the plaudits of the whole world, if he meet 
not with the approving salutation, Well done, good 
and faithful servant : enter thou into the joy of the 
Lord? — what, to have had his name enrolled in 
the most distinguished records of Learning, if it 
be not inscribed in the Book of Life 1 — what, though 
he have reaped ever so much visionary enjoyment 
from his refined labours, if he debar himself eternally 
from the enjoyments of Heaven ? 

If these remarks bring the very charge of folly 



200 



RESEARCHES IN GREECE 



against many a man of learning, the next remark, 
which I have to offer, accuses him of cruelty. What 
should we say of him, who had it in his power to 
rescue a Hindoo widow from the flames, and yet 
refused to interpose for her safety ? The most 
severe epithets, which language could express, 
would not be unappropriate. — What, then, shall 
we say of him, who is unacquainted with the method 
of escape from eternal flames, and yet fails to com- 
municate it? Whatever ideas, whatever words, 
may be appropriate to this insensibility, they are 
due, we fear, to many of those who have visited 
the Turkish Empire. It is not true, that, by means 
of their education in England, they were professedly 
acquainted with that Gospel, which is the only 
effectual antidote to misery of every description ; 
and yet they were at no pains to impart it to those 
who were destitute of it ? They avow themselves 
disciples of Him who can save to the uttermost ; 
and yet they proclaimed Him not, to those who were 
ready to perish. — If thou forbear to deliver them 
that are drawn unto death, and those that are ready 
to be slain ; if thou say est, Behold, we knew it not ; 
Doth not he that pondereth the heart consider it ? 
and he that keepeth thy soul, doth he not know it ? 
and shall he not render to every man according to 
his works ? Prov. xxiv. 11, 12. — Indeed, when 
we consider not only this particular instance of dis- 
regard to the eternal interests of our fellow-crea- 



AND THE LEVANT. 



201 



tures, but the general neglect of Missionary labours 
by the Protestant Churches, we shall find it a 
most humbling and painful reflection. We shall 
probably be astonished at the sinful apathy which 
has been prevalent ; and we shall cease to wonder 
that the absence of the Missionary spirit from 
the Protestant Churches should have assumed 
the appearance of a most valid objection against 
them, in the eyes of Fenelon, 

But, at length, Protestants have become sensible 
of their duty. Missionaries have gone forth to various 
parts of the world ; and the Mediterranean has not 
been omitted in the plans of Christian philanthropy. 
Men have gone abroad, like Howard, " not to 
survey the sumptuousness of palaces, or the state- 
liness of temples — not to make accurate measure- 
ments of the remains of ancient grandeur, nor to 
form a scale of the curiosity of modern art — not to 
collect medals, or collate manuscripts;" but with 
objects higher than these, and higher even than 
those of Howard. Their aim is, to do good, not 
to a few prisoners, but to the whole human race; 
not to lighten the fetters, but to liberate ; not to 
give a liberty which has earthly imperfection and 
duration connected with it, but one which knows 
neither defect nor limitation. In this sense, do all 
engaged in Missionary labour ■* remember the for- 
gotten, attend to the neglected, visit the forsaken, 
compare and collate the distresses of all men in all 
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202 RESEARCHES IN GREECE 

countries." This is the true " voyage of discovery 
into the wants and sufferings of our fellow-crea- 
tures;" this is the true " circumnavigation of cha- 
rity." — The preceding pages have given a general 
idea of some of the first endeavours of this kind, 
on the shores of the Mediterranean : and we trust, 
that, ere long, other pages will give the detail 
of more enlarged success. 

Finally, if it be a painful reflection, that during 
the silence of ages the trumpet of the Gospel was 
unblown, the notes of Salvation unheard, in that 
very land to which the first intelligence of Divine 
mercy was communicated, is it not a delightful con- 
sideration, that, by means of efforts from Great 
Britain, once more the language is beginning to be 
applicable to the theatre of Apostolic labour : — 
Blessed are the people who know the joyful sound f 
—if it be painful, that for centuries the banner of 
the Cross was unlifted, undisplayed in those regions 
where first it was unfurled — that it lay buried in 
the very tomb from whence the Redeemer rose 
triumphant : nay, was trampled in the dust, and in 
the very dust of Mount Calvary — is it not joyful 
that once more it is exhibited as an ensign to those 
nations, by the Christians of our country ? If we 
find cause for sorrow in the fact, that in the very 
countries where Redemption was first effected, Re- 
demption should be unknown for ages, that where 
the fountain for sin and for all uncleanness was 



AND THE LEVANT. 



203 



first opened, its efficacy should be wholly untried — 
that where the influences of the Holy Ghost first 
descended, they should now be withheld — we shall 
find cause for gratitude and joy, that in our day, 
and in connexion with labours from our country, 
once more, to the poor and to the rich, the Gospel 
is preached. Last of all, if we mourn that gene- 
ration after generation has sunk into the very dust 
— of Judaea, of Corinth, of Ephesus, of Macedonia 
— unwarned, uninvited, unenlightened, unsanctified 
— let us rejoice that now, at length, we have been 
permitted to resume the work of Apostles and 
Evangelists, to carry on the labour which they so 
auspiciously commenced; because we have been 
sent to those very lands, to preach good tidings to 
the meek, to bind up the broken-hearted, to proclaim 
liberty to the captives, to comfort all that mourn, 
to proclaim the acceptable year of the Lord. 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS, 



GENESIS, XXIX. 25. 

And it came to pass, that in the morning, behold it was Leah : 
and he said to Laban, What is this thou hast done unto me ? 
did I not serve with thee for Rachael? Wherefore, then? 
hast thou beguiled me ? 

It appears almost impossible to Europeans, that a 
deception like that of Laban's could be practised. 
But the following extract, from a Journal which I 
kept at Smyrna, presents a parallel case. 

*' The Armenian Brides are veiled during the 
marriage ceremony ; and hence deceptions have 
occurred, in regard to the person chosen for wife. 
I am informed, that, on one occasion, a young Ar- 
menian at Smyrna solicited in marriage a younger 
daughter, whom he admired. The parents of the 
girl consented to the request, and every previous 
arrangement was made. When the time for so- 



2508 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 

lemnizing the marriage arrived, the elder daughter, 
who was not so beautiful, was conducted by the 
parents to the altar, and the young man was un- 
consciously married to her. And it came to pass, 
that in the morning, behold, it was the elder 
daughter. The deceit was not discovered, till it 
could not be rectified ; and the manner in which 
the parents justified themselves was precisely that 
of Laban : It must not he so done in our country, 
to give the younger before the first-born. It is 
really the rule amongst the Armenians, that neither 
a younger son nor daughter be married, till their 
elder brother or sister have preceded them." 

It was in conversation with an Armenian of 
Smyrna that this fact was related to me. I natu- 
rally exclaimed, " Why, that is just the deception 
which was practised upon Jacob ! " " What de- 
ception ? " he exclaimed. — As the Old Testament 
is not yet translated into any language with which 
the Arminians are familiar, he was ignorant of the 
story. Upon giving him a narration of Jacob's 
marriage, as it is related Gen. xxix. he assented 
to it at once, as a circumstance in no respect 
improbable. 

I was once present at the solemnization of ma- 
trimony amongst the Armenians ; and some recol- 
lections of it may tend to throw light on this and 
other passages of Scripture. The various festivities 
attendant on these occasions continue for three 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 209 

days ; and during the last night the marriage is 
celebrated. I was conducted to the house of the 
bride, where I found a very large assemblage of 
persons. The company was dispersed through 
various rooms ; reminding me of the directions of 
our Saviour, in regard to the choice of the lower- 
most rooms at feasts. On the ground floor, 1 
observed that the persons convened were of an 
inferior order of the community, whilst in the upper 
rooms were assembled those of higher rank. 

The large number of young females who were 
present, naturally reminded me of the wise and 
foolish virgins in our Saviour's Parable. These 
being friends of the bride, the virgins, her com- 
panions (Ps. xlv. 14), had come to meet the bride- 
groom. 

It is usual for the bridegroom to come at mid- 
night ; so that, literally, at midnight the cry is 
made, Behold, the bridegroom cometh ! go ye out to 
meet him: (Matt. xxv. 6.) But, on this occasion, 
the bridegroom tarried: it was two o'clock before 
he arrived. 

The whole party then proceeded to the Armenian 
Church, where the Bishop was waiting to receive 
them ; aod there the ceremony was completed, 



210 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 



GENESIS, XXXI. 34. 

Now Rachel had taken the images, and put them in the camel's 
furniture, and sat upon them. 

Is not the camel's furniture the large seat, or 
pack-saddle, which we observe invariably upon the 
back of camels ? When taken off, at the close 
of the journey, it would equally afford a place of 
concealment for the images, and a convenient seat 
for Rachel. 

JUDGES, IX. 53. 

And a certain woman cast a piece of a millstone upon Abime- 
lech's head, and all to break his skull. 

The fate of Pyrrhus was altogether similar. 
" The Argives did not receive Pyrrhus ; but he 
fell before the wall ; a certain old woman, as it 
seems, having thrown a tile, from above, on his 
head." (Strabo, lib. viii.) 

JUDGES, XII. 6. 

Then said they unto him, Say now Shibboleth : and he said, 
Sibboleth ; for he could not frame to pronounce it right. 

The Greeks have not the sound sh in their lan- 
guage : hence they are liable to be detected, like 
the Ephraimites. I was struck with this circum- 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 211 



stance, in learning Turkish from a Greek tutor. 
Pasha, he pronounced Pasa ; shimdi, he called 
simdi; Dervish, Der vis : &c. Shibboleth he would, 
of course, pronounce Sibboleth. 

RUTH, II. 4. 

And, Behold, JBoaz came from Bethlehem, and said unto the 
reapers, The Lord be with you ! And they answered him, 
The Lord bless thee! 

Say to a Turk, according to custom, " May 
your morning be propitious ! " he replies, " May 
you be the pledge of God!" Ask a Turk, " Is 
your health good?" he answers, " Glory be to 
God!" Salute him, as you pass him rapidly in 
travelling, he exclaims, " May God be merciful 
unto you!" At parting, he addresses you, "To 
God I commend you!" and is answered, " May 
God be with you !" 

2 KINGS, III. 11. 

Here is Elisha, the son of Shaphat, which poured water on 
the hands of Elijah, 

The Oriental method of washing is universally 
different from that practised in the West. Nowhere 
is water previously poured into a basin; but the 
servant pours water, from a pitcher, upon the 
hands of his master. The custom of washing hands 
before dinner prevails also to this day. The servant 



212 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 

goes round, to all the guest, with a pitcher, and 
a vessel to receive the water falling from the hands, 
and performs the office here attributed to Elisha. 
The same service is repeated when the repast is 
ended. 

PSALM, LXXX. 13. 

The boar out of the wood doth waste it, and the wild beast 
of the field doth devour it. 

My friend, the Rev. Mr. Leeves, was proceeding, 
in the dusk of the evening, from Constantinople 
to Therapia. Passing a vineyard, he observed an 
animal of large size rushing forth from amongst 
the vines, crossing the road, and taking to flight 
with great precipitation. The Greek surigee who 
was riding first, exclaimed, Tovpovvi, Tovpovn, " Wild- 
boar ! wild-boar!" — and really it proved a wild- 
boar, who was retreating from the vineyards to 
the woods. " What has the wild-boar to do in 
the vineyard?" inquired Mr. Leeves. "Oh!" 
said the surigee, " 'tis the custom of the wild-boars 
to frequent the vineyards, and to devour the 
grapes. And it is astonishing what havoc a wild- 
boar is capable of effecting during a single night. 
What with eating, and what with trampling under 
foot, he will destroy an immense quantity of 
grapes." 

The propriety of the image in the 12th verse 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 213 



of this Psalm must be familiar to all persons who 
have visited grape countries — All they which pass 
by the way do pluck her: but the force and beauty 
of the succeeding figure, derived from a practice 
connected with the natural history of the wild-boar, 
has probably been seldom observed. 

With what fatal propriety does this affecting 
image retain its force, up to the present moment! 
Still is the vine of Israel broken down, ravaged, 
cut down, burnt with fire. 

The ferocity with which their Turkish masters 
torment and oppress the Jews may be compared, 
with melancholy aptitude, to the savage tearing 
of the boar, and the devouring of the wild beast. 
May those who interest themselves in the conver- 
sion and salvation of this ancient people repeat 
with fervour the Psalmist's petition: Return, we 
beseech Thee, O God of Hosts ! Look down from 
heaven ; and behold, and visit this vine ! 

ECCLESIASTES, XII. 6. 

The pitcher broken at the fountain, or the wheel brolien at 
the cistern. 

May there not be an allusion here to the method 
of procuring water for irrigating gardens, which 
is usual at Smyrna, and in many other places I 
A large wheel is fixed over the mouth of a well, 
in a vertical position. A number of pitchers are 



214 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 



attached to the wheel, in such a manner, that, by 
means of its revolution, which is effected by a 
horse, they are continually descending and filling-, 
and ascending and discharging themselves. 

ISAIAH, HI. 6. 

When a man shall take hold of his brother of the house of his 
father, saying, Thou hast clothing ; be thou our ruler, and 
let this ruin be under thy hand. 

Methonius, late steward of Ali Bey of Napoli di 
Romania, informed me that his master possessed 
forty-five gowns, valued, some at one thousand, 
others, at two, three, four, and four-and-a-half 
thousand piastres. Kiamil Bey of Corinth inherited 
from his father seventy gowns. The wardrobe of 
Lucullus is too well known to require citation. 

ISAIAH, XL. 6, 7. 

All flesh is grass, and all the goodliness thereof is as the flower 
of the field : the grass wither eth, the flower fadeth ; because 
the spirit of the Lord bloweth upon it : surely the people is 
grass. 

The very affecting images of Scripture, which 
compare the short-lived existence of man to the 
decay of the vegetable creation, are scarcely under- 
stood in this country. The verdure is perpetual in 
England. It is difficult to discover a time when it 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 215 



can be said, The grass wither eth. But let the 
traveller visit the beautiful Plain of Smyrna, or any 
other part of the East, in the mouth of May, and 
revisit it towards the end of June, and he will per- 
ceive the force and beauty of these allusions. In 
May, an appearance of fresh verdure and of rich 
luxuriance everywhere meets the eye ; the face of 
Nature is adorned with a carpet of flowers and 
herbage, of the most elegant kind. But a month or 
six weeks subsequently, how changed is the entire 
scene ? The beauty is gone ; the grass is withered ; 
the flower is faded ; a brown and dusty desert has 
taken place of a delicious garden. It is, doubtless, 
to this rapid transformation of Nature that the 
Scriptures compare the fate of man. 

EZEKIEL, II. 9, 10. . 

And when I looked, behold, an hand was sent unto me ; and, 
lo, a roll of a book was therein ; and he spread it before me : 
and it was written within and without. 

In the Monastery of Megaspelaion, I observed 
two beautiful rolls of this description. They con- 
tained the Liturgy of St. Chrysostom, and that attri- 
buted by the Greeks to St. James. You began to 
read by unfolding (avx%Tvi;a$ to fii^x'to*. Luke iv. 17) ; 
and you continued to read and to unfold, till at last 
you arrived at the stick to which the roll was 
attached. Then you turned the parchment round, 



216 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 

and continued to read on the other side of the roll : 
folding it gradually up, till you completed the 
Liturgy. Thus it was written within and without. 

NAHUM, III. 17. 

Thy crowned are as the locusts, and thy captains as the great 
grasshoppers, which camp in the hedges in the cold day, but 
when the sun ariseth they fiee away, and their place is not 
known where they are. 

Nothing could be more accurate than this descrip- 
tion of the grasshoppers. I observed this appear- 
ance, on a journey from Constantinople to Smyrna 
by land. Early in the morning, the locusts were 
seen congregated in the bushes, by the road-side, in 
a close mass ; which it would be difficult to express 
in better words than ' camping in the hedges.' They 
appeared to be assembled with all the precision of 
military tactics. But when the sun arose, they fled 
away, and their place was not known where they 
were. 

MATTHEW, IX. 9. 

And as Jesus passed forth from thence, he saw a man, named 
Matthew, sitting at the receipt of custom (or rather at the 
Custom-house, rekuviov)' 

Any person may see this ancient custom exempli- 
fied to this day at the gate of Smyrna. The mirigee, 
or collector of customs, sits there, in the house 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 217 

allotted him ; and receives the money which is due 
from various persons and commodities, entering 
into the city. The exactions and rude behaviour of 
these men are just in character with the conduct of 
the Publicans mentioned in the New Testament. I 
was myself, the very day before I left Turkey, 
grossly insulted by a man of this class, because he 
chose to suppose that the mule on which I was 
riding was liable to pay duty. A terrible fracas 
took place : in which some Franks, who came to my 
assistance tore the animal away from him by main 
force. Had I not been sailing from Smyrna the 
next morning, I might have felt it my duty to sum- 
mon the man before the Pasha, who would have 
bastinadoed him sufficiently. When men are guilty 
of such conduct as this, no wonder that they were 
detested in ancient times, as were the Publicans ; 
and in modern times, as are the Mirigees. 

MARK, II. 4. 

And when they could not come nigh unto him for the press, 
they uncovered the roof where he was : and when they had 
broken it up, they let down the bed wherein the sick of the 
palsy lay. 

Dr. Shaw has supposed that there was a difficulty 
in understanding this passage, and the correspond- 
ing one (Luke v. 19), in a literal manner ; and has 
therefore suggested an interpretation which appears 

L 



218 SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 



to me wholly inadmissible. When I lived in ^Egina, 
I used to look up, not unfrequently, at the roof 
above my head, and contemplate the facility with 
which the whole transaction might take place. The 
roof was constructed in this manner : — A layer of 
reeds, of a large species, was placed upon the rafters. 
On these a quantity of heather was strewed. Upon 
the heather, earth was deposited, and beat down 
into a compact mass. Now, what difficulty would 
there be, in removing, first the earth, then the 
heather, next the reeds ? Nor would the difficulty 
be increased, if the earth had a pavement of tiling 
(Kepd[xav) laid upon it. No inconvenience could 
result to the persons in the house, from the removal 
of the tiles and earth, for the heather and reeds 
would intercept any thing which might otherwise 
fall down, and would be removed last of all. 

LUKE, XV. 16. 

He would fain have filled his belly with the husks that the swine 
did eat. 

It has been remarked by Commentators, that the 
husks (Kepa-Tia) here mentioned are the fruit of the 
Ceratonia, or Carob-tree. The Modern Greeks 
still call this fruit by the same name, K^ana, and 
sell them in the markets. They are given to swine, 
but not rejected as food even by men. 



SCRIPTURAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 219 



LUKE, XVII. 2. 

It were better for him that a millstone were hanged about his 
neck, and he cast into the sea. 

To one who connects this passage with the idea 
of the large millstones employed in our country, 
there must appear something unnatural in the allu- 
sion. To attach such a millstone to the neck, would 
be to terminate life by another mode of death than 
by casting into the sea. There is here an evident 
reference to the millstones employed in the East, 
which are called hand-mills (x€ipo[Av\oi). These con- 
sist of an upper and nether millstone, playing into 
each other, and not more than a foot in diameter. 
They are turned round by two persons ; one sitting 
on one side, the other on the other — two women 
grinding at the mill. The corn, being thus ground 
between the stones, escapes, in the form of flour, 
through a hole in the lower millstone. In order to 
sink a person into the sea, nothing could be more 
suitable than to attach a millstone of this kind to 
his neck. The Greeks who were besieged in Athens 
had provided several hundred of these hand-mills. 



L 2 



Sournate 

OF THE 

REV. JOHN HARTLEY. 



Page 223. 




>ne 18 f 1833 . 



JOURNALS 

OF THE 

REV. JOHN HARTLEY. 



VISIT TO THE APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES, 

IN THE YEAR 1826. 



PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 

A MISSIONARY, who visits the Christian Commu- 
nities of the Mediterranean, finding the doctrines 
of Christianity either little understood by those 
who hold them, or greatly neglected and distorted, 
will feel it an unquestionable duty to illuminate 
as many persons as possible, with the primitive 
light of the Gospel ; and to teach them to discri- 
minate between its genuine doctrines and the false 
and injurious additions of men. This I have felt 
to be my principal object, during my sojourn in 
these countries ; and I can testify, with gratitude 



224 



VISIT TO THE 



to God, that, in every chief place which I have 
yet visited, I have found abundant opportunity 
of imparting such knowledge. Not a few persons 
have been led to disclaim those errors in which they 
have been educated, and to join me in religious 
worship. And of some I even venture to hope, 
that it has pleased God to accompany the acqui- 
sition of knowledge with a considerable change in 
their moral character. It is my earnest prayer that 
they may prove themselves true followers of Christ, 
by sincere devotedness of heart, and by exemplary 
sanctity of life. When I am engaged, therefore, 
with only a few individuals, in reading the Scrip- 
tures, in explaining and enforcing their meaning, 
and in united prayer, I feel myself to be employed 
in my chief Missionary duty, and it is my hope to 
spend much of my life in this manner. 

Having arrived at Smyrna at Christmas 1825, I 
was engaged till the end of March, partly in duties 
of this nature, and partly in studies subservient to 
my Missionary work. In April, I undertook the 
Journey of which the following pages contain a 
narrative, with the view of obtaining information 
on the religious state of these countries, and of 
promoting the dissemination of the Scriptures and 
other books, by engaging the co-operation of the 
Natives. Nor was I without hopes of effecting 
good, by conversation with individuals, and by the 
distribution of such books as I could take with me. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 225 



SMYRNA. 

The Church of Smyrna is represented (Rev. ii. 
8 — 11,) as contending with most severe sufferings — 
poverty, slander, and persecution : but Modern 
Smyrna is a far greater sufferer. The former things 
have passed away: the faithful Smyrnaeans have 
long since fought their battle and won their crown. 
But now the evils are of a different order, — apos- 
tacy, idolatry, superstition, infidelity, and their 
tremendous consequences. On whatever side we 
look, we meet only with what is calculated to ex- 
cite painful feelings. The religion now predomi- 
nant, was unknown in the days when Polycarp was 
martyred ; and, unlike the Paganism of Rome, 
which disappeared and fell before Christianity, it 
still maintains its seat, and lords it over those 
countries where the Redeemer suffered, and where 
His Gospel was first proclaimed. Rome is the 
only place of importance mentioned in the Scrip- 
tures which has not been for centuries under the 
Mahomedan yoke. 

The population of Smyrna has been estimated at 
100,000, and even more. But the practice of ex- 
aggerating the population, which is so general in 
this country, has extended, I conceive, to this enu- 
meration. I do not think that Smyrna contains 
many more than 75,000 inhabitants. Perhaps there 

L 5 



226 



VISIT TO THE 



may be 45,000 Turks, 15,000 Greeks, 8000 Arme- 
nians, 8000 Jews, and less than 1000 Europeans. 
The Mosques are more than twenty. The Greeks 
have three Churches ; the Armenians, one ; the 
Latins, two ; the Protestants, two. The Jews have 
several Synagogues. 

Mr. J owett has given us an interesting account 
of the Greeks in these parts, in his " Christian 
Researches in the Mediterranean." I regret to 
say, that, at present, a cloud has darkened that 
pleasing picture. The Universities of Scio and 
Haivali, which promised to be the cradle of Gre- 
cian Learning and Religion, have been destroyed ; 
and a check has been given to Education, which 
there are but slender hopes to see repaired. Smyrna 
has participated in the general miseries of Greece. 
No longer do we find CEconomus giving instruction 
to his young countrymen ; and in vain do we look 
for any institution which is calculated to assist the 
studies of the rising population. I am happy, how- 
ever, to remark that the " Evangelical School" 
still exists, an institution, which owes its perpe- 
tuity to English protection, and which, if it be not 
calculated to lead the pupil into the field of exten- 
sive knowledge, prevents him at least from being 
sunk in utter ignorance. I had the pleasure of 
frequent intercourse with the Master of this School, 
and found him one of the most liberal Ecclesiastics 
whom I have met with in the Eastern Communion. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 227 

The number of his pupils is about 150 ; but they 
are all very young-, and their education is little 
more than elementary. In addition to this esta 
blishment, the Greek Youths of Smyrna have no 
other means of acquiring knowledge, than what is 
furnished by very inferior Day Schools, and by 
private instruction. 1 

Smyrna will ever be to the Christian a most 
interesting spot. The conflict which was here main- 
tained was one of no common description. It was 
not only Polycarp himself, who was the gainer by 
his sufferings : on the firmness of the Christian 
Martyrs depended, under Divine Providence, the 
transmission of the truth to the latest generations. 
Had they yielded to the fury of their foes, and 
denied the Lord who bought them, we should have 
been still immersed in the ignorance of our fore- 
fathers, — without God and without hope in the 
world. We do well, then, to cherish the memory 
of these faithful Servants of God. It is just for 
us to bless the Most High, for His grace bestowed 
upon them. I must confess that I tread the ground 
which has been signalized by the death of a Chris- 
tian Martyr, with unspeakably more delight than 
I should visit the Plain of Marathon. Here was 
a conflict, not for the liberty which is merely co- 
existent with the span of human life, but for a 

' The Schools of the Rev. Mr. Brewer have been established since the 
above was written, and have been remarkably successful. 



228 



VISIT TO THE 



freedom which is eternal ! Here — without arms, 
without allies — the world and its god were van- 
quished ! Here was honour won — not that empty 
shadow which fallen man admires, but that exceeding 
and eternal weight of glory, which God has prepared 
for His faithful servants. 

FROM SMYRNA TO EPHESUS. 

March 28, 1826 — We entered on our Journey 
this afternoon. I am favoured with a companion in 
the Rev. Mr. Arundell, British Chaplain at Smyrna, 
and Rector of Landolph in Cornwall. The rest 
of our party consists of Mehmet, a Janissary of the 
English Consulate ; Milcon, an Armenian, the 
Surigee, or, in other words, the man who provides 
and takes charge of the horses ; Mustapha, a Turk, 
who gives help to Milcon ; and Nicolas, a native 
of Thessaly, my own servant. 

The immediate environs of Smyrna are interesting, 
from the thick groves of cypress whieh adorn, with 
pensive beauty, the Turkish Burial-grounds. Chris- 
tians might learn an advantageous lesson from the 
attention of the Turks to their places of interment. 
I know of no churchyards, in England, which will 
bear a comparison with the cemeteries of Smyrna. 

Close to Smyrna, we were gratified with the 
improvements of Suleyman Aga ; but, afterwards, 
observed nothing which merits attention. After a 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 229 

ride of little more than two hours, we arrived at 
Sebdikioi, and spent the night at the country-house 
of Mr. ArundelL In this village there are three 
summer retirements, possessed by opulent European 
Families resident in Smyrna. A Missionary would 
find it an excellent retreat during' the heat of sum- 
mer ; and would here, not only be able to obtain 
that retirement for devotional exercises which is 
so important to a Christian, but would find abundant 
opportunity of usefulness by his intercourse with 
the Greeks of the village. The number of Greek 
houses is estimated at 300 : the Turks have 40, with 
one Mosque. 

March 29, 1826 — We have had a most perilous 
journey to-day. On leaving Sebdikioi, the clouds 
threatened rain ; but transient gleams of sunshine 
emboldened us to proceed. We had not advanced 
far before the rain overtook us ; nor could we for 
several hours find any other shelter except what was 
afforded amidst the ruins of Olanizzi. This was, a 
few years ago, a flourishing Greek Village * but, 
since the Revolution, a party of Turks passing that 
way utterly destroyed it ; the very trees have not 
escaped the fire. After leaving it, the rain de- 
scended upon us with more fury than ever. 

During the former part of the day we passed 
some moderate elevations ; but afterwards we 
entered on one of those immense plains, for which 
Asia Minor is celebrated. Our first essay on this 



230 



VISIT TO THE 



extensive level was of an appalling description. 
For full a quarter of a mile, we had to contend with 
a terrible morass : perceiving", however, the Janis- 
sary pushing on manfully, I followed him ; and, at 
length, after continual sinking and plunging, we 
emerged upon firmer ground. 

About two o'clock, we arrived at a miserable hovel, 
in which we were glad to obtain shelter and spend 
the remainder of the day and the whole of the night. 
The owner is a poor negro. He informs us that his 
hut is called " the Arab's Coffee-house." Here we 
are surrounded by smoking Turks ; the rain pene- 
trates through the roof, while we have to spread our 
mattresses on a dirty floor ; and, what is most 
shocking to European delicacy, we are excessively 
annoyed by the vermin, always met with in such 
situations: yet we find cause of gratitude in the 
protection we enjoy. 

March 30, 1826 — This morning, we had a ride 
over the plain, rendered more agreeable by the 
contrast of yesterday's difficulties. We left a small 
village to the left, which has received the name 
of Fregata, from some fancied resemblance which 
it bears to the hull of a frigate. On the right, we 
saw, shortly afterwards, the remains of the Ancient 
Metropolis: near them is the Village of Toarbali. 
The scenery here is exceedingly beautiful. On the 
right is Mount Gallesus, clothed in many parts with 
beautiful forests, and in some places exhibiting 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 231 



stupendous precipices ; and the plain through which 
you travel has been called, by Van Egmont, " one 
of the most delicious in the world." On the other 
side is the Pagasean Lake of antiquity : even at 
this season, we saw a considerable sheet of water in 
that direction, and in winter the greater part of the 
plain is inundated. We passed through a beautiful 
defile, having lofty mountains on both sides, and 
the River Caister flowing through the valley. The 
Caister is of course highly calculated to gratify those 
who remember the simile of Homer. 1 It added also 
to my pleasure, though I did not observe any of 
the swans he describes, to notice great numbers 
of storks, stalking about upon the banks, with that 
majestic gait which is natural to them. 



EPHESUS. 

We reached Aiasaluck about half-after one o'clock. 
It was with feelings of no common interest, that my 
eye caught, from a distance, the Aqueduct and the 
Castle ; and, with still greater delight, that I after- 
ward proceeded to examine the Ruins. Ephesus 
had, at one period, extended to Aiasaluck ; but the 
principal ruins of that celebrated city are a mile 

1 Tav wctt' opvlBccv irere^vav eOvea itoXXa, 
Xijy£v, rj yeo&vwv, r\ kvkvvv SovX^oSe/oajv, 

Iliad. B. 459. 



232 



VISIT TO THE 



distant. At this place we see chiefly the ruins of the 
Mahomedan Town, which flourished for a time, after 
the destruction of the other ; and had been erected, 
in a great measure, by the spoils which it furnished- 
Innumerable are the Inscriptions which are lying 
about, in disorder or neglect : or which are built 
into the Aqueduct and the Turkish structures. 

No ruin here struck me so much as the large 
Mosque, which some Travellers have ventured to 
suppose the Church of St. John. The front of the 
building is reckoned one of the finest specimens of 
Saracenic architecture ; and in the interior are 
some stupendous columns, which, there is no reason 
to doubt, once graced the celebrated Temple of 
Diana. 

I cannot describe the feelings which came over 
my mind, on viewing the Mosque, the Castle, and 
the multitude of ruins which are strewed on every 
side. What a scene of desolation ! With the 
utmost truth and feeling has it been observed, by a 
celebrated traveller — " It is a solemn and most 
forlorn spot ! And, at night, when the mournful 
cry of the jackal is heard on the mountain, and the 
night-hawk and the shrill owl (named, from its 
note, ' Cucuvaia') are flitting around the ruins, 
the scene awakens the deepest sensations of melan- 
choly." I was also much struck to observe, how 
the stork appears, at present, to claim possession 
of these ancient edifices. You see this bird perch- 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 233 



ing, in all directions, upon the summits of the 
buildings, or hovering round them in the air, or 
fixing its immense nest, like the capital of a co- 
lumn, on the large masses of ruins. As for the 
stork, the ruins of Ephesus are her house. There 
is a great peculiarity in the note of this bird : it 
reminds the hearer of the sound of a watchman's 
rattle. 

A large archway leading to the castle is generally 
called the Gate of Persecution ; from the supposi- 
tion that the sculpture attached to it represents the 
sufferings of the Primitive Christians. It is how- 
ever believed, with more reason, that nothing else 
is signified than Achilles dragging the dead body 
of Hector behind his chariot. The chief part of 
these figures was removed some time ago, and is 
said to have been sold for an immense price. 

We spent the night in one of the miserable cot- 
tages which are scattered amidst the ruins. These 
are all tenanted by Turks. We found only a single 
Greek inhabiting the Village of Aiasaluck. In a 
Missionary point of view, Ephesus offers now no 
attractions : her ancient Church has vanished — the 
candlestick has been removed — and even the Turks 
who dwell at hand are few in number. We heard 
of a Greek village at no great distance, containing 
400 houses : but there is reason to believe that the 
number is overstated. 

Before retiring to rest, Mr. Arundell and myself, 



234 - VISIT TO THE 

with Nicolas, united in prayer, in Romaic, in pre- 
sence of the Turks. We adopted this resolution, 
not without reflection. Few Christians, perhaps, 
have made a journey without experiencing the ob- 
stacles to prayer, which arise from want of retire- 
ment. These difficulties are, of course, multiplied 
in a country like Asia Minor, where we are almost 
constantly surrounded by strangers. While, then, 
every Christian would gladly yield a literal obe- 
dience, whenever it is practicable, to the precept of 
our Lord — Thou, when thou prayest, enter into thy 
closet, and, when thou hast shut thy door, pray to 
thy Father, which is in secret — we found it most 
proper, whenever this duty was impossible, to imi- 
tate the Turks themselves. Mahomedans are not 
ashamed to pray publicly — in the open fields, on the 
high road, and by the banks of rivers : and I have 
heard of an instance in which they came to the 
conclusion, "The English have no prayer;" be- 
cause they never witnessed, on a journey, the out- 
ward posture of supplication. Our practice, there- 
fore, we hope, had two good effects. It was placing 
an obstacle to the neglect of devotion ; and it was 
a silent lesson to the Turks, that the English are 
not without prayer, and that they pray, like them- 
selves, without the use of pictures or crucifixes. 

March 31, 1826. — This morning we crossed the 
plain, to the Ruins of Ephesus. One of the first 
objects which attract notice, are the numerous places 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 235 

of burial which are observed on the declivity of 
Mount Prion. They consist of excavations in the 
side of the hill, arched with stonework. It is here 
that, tradition informs us, Timothy was buried ; and 
it is to this place that superstition assigns the story 
of the Seven Sleepers. We surveyed with plea- 
sure the Stadium ; but nothing at Ephesus was so 
interesting as the remains of the theatre. It was 
here, that the multitude collected by Demetrius 
and his craftsmen excited the uproar which threw 
the whole city into confusion; and the situation 
of the building affords illustration of that remark- 
able occurrence. 

The Theatre, like other ancient structures of the 
same name, is seated on a steep declivity ; the seats 
having been formed, in successive tiers, on the slope 
of a lofty hill, and the whole building being open 
to the sky. I have no doubt that upwards of thirty 
thousand persons could have conveniently seated 
themselves in the Theatre of Ephesus. Before 
them, they had a view of the most striking descrip- 
tion. Across the Market-place, and at no great 
distance, they beheld that splendid Temple, which 
was one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and 
which was dedicated to the great goddess Diana, 
whom all Asia and the world worshipped. There 
can be little doubt that Demetrius would avail 
himself of the sight of this splendid object, to in- 
flame to the highest pitch the passions of the mul- 



235 



VISIT TO THE 



titude. We may imagine their eyes fixed on this 
famous Temple, and their hands directed towards it, 
while they all, with one voice, about the space of 
two hours, cried out, Great is Diana of the Ephe- 
sians ! The very situation of the Theatre would 
add to the tumult. On the left-hand, and at no 
great distance, are the steep and rocky sides of 
Mount Corissus ; forming a natural and lofty ram- 
part, which completely shuts out all prospect, in that 
quarter. The shouts of 20,000 persons, striking 
against this mountain, would be re-echoed with 
loud reverberations, and not a little augment the 
uproar. The high situation of the Theatre on 
Mount Prion, accounts also for the ease with which 
such an immense multitude was assembled. From 
every part of Ephesus, on that side, the inhabitants 
would have a view of the people rushing into the 
Theatre, and taking their seats on that lofty eleva- 
tion; and would, of course, themselves run with 
impetuosity, to see and hear the cause of the 
assembly. Under these circumstances, it is by no 
means matter of wonder, that the attention of the 
Town- Clerk was excited, and that he felt himself 
called on to interpose his authority. 

Contrasting the state of Ephesus as we found it 
with the circumstances just alluded to, there was 
sufficient room for astonishment at the mighty 
change. The plough has passed over the site of the 
city ; and we saw the green corn growing, in all 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 237 

directions, amidst the forsaken ruins. "While we 
were in the Theatre, two large eagles perched at a 
small distance above us, and seemed to gaze on us 
with wonder, as if astonished at the face of man. 
The lines of Cowper seemed most appropriate : — 

They are so unacquainted with man, 
Their tameness is shocking to me. 

From the Theatre we passed into the " Agora," 
or Forum. This public place was just below the 
Theatre ; and it was here that the law-proceedings 
were going forward, to which the Town-Clerk re- 
ferred Demetrius and his companions. 1 I shall not 
dwell on the buildings, which have been so often 
described by travellers — the supposed ruins of 
Diana's Temple, the Corinthian Temple, the Odeum, 
and the Gymnasium — nor on the great beauty of the 
surrounding scenery. We may notice, however, 
the supposed ruins of a Christian Church, which 
may have been either the Church of St. John or 
that of the Virgin. We saw, at the east end, the 
Cross of the Knights of Rhodes, engraved on one 
of the stones ; and " here was perhaps held," we 
said, " the General Council, so well known in 
Ecclesiastical History." 

On leaving Ephesus, my mind was very naturally 
occupied with the important Epistle which was once 

1 'Ayopaioi (^txepca), The days for the administration of justice. 



238 



VISIT TO THE 



addressed to the Angel of this Church : Rev. ii. 
1 — 7. For a Missionary, that Epistle contains most 
useful instruction. It tells him there are some who 
call themselves Apostles, but are liars. What, then, 
would constitute me a false apostle ? Should I 
disseminate other doctrine than that which God 
has revealed — should I add any inventions of men, 
or hold back any truths of God — or should I pro- 
pagate the Truth itself from improper motives or in 
an improper manner — I should, unquestionably, be 
a deceitful worker, even though I might assume 
the appearance of an angel of light. May the awful 
language of Inspiration ever fall with weight upon 
our ears, and be most deeply impressed on our 
hearts — Though we, or an angel from heaven, preach 
any other Gospel unto you than that which we have 
preached unto you, let him be accursed I and may 
the Spirit of Truth so fully enlighten the mind and 
so powerfully influence the heart of every Mis- 
sionary, that we may be workmen that need not to 
be ashamed, rightly dividing the word of Truth ! 
The Epistle teaches also every individual Christian, 
that it is possible to exhibit some brilliant parts of 
the Christian character, and to be distinguished for 
labour, for patience, for perseverance, and for 
other very excellent qualities, and yet to have a 
fatal malady commencing its attacks upon us, which 
threatens the very ruin of all our hopes — Never- 
theless, I have somewhat against thee, because thou 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 239 

hast left thy first love ! How few there are, who 
do not feel the charge too applicable to themselves ! 
How few, of whom it could be remarked, as of St. 
Augustine, " He never left his first love ! " But, 
unless we call to remembrance the station from 
whence we are fallen, and repent, and do the first 
works, that intimation of the Divine displeasure, 
which is here given, will not fail to be accomplished 
— J will come unto thee quickly, and will remove thy 
candlestick out of his place, except thou repent. 
The neglect of such an admonition, in the case 
of an individual, would involve consequences 
analogous to those which are more peculiarly 
threatened against a whole community : but, when 
an entire body of Christians, when a Christian 
Church, becomes guilty of this sin, the indignation 
of God is exhibited in the face of the world itself 
At Ephesus we find, at present, only one individual 
who bears the name of Christ ! — and where, in the 
whole region, do we discover any semblance of Pri- 
mitive Christianity? The country once favoured 
with the presence of St. Paul, of Timothy, and 
St. John, is now in the situation of those lands, of 
which it is said, Darkness covers the earth, and 
gross darkness the people — He, then, that hath an 
ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the 
Churches. 



240 



VISIT TO THE 



FROM EPHESUS TO LAODICEA. 

After leaving Ephesus, we passed through a very 
beautiful country. We first ascended a romantic 
glen, down which was flowing a pellucid rivulet: 
we were surrounded on all sides by the oleander and 
the finest shrubs and trees. In the course of the 
ascent, we passed under the arches of an ancient 
Aqueduct. The whole of the ride, till we ap- 
proached Enek-bazar, was through a hilly country, 
adorned by woods, romantic streams, and every 
thing calculated to amuse and delight the traveller. 
After resting a short time at a coffee-house, called 
Balatchick, where we observed many fragments of 
columns, we descended toward the plain on which 
Magnesia-on-the-Mceander (so called to distinguish 
it from Magnesia-by-Sipylus) was situated. The 
ground around the town had rather a marshy and 
threatening aspect, but we passed it without diffi- 
culty, and proceeded to examine with attention the 
ruins of this ancient city. The distance from 
Ephesus is seven hours. 

It is only recently that Mr. Hamilton has dis- 
covered, that these remains, called, by the Turks, 
Enek-bazar, are the relics of the Ancient Magnesia. 
They strike every visitor with surprise. The re- 
mains, in particular, of the Temple of Diana Leu- 
cophryne are sufficient to confirm the remark of 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 241 

Strabo, that, in some respects, this building was 
superior to the temple of the Ephesian Diana itself. 
Magnesia is, at present, without inhabitants. A 
Turkish Mosque is standing; .but we did not ob- 
serve any village within the distance of two or three 
miles. 

This is one of the cities which was presented 
by Artaxerxes to Themistocles, on that celebrated 
Athenian's taking refuge in his dominions. It was 
here that Themistocles had his residence ; and here, 
in all probability, he closed his life. It would be 
scarcely supposed probable, that Themistocles affords 
an example for the imitation of Missionaries : 
Erasmus has, however, discovered a circumstance 
in his life, which he has proposed as an incentive 
to Missionary Undertakings. In contending against 
the difficulty which results from the labour of 
learning foreign tongues, he reminds us that The- 
mistocles undertook to learn the language of Persia 
when he was already advanced in years, in order 
that he might render himself useful to the King, 
his patron : and should those, who are aiming to 
impart to their fellow- creatures the greatest benefit 
which can be conferred on man, shrink from their 
undertaking, on account of a difficulty which The- 
mistocles, and, we may add, such a multitude of 
other individuals, actuated by very inferior motives, 
have overcome ? This, to the best of my recollec- 
tion, is the purport of the remark. I will add, for 

M 



242 



VISIT TO THE 



the sake of those who may have felt themselves 
deterred by the obstacle in question, that the im- 
pediment is much less than it actually appears. A 
man, who is present in a land where every one 
around him speaks a new language, finds himself 
very soon capable of conversing, even on religious 
subjects. It is a mistake to suppose that years 
must pass away, before he can render himself useful. 
I am persuaded that a Missionary may enter on 
some, at least, of his duties almost immediately on 
his arrival ; and that he may hope also, with good 
reason, for the Divine Blessing on his endeavours. 
Is not the distribution of the Scriptures a most 
useful part of his office? and what prevents him, 
if his lot is cast in a land where the Scriptures can 
be understood, from engaging in this service the 
very day that he sets foot in that land ? There is 
something, besides, extremely interesting in the 
acquisition of a living tongue. Let no one compare 
the tedious study of a dead language, with the life, 
the excitement, and the interest of accents, which 
are sounding in his ears on every side. 

We have good evidence that Magnesia became a 
partaker of the blessings of Christianity in the 
earliest times. An Epistle of Ignatius to the 
Church established there is still extant ; and it gives 
us reason to belive, that the genuine spirit of Chris- 
tianity was at that time exerting its influence among 
its members. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 248 

In proceeding 1 to the Village of UzunJcum, we 
forded the Lytheus, a broad but shallow stream, and 
entered on the beautiful and extensive plain of the 
Mseander. We found a considerable number of 
Greeks in the village; and the Aga allotted us a 
lodging in one of their best houses. They were 
principally natives of Cyprus, whom the changes 
occasioned by the Greek Revolution had transferred 
to their present abode. I was exceedingly de- 
lighted by my intercourse with these poor people ; 
and had an excellent opportunity of addressing 
them on the most important subjects. They paid 
great attention to my remarks ; and, after I had 
concluded, Nicolas read to them, for a considerable 
time, from the New Testament. They could not 
themselves read; but we left a Testament and a 
variety of Tracts for the Priest, who was at a 
distance; and they promised to engage him to read 
them in their hearing. 

We were much affected to observe the great 
distress of the Greeks in this place : they were full 
of inquiries concerning the war, and had great ap- 
prehensions for their lives. The Greeks in the 
Turkish Empire are really in circumstances not 
unlike those which have befallen the Jews — The 
Lord shall give thee a trembling hearty and failing 
of eyes, and sorrow of mind ; and thy life shall hang 
in doubt before thee ; and thou shalt fear day and 
night, and shalt have none assurance of thy life : 

M 2 



244 



VISIT TO THE 



Deut. xxviii. 65, 66. Notwithstanding the igno- 
rance and superstition of these poor Greeks, I have 
found it quite a relief to meet with them, after 
so much intercourse with Mahomedans. In a 
Christian we recognise a brother, even though he 
may have lost much that is important and valuable 
in his religion. I never yet found a Greek who was 
not acquainted with our Lord's declaration, Him 
that cometh to me, I will in no wise cast out. 

April 1, 1826 — We commenced our journey up 
the vale of the Maeander. The river itself was at 
some distance on our right : on the left we had 
Mount Messogis ; and, all along its base, a suc- 
cession of small hills, thrown into a thousand fan- 
tastic forms. We crossed several streams descending 
from the mountains ; and one of them so swollen, 
that it had almost carried away our baggage-horse. 
Two or three large villages lay in our route, and the 
largest and most regular encampment of Turcomans 
which I have yet seen. The tents of these wan- 
derers were, as usual, all black ; a circumstance 
which, viewed in connexion with their great neat- 
ness and regularity, may perhaps be deemed an 
illustration of Canticles, i. 5 : I am black but comely, 
O ye daughters of Jerusalem! as the tents of Kedar, 
as the curtains of Solomon. It ought to be added, 
that, in Asia Minor, the tents of the Turcomans 
only are of this colour. 1 

1 This passage of Canticles has given rise to a diversity of opinions : see 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 245 



For about an hour previous to our arrival at 
Ghuzel-hissar, every thing- indicated the approach 
to a large town. The country was finely cultivated, 
and the road most excellent : on each side were 
fences, kept in the best order. The scene alto- 
gether was so similar to many parts of England, 
that, were it not for the difference of costume, 
an Englishman might fancy himself in his own 
country. 

After seven hours from Uzunkum, we arrived at 
the large town of Ghuzel-hissar, capital of the 
Pashalic of Aideen. It is a place of considerable 
importance. Mr. Pascali, the English Vice- Consul, 
gave me the following information concerning it : — 
The number of houses he estimates at 12,000 : one 
hundred camel-loads of grain are daily consumed by 
the poor : the Mosques are 16 or 18 : the Greeks 
and Armenians have each a Church : the Jews are 
3000, and possess ten Synagogues, of which five or 
six are public ; and there are eight or ten European 
families. The productions of the country are, grain, 
legumes, silk, wool, flax, hemp, honey, wax, oil, 
cattle, wine, figs, cotton, valonia, &c. 

At present, a Mutselim resides at Ghuzel-hissar, 
as Representative of the Pasha. Soon after our 

Harmer's Observations, Chap. ii. Observ. 36. It must be acknowledged, that, 
to the tents of the Turcomans, viewed singly, it would be often difficult to 
ascribe the attribute of comeliness; but, as forming part of a prospect, they 
are a very beautiful object. 



246 



VISIT TO THE 



arrival, a fine young Turk, one of his Officers, 
called upon us at the khan, in order to offer his 
services in case we wished to visit his master. This 
young- man was quite a gentleman in his manners ; 
and, being a native of the Morea, spoke Modern 
Greek extremely well. As we anticipated only 
inconvenience, rather than advantage, from the 
visit which he proposed, we declined his kind offer. 
Travelling, as we were, with a Janissary and a Fir- 
man, we were happily under no necessity of wasting 
time in visits of ceremony. 

April 2, 1826 — We visited the hill which hangs 
over the town, and which exhibits various remains 
of Ancient Tralles. From this elevation a most 
magnificent view presents itself. Beneath is the 
large town of Ghuzel-hissar, adorned with all its 
mosques and minarets : around, extending to an 
immense distance, is the beautiful plain of the 
Meeander, with the river pursuing its mazy course 
through the midst : beyond, are majestic mountains. 
I wonder not at the Turkish name of the town, 
Ghuzel-hissar, or " Beautiful Castle." 

The Church is an extremely dark building : on 
our visiting it, one of the Priests was eager to 
obtain our books, and I presented the Bishop and 
himself with such as I could spare. 1 We must take 

1 The name of a Primitive Bishop of Tralles has been handed down to us 
with honour. This was Polybius, who paid a visit to St. Ignatius at Smyrna, 
whilst he was on his way to Rome. (See the Epistle of St. Ignatius to the 

TraUians.) 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



247 



effectual means for supplying the Christians of this 
large town with the Scriptures. The Greeks, ac- 
cording to the Bishop, occupy 300 houses. 

We received much kind attention here, from two 
young men who are Roman Catholics. To one 
of them I presented a small religious work in 
Italian; certain, that the best recompence for fa- 
vours, is to aim at conferring at eternal benefit. 
He " loved Religion," he informed me, but he had 
i* no pleasure in religious books." 

We have found in the khan a very interesting 
Greek lad, who is one of the unfortunate Sciote 
Captives : he has been led to apostatize from the 
Religion of Christ, and to embrace the faith of 
Turkey. Nicolas spoke with him very plainly on 
this subject, and inquired his reasons for such a 
step. He pleaded compulsion ; and declared that 
it was his intention, as soon as his term of servitude 
was expired, to make his escape to the Islands, and 
to return to the Religion of Christ. He received 
a New Testament, and promised to read it. The 
market-day, I am sorry to say, is Sunday: and 
Christians appear to be as much engaged in its 
avocations as Mahomedans : — M y Sabbaths they 
have greatly polluted : Ezekiel xx. 13. 

The Turkish Village of Tchiosk is three hours- 
and-a-half from Ghuzel-hissar. Who ever ex- 
pected to find England in Asia Minor ! and yet 
the fine cultivation and the excellent road still 



248 



VISIT TO THE 



seem to persuade us that we are in our native 
country. We spent the night in a large coffee- 
house, surrounded, as usual, by smoking Turks. 
In one respect, I cannot but wish that the labouring 
orders in England were on a level with Mussul- 
mans. It would be happy for them if they were 
as free from habits of intoxication. Experience 
proves that coffee is incalculably better for the 
population of a country than intoxicating liquors. 

April 3, 1826. — This morning we passed through 
Sultan-hissar , the Ancient Nyssa. We found only 
two Greeks, strangers, from Mitylene. Including 
a deviation from our route, we were only five hours- 
and-a-half before we reached Nosli. This is a 
considerable place. The Greeks and Armenians 
have each a Church. After a ride of two hours 
more, we arrived at Cuijack, a large Turkish 
Village containing four Mosques. There are only 
three or four Greeks. To one of them I gave 
a New Testament. He estimated the number 
of houses at 3000. 

April 4. — We have now arrived in a country 
where a Frank is a curiosity : every one stares at 
us with surprise ; and some even come and examine 
our clothes, and try on our gloves. Nothing, howr 
ever, attracted so much attention as my writing 
with a lead pencil. An instrument of this descrip- 
tion had never, I conclude, been previously seen 
at Cuijack. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 249 

Soon after leaving this village, we discovered, 
on our right, what we had no doubt were the Ruins 
of Art I io ch-o n- ill e- Mcecm de r . A Theatre was dis- 
tinguishable; and the description of the country- 
people confirmed our supposition. It was impos- 
sible for us to examine the ruins, as they were on 
the other side of the river ; and we had no means 
of crossing over. 

After pursuing our journey for some time, we 
rested at a coffee-house on the bank of the Marau- 
der ; and, soon afterward, arrived at a ferry. The 
boat was of a singular construction, being, in form, 
an isosceles triangle. Here we passed over to the 
opposite bank. The Maeander is, in this place, a 
broad, deep, and rapid stream : it would be just the 
river for steam-boats : the current, I apprehend, 
would be too strong for other vessels. 

Advancing a little further, we observed hot- 
springs to our right, smoking as if the water 
boiled ; and marking the site of the Ancient Ca- 
roura. The water which ran from them, and which 
crossed our path, was very hot to the touch. On 
our left were the ruins of an ancient bridge. From 
this place we also discerned, at a considerable dis- 
tance, the site of the Ancient Hierapolis, pre- 
senting the appearance of two white spots on the 
side of a mountain. It is called, by the Turks, 
Pambouk-Kalesi, the " Cotton Castle." 

In the course of our journey to-day, we came 
M 5 



250 



VISIT TO THE 



gradually in sight of a majestic chain of mountains 
covered with snow, which opened upon us to the 
right ; this is Mount Cadmus. We reached Sara- 
kioi about three o'clock in the afternoon, having 
spent seven hours in travelling from Cuijack. Sa- 
rakioi is a wretched village, formed of mud houses. 
To towns of this description, which are numerous 
in Asia Minor, the language of the book of Job 
is strictly applicable (Job iv. 18, 19) : Behold, he 
put no trust in his servants; and his angels he 
charged with folly: how much less in them that 
dwell in houses of clay ! The situation of Sarakioi 
is so low, that I should suppose the whole neigh- 
bourhood must be a morass in winter. There is a 
considerable number of Greeks, and one Church. 

We were agreeably surprised to find here Pana- 
retos, Bishop of Philadelphia. He was engaged 
in making a tour of his diocese, and had already 
spent a few days at Sarakioi. When we first 
called on him, he was engaged in the performance 
of Evening Prayers with some of his attendants. 
It was to us a subject of surprise and sorrow, to 
observe the manner in which the Service was con- 
ducted. The hundreds of " Kyrie eleesons," are 
repeated with a celerity which is perfectly amazing: 
in fact, you hear, in general, nothing more than 
" Leeson," " leeson," leeson," " leeson/' — till the 
last utterance of the petition ; when, as if to make 
some amends for the haste of the preceding ex- 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 251 

pressions, you hear a full and round enunciation 
of " Kyrie eleeson." One of the causes of this 
neglect of decorum is, doubtless, to be found in 
the immense length of the Greek Service. I have 
heard of one of them, which actually continues 
five hours. 

I have never met with a Greek Ecclesiastic 
of more pleasing address than the Bishop of Phi- 
ladelphia. He is young, probably not more than 
thirty-five ; and exhibits an energy and warmth 
of character, which, under favourable circumstances, 
would lead, I should imagine, to very happy re- 
sults. I was sorry to find in him a degree of cold- 
ness on the subject of the Bible Society. He said 
that they had conversed on the subject in the Synod 
at Constantinople ; and I understood him that they 
considered the circulation of the Romaic Scriptures 
to be impracticable for the Church as a body, but 
that it might be left to the exertions of individuals. 
He also hinted his fears, that harm might result 
to the people, from an undirected use of the Scrip- 
tures. He brought forward, as an instance, the 
passage of St. Matthew (i. 25), And knew her not 
till she had brought forth her first-born. Here, 
he remarked, the common reader might be led to 
suppose that Mary did not remain a virgin after the 
birth of Christ, from the acceptation in which we 
at present take the word e«$, till. Past intercourse 
with Greeks had already taught me the inexpe- 



252 



VISIT TO THE 



diency and inutility of contending hastily on this 
subject. To the doctrine of the perpetual virginity 
of Mary they are bound by such adamantine pre- 
judices, that a Missionary will find it better to 
direct their attention to more important subjects, 
than hastily to shock their feelings on a point 
of minor importance. It was the parting advice, 
which I received from a well-meaning inhabitant 
of Ithaca, — i ' Attack not the perpetual virginity 
of the Panagia : " and, except when I have dis- 
cerned a previous preparation of mind, I have not 
deemed it advisable to say much on this subject. 
With these feelings, I did not contravene the idea 
of Panaretos ; but contented myself with shewing, 
that, whatever difficulties might be contained in 
the Scriptures, those points which were essential 
to salvation were obvious and intelligible. He 
very gladly received a New Testament and other 
books. 

In Sarakioi I saw the Oriental Church probably 
in its lowest state of depression. A miserable little 
room, in the public khan, had the name of a 
Church: and it was in one little better, in the 
opposite corner, that the Bishop of the Diocese was 
then residing. 

April 5, 1826. — This has been a most interesting 
day. I have visited the remains both of Hierapolis 
and Laodicea. We were four hours on our way 
from Sarakioi to Hierapolis. On the way, we came 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 253 

to an encampment of Turcomans, surrounded by 
immense herds of cattle. Being- ignorant of the 
road, we were desirous of engaging the services 
of one of the horde, as a guide. We had suc- 
ceeded, as we imagined, in regard to a person of 
this description, and he was already undertaking 
to conduct us : but his wife, speedily obtaining in- 
formation of his resolution, hurried from the tent, 
and, with loud clamours, insisted on his return. At 
first, he seemed regardless of her remonstrances : 
but she persevered with so much determination, 
even following him to a considerable distance, that 
at length he submitted, and we were obliged to 
pursue our journey without him. We were, of 
course, left to conjecture that female power is by no 
means on a low footing among the Turcomans. 

Before we reached the Lycus, we passed through 
two mud villages ; and having crossed the river on 
a wooden bridge, we found a third on the other 
side. The ride from Sarakioi to Hierapolis was 
attended with danger. We had to cross a terrific 
marsh. Our horses sunk to a great depth ; and 
one of them had scarcely strength to carry his rider 
through it. 

I cannot describe how much I was struck with 
Hierapolis. There are three objects, all of which 
cannot fail to arrest attention. One is, the superb 
situation of the city. It is placed on the slope 
of Mount Messogis, which rises behind, to a con- 



254 



VISIT TO THE 



siderable elevation. In front, is the vast plain 
of the Maeander: beyond, are stupendous moun- 
tains, covered half down their sides with brilliant 
snow. There are only two principal features in the 
landscape ; but though so few, they are grand be- 
yond description. The second object, which excites 
amazement, is the frozen cascades : by this name 
I denote the four or five cataracts, which have 
been petrified in their course, and which display 
the whiteness of the purest snow. I question if the 
world elsewhere exhibits so surprising an instance 
of this phenomenon. The appearance is precisely 
that of roaring cascades, having been metamor- 
phosed, in an instant, into Parian marble. The 
size, too, of these snow-white water-falls is such, 
that they are visible at an immense distance. The 
third subject of surprise is, the ruins of the city: 
we see the most magnificent remains of antiquity, 
covering an extent of three or four miles in cir- 
cumference — we wander among massy walls — we 
are surrounded by inscriptions, statuary, and co- 
lumns — we pass under stupendous arches — we re- 
pose on marble seats of the Theatre. The Theatre 
is certainly the most striking relic of the Ancient 
Hierapolis : not only the seats, but great part of the 
proscenium still remains. Such a spectacle speaks, 
in powerful language, the transient nature of earthly 
grandeur — See ivliat manner of stones, and what 
buildings, are these ! and yet a ruin little less than 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 255 

that of Jerusalem has befallen them : neither the 
beauty of its situation, nor the salubrity of its 
waters, nor the strength of its buildings, has pre- 
served Hierapolis from utter destruction. May we, 
then, ever set our affections on that heavenly resi- 
dence which is the only true Hierapolis ! May we 
be denizens of that city, which hath foundations, 
whose builder and maker is God! 

The works of God remain, though the labours 
of man have gone to decay. The waters, for which 
Hierapolis was famous, still retain their quality: we 
found them hot, even at some distance from their 
fountain ; and, having had our faces inflamed by 
the burning rays of the sun, it was refreshing and 
beneficial to bathe them in the tepid streams. 

To a Christian, Hierapolis is interesting, from 
the mention which is made of it in the Sacred 
Writings. In the Epistle to the Colossians (iv. 13,) 
St. Paul bears record to Epaphras, that he had 
great zeal for them in Hierapolis. Its vicinity to 
Laodicea and CoIosssb would naturally lead to the 
conclusion, that it enjoyed the privilege of the la- 
bours of Epaphras, at the same time with those two 
cities. It deserves also to be noticed, that the 
remains of two Churches are still visible. It is 
delightful, then, to reflect, that, amidst these ruins 
of idolatry and pleasure, is reposing the earthly 
part of many faithful Christians ; and that the last 
trumpet will call forth, from beneath the incrusta- 



256 



VISIT TO THE 



tions of Pambouk-Kalesi, many a glorified body, to 
heavenly mansions. At present, no Christian re- 
sides in the vicinity. There is only a miserable 
Turkish village, situated beneath the most eastern 
of the cascades. 



LAODICEA. 

From Hierapolis we directed our course toward 
another ancient city, which suggests, to the serious 
mind, topics of painful but of useful interest. I 
know of no part of the Sacred Scriptures which is 
more calculated to alarm the careless, than the 
Epistle to the Laodiceans, Rev. iii. 14 — 22. It is 
not merely the infidel, the profane, or the licentious, 
who find cause to tremble on reading these verses. 
Many, who have much that is amiable and moral in 
their deportment, are here brought under condemna- 
tion. Our Lord does not charge the Laodiceans 
with heinous crimes: He does not say, " Because 
thou dost not worship the Lord thy God — because 
thou dost not keep holy the Sabbath-day — because 
thou killest, committest adultery, or art living in 
open violation of every one of the Divine Com- 
mands: no! awful as are the guilt and danger 
of such a condition, there is another state, most 
odious in the eye of the Almighty — Because thou 
art neither cold nor hot — because thou art luke- 
warm — because thou say est , I am rich, and in- 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 257 

creased witli goods, and have need of nothing. Let 
us carefully attend to the condition of the Laodi- 
ceans. They were Christians : they were Christians 
who had a Creed uncorrupted by human additions, 
and correct according to the very model of Apos- 
tolic Preaching : nor, as just noticed, were they 
chargeable with any open deviation from the path 
of God's Commandments. But they were not 
zealous for Christ : they were precisely in the situa- 
tion of those who condemn earnestness and activity 
on the subject of eternal salvation; who are con- 
tinually misapplying the precept, Be not righteous 
overmuch ; and who consider themselves possessed 
of many qualities extremely valuable in the sight 
of God, while they scarcely understand or even 
condemn those who frequently employ terms of self- 
condemnation. They did not feel themselves ex- 
cited to any powerful efforts, by the contemplation 
of their Redeemer's love, or by the force of His 
example. Their conduct shewed no signs of striv- 
ing to enter in at the strait gate — of fighting the 
good fight of faith — of counting all things but loss 
for the excellency of the knowledge of Christ Jesus 
our Lord — of praying without ceasing. They did 
not love that Saviour, whose religion they professed 
to adopt, more than their father, their mother, and 
their life itself : nor could they comply with His 
strict language, Whosoever he be, of you, that 
forsaketh not all that he hath, he cannot be my 



258 



VISIT TO THE 



disciple. Our Lord declares, therefore, His indig- 
nation, in language the most expressive and alarm- 
ing — I will spue thee out of my mouth. Happy for 
those who feel the force of these admonitions and 
warnings! To such, promises are annexed, no less 
encouraging than the rebuke is alarming — Behold! 
I stand at the door and knock. If any man hear 
my voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, 
and will sup with him, and he with me — To him 
that overcometh will I grant to sit with me in my 
throne ; even as I also overcame, aud am set down 
with my Father in His throne. 

The first object which attracts attention at Laodi- 
cea is the great number of sarcophagi. In these, I 
reflected, the material part of many Laodicean 
Christians has returned, " earth to earth — ashes to 
ashes — dust to dust : " their spirits have long since 
given account of the manner in which they availed 
themselves of the faithful admonitions of the Apo- 
calypse. 

The city of Laodicea was seated on a hill of mo- 
derate height, but of considerable extent. Its ruins 
attest, that it was large, populous, and splendid. 
There are still to be seen an Amphitheatre, a 
Theatre, an Aqueduct, and many other buildings. 
But its present condition is in striking conformity 
with the rebuke and threatening of God. Not a 
single Christian resides at Laodicea ! No Turk 
even has a fixed residence on this forsaken spot. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 259 

Infidelity itself must confess, that the menace of the 
Scriptures has been executed. 

It. was a subject of interest to me, to find that the 
Amphitheatre, which still remains, was built not 
much later than the time when St. John wrote the 
Apocalypse : nor could I help inquiring, whether 
theatrical amusements might not have been one of 
the principal causes which induced the decay of 
spirituality at Laodicea. We know, from the 
passionate fondness of the Ancients for these sports, 
and also from the powerful condemnation of them 
by the Primitive Fathers, that they must have been 
a source of serious temptation to the early Chris- 
tians. Unhappy was the hour, when the Youth 
of either sex were prevailed on to take their seat in 
these splendid structures ! That solid and serious 
felicity which the Gospel imparts would soon be 
expelled, amidst such tumultuous assemblies ; and, 
with so many objects to inflame the passions and to 
corrupt the heart, there was little prospect that a 
single visit would leave the individual without being 
infected with a dangerous contagion.. Though cir- 
cumstances may be somewhat different in modern 
theatres, it is greatly to be apprehended that the 
results are not dissimilar. How many a Youth, 
who encouraged the best hopes, has been utterly 
ruined by these entertainments ! 



260 



VISIT TO THE 



FROM LAODICEA TO COLOSSI. 

We spent the night in a Turkish Village near at 
hand. As if Christians had no claim even to the 
vicinity of Laodicea, it was here first that we met 
with incivility. It was difficult for our servants, 
who had gone before, to obtain us a lodging; and, 
when we ourselves arrived, we found no disposition 
on the part of the villagers to treat us with kindness. 
Friendly demeanour, however, on our part, seemed 
at length to conciliate them ; and we enjoyed some 
refreshing repose, though our horses shared the same 
room with ourselves. We have by this time become 
accustomed to the unpleasantness of " living in 
state ; " in other words, of being observed in every 
motion, whether eating, dressing, writing, &c, by a 
crowd of spectators. Knives and forks, and various 
articles which to Europeans are almost indispensable, 
are, in Turkey, objects of no small curiosity. 

April 6, 1826 — After an hour's ride, we arrived 
at Denizli. This is a large and flourishing town ; 
and, as we happened to visit it on the market-day, 
every thing wore an aspect of bustle and activity. 
There is a considerable number of Greek residents : 
they assert that they occupy 60 houses ; and I was 
glad to find Romaic still spoken by them. They 
have one Church ; and we heard of another of the 
Armenians. After continual exposure to observa- 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 261 

tion for so long a time, it was to me quite a treat to 
find an opportunity for retirement and prayer. 
Here, also, I was permitted, in some degree, to 
exercise my proper office. I had much conversation 
on Religion with a Greek from Conieh (the Ancient 
Iconium), and with three or four others. The 
Missionary who would aspire to revive the ancient 
Churches of Hierapolis, Laodicea, and Colossae, 
must establish himself at Denizli : here he would be 
in the neighbourhood of them all: but he would have 
a difficult post. The union of the Medical with 
the Clerical character would probably remove some 
obstacles. 

In the afternoon, we pursued our journey. Soon 
after leaving the town, we met with a remarkable 
instance of the phlegmatic disposition of the Turks. 
The Janissary's horse, passing over a small bridge, 
lost his footing, fell down, and threw his rider with 
considerable violence. We were apprehensive that 
he had received a serious injury, especially as he is 
a large man. He rose, however, very coolly — 
remounted — rode on and did not utter a single 
syllable. 

We now found ourselves in a country which 
merits, by its appearance, to belong to the district 
called KccTYiKavpew/j, or the consumed. It consists, for 
the most part, of small hills, exceedingly sterile ; 
and almost resembles, in colour, a dusty high road. 
We soon passed into a more fertile country. We 



262 



VISIT TO THE 



crossed a river, upon a stone bridge of three arches, 
having on our left a large and deserted khan. Soon 
afterward we travelled a green district, abounding 
with low brushwood : a fine Daphne was flowering 
amidst it. We next arrived on the banks of a 
stream ; which, after we had followed it up for a 
short distance, we were surprised to find springing 
all at once from a gentle acclivity. It appears 
suddenly to view, much in the manner that the river 
Aire in Yorkshire presents itself to light, from 
beneath the immense rock called Malham Cove. 
We also found ancient ruins in the water; and 
close at hand a stone is visible, with a cross upon it, 
and a circle described around it. At first, we were 
ready to suppose that we had met with the re- 
appearance of the Lycus mentioned by Herodotus ; 
but subsequent examination caused us to question 
this opinion. 

On the way from hence to Konos, we traversed a 
beautiful wood ; in which the vines were climbing 
to the summits of the trees, and suspending them- 
selves in a very elegant manner from the branches. 
On the right, we had romantic mountain scenery. 
Mount Cadmus was close at hand, crowned with 
forests ; and the snow was glittering amidst the 
trees. Europeans, we find, are an object of terror 
in this country. A boy, who was driving an ass on 
the road before us, as soon as he perceived our 
approach, forsook his ass, fled with the utmost 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



263 



precipitation, and hid himself among the brush- 
wood. 

We approached Konos with feelings of no small 
excitement. Where is the Ancient CoIosssb t What 
remains of the Church of Epaphras I Are any 
individuals still to be found, who have been made 
meet to be partakers of the inheritance of the saints 
in light, having been delivered from the power of 
darkness, and translated into the kingdom of God's 
dear Son ? (Col. i. 12, 13.) The answer is a 
melancholy one. The very spot on which Colossse 
stood is still uncertain : but, what is most afflicting, 
the condition of Christianity in this region has 
undergone a change, as total as the overthrow of 
the city. Earthquakes have often destroyed the 
works of Art — and, alas ! the world and sin appear 
to have usurped the place where once the work 
of Grace flourished. In fact, we find that the Chris- 
tians of these countries have fallen into those very 
errors against which St. Paul warned them : (Col. ii. 
18.) They have been beguiled of their reward, in a 
voluntary humility and worshipping of angels : and, 
instead of considering themselves complete in Christ 
(v. 10), and dead with Him from the rudiments 
of the world, they are subject to ordinances, {touch 
not, taste not, handle not, which all are to perish 
with the using,) after the commandments and doc- 
trines of men : (20 — 22.) Perhaps a principal 
source of all these evils has been their neglect of 



VISIT TO THE 



St. Paul's advice (iii. 16) : Let the word of Christ 
dwell in you richly in all wisdom. 

After a ride of four hours and-a-half from Denizli, 
we reached Konos, which has long been considered 
to occupy the site of Colossse. The Christians of 
this place inhabit 30 houses; the Turks, 500. There 
is one Church, and there are three Mosques. Here 
we were sorry to find a total ignorance of Modern 
Greek. A Native of Cyprus is the only Priest, 
and the only individual who can speak that language. 
Wherever Turkish has supplanted Greek, of course 
the Romaic Scriptures are of no value : nor does the 
Turkish Testament supply the deficiency; for, partly 
because the Greeks are ignorant of the Turkish 
characters, and partly because the Turks are 
jealous of the introduction and use of this Volume, 
it has become necessary to prepare Turkish Scrip- 
tures in the Greek letter. Whatever Publications 
they possess are of this description ; and I noticed, 
that their inscriptions on tombs are of the same 
kind. It is a natural inference, which is unhappily 
too well confirmed by fact, that where the Greeks 
are only acquainted with Turkish, their knowledge 
of the New Testament will be proportionably less : 
indeed, they are almost totally ignorant of it. — 
Where Romaic is spoken, its similarity to Ancient 
Greek still enables the attentive to have some 
knowledge of the Lessons of the Gospel which are 
read at Church ; but here, such a degree of light 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 265 

is impossible. With regard, then, to Modern Co- 
lossse, more than any part of the Eastern Church 
which I have yet visited, I find it necessary to 
leave out the negative in St. Paul's declaration, 
(2 Tim. ii. 9,) and to say, The Word of God is— 
bound. 

April 7, 1826. — We were eager this morning to 
visit the neighbourhood, and to ascertain, if possi- 
ble, the identity of the situation with Colossal. We 
met, however, with an impediment to our wishes, 
in the incivility of the Aga. Half the day was 
spent before we could commence our researches : 
first, we had to send the Janissary, — next to visit 
the Aga in person, — afterward, to send Mr. Arun- 
dell's Firman and the Booryurdee, — and, last of all, 
it was not till we had made a small present of money 
that we could obtain permission to take our walks. 
We began, indeed, to fear that we should be treated 
as Chandler was at Hierapolis, especially when the 
Aga observed to Mehmet that he paid no regard to 
Firmans or the Ambassadors of European Powers. 
At length, under the conduct of one of his men, 
we made a short tour of the vicinity. 

We first ascended the wide bed of a torrent, 
which descends from Mount Cadmus and passes 
through the town; and then mounted part of an 
almost impregnable rock, on which are the ruins 
of Turkish fortifications. The view from this ele- 
vation is imposing : close beneath is Konos, pre- 

N 



VISIT TO THE 



senting to the eye a considerable extent of flat 
roofs, and trees, and gardens. That we were near 
some ancient city appeared evident, from the rollers 
which we observed on almost every roof. These 
are parts of ancient columns, which have been 
removed from their places to perform this service. 
From hence we visited the eastern extremity of the 
town, and afterward passed along on the south 
side. We found nothing to reward our inquiries ; 
till, on proceeding to the distance of perhaps a mile 
to the south-west, we met with the remains which 
we were disposed to consider as those of the Ancient 
Colossce. We saw, indeed, no inscription which 
attested the fact, nor did we even find any river 
sinking into the earth ; but the existence of ancient 
ruins covering a considerable space of ground, and 
other circumstances, seemed to favour the suppo- 
sition. Want of time, and the obstacles thrown in 
our way, prevented that accurate investigation of 
the country which would have been requisite. Let 
future Travellers follow up the Lycus from Lao- 
dicea ; and I have little doubt but they will find 
Colossse. The remarks which follow were written 
on the supposition of our treading on the exact site 
of this ancient city. It is certain that we were at 
no great distance. 

Here, then, reposes whatever was mortal of the 
Church of Colossse. With the exception of Epa- 
phras, Archippus, Philemon, and Onesimus, the 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 267 

very names of the inhabitants are forgotten. But, 
in truth, very different has been their end, from the 
death of those who are unconnected with their 
Religion : When Christ, who is our life, shall 
appear, then will they also appear with Him in 
glory. (Col. iii. 4.) The place on which I tread 
is a sacred spot of earth. Here have been depo- 
sited the seeds of immortality. Here is concealed 
a treasure, which, ere long, will adorn the very 
courts of Heaven. The place where the remains 
of a Believer rest is precious. With the eye of 
sense, I view nothing here but scattered stones, 
adorned by violets, anemones, and hyacinths ; but, 
by faith, I foresee the exertion of Divine Power 
amidst these ruins. Those who sleep in the dust, 
shall awake — such as rejected the message of mercy 
declared to them by Epaphras, to shame and ever- 
lasting contempt — the happy number, who gave it 
a welcome reception, to everlasting life. That the 
actual situation of Colossse should still be a subject 
admitting of further investigation, is a melancholy 
evidence of the utter ruin which has befallen that 
ancient city. Long since have disappeared, not 
only all the pious labours of Epaphras and his suc- 
cessors, but the very buildings, amidst which they 
resided. At present, the ground is, for the most 
part, cultivated, where we supposed the city to 
stand ; and no remains are visible, which are either 
calculated to excite curiosity or to gratify taste. 

N 2 



VISIT TO THE 



FROM COLOSSjE TO APAMEA AND ISBARTA. 

4pril&, 1826.— We left Konos at eight in the 
morning". On our way, we crossed two or three 
mountain- streams ; one of them much larger than 
any of those near Konos, and about an hour and- 
a-half distant. Further on, we observed, on the 
right, a white formation, resembling that of Hiera- 
polis, though by no means so large : the plain of the 
Lycus soon after closes up. After a gentle ascent, 
in a direction nearly due east, we arrived on a 
beautiful plain, covered with the finest turf, and 
surrounded by small hills crowned with wood : at 
the extremity were two or three small huts, with a 
coffee-house ; and, after another gentle rise, a se- 
cond plain of much larger extent. At four in the 
afternoon, we arrived at Chardar, a very miserable 
Turkish village : we obtained accommodations of a 
moderate description, and found the inhabitants 
exceedingly friendly. 

April 9. — To-day we had the intention of pro- 
ceeding but a short distance, a Sabbath-day's jour- 
ney : but, unexpectedly, not meeting with a single 
house few more than nine hours, we were compelled 
to proceed as far as Deenare. On leaving Chardar, 
at seven o'clock, there was a stillness and serenity 
all around, which seemed to harmonise with a 
Christian Sabbath : but, 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



269 



** The sound of the Church-going bell 
These valleys and rocks never heard." 

or, if the invitation to Christian Worship was ever 
known, it has long since been superseded by the 
cry of the Muezzin. O, for the time when we 
shall hear of Christian Mustaphas, Omars, Alis, 
and Mehmets ! 

Soon after leaving Chardar, we arrived at the 
upper end of a large lake, and, for several hours, 
rode along at no great distance from its edge. All 
persons assert that the waters are bitter, and that 
it contains no fish : we found it. difficult to taste the 
waters ourselves, on account of the marshy ground 
all along the shore : its extent is considerable, at 
least twelve miles ; and its breadth, four. This 
must be the Lake of Anava, spoken of by Hero- 
dotus. Our route lay on the north side. On our 
left, we had a long mass of rock clothed with pines, 
and at its base a succession of beautiful little nooks 
and dells. Beyond the lake are lofty snow-capped 
mountains. Afterward followed a very extensive 
and uninteresting plain. At a well, distant five 
hours from Chardar, we rested for a short time, and 
then pushed on to Deenare. Great part of the day, 
we had a Roman Road running along our route. 
An hour before Deenare we lost this road ; and 
then descended into another plain, lying north and 
south, with considerable mountains on the other 
side. Our route was almost due east, the whole 



270 



VISIT TO THE 



day. Just before entering Deenare, we crossed, by 
a bridge of stone, a rapid stream, running to the 
northward : the inhabitants called it the Mseander. 

We had to spend the night in company of a large 
number of horses, oxen, asses, and fowls : the 
house, in fact, rather seemed to be an immense 
stable, than the residence of human beings : the 
cattle occupied by far the larger part of the build- 
ing : a corner only, which was slightly elevated 
above the rest of the floor, was appropriated to the 
owners. To complete the annoyance, the Mussul- 
mans rose at midnight in order to feast, this being 
the season of Ramazan. Repose was hopeless, 
under such circumstances. 

April 10, 1826. — On our first walk, we found 
extensive ruins on the north side of the town. There 
is abundance of ancient pottery, scattered columns, 
and marble fragments : we also saw the site of a 
Theatre, but the stones have been removed. The 
stream, which I mentioned yesterday, is consi- 
derable : it flows from the south-east ; and must 
at least be a tributary, if not one of the sources 
of the Mseander. 

Our second walk was more successful than the 
first. The Firmans had obtained for us full liberty; 
and our Turkish host conducted us at once to an 
old wall within the precincts of a private house, in 
which we found no less than five inscriptions. We 
copied them all: and one of them commencing — 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



271 



€< The people of the Apolloniats . . . . " led us first 
to suppose that we were on the site of Apollonia ; 
but subsequent research led to the conviction that 
we were treading on the ruins of the large city of 
Apamea. We next proceeded to the south and east 
sides of the town, and found there very extensive 
remains : the blocks of stone are immense : the In- 
scriptions also were exceedingly numerous, but they 
were chiefly sepulchral., The discovery of this an- 
cient city, which will probably be of importance in 
aiding further researches in regard to the antiquities 
of Asia Minor, is entirely due to my friend Mr. 
Arundell. It was he who had the sole planning of 
this part of the journey ; and whatever information 
it may elicit, I most gladly attribute to his exer- 
tions. I had, for my own part, formed no other 
design than that of visiting the Ancient Churches 
of this country ; but, finding myself favoured in a 
fellow-traveller so distinguished by his scientific 
knowledge, I felt most happy to coincide with his 
further plans, hoping at once to obtain additional in- 
formation on the religious state of the interior, and 
in some degree to encourage an inquiry into its an- 
cient geography. 

Deenare, or, as some pronounce it, Dingnare, 
contains, according to report, 100 Turkish Houses 
and one Mosque. There are generally three or four 
Greek visitors, but none are resident. We hap- 
pened to be here on the market-day, and witnessed 



272 



VISIT TO THE 



no small degree of commercial activity. The streets 
were thronged with people. 

We left Deenare about two o'clock in the after- 
noon; and travelled, in a south-easterly direction, 
to Ketzi-Borlu, where we arrived at six. Our 
route lay, for a time, through a fine plain, and 
crossed two moderate streams : after the plain, we 
ascended lofty hills. The forest scenery was ex- 
ceedingly extensive : it stretched over valley and 
mountain, as far as the eye could reach. After 
crossing the hills, we again arrived in a beautiful 
plain. The whole of Asia Minor seems to consists 
of lofty mountains or extensive plains. I am also 
struck to observe, that the plains, in general, seem 
to form an angle with the hills, rather than an arc : 
they give me the idea of a grassy lake. 

Ketzi-Borlu is beautifully situated ; but, upon 
entrance, you find it to consist, like the other Turkish 
Villages which we have lately seen, of nothing but 
mud huts. Here we found some difficulty in ob- 
taining a lodging ; the first Turk, to whom we were 
directed by the Aga, treating us in a manner totally 
inconsistent with the renown of Mussulman hospi- 
tality : at length we found another, who was cer- 
tainly the most friendly we had yet met with. An 
old Dervish paid us a visit ; but he gave us no very 
high idea of the self-denial of his fraternity : he was 
extremely eager to drink brandy, and seemed not a 
little chagrined when we could not gratify his wishes. 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 273 

Ketzi-Borlu contains 150 Turkish Houses, and one 
Mosque. 

FROM ISBARTA TO PHILADELPHIA. 

April 11, 1826. — We arrived at Isbarta in five 
hours-and-a-half, travelling" towards the south . First, 
we passed over level ground ; and, on our right, at 
a considerable distance, appeared the large Salt 
Lake of Burdur, shining with its light green waters: 
on both sides, north-east and south-west, it has high 
mountains. Beyond the north-east range must be 
the large Lake (Anava), which we passed the other 
day. After the plain of Ketzi-Borlu, we ascended 
hills of greater elevation. The heat was exceed- 
ingly oppressive. On descending, we had the stu- 
pendous Mount Taurus just before us, and at our 
feet the extensive Plain of Isbarta. We are dis- 
posed to denominate this champaign, The Plain 
of Whirlwinds, from the large number of these sin- 
gular phenomena which we here observed. One 
of them, at the distance of three or four miles, 
appeared like a column of dust of 400 or 500 feet in 
height. The plain itself is dusty and unpleasant. 
Isbarta is situated close to the southern edge, and 
appears to be of extensive dimensions : we counted 
five Minarets, upon entering. 

April 12 — We have just returned from a visit to 
one of the Greek Churches. We met with a Priest 

N 5 



274 



VISIT TO THE 



from the Morea, to whom we presented a Greek 
Testament ; but Turkish is the common language. 
The Greeks, according to the Priest, have five 
Churches. Isbarta is in the Diocese of Pisidia, the 
Bishop having his residence at Lisi near Attalia. 
The Church is a very dark place, not even having, 
as is usual, a lamp burning, and being almost half 
under ground. Its condition is, I fear, but too apt 
an emblem of the minds of its habitual visitants. 
We have since had a call from two other Greek 
Ecclesiastics, who came for Testaments : we could 
spare only a single copy and some Tracts, but we 
directed them how to obtain them at Smyrna. One 
of the Priests confessed that they were blind, and, 
to use his own expression, " like asses." We gave 
them Christian advice ; and, informing them of the 
Turkish Testament in Greek characters, which is in 
a course of preparation, exhorted them to stimulate 
the people to procure it. Thus have we enjoyed the 
delight of conveying the Word of Eternal Life to 
the base of Mount Taurus. There are some Arme- 
nians here, who have a small Church. 

Isbarta might be called the City of Poplars, from 
the immense number of these trees which rise up 
amidst the houses. We have frequently discovered 
villages, by observing at a distance a grove of 
poplars. 

April 14, 1826 — Left Isbarta soon after eight. 
We had not proceeded to a great distance, before 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



275 



we began to ascend the mountains. The road was 
nothing- else than the channel of a stream, which 
pours down into the plain : we were, of course, per- 
petually employed in crossing its waters. The whole 
ride was exceedingly romantic. On both sides were 
high rocks of the most extraordinary formation — 
Nature's towers, churches, pinnacles, and minarets. 
We also saw the remains of two ancient bridges. 
But, singular and interesting as was the commence- 
ment of the ascent, we soon found it become still 
more extraordinary : we were quite involved in 
Alpine dangers. This was occasioned by the deep 
snows, which were resting on the declivities of the 
mountain. The route was entirely lost : our horses 
had the utmost difficulty in making their way, and 
it became necessary for our attendants themselves to 
carry part of the baggage. Having gained a little 
" oasis" in this snowy desert, I sat down and sung 
the lines, 

Guide me, O Thou Great Jehovah ! 

Pilgrim through this barren land : 
I am weak, but Thou art mighty ; 

Save me by thy powerful hand : 
Bread of heaven ! 

Feed me, till I want no more. 

After arriving on the summit of the mountains, 
we met with few obstacles ; and descended without 
difficulty to the village of Aglasoo. Perceiving, on 
our left, the Ruins which had been celebrated by 
Lucas, Mr. Arundell and myself turned aside to 



276 



VISIT TO THE 



view them ; and were so much struck with what we 
saw, that we determined to survey them at our 
leisure on the following day. 

April 15, 1826 — I now write in the Theatre of 
Sagalassus ; for that such is the ruined city by 
which we are surrounded, is proved by an Inscrip- 
tion which we have just discovered. For a long 
time we searched in vain ; and I began to think that 
this was one of the cities whose memorial had per- 
ished with them. What a striking instance of the 
transitory nature of earthly glory ! It was only by 
means of an Inscription, half buried in the earth, 
that the name of this magnificent city was rescued 
from oblivion. On this Mr. Arundell read with 
difficulty, 

H2ArAAA22EONnOAI2ni2 

" THE CITY OF THE SAGALASSEANS OF PISIDIA." 

The situation of Sagalassus is most extraordinary : 
it may be styled the " City of Snows : " for, even at 
this moment the snow is resting in the area of the 
Theatre below us, and we are surrounded on every 
side by snow-capped elevations. Stupendous Mount 
Taurus is visible at an immense distance, and 
successive parts of the same ridge approach nearer 
and nearer. It is but a peep which is allowed into 
the plains : mountains are the chief features of the 
picture. 

The Ruins of Sagalassus exhibit remains of most, 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



277 



if not of all those ancient buildings which usually 
adorned the cities of antiquity. They are chiefly 
ranged in two lines, at right angles with each other ; 
one lying in the direction of east and west, the other 
of north and south : the former line runs parallel 
with the mountain, on the slope of which the 
town is situated ; the other descends the hill to a 
considerable distance. 1 Careful investigation would 
discriminate the Gymnasium, the Odeum, the Acro- 
polis, Temples, and perhaps even Churches. Mr. 
Arundell has detailed the Ruins with accuracy: 2 it 
is superfluous, therefore, for me to say more on 
the subject. I must not, however, omit to express 
my admiration of the Theatre : this edifice is still 
in excellent preservation, with the exception of 
some parts of the proscenium. Here a spectator 
may obtain the most accurate acquaintance with 
these ancient structures : he may mount the steps, 
ascending from the area to the highest seats : he 
may pass along the galleries ; and he may traverse 
the vaulted passages. 

It was a source of gratification to me, to observe 
symptoms of Christianity amidst the numerous 
symbols of Heathen Worship. We saw a cross 
engraved on the large building at the western 

1 The description of Livy is exact—" situs inter paucas munitse urbis." 
Lib. xxxviii. 15. 

2 See his 1 Visit to the Seven Churches of Asia.' 



278 VISIT TO THE 

approach, and another under one of the sepulchral 
vaults hewn out in the rock. 

The remains of Sagalassus are the most deserted 
of any which I have yet seen. They have been 
abandoned to the partridges : we were continually 
starting these birds, during our examination of the 
building ; and we also aroused a fox from his re- 
treat in the Theatre. Nothing, perhaps, can be a 
more striking proof of the grandeur of antiquity, 
than to discover such splendid ruins in a place of so 
little celebrity : and, in surveying such an object, 
we are powerfully taught, that not only the exist- 
ence of man, but even the duration of his proudest 
works, is transitory and precarious. 

In the Village of Aglasoo we find, according to 
report, 100 Turkish Houses and one Mosque. The 
village itself, and the neighbourhood, are strewed 
with the remains of antiquity. 

This morning I was astonished to observe a 
crowd of Turkish women, collected round our 
dwelling : they were drawn thither by an eager 
desire to get a sight of us ; and so different are 
Turkish manners in this part of the interior from 
those of the coast, that they were not even veiled. 
During our absence, a still larger number, as we 
learnt, had assembled ; some of them with the de- 
sire of medical assistance : and one of these, though 
she was conscious of no complaint, was desirous 
of ascertaining, by means of a physician, if she was 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 279 

in health ! The custom, which is almost universal 
among Turkish women, of concealing their faces 
beneath their large veils as soon as they perceive a 
stranger approaching, reminds me of what is related 
of Rebekah, Gen. xxiv. 65 : She said unto the 
servant, What man is this, that walketh in the 
field to meet us ? And the servant said, It is my 
master : therefore she took a veil, and covered her- 
self. The original has it, She took the veil; or, 
as we say, her veil. 

A youth in the house where we reside was asked 
if any Franks had ever before visited the village. 
The term " Frank" he did not understand ; but, 
on the question being changed into the inquiry, 
whether any " Giaours," or " Infidels," had ever 
been here, he replied, " No." 

April 16, 1826 — Left Aglasoo at eight in the 
morning, and travelled in a westerly direction. We 
traversed a plain adorned with trees, and afterward 
ascended considerable hills. The Savine-tree is 
very abundant on these heights. At eleven, we 
arrived at the Village of Tchinaya. Thence we 
crossed a fine plain, in high cultivation ; and, be- 
yond it, arrived in a most barren region : hills 
abound, with scarcely a blade of grass, and of the 
colour and consistency of pipe-clay. We descended 
a singular gully by the side of a rapid stream, 
crossed by several bridges. It is truly a country 
of desolation. 



280 



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We arrived at Burdur, a quarter before two. 
This town is large : they inform us of 150 Greek 
houses and one church. There is a schoolmaster, 
who teaches ancient Greek. We met with a Turk 
here who is employed in one of the most melan- 
choly services which can degrade human-nature 5 
but who is, at the same time, possessed of more 
intelligence than usually falls to the lot of his 
countrymen. He is a Slave Dealer ; and has just 
arrived with twelve Negroes, whom he is conduct- 
ing from Egypt to Constantinople. As he spoke 
Italian, I had much conversation with him ; and 
found that his slaves were from the neighbourhood 
of Tripoli, and that the price of one of them might 
be 1500 piastres. Mr. Arundell would have been 
glad to purchase a Boy, for the most benevolent 
purposes ; but the owner declined, on the ground 
that the law of Turkey forbade the sale of Slaves 
to Franks. It is a reflection, disgraceful to our 
country, that the Slave of a Turk may be accounted 
more happy than the Slave of an Englishman. At 
the end of seven years, it is usual for the Turk 
to emancipate his Slave, at least if he become 
a Mahometan ! nor are Slave Drivers, armed 
with whips, ever heard of in the country of Mus- 
sulmans ! 

I have found here Greeks from Joannina ; and 
have been pressing them to seek relief from their 
sorrows, in Him who says, Come unto me, all that 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 281 

labour and are heavy-laden, and I ivill give you 
rest. I had also a long conversation with Anasta- 
sius, a Greek, who practices as a Physician : but 
how difficult is it to persuade men to be eternally 
happy ! We gave him a New Testament : he in- 
formed us of three Hungarian Physicians, who had, 
not long since, become Mussulmans. 

April 17, 1826— We left Burdur at half-after- 
seven ; and arrived at Yazakioi, after a ride of 
some hours, along the Salt Lake. We reached 
Atchikioi at half-after-five : the road was not very 
interesting. 

April 18 — Our accommodations in this small vil- 
lage were unusually good : we were even favoured 
with a kind of tray, which answered the purpose 
of a table. Left Atchikioi at half-after-seven ; 
and, soon after three, arrived at Bashtchesme. We 
passed a fresh- water lake, two or three hours from 
Atchikioi, about five miles long, and two or three 
broad. We next ascended a rocky defile, adorned 
with beautiful forest scenery, and passed a second 
time into the large Plain of Chardar. Coming to 
a well, without possessing the means of obtaining 
water, we were forcibly reminded of our Lord's 
situation near Sychar — Sir, thou hast nothing to 
draw with, and the well is deep. 

This morning, as we were riding along, I read 
the Epistle to the Colossians with great delight. 
What heavenly satisfaction does the Word of God 



282 



VISIT TO THE 



afford ! I can find no other rest for the soul ! May 
God give grace to myself, and to every Christian 
Missionary, to attend to the admonition addressed 
to a Minister of this Church — Say to Archippus, 
Take heed to the Ministry which thou hast received 
in the Lord, that thou fulfil it. Our ride over the 
plain was exceedingly sultry. We passed through 
a weary land; and longed, in vain, for the shadow 
of a great rock, under which to obtain shelter. 

April 19, 1826 — We started at half-after-five; 
and passed along a route, great part of which we 
had previously travelled. We left Konos considera- 
bly to the left ; and went forward through the Plain 
of the Lycus, crossing the river which comes down 
from below Konos. on a bridge of two arches, and 
not halting till we arrived at Bujalee. About two 
in the afternoon we arrived at Denizli. Vegetation 
is much more advanced in this neighbourhood than 
in the country which we have just passed : the trees 
are now assuming their summer attire. 

Had serious conversation with Pappas Immanuel, 
a Rhodian ; we gave him Tracts, entreating him 
to read them to his people. Though we see little 
of real Christianity in these countries, it is not lost 
for ever. Like the Lycus, at Colossae, it may dis- 
appear for a time ; but we have the best authority 
for believing that it will, ere long, rise again to 
view, in its pristine glory. 

April 20, 1826—1 feel it my duty to record 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 283 

Mr. Arimdeli's medical attention to the people. 
During the whole journey, he has exerted himself, 
in the most laudable manner, for the benefit of 
applicants. Every Traveller in the East is well 
aware how perpetual are applications of this nature : 
all Franks are supposed to be Physicians. At 
Burdur, a Turk seized my hand, and by main force 
applied my fingers to his pulse ; and it was with 
difficulty that I could make him understand that 
I was not a medical practitioner. How delightful 
would it be, were those, whose office it is to impart 
health and life to the immortal part of man, to meet 
with an equal degree of solicitation ! but the most 
melancholy symptom, in the innumerable maladies 
of the soul, is insensibility to the disease. 

Left Denizli at two in the afternoon, and reached 
Sarakioi soon after six. On the way, we observed 
a large swarm of locusts. The country has been 
visited for the last two years by this terrible scourge; 
and the same calamity again threatens it. 

April 21 — Last night we retired to rest in what 
appeared one of the best rooms which we have 
occupied during the journey ; but, at midnight, we 
were roused by the rain pouring through the roof, 
and I found it necessary to rise and dress. In flat- 
roofed houses this is a frequent occurrence. I 
discover in this adventure an illustration of Pro v. 
xxvii. 15 — A continual dropping in a very rainy 
clay, and a contentious woman, are alike. The 



284 



VISIT TO THE 



LXXII have it — Drops of rain in a wintery day, 
drive a man out of his house ; and just so a railing 
vmnan. The Vulgate speaks expressly of the roof 
through which the water passeth. I was literally 
driven out of the house by the rain descending 
through the roof ; and sought for shelter in the 
corridor, which was better protected. 

In walking here, at this midnight-hour, I was 
much interested to hear the Mussulman Hymns 
resounding from the minaret of the Mosque. This 
practice, which is usual with the Turks during the 
season of Ramazan, has a very solemn effect. I 
must add, there is to me something highly interesting 
in the Muezzin's proclaiming from the minaret the 
hour of prayer. I have often listened to it with 
serious feelings, though the language is foreign 
to me, and though it is a part of the Mahomedan 
Service. There is also a sublime and affecting 
simplicity in the language which is employed — 
" God, Most High ! I attest that there is no God 
but God ! I attest that Mahomet is the Prophet 
of God ! Come to prayer : come to the assembly 
of Salvation. Great God ! There is no God but 
God ! " — May the clause concerning Mahomet be 
soon exchanged for the Confession, " I believe that 
Jesus is the Son of God." 

This morning I witnessed an affecting exemplifi- 
cation of the manner in which instruction is con- 
veyed among the Greeks. Hearing the sound of 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 285 

recitation, I followed it into an apartment of the 
khan, and found a Priest engaged in teaching his 
son. The Youth had before him one of the large 
volumes employed in the Greek Services, and which 
are written in a language unintelligible to him. 
From this book, his father engaged him in a con- 
tinual repetition of the Words, 'AXa^vv 'lcrparjX, piafyove 
Xae, ri kccOuy, rov Bapa.fi[3a.v '}jXev8epco<Ta<; t kou ro> Sarrfpa 

iirpotiecicas r£ a-rccvpa ; Arrogant Israel, bloody people, 
impelled by what injuries didst thou liberate Ba~ 
rabbas, and betray the Saviour to the Cross f By 
dint of such continual repetition, the poor little 
fellow would, at length, be able to read a book, 
without understanding its meaning. The custom 
of teaching children by means of the ancient lan- 
guage has been universal, till lately, among the 
Greeks. From the words which I have just quoted, 
we may observe, in passing, in what manner prayers 
to Saints had their origin. First, the Saint was 
addressed in a rhetorical manner, just as language 
is above directed to the people of Israel ; and, by 
degrees, what was nothing but bold apostrophe, 
began to be understood as the words of prayer and 
adoration. 

From the apartment of the Priest, I passed into 
an adjoining School, which afforded me much greater 
satisfaction. Here I found a Young Greek, with 
the New Testament of the Bible Society in his 
hand. It was delightful to observe in him a dispo- 



286 



VISIT TO THE 



sition not unworthy of comparison with the spirit 
of the Ethiopian Eunuch : How can I understand, 
lest some one guide me ? In fact, he acknowledged 
his incapacity to understand the truths of Divine 
Revelation ; and I had one of those delightful 
opportunities, which refresh so much the spirit of the 
Missionary, of directing him to Christ, and to Christ 
alone, as the Saviour of Sinners. I pointed out a 
variety of important passages in the New Testament, 
read them with him, and marked them for his future 
study. I learned, with no small satisfaction, after- 
wark, that it was his full intention to proceed, with 
another young man, to Corfu, in order to study at 
the University there. I thank God for my inter- 
course with the Young Schoolmaster of Sara- 
kioi : he has heard the truth in a most teachable 
spirit. 

Though the rain continued, we determined to 
proceed. We crossed the Masander for the fourth 
and last time, over a large wooden bridge. After 
the rain had passed off, we encountered most severe 
cold. Suffering extremely from the rigour of the 
weather, we arrived at Bullada ; and were glad to 
find relief, by kindling a large fire in our room in 
the khan. Bullada is a large Turkish town, situated 
on the declivities of Mount Messogis : it contains 
a thousand houses and eleven Mosques. 

April 22, 1826— How extraordinary! This 
morning we find ourselves surrounded by a snow- 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



287 



white world. Who would have expected this cir- 
cumstance in Asia Minor, on the 22d of April ! 

Courtship, it appears, is, in Turkey, a transaction 
of no great length or difficulty. Mehmet, our J a- * 
nissary, during the few hours' stay which we had 
made in Bullada, has been betrothed to a Turkish 
Female. He cannot see her, till the day on which 
they are married. 

This is the weather for great coats, umbrellas, 
flannels, and whatever can defend or invigorate the 
human constitution. Such were our feelings on 
eaving Bullada. After crossing Mount Messogis, 
*ve found a more genial climate. The mountain 
tself is uninteresting. On the side of Philadelphia, 
we traced a small river for a considerable distance, 
and forded it full twenty times : the scenery on the 
bank is enchanting. One day's march was of six 
hours' continuance. We passed Derbent, aud spent 
the night at Innighioul, 

PHILADELPHIA. 

April 23, 1826 — In no part of my journey have I 
risen with more lively anticipations. To-day I 
expect to see Philadelphia. May the blessing of 
Him thai is holy and true accompany me thither ! 
May I learn, by this visit, to imitate the members 
of that Ancient Church, which so faithfully kept the 
word of our Lord's patience ; and finally become, 



288 



VISIT TO THE 



with them, a pillar in the temple of God, and go no 
more out! 

After a ride of four hours we arrived at Phila- 
delphia. As we drew near, I read with much 
interest the Epistle (Rev. iii. 7 — 13) to that Church. 
The town is situated on a rising ground, beneath the 
snowy Mount Tmolus. The houses are embosomed 
in trees, which have just assumed their fresh green 
foliage, and give a beautiful effect to the scene. 
I counted six minarets. We entered through a 
ruined wall ; massy, but by no means of great 
antiquity. The streets are excessively ill paved 
and dirty. The tear of Christian pity must fall 
over Modern Philadelphia. Were Christ Himself 
to visit it, would He not weep over it, as once over 
Jerusalem ? Alas ; the generation of those who 
kept the word of our Lord's patience is gone by ; and 
here, as in too many other parts of the Christian 
Vineyard, it is difficult to discover better fruits 
than those which are afforded by briars and bram- 
bles ! It is, indeed, an interesting circumstance, to 
find Christianity more flourishing here than in many 
other parts of the Turkish Empire. There is still 
a numerous Christian Population, occupying 300 
houses. Divine Service is performed every Sunday, 
in five Churches ; and there are twenty of a smaller 
description, in which, once a year, the Liturgy is 
read. But though the candlestick remains, its light 
is obscured : the lamp still exists, but where is its 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



289 



oil ? Where is now the word of our Lord's 
patience? — it is conveyed in sounds unintelligible 
to those who hear. When the very Epistle to their 
own Church is read, they understand it not i The 
word of legendary superstition and of multifarious 
will- worship is now more familiar to their ears. 
And where is the bright exhibition of Christian 
Virtues I — unhappily, the character of Christians in 
these countries will scarcely bear comparison with 
that of Mahomedans themselves ! In a word, 
Philadelphia has had her share in that utter apos- 
tacy from true and practical Christianity which has 
been the bane of the East. Grievous wolves have 
entered in, not sparing the flock: (Acts xx. 29.) 
There have been false teachers among them, who 
privily have brought in damnable heresies, even 
denying the Lord that bought them: and many 
have followed their pernicious ways, by reason 
of whom the way of Truth is evil spoken of: 
(2 Peter ii. 1, 2.) 

p.m. We have just ascended the ancient Acro- 
polis, a hill above the city, which commands a most 
extensive prospect. Below is the town, surrounded 
by its wall, and embosomed in trees. 

We see this interesting place to peculiar advan- 
tage. For several days, we have been contending 
with rain, cold, and adverse weather : but to-day, 
on arriving at Philadelphia, lo ! the winter is past, 
the rain is over and gone, the flowers appear on 
o 



290 



VISIT TO THE 



the earth, the time of the singing of the birds is 
come, and the voice of the turtle is heard in their 
land: (Cant. ii. 11, 12.) The voice of the turtle 
charmed me greatly, during our stay here. This 
favourite bird is so tame, that it flies about the 
streets, and comes up close to our door in the 
khan. 

The remains of antiquity at Philadelphia are not 
numerous. I have noticed a few beautiful sarco- 
phagi, now devoted to the purpose of troughs : but 
the ruined wall was probably erected by those who 
so manfully defended the eity, previously to its 
final fall. 

Our visit to Philadelphia was rendered the more 
interesting, by the circumstance of our being the 
Bishop's visitors. He pressed us so strongly to make 
his house our home, that we thought it right to 
comply with his wishes. This circumstance gave 
me an opportunity of having much conversation with 
Panaretos. Many of his remarks afforded us satis- 
faction. The Bible he declared to be the only 
foundation of all religious belief : and I was aston- 
ished to hear him say, that he knew of no other 
Confession of Christian Faith than the Creeds of 
the Apostles, of Nice, and of St. Athanasius. With 
the design of referring to Christ, as the only name 
given among men by which we can be saved, I in- 
troduced a remark on the atoning efficacy which too 
many appear to attach to Fasting. " It is," he 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



291 



replied, 4< the universal idea." After other obser- 
vations, distinguished for candour, and expressive 
of the miserable follies into which our nature has 
plunged us, he used these decisive words : — " Abuses 
have entered into the Church, which former ages 
might endure ; but the present must put them 
down." Other topics of conversation were, Justifi- 
cation by Faith, Indulgences, the Prophecies con- 
cerning Popery, and the Seventh General Councih 
Conversing on the last-mentioned subject, I was 
surprised to find that he did not know that Protes- 
tants worshipped God without the use of pictures. 
The Christian Population he considerrd to be on the 
increase at Philadelphia : in the last year there had 
been ten deaths and twenty marriages. The Turks, 
he said, were decreasing: a large number had 
marched for Greece, and none had ever returned . 
In the evening, we attended the Metropolitan 
Church ; but to give a true account of the sad de- 
gradation of Christian Worship exhibited on this 
occasion would be equally difficult and painful. 
We were highly pleased with the engaging manner 
of Panaretos. His house, also, which is termed, as 
usual by the Greeks, the Metropolis, exhibited a 
decorum suited to a Christian Bishop ; nor did I 
witness that fawning, and perpetual kissing of the 
hand, which I have deplored in some other Epis- 
copal Residences. From the verandah, we had a 
view over the whole town by day ; and at night, we 
o 2 



292 



VISIT TO THE 



observed the illuminated minarets spreading their 
light over the city, as is customary during the Fast 
of Ramazan. 

April 24, 1826 — This morning I visited a Public 
School of the Greeks. There were present thirty or 
forty children. Greek, Romaic, and Turkish were 
the objects of attention. The Master complained, 
that the neglect of the parents was a great obstacle 
to improvement : as soon as a child could write 
sufficiently for the purposes of commerce, he was 
removed, and employed in business. 

I found in this School a Manuscript of the Gos- 
pels, on vellum ; but it is by no means ancient or 
valuable. It is however worthy of notice, that a 
Manuscript was found, some time since, at Caesarea, 
written in uncial letters ; which is held in such 
veneration in that neighbourhood, that the Turks 
always send for it, when they put a Greek upon his 
oath. It will be well for future Travellers to ex- 
amine it. 

The pen of a celebrated Infidel bears witness to a 
circumstance which is worthy of notice in regard to 
Philadelphia. " Philadelphia, alone, has been saved 
by prophecy or courage. At a distance from the 
sea, forgotten by the Emperors, encompassed on all 
sides by the Turks, her valiant citizens defended 
her religion and freedom above fourscore years ; 
and, at length, capitulated with the proudest of the 
Ottomans. Among the Greek Colonies and Churches 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 293 

of Asia, Philadelphia is still erect ; a column in a 
scene of ruins." (Gibbon's Decline and Fall, vol. xi. 
chap. 64.) It may be added — the circumstance that 
Philadelphia is now called Allah-Shehr, " the City 
of God," when viewed in connexion with the pro- 
mises made to that Church, and especially with that 
of writing the name of the City of God upon its 
faithful Members, is, to say the least, a singular 
coincidence. 1 

SARDIS. 

April 25, 1826— We left Philadelphia at half- 
after-ten ; and, in seven hours, arrived at a Coffee- 
house, an hour's distance from Sardis. We have 
the famous Acropolis of that city in full view. To 
the left of our route we observed numerous hills, 
thrown into such singular forms, as to leave no 
doubt that earthquakes have often here performed 
their work of destruction. Our day's journey was 
along the route of the Younger Cyrus, when he 
commenced his expedition against his brother. We 
are informed that there are as many as sixty Greek 
Houses, and one Church, within a circuit of moderate 
extent. 

April 26 — This morning I have visited Sardis — 
once the splendid capital of Lydia, the famous resi- 



i Others call it EUah-STieTir, " Beautiful City." 



294 



VISIT TO THE 



dence of Croesus, the resort of Persian Monarchs, 
and one of the most ancient and magnificent cities 
of the world. Now, how fallen ! The ruins are, 
with one exception, more entirely gone to decay 
than those of most of the ancient cities which we 
have visited. No Christians reside on the spot : two 
Greeks only work in a mill here, and a few wretched 
Turkish huts are scattered among the ruins. We 
saw the Churches of St. John and the Virgin, the 
Theatre, and the building styled the Palace of 
Croesus ; but the most striking object at Sardis is 
the Temple of Cybele. I was filled with wonder 
and awe at beholding the two stupendous columns 
of this edifice, which are still remaining : they are 
silent but impressive witnesses of the power and 
splendour of Antiquity. I read, amidst the ruins, 
the Epistle (Rev. iii. 1 — 6) addressed to the Church 
once fixed here. What an impressive warning to 
Christian Churches ! A name to live while dead! — 
Is not the state of Religion in Britain precisely such 
as to threaten punishment like that which has be- 
fallen Sardis I A certain portion of religion is at 
present popular : the world approximates a certain 
distance towards Religion ; and many persons who 
would pass for religious seem disposed to advance at 
least half-way towards the world. Does not this 
neglect of watchfulness end in many defiling their 
garments f And if this negligence does not give 
place to remembrance, and repentance, and to a 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 295 

strengthening of the things which remain and are 
ready to die, the consequences will be equally 
fatal ! — May God preserve us from the fate of 
Sardis ! 

FROM SARDIS TO THYATIRA. 

From Sardis we took the direction of Thyatira ; 
and first had to cross the celebrated plain, on which 
Cyrus overthrew the Empire of Lydia. Upon ar- 
riving at the banks of the Hermus, we found that 
the ferry-boat had been destroyed ; and that it would 
be necessary, in consequence, to ford the river. 
This appeared to be rather a dangerous enterprise, 
as the river is both wide and deep. Happily, a fine 
Turkish Youth undertook to be our guide ; and, 
riding gallantly at our head, he conducted us to the 
other side in safety : the water reached to the 
breasts of the horses. We now approached the im- 
mense multitude of lofty Barrows, or Tumuli, which 
have so justly attracted the admiration of Travellers. 
They cover a very large extent of ground ; and are, 
in general, of a very regular formation. We were 
particularly struck with that which is considered the 
Tumulus of Halyattes ; and which is, probably, the 
largest artificial hill in the world. But the tout 
ensemble, more than all, engaged my attention. 
What a most extraordinary burying- ground ! Here, 
you are ready to exclaim with the Prophet — all the 



296 



VISIT TO THE 



kings of the nations, even all of them, lie in glory, 
every one in his own house ! (Isaiah xiv. 18). 

Beyond the Tumuli, we passed the Gygaean Lake, 
to the right. After a ride of six hours-and-a-half 
we arrived at Marmara. This is a fine large vil- 
lage, with a northern aspect ; and defended on the 
south by a rocky and precipitate hill. Two Mosques, 
with domes and minarets are very conspicuous. I 
heard only of five or six Greek Houses, and one 
Church. 

Thyatira : April 27, 1826 — I have now the fa- 
vour to write in the Sixth of the Seven Churches. 
It is about four hours distant from Marmara. On 
the way, we observed many columns and antiquities, 
notifying an ancient town. Mr. Arundell disco- 
vered an Inscription, containing the words, " FROM 
thyatira." Ak-hissar, the Modern Thyatira, is 
situated on a plain, and is embosomed in cypresses 
and poplars. The buildings are in general mean ; 
but the khan in which we are at present residing is, 
by far, the best which I have yet seen. The Greeks 
are said to occupy 300 houses, and the Armenians 
30. Each of them have a Church. 

Here we witnessed a fine Turkish spectacle. The 
new Mutselim of Aidin arrived from Constantinople, 
with a retinue of 200 horse. They were all ex- 
tremely well dressed and mounted : their turbans 
were white as snow, and the renowned scymitar 
of Turkey hung gracefully behind them. I was 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



297 



much struck with the lordly air which they dis- 
played. "It is well," I thought, " for Europe, 
that such cavaliers have no discipline." 

We paid a visit to the Church of the Greeks ; it 
is a wretched structure. Upon opening" the door, 
we had to descend four or five steps into the body 
of the building. We found a Priest, a native of 
Milo, who was engaged in hearing the confessions 
of the people. On returning to the khan, I con- 
versed for a considerable time, with four or five 
Greeks, on the study of the Scriptures — the pre- 
dicted apostacy from true Christianity, and the 
means which were furnished for detecting" it — the 
inutility of alms for the salvation of man — the ne- 
cessity of forsaking sin, &c. Nicolas afterwards 
sat up with the same party till midnight, reasoning 
with them on important subjects. I presented 
the most interesting of these young men with the 
New Testament ; and cannot but indulge the hope 
that a useful impression has been made on his 
mind. 

The language addressed to Thyatira (Rev. ii. 
18 — 29) is rather different from that of the other 
Epistles. The commendations (v. 19) are scarcely 
surpassed even in the Epistle to Philadelphia, while 
the conduct of some (v. 20, 21) was impious and 
profligate. The Church thus exhibited a contrast 
of the most exalted piety with the very depths of 
Satan. In too many parts of Christendom we 



298 



VISIT TO THE 



observe a similar state of things, even at this day : 
how important, then, the admonition, That which 
ye have already, hold fast till I come ! 

And this language is not only designed for those 
who have recently been brought to the knowledge 
of Christianity : it is a caution very needful for 
those who have long been acquainted with its in- 
finite value. The most ostensible danger to Chris- 
tians is rather after a perseverance of some years, 
than in the commencement of their Christian career. 
When religion appears to have become habitual, 
we are in much greater danger of being thrown 
off our guard, than when we have just been awa- 
kened to observe its great importance and our own 
weakness. Let the follower of Christ be therefore 
especially careful, lest he lose his crown, after he 
has won many victories. Let the joy which he 
feels, under the conviction that he is approaching 
nearer to the end of all his wishes, be ever tem- 
pered with the recollection, that he is still possessed 
of a heart which is deceitful above all things and 
desperately wicked, and that he is still encompassed 
by a world which lieth in wickedness. When the 
disposition of fearing always is united to the cha- 
racter of watchfulness, courage, and simple de- 
pendence on the Divine aid, then will be realized 
obedience to the caution, Hold fast that which ye 
have. 

The address to the unfaithful part of the Church 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



299 



at Thyatira is at once alarming- and inviting. It 
contains one of those many denunciations of Divine 
anger, which place it beyond all doubt that God 
will by no means clear the guilty. Nothing will 
save them from the indignation of Him, who has 
revealed himself as a consuming fire to the wicked. 

The Sacred Writer of the Acts of the Apostles 
informs us that Lydia was a seller of purple, in the 
city of Thyatira : and the discovery of an Inscrip- 
tion here, which makes mention of " the dyers," 
has been considered important, in connexion with 
this passage. I know not if other Travellers have 
remarked, that, even at the present time, Thyatira 
is famous for dyeing. In answer to inquiries on 
this subject, I was informed that the cloths which 
are dyed scarlet here are considered superior to 
any others furnished by Asia Minor ; and that large 
quantities are sent weekly to Smyrna, for the pur- 
poses of commerce. 



FROM THYATIRA TO SMYRNA. 

April 28, 1826— We left Ak-hissar at half-after- 
six in the morning ; and in four hours and-a-half 
reached a Coffee-house, which is considered half 
way to Magnesia. The country was uninteresting, 
and for the most part uncultivated. We observed 
a flock of twenty-five vultures, close by the road. 

At half-after-twelve we proceeded on our journey, 



300 



VISIT TO THE 



and arrived, in about five hours, at Magnesia-by- 
Sipylus. The greater part of the way we were 
accompanied by a body of Turks, who had been 
escorting the Pasha of Magnesia on his way to 
Constantinople. These young men were full of 
wild freaks, lashing and galloping their horses, and 
indulging in diversion as much as if heated by wine. 
A young Moor had nearly paid very dear for 
his sport : he had a most tremendous fall, his 
horse appearing to roll completely over him. To 
our astonishment and joy, he declared himself 
unhurt. 

The view of Magnesia is splendid. Twenty white 
minarets tower above the houses; and Mount Si- 
pylus, a mountain huge and rocky, impends above. 
The town itself is cleanly ; and, in general, superior 
in character to the other Turkish towns which I 
have yet visited. We heard of 800 Greek Houses 
and one Church, and of two Armenian Churches : 
the Jews also have a Synagogue. The Scriptures 
have been sent hither from Smyrna, by Mr. Barker ; 
and very readily purchased. 

April 29, 1826 — This morning we ascended part 
of the steep hill on which the Acropolis is seated. 
On producing a compass, we found the needle 
powerfully affected by the iron-stone of which the 
hill is composed. The prospect from this eminence 
is extremely beautiful. The Hermus is seen di- 
viding the plain to a great distance : and there, we 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 



301 



recollected, was fought the great battle in which 
Scipio Asiaticus routed the forces of Antiochus. 

From Magnesia to Smyrna is a ride of eight 
hours. The way leads over Mount Sipylus, and is 
of the most rugged and toilsome description. After 
travelling for thirty-one days, it was no small plea- 
sure to me to catch sight once more of the Gulf 
of Smyrna ; and to be approaching a place where 
I might enjoy a season of repose, and return once 
more to my regular duties. The last steps of our 
journey were over the delicious Plain of Smyrna. 
For fertility and beauty it is, probably, unrivalled 
in Asia. 

How can I conclude, without expressing my gra- 
titude to the Almighty, for His watchful care, 
extended towards us during our whole tour ! The 
hope of His love and favour is the Christian's 
solace and happiness, as long as he lives upon the 
earth. And now, having had this new evidence 
of them, may I be excited to more fervent devotion 
and to more active obedience ! 

SECOND VISIT TO THYATIRA. 

June 15, 1826 — Mr. King and I were mounted 
at four o'clock this morning; and arrived at Ak- 
hissar, on our way to Constantinople, about one. 
I regret that circumstances prevent my visiting 
Pergamos at present; but I have the pleasure of 



302 



VISIT TO THE 



seeing Thyatira a second time. We forded the 
Hermus considerably above the bridge. At this 
place, and at this season, the water is scarcely 
above the knees of the horses. 

A second time I crossed the field of battle which 
was fatal to Antiochus. A very different army is 
at present ravaging the whole territory. I allude 
to the Locusts: and I am perfectly astonished at 
their multitudes. They are, indeed, as a strong 
people set in battle array: they run like mighty 
men ; they climb the walls like men of war. I 
actually saw them run to and fro in the City of 
Thyatira: they ran upon the wall: they climbed 
up upon the houses : they entered in at the windows 
like a thief: (Joel ii. 5, 7, 9.) This is, however, 
by no means one of the most formidable armies 
of locusts which are known in these countries. 

Near Thyatira we still find very beautiful vegeta- 
tion : the neighbourhood has a most fertile ap- 
pearance. A white species of rose is extremely 
abundant, and scents the air with a most delightful 
odour. 

At Thyatira we had very agreeable intercourse 
with the Bishop's Procurator, and with five Priests. 
Christ Crucified was the subject of our conversa- 
tion : and Mr. King addressed the Children of the 
School, forty-five in number. We also distributed 
many Tracts, and gave away two New Testaments ; 
and regretted much that we had not with us a larger 



APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES. 303 

supply of books, as a great desire for them was 
displayed. No one surely will doubt the import- 
ance of distributing useful books, after hearing the 
following fact, of which we were informed by a 
Greek of this place. Two Missionaries, he said, 
(who were doubtless the Rev. Messrs. Fisk and 
Parsons) had visited Thyatira, five or six years ago, 
and distributed books. They had presented him 
with one ; which he had lent to more than two 
hundred persons ! 



JOURNALS 

OF THE 

REV. JOHN HARTLEY. 



TOUR IN THE MOREA, 

IN THE YEAR 1828. 



iEGINA. 

The Island of iEgina was the seat of the Greek 
Government, during the time that I was there. 
This circumstance, and the contingencies of the 
war, had conducted thither a considerable number 
of inhabitants. The Native iEginetans do not ex- 
ceed 5000 ; but the influx of strangers had swelled 
the population to 20,000 : of these, 2000 were 
Ipsariots. 1 

Feb. 19, 1828— Dr. Korck and I paid a visit to 
the Temple of Jupiter. It is on the other side 



1 There are also 6000 or 7000 Ispariots in Tino, Mycono, and Syra. 



306 



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of the island, at the distance of two hours-and-a- 
half. We had an opportunity of viewing, on this 
excursion, both the works of God and the works 
of man. The former are always interesting and 
instructive to serious and contemplative persons. 
Who can survey the mountains, the plains, the 
trees, the plants, the ocean, and the sky, without 
having his mind in some degree solemnized I To a 
Christian, they have a powerful and impressive 
voice : they not only call forth his admiration and 
delight, but they prompt him to serve with diligence 
the Great Being who made them all. These were 
some of my feelings, as I was passing over the hills 
and dales of iEgina. 

The island has nothing in its scenery which is 
very striking. If we except the vicinity of the 
town, which is a gentle slope or even plain to a 
considerable distance, it consists of hills of moderate 
dimensions, with valleys of but small extent. We 
found more cultivation than we had expected ; and 
we were convinced that the island is capable of sus- 
taining multitudes, such as peopled it in ancient 
times. 1 A principal feature in the landscape is, at 
present, the almond-trees. They are very nume- 
rous ; and being covered with a vast profusion of 
white and pink blossoms, they adorn the prospect 
in a beautiful manner. We had the pleasure, en- 

1 Athenseus (vi. 20) quotes Aristotle for the assertion, that in ^Egina there 
were 470,000 Slaves. 



THE MOREA. 



307 



joyed by many Travellers who had gone before us, 
of visiting the remains of the Temple of Jupiter 
Panhellenius. Dr. Korck was rather disappointed, 
probably from having too high expectations. The 
effect on my own mind, of nearly thirty columns 
standing in silence and solitude on so romantic a 
spot, and conveying the mind backward through 
the recollections of 2000 years, was peculiarly im- 
pressive. I know not if I can well explain the 
association ; but I own, that antiquities of this na- 
ture often edify me — I mean by the word " edify," 
stimulate me to more earnest desires of God's 
favour, and impel me to prayer for faithfulness and 
zeal. Certain I am, that, after my return, I en- 
gaged in prayer to God with much more earnestness 
and sincerity than for some time past. The view 
from the Temple is such as would fill with rapture 
many a Youth in England. The Acropolis of 
Athens, the Piraeeus, Mounts Hymettus, Pentelicus 
and Parnes, and Salamis — these, and many other 
classical objects, are all conspicuous. I have lived 
long enough in the East, and long enough in the 
world, to look upon them with placid feelings. 

March 5, 1828 — I have met with a Scriptural 
illustration which interests me. Having had my 
attention directed last night to the words, John x. 
3 — The sheep hear His voice, and He calleth His 
own sheep by name, &c, I asked my man if it was 
usual in Greece to give names to the sheep. He 



308 



TOUR IN 



informed me that it was, and that the sheep obeyed 
the shepherd when he called them by their names. 
This morning I had an opportunity of verifying the 
truth of this remark. Passing by a flock of sheep, 
I asked the shepherd the same question which I had 
put to my servant, and he gave me the same 
answer. I then bade him to call one of his sheep. 
He did so, and it instantly left its pasturage and 
its companions, and ran up to the hand of the 
shepherd, with signs of pleasure, and with a prompt 
obedience which I had never before observed in any 
other animal. It is also true of the sheep in this 
country, that a stranger will they not follow, but 
will flee from him ; for they know not the voice 
of strangers. The shepherd told me, that many 
of his sheep are still wild ; that they had not yet 
learned their names ; but that, by teaching, they 
would all learn them. The others, which knew their 
names, he called tame. How natural an applica- 
tion to the state of the human race does this 
description of the sheep admit of! The Good 
Shepherd laid down His life for His sheep : but 
many of them are still wild : they know not His 
voice. Others have learned to obey His call, and 
to follow Him ; and we rejoice to think, that even 
to those not yet in His fold the words are appli- 
cable — Them also I must bring ; and they shall 
hear my voice : and there shall be one fold, and one 
shepherd. 



THE MORE A. 



309 



It may be not unworthy of remark, that I have 
seen in iEgina, and other parts of Greece, that 
kind of oxgoad described by Maundrell, as illustra- 
tive of the instrument with which Shanigar killed 
600 men (Judges iii. 31). It is often eight or nine 
feet in length ; and is furnished at one end with 
the goad, and at the other with a large weapon-like 
piece of iron, which is used for cleaning the plough- 
share. It was, no doubt, this latter part of the 
instrument which Sham gar used as a battle-axe, and 
thus killed so many of his enemies. 



POROS. 

March 14, 18.28 — It was almost eight hours be- 
fore we landed at Poros, from iEgina. On the 
passage, the volcanic Peninsula of Methana is an 
interesting object ; and from Poros the views are 
beautiful. The harbour is uncommonly excellent, 
having two entrances, and vessels of the largest 
dimensions find secure anchorage. It is bordered 
by fertile plains, particularly in the direction of Da- 
mala (the Ancient Trcezen), which are surrounded 
by picturesque hills. 

March 15 — I paid visits to some of the principal 
inhabitants. It can scarcely be expected that much 
religious knowledge will be imparted by a single 
visit ; but a friendly spirit is conciliated, and some 
general impressions are produced, which may be 



310 



TOUR IN 



of considerable service to Missionary operations. 
I am glad to observe a very amicable disposition, 
wherever I go ; and I am not without hopes that 
English Ministers may, in time, secure to such a 
degree the confidence of the Greeks, that they will 
consult us freely on religious subjects. After these 
visits, my friend Logothetes conducted me across 
the narrow isthmus, which is little more than a bank 
of sand, into the Island of Calauria. We first 
directed our course to the Monastery, a building 
most delightfully situated. We met with a very 
friendly reception from the Caloyers, of whom more 
than ten are stated residents : many of them are 
exiles from Mount Athos ; others are from the 
Monastery of St. Luke, in Livadia. One old man 
professed to be 100 years old. 1 After much con- 
versation of a useful tendency, the kind Prior sent 
us forward, on our route to the Temple of Neptune, 
on mules. 

It is long since I have been delighted with such 
scenery as now fell under my eye ; we mounted 
hills clothed with wood, and discovered, on every 
side, objects the most interesting and beautiful. 
The weather was brilliant, almost beyond concep- 
tion; the sun shining with the utmost splendour, 

1 Such instances of longevity are not uncommon in Greece. I have 
been informed, that in the Island of Angistri, opposite to JEgina, there is a 
man residing who is 136 years old, and who has a son in the same island 
aged 102. He remembers the Venetians in the Morea. 



THE MOREA. 



311 



and not having, as yet, sufficient power to incom- 
mode us with the heat of his rays. Beneath our 
feet, Flora was displaying a rich assemblage of 
blossoms. I discerned species of Cistus, Phyteuma, 
Silene, Hyacinthus, Anemone, and, above all, large 
quantities of that most elegant of flowers, Anagallis 
coerulea. The immense quantities of lemon-trees 
also attracted my attention: they quite fill up a 
large glen behind the Monastery, and colour it with 
their yellow fruit. Such was the effect of the 
scenery on my companion, that he exclaimed, " To- 
day we have entered into Paradise ! " But the 
prospect from the site of the Temple exceeded all : 
iEgina, with its town; Attica, with its classical 
mountains, and with the Acropolis distinctly visible ; 
Cithgeron too, and even the snowy summits beyond 
it; the Promontory of Methana — a " sea of glass," 
while 

" Soft o'er its surface the cloud- shadows sail : " 

these, and innumerable other objects, render the 
spot most interesting. Add to this, it was here that 
the Prince of Orators met his death : to this Temple 
he took refuge, when he had nought else to succour 
him : and here he took the poison, when visited by 
the agent of Antipater. What shall we say of 
Demosthenes? His unrivalled oratorical talents 
none will ever deny. But whoever reads Mitford's 
History of Greece will see the charm dissolved, 



312 



TOUR IN 



which before surrounded his moral character. The 
Scholar will feel pained at finding one of his idols 
divested of its false brilliancy ; and will exclaim, 
with a sigh, " The Historian speaks too true !" and 
the Christian will lament to find one good man less 
in the world : — but truth is great, and must prevail. 
Ah ! on that solemn day, when all characters shall 
be presented in their true colours, what awful dis- 
coveries will be made ! How many, once covered 
with this world's applause, will be consigned to 
universal and un-ending execration! — and how 
many, formerly despised and rejected of men, will 
become partakers of that glory which the Eternal 
Son had with the Father before the world was ! — 
Eternal glory, then, and not transient, be our 
object ! 1 

We descended from the site of the Temple, to a 
retreat on the other side of the island ; where we 
found Gregorius, an old Pro-hegoumenos. This 
man belongs to the very strictest sect of his re- 
ligion : and, though I am become particularly averse 
to controversy with strangers, he absolutely forced 
me into a discussion on Baptism and other topics. 
I am glad that I was enabled to maintain the 
Truth in a very friendly manner, and to hold to 
the grand point, ' The Bible, and nothing but 

1 An English Gentleman asked Lord Byron, at. Missolonghi, " What do you 
think of Mitford ? " The words above mentioned, " The Historian speaks 
too true ! " were here his answer. 



THE MOREA. 



313 



the Bible,' without needlessly wounding his pre- 
judices. 

March 16, 1828 — Called with Logothetes on the 
Bishop. His Diocese comprehends Hydra, Poros, 
and ^Egina. He observed, that in these times the 
religion of many persons had become mechanical, 
consisting merely in the performance of outward 
Services, whilst there was no concern to worship 
God in spirit and truth. I met with a sad instance 
of flattery : a native of Constantinople, whom I had 
seen in the morning at the Bishop's, meeting me in 
the street, actually said, amongst other words of an 
import almost similar, 2e Xarpeva, " I adore thee ! " 
This is worse than a letter I once received from a 
Priest, who is now a Bishop, in which he commenced, 
" Most divine Father." What a shameful and de- 
based creature is man ! 1 

March 17 — I am informed that Poros contains 
1300 houses, and 10,000 inhabitants ; but this is 
probably an exaggeration. It will always be a place 
of some importance, on account of its excellent har- 
bour. The inhabitants are almost all employed in 
maritime pursuits. Albanian is the language of 
domestic life, but Modern Greek is universally 
understood. 

This morning I sent my man to sell Scriptures, 
but he sold only four large Testaments. Dr. Russ, 

' Such adulation is generally the prelude to a request for money. 
P 



314 



TOUR IN 



an American Physician, had been so kind as to take 
charge of some Scriptures sent hither by Mr. Brewer, 
but few have been sold, probably because they have 
not been exposed in the street. I find, almost 
invariably, that when this is not the case, few are 
disposed of. 

Accompanied Logothetes across the water into 
the Morea. I had my attention soon directed to the 
practice of grafting the olive-trees, to which St. 
Paul alludes (Romans xi. 17, 20, 23, 24). My 
friend shewed me a few wild-olives ; but by far the 
greater number are such as have been grafted. He 
informs me, that it is the usual practice in Greece 
to graft, from a good tree, upon the wild olive. I 
also noticed the manner in which the vine is cut, or 
purged (John xv. 2). Only two or three of the 
principal sprouts are permitted to grow up from the 
root ; the rest are cut off : and this practice is often 
called, by the Greeks, cleaning. After walking 
for some time, we arrived at a very interesting 
object. A forest of lemon-trees extends up the 
hills, and affords a most beautiful appearance, loaded 
with its golden fruit. Logothetes computes that 
there are more than 10,000 lemon- trees. In all 
directions, men were employed in gathering the 
lemons ; but the principal season is December and 
January. In time of peace, cargoes of this fruit are 
sent to Constantinople and other places. 



THE MOREA. 



315 



HYDRA. 

March 19, 1828 — I was received at Hydra, with 
much hospitality, by Basil Badures. According to 
a calculation lately made, there are 18,000 Hydriots 
resident in the island : besides these, are 2000 or 
3000 strangers. 

The condition of the Youth of Hydra is most un- 
happy : there are no Tutors, no Libraries, no means 
of passing their time usefully : they seem to grow up 
in complete inaction. I know not how life can be 
endured in such a manner. 

March 23 — Having obtained permission from the 
Primates to preach, I mounted the pulpit in the 
principal Church, after the close of the Liturgy. I 
spoke for about an hour, and afterwards conversed 
with the Hegoumenos and others of the Clergy. I 
informed them of the zeal of my countrymen for the 
extension of Christianity ; of the exertions of the 
Bible Society ; of the conversion of the South- Sea 
Islands : and of similar subjects. 

I have been greatly shocked with various recitals 
given me relative to the state of anarchy in which 
Hydra has long been placed. A man died here 
some time since who confessed, on his death-bed, 
that he had murdered seventeen men and one wo- 
man. Another Hydriot is still living with impunity, 
who has killed the father of the Conduriottis, and 

P 2 



316 



TOUR IN 



five or six other Greeks : one of these was his 
brother-in-law. At the breaking out of the Revolu- 
tion, he assassinated all the Jews who were in the 
island, eleven in number; and he has murdered 
eleven or twelve Turks in cold blood. 

March 24, 1828— The persons to whom Mr. 
Brewer and I had entrusted the Scriptures for sale 
have not been very active. One of them has sold 
five copies of the large, and three of the small 
edition : the other, eleven of the large, and two of 
the small. I myself have been more successful ; 
having sold, during the few days I have spent here, 
twenty-three copies of the large, and thirty-six of 
the small edition. I also sold four copies of Mr. 
Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles, 
and a considerable number of Tracts. To some 
poor persons I gave a few Testaments, and other 
books, gratis. I departed from Hydra, thankful 
for all the favours which I have received in that 
island. As the weather was exceedingly calm, we 
did not arrive at Kastri (the Ancient Hermione) 
till after sun-set. 



KASTRI. 

March 25 — They inform me that there are in 
Kastri 200 houses. I have been conversing with 
the four Priests who live here, and with other 
inhabitants. To each of the Priests I presented an 



THE MORE A. 



317 



Ancient Greek Testament, and seven copies of the 
large Testament were purchased : many more would 
have been sold, if I had had them. We walked 
together over the site of the Ancient Hermione : 
little or nothing remains of all its temples and 
buildings. Tragopogon porrifolius, Reseda lutea, 
and many other ornaments of the vegetable king- 
dom, now flower and flourish where men once lived. 
The ancient town was situated on a peninsula, 
between two excellent harbours. Kastri is built 
on a rising ground behind it. Pevers prevail here 
in August and September. The inhabitants are, 
for the most part, poor ; and support themselves 
either by working as day-labourers, or by a few 
boats which sail to the neighbouring ports. I found 
a Schoolmaster teaching Ancient Greek to twenty 
Scholars ; but he was preparing to depart. 

March 26, 1828 — This morning I rose very early, 
in order to be ready for Church. The Sermon, 
however, did not commence till sun- rise. The bell 
sounded, and I found a considerable Congregation 
assembled in the Church, called the Metropolis. 
After an immense number of Kyrie Eleesons, a 
Priest called out " Begin;" and I accordingly 
commenced, with a short prayer. I afterward 
preached from the words, Be ye reconciled to God. 
The people, who are almost all of the lower orders, 
seemed lost in astonishment ; being evidently quite 
perplexed at hearing a Frank preaching about 



318 



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Christ, whilst they did not observe him kissing 
pictures, crossing himself, or performing any other 
of those actions which they always account the most 
essential marks of Christianity. I confide in God 
alone for a happy result of my endeavours. 

Almost immediately after the Sermon, I went to 
a Monastery, which is at the distance of half-an- 
hour : an Inscription over the gateway denotes that 
it is dedicated to our Saviour and the wonder- 
working Anargyri. Here I found a considerable 
number of Manuscripts, and spent much time in 
examining them. Among the rest, there are two 
Lectionaries of the Acts of the Apostles and the 
Epistles. They are evidently of no great antiquity, 
as they are on glazed paper, with cursive letters 
and accents. It is not, however, unworthy of notice, 
that both of them omit the disputed passage, 1 John 
v. 7. 

March 27, 1828 — Conversing with the Hegou- 
menos and another Caloyer, the latter made a 
remark, which I have frequently heard repeated in 
Greece ; viz. that the English believe in the trans- 
migration of souls. Whence this idea had its 
origin, it would be difficult to determine. Another 
man lately observed, that he had always understood 
there were exceedingly few Christians in England. 



THE MORE A. 



319 



KRANIDI. 

The distance from Kastri to this place is an hour- 
and-a-half. They assure me that there are here 
700 houses. Soon after my arrival, I called on 
Joseph, the Bishop of Andrussa, who had written 
to me a very friendly letter whilst I was in iEgina. 
He is one of the most virtuous and well-informed 
Prelates of the Morea. We had much interesting 
conversation ; and he described to me his sufferings 
whilst detained a prisoner, with the other Bishops, 
in Tripolitza. Having observed that it was the 
spoils of Tripolitza which gave rise to the dissen- 
sions and other evils which proved so injurious to 
the Greek cause, he added, that this circumstance 
gave him to understand the reason why God had 
commanded an utter destruction of the spoils taken 
at Jericho. Indeed, the evils which have been 
occasioned, during the Greek Revolution, by the 
captive women and the plunder, seem calculated to 
throw some light, not only on the prohibition of 
spoil, but also on the command of utter extermina- 
tion laid upon the Israelites. The Turkish women 
have been a snare even to several of the Greek 
Bishops ; and they have thereby occasioned not 
only incalculable injury to these Ecclesiastics them- 
selves, but they have also brought infinite scandal 
on their profession. I walked, with a nephew of 



320 



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the Bishop, to a Monastery, about a mile distant, 
at the port. This young man informed me, that 
during the three years which the Bishop has resided 
here, no less than twenty-eight murders have been 
perpetrated at Kranidi. In the Monastery, 1 looked 
over a volume of Modern-Greek Sermons : accord- 
ing to the table of Contents, one of the Discourses 
shews that ' the Holy Virgin suffered more than all 
the Martyrs, and even more than Christ Himself! ' 

Kranidi has the reputation of being an extremely 
healthy place. It suffers, however, from the scar- 
city of water : no springs are to be met with : a few 
wells, some of which become frequently dry in 
summer, are the only resource of the inhabitants. 
In Hydra and Kranidi, where there are no fountains 
of water, but where that precious article must be 
obtained from precarious cisterns or wells, we 
understand the force of J eremiah ii. 13 : My people 
have forsaken me, the fountain of living waters ; 
and hewed them out cisterns, broken cisterns, that 
hold no water. The vicinity of Kranidi is cultivated 
to a considerable extent, being chiefly laid out in 
vineyards. Many of the inhabitants are also em- 
ployed in maritime pursuits, being celebrated for 
their seamanship. The common language here, as 
well as at Hydra and Kastri, is Albanian ; and 
some of the women understand nothing else : the 
men all understand Modern Greek. 

March 28, 1828 — This morning, though I have 



THE MOREA. 



321 



not mounted a pulpit, I have had an excellent 
opportunity of preaching the Truth. Having called 
on the Bishop, he drew me into conversation on 
Saint Worship, and other practices which need 
reformation in the Eastern Church. It led to a 
lengthened discussion, in which I found occasion to 
lay before the Bishop, and all present, many im- 
portant truths : I am happy to say, that a very 
favourable impression appeared to be produced. 
The CEkonomos and others afterward paid me a 
visit. By one of them, I sent a copy of Mr. Jowett's 
Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles to a 
Hermit residing on the Island of Belle Poule : he 
is represented as being a very learned man, who 
reads every book which he can possibly obtain. I 
regret, exceedingly, that I have not with me any 
more of the Modern- Greek Testaments : I might 
have sold a considerable number at Kastri and 
Kranidi. I distributed a few of the Hellenic, which 
I had remaining. I spent nearly three hours with 
the Bishop, and find much reason to rejoice in the 
friendly disposition which he manifests. He inti- 
mated his intention of corresponding with me. I 
was particularly delighted to find that the Commen- 
tary on the Acts, which I had sent him from 
JEgina, had afforded him the greatest satisfaction, 
He could scarcely find words strong enough to 
express his admiration of it : he preferred it much 
to their own Commentaries. 

p 5 



322 



TOUR IN 



NAPOLI DI ROMANIA, 

March 29, 1828 — For the second time, I find 
myself in this celebrated fortress. We sailed from 
the Port of Kranidi at eight o'clock, and in six 
hours arrived here. 

March 30 — I have distributed several copies of 
Lord Lyttleton on St. Paul, and of Bishop Porteus's 
Evidences — books which I find of great value in 
the present crisis. 

March 31 — Since I was in Napoli, our Agent has 
sold all the Scriptures with which he was entrusted ; 
viz. 30 small Testaments, 17 large, and one Helle- 
nic ; and he has paid me, deducting the per-centage, 
124 piastres, 30 paras. I hope soon to send him a 
much larger supply. Visited with much pleasure 
the Lancasterian School: it has 170 scholars, and 
is in excellent order : many Boys repeated, at length, 
passages of Scripture History. The Malta Publi- 
cations have been much used in this school. Called 
on N". Skuphas, and conversed with his sisters. 
They shewed me the " Pilgrim's Progress," and 
" Law on Education," which their father had sent 
them from Smyrna. In the latter work he had 
written, " Read it once, and twice, and often." 

April 1, 1828 — I presented a supply of books, for 
the School of Demitzani, to Niketas Kallas, one of 



THE MOREA. 



323 



the Managing Committee; and others for the 
Lancasterian School in Napoli. 

I extract from a former Journal the following 
Narrative : 

Oct. 17, 1827 — I have been highly interested by 
a visit, which we have just paid to Griva, Com- 
mandant of the Palamidi. This Chief, after having 
held possession of that important fortress for more 
than a year, found himself unwilling to give it up ; 
and, impelled by his vindictive feelings, actually 
waged war on his countrymen. About two months 
ago, he commenced firing on the lower castle and 
on the town, and even proceeded to throw bombs. 
No less than one hundred and fifty persons became 
the victims of this outrage. 

On reaching the summit of the tremendous rock 
on which the fortress is built, I was surprised to 
find Griva himself, waiting to receive us. He is a 
fine-looking young man ; and, apparelled as he was 
in a magnificent Albanian dress, he presented such a 
noble and warlike figure as T had never before seen. 
After receiving us with a friendly Greek welcome, 
he introduced us to his quarters ; where his wife, 
a young lady of elegant appearance, arrayed in a 
handsome Turkish costume, exhibited herself for a 
few moments, and then suddenly disappeared ; — this 
Mussulman retirement of females still existing 
among some of the Greek Clans. With Griva we 



324 



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had much conversation. I told him, as I do many 
others, the history of the Bible Society ; and left 
with him, for the use of the Garrison, two copies 
of the New Testament. Judge of our surprise at 
his answer : — " They are a good thing 1 for those 
who can read : but I do not know how to read." 
I have been sometimes shocked, particularly in 
Smyrna, at meeting with Greek Ladies, of elegant 
manners and appearance, who have made a similar 
confession : but I was thunder-struck, to find a man, 
so prince-like in demeanour, and Commandant of 
the famous fortress of Palamidi, making such a 
discovery. He expressed, however, his regret — 
" His father had never provided such an advantage 
for him." Our conversation turned chiefly on the 
politics of the day : he threw out hints, which he 
evidently meant as a justification of his recent 
conduct: " Men," he said, " who possess no merit, 
who have never fought for their country, are pre- 
ferred to offices of importance ; while those who 
have distinguished themselves to the utmost are 
passed by with disregard." He also intimated, that 
he waited the coming of Count Capo d'Istria, in 
order to give up the fortress to him. 

After accompanying us, with one of his brothers, 
to the various works of the fortification, he intro- 
duced us to another brother, who was laid up with 
sickness. They described to us the warlike habits 
of the family. They told us that they never lived 



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325 



on the three articles of bread, meat, and wine 
together : if they had bread, they had no meat : if 
they had meat, they had no bread. For months in 
succession, they never changed their dress : they 
were accustomed to heat, cold, rains, and snows — 
to wade rivers up to the neck — and to encounter 
many other appalling hardships. If they were two 
months without an expedition, they grew sick. They 
had never paid tribute to the Grand Signor : when 
they could not find Turks to fight, they attacked 
their own countrymen ! 

With all the crimes of Griva, a Christian judg- 
ment will find room for compassion. It is true, he 
has turned his cannon upon his countrymen, and the 
voice of his brother s blood cries for vengeance 
against him : but no one ever taught him to read 
in the Gospel — Do unto all men as you would they 
should do unto you. His early education informed 
him, that there is nothing more noble than to despoil 
his fellow-creatures — to bathe his sword in the 
blood of his enemies — to disregard all interests 
except those of his family — to live for the present 
moment, nor ever to think of eternity. Can we 
compare the guilt of such a man with the crimes of 
one bred up in all the light and knowledge of civilized 
and Christian Europe? I must own, that I felt so 
much interest in his character, and so much appre- 
hension of his future fate, impelled too by the very 
kind attention which he had shown us, that, after I 



326 



TOUR IN 



had returned to my lodgings, the thought occurred 
to me of going up once more to the Palamidi, and 
of advising him, as a friend, to yield to the Govern- 
ment, and not to bring ruin upon himself by per- 
sisting in opposition. The recollection, that inter- 
ference in politics might easily involve consequences 
utterly destructive of my Missionary character and 
usefulness, led me to abandon the idea. But how 
painful is the thought, that such a Chieftain should 
be lost to his country and to himself! I earnestly 
implore God, that, if his offences have exceeded the 
measure of human forgiveness, he may yet find 
mercy with Him who said to a dying malefactor, 
To-day thou shalt be with me in paradise ! 



ARGOS. 

April 2, 1828 — I reached this place, from Napoli, 
in about three hours. Napoli is an unhealthy spot ; 
and though it is much improved by the new police- 
regulations, still it is a dangerous place. Dr. 
Bailly, a French Physician, is said to advise — M In 
Napoli, eat no meat, drink no wine ; but as soon as 
you arrive at Argos, eat and drink whatever you 
please." I am glad to observe a large extent of 
corn land near Argos ; but I am informed that much 
less than usual is this year cultivated. Too often 
the proverb has been literally verified, in regard to 



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327 



Greece — One soweth, and another reapeth ; (John 
iv. 37.) 

Approaching Argos, we found the Panitza flow- 
ing with water, but the Xerias (Inachus) dry. Last 
winter, two boys were drowned in the Inachus, 
attempting to cross it when the waters were high. 
I have found here three Schools, each of them with 
about twenty scholars ; and distributed Tracts 
amongst them. Two of the Demogerontes and the 
Politarch called upon me. After giving them books, 
one of them read aloud the whole of the February 
Number of the " Philanthropist." The Politarch, 
whose tall and martial figure appears to have raised 
him to his post, inquired whether any reward after 
death was to be expected, for fighting in defence of 
country and religion. 

I examined the Oracular Cave described by Dr. 
Clarke. The fictile superstructure and altar have 
entirely disappeared ; but the cavern, which was 
employed to delude the superstitious multitude, still 
remains. It would have been well if such delusions 
had been practised by the Antients only ; but the 
history of Modern Greece would, I fear, be a much 
longer catalogue of lying wonders. 

Niketas, one of the most celebrated Chieftains 
of the Morea, is here at present. On account of 
his warlike deeds, he has received the appellation 
TQvpKo<pa,yo<;, " Turk-eater." He described to me, 
with much interest, some of his most celebrated 



328 



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achievements. He estimates the loss of the Turks 
at Dervenaki, and the other Pass, in which he 
engaged the Pasha of Drama, at 6000 men. Like 
Kolokotroni, he was formerly in General Church's 
regiment, in Zante. He spoke with warmth, as all 
other Greeks do, of the debt of gratitude which they 
owe to Great Britain, for undertaking their cause. 
Captain Hamilton he called ^%07r«T^, " Adopted 
Father of Greece." 



TRIPOLITZA. 

* April 3, 1828 — I write amidst the Ruins of Tri- 
politza. Few places afford more scope for serious 
reflection. View it seven years ago, filled with a 
population secure and numerous — the abode of Beys, 
Pashas, and every rank of the community. Here 
the proud Turk stalked along in his fancied great- 
ness, little dreaming of the terrible overthrow which 
so speedily awaited him. Then behold Tripolitza 
suddenly filled with alarm and apprehension, crowded 
with refugees, so as probably to contain within its 
walls 40,000 persons, and enduring a blockade of 
seven months ! Next, the tremendous catastrophe ! 
— thousands upon thousands are slaughtered, thou- 
sands are reduced to slavery — the streets literally 
flow with blood ! Immediately followed a visitation 
of Providence on the infuriated victors — a pesti- 
lence, which extended itself to the most-distant 



THE MOREA. 



329 



parts of the Morea, and which carried off five or six 
thousand souls ! Afterwards, Tripolitza becomes a 
flourishing Greek town ; and is, apparently, given 
up to the same fatal security which before had 
seized the Turks. But suddenly the news is 
brought that Ibrahim Pasha approaches — the town 
is evacuated — the spoil is left for the conqueror, 
and once more Tripolitza is a Mussulman posses- 
sion. Last of all, but thirty-seven days ago, the 
Arab army abandons the place, but not till it had 
utterly destroyed every building within it ! Tripo- 
litza is now empty, and void, and waste (Nahum ii. 
10) ; but the poor Greeks are beginning to flock 
again to their desolate houses, and once more hope 
for peace and security. 

We set out from Argos very early in the morn- 
ing, and were almost eleven hours in reaching 
Tripolitza. The road is, for the most part, dreary; 
leading over lofty and barren hills, the principal 
of which is Mount Parthenius. In England, where 
the roads are so excellent, we do not readily per- 
ceive the force and just application of the Scriptural 
figures, derived from a stone of stumbling, and rock 
of offence, (Isaiah viii. 14, and similar passages); 
but in the East, where the roads are, for the most 
part, nothing more than an accustomed track, the 
constant danger and impediment arising to travellers 
from stones and rocks fully explain the allusion. 
Tripolitza is situated on a lofty plain, surrounded 



330 



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on all sides by mountains ; so as strongly to remind 
me of the words, As the mountains are round about 
Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His people, 
&c. (Psalm cxxv. 2.) The climate is remarkably 
cold in winter ; snow in large quantities, and frost 
of a severe description, being frequent. In summer 
it is considered an agreeable residence, on account 
of the coolness of the nights. The Demogerontes 
and others, treated me with kindness. The ruins 
by which we were surrounded afforded an excellent 
topic from which to offer serious observations ; and 
I directed their attention to a nobler city, to one 
which hath foundations, ivhose builder and maker 
is God. I also gave them some books for the 
Lancasterian School, which they intend to renew. 
In the precincts of one of the principal Mosques, 
an apartment formerly occupied by one of the at- 
tendants employed in Mussulman Worship had in 
part escaped destruction : there I spent the night. 



MISTRA. 

April 4, 1828. — I arrived here after a very long 
journey. We left Tripolitza about three o'clock 
in the morning, and reached Mistra only an hour 
before sunset. After crossing the Plain of Tri- 
politza, we first descended the dry channel of winter- 
streams, and had uninteresting scenery. Afterwards, 



THE MOREA. 



331 



the climate became genial, and the country beau- 
tiful. The shrubs are most ornamental ; at one 
time the hills being white with a beautiful Erica ; 
at other times yellow with a showy Spartium. The 
Arbutus, Evergreen Oak, Mastic, and other shrubs, 
grow most luxuriantly. I also observed the Anemone 
apennina, the Fritillaria meleagris, a fine species 
of Iris, and other beautiful flowers. But little 
cultivation was visible either to-day or yesterday. 
For the last three years, much land has been suf- 
fered to lie waste. The prophecy, Isaiah vii. 23, 24, 
has been almost verified in the Morea ; and the 
traveller adopts the language of Jeremiah (iv. 2, 6) : 
I beheld, and, lo ! the fruitful place was a wilder- 
ness, and all the cities thereof were broken down. 
Descending on the vale of the Eurotas, Mount 
Taygetus bursts upon the view in a most striking 
manner. The Eurotas was flowing clear and rapid, 
and might easily have been forded. We crossed it 
by a high bridge of one arch. 

According to the information which is given me, 
Mistra contained, before the Revolution, 800 houses. 1 
At present, all the Turks are gone, and there are 
about 150 Christian Families. The Arabs came 
four times to Mistra ; twice unexpectedly : they 

' Pouqueville and Sir William Gell give a much more considerable 
population. My informants, in regard to the former population, were 
persons of good information; and the Priests computed the present num- 
ber of inhabitants by actually naming and enumerating each family. 



TOUR IN 



burnt all the houses and churches, whilst the 
wretched inhabitants fled to the mountains. In one 
of these expeditions, the Arabs actually ascended 
to the very summit of Mount Taygetus. 

April 5, 1828. — I find myself amidst the Ruins 
of Ancient Sparta. The place is now called Ma- 
goula, being about three-quarters-of-an-hour dis- 
tant from Mistra. The walk is one of the most 
delightful that can be conceived, leading amidst 
olive and mulberry plantations and vineyards, and 
surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting 
scenery. Add to this, " the voice of the nightin- 
gale never was mute." And who, except for the 
ruined hamlets which occurred in the way, would 
ever have conceived that the tide of war had so 
recently and so furiously swept over these fields ? 
The ruins cover a considerable space of ground, 
but have little in them that is striking to a super- 
ficial observer. A Theatre is the most remarkable 
object. The site of the town is now cultivated. 
The scenery is thus described by Dodwell : — " All 
the plains and mountains that I have seen are sur- 
passed, in the variety of their combinations and the 
beauty of their appearance, by the Plain of Lace- 
daBmon and Mount Taygetus. The landscape may 
be exceeded in the dimensions of its objects ; but 
what can exceed it in beauty of form and richness 
of colouring ? " 

I met with a man amongst the ruins who told me 



THE MORE A. 



333 



a story which is, I trust, characteristic of one Mo- 
dern Spartan only. He choked one of the Turkish 
Prisoners at Napoli to death, by applying his 
fingers to his throat ! This method of execution 
was preferred, in order that no injury might be 
done to his rich clothing. 

April 6, 1828. — This morning, soon after mid- 
night, almost as brisk a fire of musketry commenced 
as if Ibrahim Pasha was again approaching. In 
this manner the Greeks were displaying their joy 
at the arrival of Easter. Long before sun-rise my 
friends were faring sumptuously on lamb and other 
dainties, finding such a repast a fine treat after the 
fast of fifty days. In the afternoon, I accompanied 
Agallopulos and many other friends to the Metro- 
polis. Here we conversed much with the Bishop 
and others, and were present at the Vespers. Eas- 
ter-day is the chief festival of the year in the Greek 
Church ; and the Gospel is chaunted, with innu- 
merable prefaces and repetitions. An accompani- 
ment on the bell had rather a ridiculous effect. For 
forty days after Easter the common forms of salu- 
tation are suspended in Greece ; and in their room 
are substituted the words, " Christ is risen : " the 
reply is, " He is risen indeed." It is usual, also, 
for the parties to kiss each other ; and to present 
eggs, coloured red. In the evening, I rode up to 
the Castle, with the General, George Iatrakos, and 
spent the night with him. 



334 



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April 7, 1828. — I visited the Ancient Amyclae, 
now called Sklavo-chori. The ride was exceed- 
ingly delightful, leading through the Village of 
Agianni, and over the plains of the Eurotas. Passing 
under the olive-trees, I noticed, as I have fre- 
quently done before, how easily the accident which 
befel Absalom might actually occur. It is neces- 
sary to be continually on one's guard against the 
branches of trees ; and when the hair is worn in 
large locks floating down the back, as was the case 
with a young man of the party, any thick boughs 
interposing in the path might easily dislodge a rider 
from his seat, and catch hold of his flowing hair. 
The custom of wearing the hair exceedingly long, 
which St. Paul condemns as effeminate, in his First 
Epistle to the Corinthians (xi. 14), is still common 
in Greece, especially amongst the Priesthood. Ab- 
salom doubtless wore his hair in this manner (2 Sam. 
xiv. 26); and Homer celebrates continually the 

Agianni has still 80 families : before Ibrahim 
Pasha's arrival it had 100. We passed by a Turkish 
tower-like residence about one hour further, in 
which fifteen Greeks kept Ibrahim Pasha's army at 
bay for fifteen days ; and, last of all, whan he was 
on the point of blowing them up with a mine, they 
effected their escape to the mountains, in the night. 



1 " Achseans, with the head of flowing hair." 



THE MOREA. 



335 



Small towers of this description abound in Greece ; 
and they are frequently mentioned in the Scrip- 
tures (Matt. xxi. 33. Luke xiii. 4 ; xiv. 28 ; and in 
the Old Testament). Silk is a very important pro- 
duction of the Province of Mistra : before the 
Revolution, 18,000 okkas were yielded annually : 
at present, only 7000 or 8000. 

I have distributed a considerable number of books 
in Mistra, and hope to send many more from Na- 
poli : I have also sent books to the villages of this 
province. In the whole Province of Mistra there 
are said to be 30,000 souls. 

In the evening, I walked up to the Metropolis, 
to take leave of the Bishop. He pressed me so 
strongly to spend the night with him, that I could 
not refuse. My visit afforded me such an oppor- 
tunity of making known the Truth as I always 
highly value. The Bishop was very inquisitive on 
religious subjects ; and I was enabled to inform him 
of the most important points of difference between 
our respective Churches, with great freedom. The 
permission, which Protestant Bishops and Clergy- 
men have to marry, appeared extraordinary to him 
and his attendants: he approved of it, however; 
and spoke of an Eighth General Council, when the 
same liberty would be given to themselves. I met 
with much hospitality and friendship at Mistra ; and 
feel convinced that such amicable intercourse with 
the Greeks may, by the Divine Blessing, be greatly 



336 TOUR IN 

serviceable to the cause of Truth. If the Greeks 
are not hindered by their Government, I believe 
there will soon be a wide and effectual door open 
amongst them. 

LEONDARI. 

April 9, 1828 — The Bishop, at parting, requested 
me to write to him. At eight o'clock, started for 
Leondari. After reaching the Eurotas, we pro- 
ceeded, for a considerable distance, along its banks; 
it is beautifully fringed with the Platanus, with 
poplars, and other trees : villages appear to the 
left, on the declivities of the mountains. We left 
the Eurotas at the Village of Georgitxa. Here we 
were overtaken by a very heavy rain, which we 
were obliged to bear patiently for more than an 
hour. At length we reached the Mill of Logara, 
where we found shelter for the night. The Village 
of Longanico is an hour distant. In the mill, I 
met with a Caloyer from the Monastery of St. 
George, which is four hours distant, on the moun- 
tains. He could not read ; but I sent some Tracts 
by him to the Hegoumenos. He told us, that the 
other day a wolf in the neighbourhood had destroyed 
eighteen sheep. Oh ! that there had been no 
wolves of another and a worse description in these 
countries ! But, alas ! some of those who have 
assumed to themselves the office of Christian Teach- 



THE MOREA. 



337 



ers must be referred to the number of those of whom 
St. Paul prophesied, Acts xx. 29, — After my de- 
parting shall grievous wolves enter in among you, 
not sparing the flock. 

" Wolves shall succeed for Teachers, grievous wolves, 
Who all the sacred mysteries of Heaven 
To their own vile advantages shall turn, 
Of lucre and ambition." 1 

April 10, 1828 — livery thing" reminds me that I 
am in Arcadia : the country all the way to Leon- 
dari is enchanting ; Nature appears in all her wild- 
ness : the whole land, hills, and dales, is a beau- 
tiful forest, or rather a natural park. The spaces 
between the trees are occupied by pasture-grounds, 
where the shepherds feed their flocks ; and they 
have, invariably, the large crook, which we observe 
in pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses. 

At Leondari we find the same desolation which 
everywhere else marks the steps of Ibrahim Pasha. 
A few houses have lately been rendered tenantable. 
I observed several ancient and almost ruined 
Churches, resembling those near the Castle of Mis- 
tra : one of them served as a Mosque before the 
Revolution : now, again, it has become a Christian 
Temple. Before the war, there were at Leondari 
59 or 60 Grecian Families, and 200 Turkish : now 
about 20 Greek Families have reassembled. My 



1 Milton's Paradise Lost, Book xii. 508. 

Q 



338 



TOUR IN 



principal acquaintance here is the Oekonomos Pana- 
giottes : he is a mild, pleasing character. I pre- 
sented him with a few books for the people, and 
engaged to send him more from Napoli. In his 
house I met with twelve or thirteen ragged pea- 
sants ; and delivered a Discourse to them, to which 
they listened with much attention. Here, as every- 
where, I gladly embrace every opportunity of tes- 
tifying repentance toicards God, and faith towards 
our Lord Jesus Christ. 



KARIDENA. 



April 11, 1828 — From Leondari we crossed the 
Plain of Megalopolis, to Karidena : the journey 
employed us six hours. The Ruins of Megalopolis 
were a short distance to the right, their situation 
being marked by a solitary cypress : on the left 
was Mount Lycaeus. About half way, we reached 
the Alpheus, and crossed it just below Karidena. 
Immediately after my arrival I gave away a few 
Tracts : but I soon had reason to repent this pro- 
ceeding, for the house was almost instantly beset 
by an immense number of boys, clamorous for books. 
I was unable to satisfy them, as my stock is but 
small. Went up to the Castle which Kolokotroni 
has lately built, and visited his mother. The old 
lady had with her a little boy, her great grandson. 
I was rather amused to hear her always designating 



THE MOREA. 



339 



her son, the celebrated Chieftian, by the appella- 
tion, " The Old Man." She soon began conversing 
concerning ** the Almighty :" and thus afforded me 
an opportunity of shewing the importance of having 
that Great Being for our Friend. She requested 
one of the Captains, who was present, to give me 
*' the answer/' 

April 12, 1828 — Before the Revolution, there 
were in Karidena 200 houses, of which 36 were 
Turkish, the rest Greeks : there are now only 82 
families here. In the province are 140 Villages, 
which Spilios Kolas counted off to me on his string 
of beads. The province may contain 30,000 souls. 

Kolokotroni having informed me, in iEgina, that 
I should see at Karidena " the retreats of the 
Greeks," I to-day went to examine one of them 
The excursion has been most extraordinary. After 
descending a steep path, almost to the channel 
of the Alpheus, we turned off upon the right bank, 
climbing along the edge of a dangerous precipice, 
and having precipices far more tremendous impending 
over our heads. The scenery is most romantic : on 
both sides, the river has three abrupt banks ; they 
terminate in hills of great height, and are adorned 
with the most beautiful forest scenery. The river 
rolls between, contracted into a very narrow chan- 
nel : and, at this time, it was roaring tumultuously 
along, being swollen by the late rains. The ca- 
vern, which was the object of our expedition, is in 
Q 2 



340 



TOUR IN 



the face of the rock, and it was not without danger 
that we scrambled up to it : we entered to a con- 
siderable distance, without reaching the extremity. 
In this cave, no less than 1000 persons, by actual 
enumeration, found shelter. They had provisions 
for five months ; and when the Arabs came and 
fired at the mouth of the cavern from the crest 
of the rock, they laughed at their efforts. The 
Israelites in ancient times resorted to a similar 
means of defence, Judges vi. 2. 1 Sam. xiii. 6 
Isaiah ii. 19. From one of the rocks above, the 
Greeks precipitated a poor Arab Prisoner. My 
attendant made the assertion, that his limbs parted 
from his body before he reached the bottom. 

At Karidena, it is still usual for school-boys to 
have a small clean board, on which the master 
writes the Alphabet, or any other lesson which he 
intends his scholars to read. As soon as one lesson 
is finished, the writing is washed out, or scraped 
out ; and the board may thus be continually em- 
ployed for writing new lessons. Not only does 
this instrument harmonize, in its use, with the 
writing-table, mentioned Luke i. 63, but the Greeks 
call it by the very same name, ^va/a'Sic*. 1 

April 13, 1828 — I preached in the principal 
Church, from the words, If ye then be risen with 
Christ, seek those things which are above : but I 

» I have since found that this Writing-table is common in other 
Greek Schools. 



THE MOREA. 



341 



lament to say, that I preached without energy and 
effect. Of what importance it is for a Minister 
of the Gospel to have his own mind always deeply 
affected by those important truths which he proclaims 
to others ! — then, and then only, will his words fall 
with weight upon the hearts of his hearers. " What 
can be more awful," says Baxter, " than a dead 
preacher preaching to dead hearers the living truths 
of the Living God ! " May such a character be 
never applicable to myself or any other Missionary ! 
The Greeks observe those early habits, in regard to 
the time of Divine Service, of which we find such 
frequent mention in the sacred writings. They have 
generally finished their Liturgy before an English- 
man leaves his bed : hence, at Hydra, Karidena, and 
other places where I have preached in the Churches, 
I have been literally in the situation of the Prophets, 
rising up early, and speaking unto them : (Jerem. 
vii. 13.) In Karidena I left fifty Tracts, for distri- 
bution, with the Oekonomos; besides others which 
I gave to a schoolmaster. 

Soon after the Service, I set out for the Mon- 
astery of Kalami : the road leads over picturesque 
hills and dales. Near to the Monastery, we came, 
to my surprise, to very extensive ruins of polygonal 
masonry : they are the remains of the Ancient 
Gortys. After conversing for a short time with the 
three or four Monks in the Monastery of Kalami, 
we proceeded to the Monastery of Agiannh Leaving 



342 



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the little Church of St. Andrew, which is situated 
on the banks of the Gortyna, we ascended one of 
the most romantic glens which I ever beheld. On 
both sides, the rocks tower to a prodigious height, 
having their precipitous faces adorned by the most 
elegant sylvan scenery. Down this tremendous 
height fall very beautiful cascades : at the bottom 
of the abyss, the Gortyna roars and dashes along, 
more frequently heard than seen. In the face of 
the rocks are many of those caves, in which, for the 
last three years, the Greeks have found refuge 
from Ibrahim Pasha. Most of them have the en- 
trance in part walled up ; and their situation and 
form give them, in some degree, the appearance 
of martins' nests. The Monastery of Agianni itself 
is nothing else than one of these caverns, with its 
exterior built up on a larger scale : it required no 
small toil to reach it. Here we found three or four 
Caloyers, and several families which had fled hither 
for refuge in these troublesome times. " Never," 
they said, " had a Frank made his appearance there 
before." I delivered to them a discourse on the 
danger of an unconverted state : they listened with 
much attention. 

The distance from hence to the Monastery of 
Philosophou, could we have employed wings to fly 
across the valley, is short ; but we had to descend 
and ascend, to cross the foaming Gortyna on a tree 
thrown across it, to climb over most abrupt and dan- 



THE MOREA. 



343 



gerous precipices, and to wander about in a thick 
forest without footpath. At last, after many a weary 
step, we reached the Monastery : our horses had gone 
round, from the Church of St. Andrew's, by another 
road. 

April 14, 1828 — In the Monastery of Philosophou, 
I have found several Manuscripts. One of them is 
a fine Lectionary of the Gospels, on vellum, and 
held in great veneration, as a miracle-working Gos- 
pel. There is also, on vellum, a Manuscript of St. 
Matthew; and various others, containing Discourses 
of different Fathers. 



DEMITZANI. 

Walked from the Philosophou to Demitzani. To 
my surprise, on approaching the town, a large 
portion of the inhabitants, headed by the Priests, 
came out to meet me. Bells also were rung; and 
patararoes fired. Little more could have been done, 
had the Governor himself arrived. Such a recep- 
tion as this I felt to be something more than is 
suitable to a Missionary, and would gladly have 
dispensed with it. It gave me, however, an oppor- 
tunity of addressing a great part of these, my kind 
friends, on the subject of Religion ; and they listened 
with seriousness. With two of the principal Priests 
I had some free conversation, and, I am happy to 



344 



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say, with good effect. I laboured to shew them that 
the important part of Religion was not either the 
immersing or sprinkling in Baptism ; nor even whe- 
ther the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father 
only, or from the Father and Son conjointly ; but 
that it consisted in a genuine conversion of the 
disposition and character. 

The School of Demitzani is by far the most cele- 
brated in the Morea. It was established sixty-five 
years ago, by Hadji Gerasimo. The first master 
was Agapius. Scholars resorted from all quarters ; 
and there were sometimes as many as 220. Many 
Bishops, and other distinguished characters were 
educated here : among the rest, Gregorius the Patri- 
arch, who was put to death by the Grand Signor. 
There was formerly a Library of about 1500 volumes 
connected with the School; but great part of the 
books have perished, having been used for cartridges 
at the siege of Tripolitza. 

There are about 350 houses in Demitzani ; and, 
most happily, they have escaped that general ruin in 
which almost every other part of the country has 
been involved. There are, at Demitzani, several 
powder-mills : but the inhabitants acknowledge that 
they cannot produce gunpowder equal to the 
European. 



THE MO RE A. 



345 



ZATOUNA. 

April 15, 1828 — I walked over to Zatoima, a 
neighbouring village of about 150 families, and was 
received with equal or even with greater honour 
than at Demitzani. The Priests and principal in- 
habitants met me on the brow of the hill, from 
which their village first makes its appearance ; and, 
with bell-ringing and firing of patararoes, accom- 
panied me to the church. Here all joined in singing 
an Easter Hymn ; which ended with the accustomed 
chaunt for the three Sovereigns who have so hap- 
pily interfered for the welfare of Greece. It was 
truly affecting to observe the enthusiastic manner in 
which they implored long life on these their bene- 
factors. As I had now a Congregation assembled 
before me, I delivered a regular Discourse from the 
Bishop's seat, pressing upon them those infinitely 
important interests, in comparison of which all else 
is less than nothing, and vanity. I also gave them 
an account of the Bible Society, and urged the 
importance of procuring and studying the Holy 
Scriptures. I am sorry to find that at Zatouna the 
old divisions have not yet ceased : they complained 
much to me of some individuals who disturb the 
peace of the community. They have actually ex- 
communicated five of them, and taken other steps 
Q 5 



346 



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of a nature rather too violent. Before I departed, 
I distributed Tracts amongst the Children of the 
School : 60 or 70 of them were assembled. 

A valuable relic of the Library of Demitzani still 
remains ; viz. a beautiful Manuscript of the Ho- 
milies of St. Basil. It is on vellum, large folio, 
beautifully illuminated. I also found a volume con- 
taining several Manuscripts bound up together. That 
which is most beautifully written is the " Aphorisms 
of Hippocrates;" another is the "Melissa (Bee) of 
Antonius. 1 ' The latter was written, as the copyist 
testifies, in the year 1587. 

LIVARGI. 

April 16, 1828 — We set out about two hours 
before day-light; and at sun-set arrived at the 
Village of Livargi. On the way we crossed the 
River Hophias (the Ancient Lad on), one of the 
finest streams in the Peloponnesus. All along its 
banks, plane-trees abound, deriving nourishment 
from its waters. They strongly remind me of the 
beautiful similitudes in the First Psalm, and in 
Jeremiah xvii. 8. In the East, this and various 
other Scriptural images, which are furnished by 
the peculiarity of the climate, are well understood. 
In our own country, where moisture never fails, 
their force is not perceived. 

Approaching Tripotamo, we saw, on the left, the 



THE MOREA. 



347 



Monastery erected by the Monk who lately became 
so famous throughout the Morea. This old man 
preached to the Greeks to abstain from theft and 
other sins ; and strongly pressed upon them to fast 
perpetually — to abstain from the duties of marriage 
— to give up all Turkish property which had fallen 
into their hands — and to use no other weapon than 
the sign of the Cross. He solemnly assured the 
misguided multitudes, that in this manner the Turks 
would all perish, and themselves would be defended 
from on high. I should myself have been rather 
disposed to consider the man as deceived, than a de- 
ceiver, were it not for the immense sums of money 
which he amassed by means of his preaching. I have 
been assured that he collected no less than 700,000 
piastres, the offerings of the enthusiastic multitudes. 
Their eyes were opened when Ibrahim Pasha came 
and put the old man to death, and took possession 
of his treasures. 

April 17, 1828 — This morning I enjoyed much 
freedom in preaching in the principal Church. I 
warned my hearers of their danger; and admon- 
ished them, that in no other name under heaven 
could they hope for salvation, except the Name 
of Christ. 

In Livargi are about 150 houses. From Ibrahim 
Pasha they have suffered nothing ; as they submitted 
to the Turks, or " worshipped," according to the 
common expression. From their own country- 



348 



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men, however, they met with severe sufferings : 
Sisinnes and Gennaeos came, and, according to their 
account, ruined them by exactions. Here is a 
Schoolmaster, with about forty scholars : I gave 
him Tracts. The inhabitants have also resolved 
to establish a Public School, and have engaged a 
Master. 

April 18, 1828 — I feel persuaded that a very 
serious religious impression has been produced on 
many persons in Livargi. May it be permanent ! I 
proceeded to the Monastery of Sopato, and found 
there a considerable number of vellum Manuscripts 
of the Fathers. Had any Traveller the time to ex- 
amine the Manuscripts which still exist in Greece, I 
believe he might find some valuable relics. At 
Sopato are about 150 houses. 



KALAVRITA. 

April 19 — The road to Kalavrita is at first moun- 
tainous ; and all the hills are adorned with forests. 
We found scarcely any thing but ruins in the town 
of Kalavrita : before the Revolution it had about 
800 houses, Turkish and Greek. I noticed that the 
Greeks had treated a large Mosque here as we find 
that the Israelites, under Jehu, treated the Temple 
of Baal, 2 Kings x. 27. 



THE MOREA. 



349 



MEGASPELAION. 

We arrived in the evening at Megaspelaion. 
This is by far the most extensive Monastic Esta- 
blishment in the Morea. It contains 150 Monks. 
During- the Revolution, it. has become a species 
of fortress, having a very strong position. There 
were assembled here no less than 5000 Refugees ; 
and though Ibrahim Pasha came twice and made 
attempts upon them, he was unable to effect any 
thing. The Caloyers informed me that the Monas- 
tery was founded 1400 years ago ; but their papers 
are lost. The great attraction to Megaspelaion 
is a celebrated picture of the Panagia, which they 
seriously believe to be the workmanship of the 
Evangelist Luke. A considerable part of the Mon- 
astery is, as its name denotes, " a Large Cave." A 
striking precipice of 400 feet impends so far over it, 
as almost to secure it from any annoyance from 
above ; and it is surrounded by the most romantic 
scenery. 

April 20, 1828 : Sunday — This morning I preached 
in the Church, from these words — If ye then be risen 
with Christ, seek those things which are above. A 
very large number of persons was present, not only 
of the Caloyers, but also of the Refugees. They 
listened with great attention. 

Let me record it as an instance of peculiar liber- 



350 



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ality in the Oriental Church and in the Greek 
Nation, that a Protestant Minister has been per- 
mitted so often to preach in their Churches, and 
even at the most solemn Services of their Religion. 
Whatever may be the future state of Greece, I 
shall always cherish amongst my fondest remem- 
brances these instances of kindly feeling ; and I 
shall earnestly pray, May God bestow on this Church 
the privilege of Philadelphia (Rev. iii. 8), Behold, 
I have set before thee an open door, and no man 
can shut it t and may all those who are permitted, 
as Heralds of the Gospel, to occupy this sacred 
opportunity of doing good, be men filled with the 
most tender affection towards the members of this 
communion ; and endowed with such heavenly 
wisdom, and aided by such divine power, that they 
may be enabled to apply to the Oriental Church 
the words of the Prophet, Arise, shine, for thy 
light is come, and the glory of the Lord is risen 
upon thee ! 

April 21, 1828 — With Germanos and others, I 
have had valuable opportunities of pointing out the 
leading errors of the Greeks : when questioned by 
them on various subjects, I declared my faith, and 
gave my reasons for it. When Truth is developed 
in this friendly manner, the effect is good. 



THE MOREA. 



351 



PHONIA. 

Our journey to-day has been of a most moun- 
tainous description. We reached the region of 
snow, and looked down upon the Gulf of Lepanto. 
The common Crocus, the Fumaria Bulbosa, a Hy- 
acinth, and many other plants, were flowering beau- 
tifully on the very verge of the snow. We traversed 
extensive Pine Forests ; and, after descending from 
the lofty mountain of Chelmos, found a very popu- 
lous country. In all directions, villages appeared 
beautifully situated : the principal is Klouchines. 
On the neighbouring summit of Chelmos one of the 
greatest disasters befel the Greeks which they have 
experienced at the hand of Ibrahim Pasha. A vast 
concourse of people had fled to that lofty eminence, 
supposing that it would prove inaccessible to the 
Arabs : but, unhappily, the words of Jeremiah were 
literally applicable to them — Truly, in vain is sal- 
vation hoped for from the hills and from the mul- 
titude of mountains (iii. 23). Neither rocks nor 
snows prevented the Arabs from springing, like 
wolves, upon their prey ; and hundreds of the poor 
Greeks were precipitated headlong down the rocks, 
and hundreds led away into captivity. 

The women, in these parts, are of a most labo- 
rious character : they are everywhere seen at work 
in the fields, and the most toilsome employments 



352 



TOUR IX 



of agriculture are performed by their hands. The 
men, as I am informed, leave them for five months 
or more in the year ; and are employed in Napoli, 
Hydra, and other towns, in masonry, carpentry, 
and similar occupations. The women, as in many 
other parts of the East, wear a profusion of orna- 
ments. The language of Canticles, i. 10, is literally 
applicable to them. 

In the Monastery of Agios Georgios, near Pho- 
nia, I found an opportunity of proclaiming the 
Truth to some Monks and others : a serious im- 
pression was made. There are about thirty Caloyers 
in this Monastery. At Phonia, or rather the 
Kalybia of Phonia, I am spending the night. In 
this village there are 400 houses : it is a bustling 
place. 

April 22, 1828 — Our route led us along the Lake 
of Phonia. This collection of waters is a singular 
phenomenon. Before the commencement of the 
Revolution, there was but the semblance of a lake, 
the waters escaping through a cavity in the earth ; 
but, in the year 1821, this cavity was, in all proba- 
bility, choked up, as the waters since that time have 
been continually overspreading the plain, and at 
present compose a lake not much less than Derwent- 
Water. There is little doubt they will still continue 
to increase, and indeed rise to the same level at 
which they have arrived on some former occasions : 
two years will, probably, bring them to the traces 



THE MORE A. 



353 



of the water-mark mentioned by Pausanias, which 
are still visible. The country people consider this 
event as miraculous ; and relate, that the same 
occurrence took place when the Turks conquered 
the Morea from the Venetians. They have been 
great sufferers by the inundation, as they have lost 
their fine vineyards and corn-land ; and perhaps, in 
time, may lose some of their houses. The moun- 
tains around the Lake are beautifully clothed with 
forests, and capped with snow. 

After leaving this scene behind us, we descended 
into another plain, at the further extremity of which 
we reached the Lake of Stymphalus, now called 
Zaracca, On the road we noticed the ruins of a 
Khan. These houses of refreshment were formerly 
common in the Morea, being", at convenient distance 
between towns, lodging -places for wayfaririg men 
(Jeremiah ix. 2) ; but they have all been destroyed. 1 
In the Lake of Zaracca we observed the Kataba- 
thron, into which the waters are precipitated : they 
emerge twenty miles distant, at the source of the 
River Erasinos, near Argos. The journey from 
this lake to Agios Georgios is not very interesting. 
A fertile plain, on which Phlius was situated, pre- 
cedes the last-mentioned village. Agios Georgios 
contains about 300 houses. 



1 See page 25. 



354 



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NAPOLI. 

April 23, 1828 — I arrived in Napoli soon after 
mid-day. The road for about two hours ascends 
and descends gentle hills ; and afterwards, for four 
hours, crosses the fine Plain of Argos. On the 
way, one of the muleteers told me a story which 
reminded me of David's approaching the encamp- 
ment of King Saul in the night, and carrying off 
the spear and the cruse of water (1 Sam. xxvi. 12). 
The narrator entered the Turkish camp in the 
night, and took off a fine horse, and, from the very 
bolster of the sleeping Turk, a musket, yataghan, 
and two pistols. Such events are not unfrequent in 
Greek and Turkish warfare. 

The fig-tree is now in the state to which our 
Saviour alludes, in His prophecy concerning the 
destruction of Jerusalem — its branch is tender, and 
putteth forth leaves ; hence we know that summer is 
nigh (Matt. xxiv. 32). 

April 25, 1828 — During my tour, I continually 
distributed the Malta Publications : and to-day I 
have put in circulation 1000 Tracts, by selling them 
at a low price — three paras a piece : they will 
speedily be dispersed through the Morea. A supply 
of Scriptures, which I expected, is not arrived. 

April 30 — Tzounes, who has just been appointed 
Governor of Upper Messina, called, and informed 



THE MOREA. 



355 



me that the other day he had been President at the 
Assembly of the District of Argos, convened for 
the election of Demogerontes. He had caused a 
prayer, in the modern language, addressed to the 
Deity, and without a single allusion to the media- 
tion of Saints, to be publicly read at the opening 
of the Assembly. I heard it repeated ; and was 
much delighted to perceive such an auspicious 
beginning of reformation in Public Prayer. 

May 1 — Tomaras informs me that a large number 
of the Turkish Women, who were taken captives in 
the war, have been baptized and married. He 
supposes that in Syra there may be fifty of this 
description. 

May 3 — I had intended to sail this evening for 
Syra ; but so great an alarm everywhere prevails in 
consequence of the breaking out of the plague at 
Hydra, that I cannot depart without the prospect 
of a long quarantine : hence I deem it advisable to 
defer my voyage. 

KIVERI. 

May 5, 1828 — I left Napoli yesterday evening, 
with Mr. Finlay, a Scotch Gentleman ; and came 
to Argos. Just before leaving Napoli, my man, 
Peter, arrived from Spezzie ; having sold books 
there to the value of 125 piastres. I started with 
Mr. Finlay soon after sun- rise. We passed the 



356 



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Fountain of the Erasinos, now called Kephallaria, 
and the Lernsean Marsh. I observe that the 
peasants in Greece not only still carry their wine to 
market in skins, but also their milk. Such, in all 
probability, was the bottle of milk which Jael 
opened for Sisera (Judges iv. 19). Two bottles of 
wine (1 Sam. xxv. 18) appear to an English reader 
but a trifling present for David and his numerous 
companions ; but two skins of wine, which they 
doubtless were, are something much more consider- 
able, being a load for an ass or a mule, as I have 
often witnessed. 

General Jarvis, an American Gentleman in the 
Greek Service, who had very hospitably received 
us last night, accompanied us as far as " the Mills." 
He informs me, that in the Province of Maina it is 
common to plow with an ox and an ass together, 
a practice forbidden by the Law of Moses (Deut. 
xxii. 10). At the distance of thirty minutes from 
the Mills, is Kiveri, a village of twenty houses : on 
the way, are rice-grounds of considerable extent. 
The well-known practice of keeping the rice- 
grounds under water renders applicable to them, 
even more than to corn-lands, the expression of 
Eccles. xi. 1. Cast thy bread upon the waters ; for 
thou shalt find it after many days. 



» 



THE MOREA. 



357 



ASTROS. 



The road from Kiveri to Astros leads, for the 
most part, over uninteresting hills, near the sea- 
shore: the whole distance from Argos to Astros 
is six hours. The neighbouring Village of Agiannes 
is the chief centre of population, in the vicinity 
of Astros : it contains 250 families, and is distant 
from thence three hours-and-a-half. Astros itself 
is at present little more than the scala, or landing- 
place. In sight are the Kalybia of Prastos and 
Karakovouni. Before the Revolution, there existed 
at Agiannes a School of Mutual Instruction and 
of Ancient Greek : it was founded by Demetrius 
Kartzotes ; and possesses a library which, for 
Greece, is considerable, and contains most of the 
Greek Classics and Fathers. I was interested at 
finding here a small production of Asopius, which 
might be called the Modern- Greek Reader: it is a 
collection of moral pieces, of a very interesting 
nature. One of the stories particularly attracted 
my attention, as it shews that a method of ad- 
ministering justice similar to that usually styled 
" The judgment of Solomon" still prevails in the 
East (I Kings iii. 16 — 28). I shall relate the anec- 
dote, not exactly as it occurs in the text, but with 
the addition of names and other circumstances, as 
I have learned them from a native of Joannina. 



358 



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Two Christians were on a journey from Salonica 
to Joannina. One of them, finding himself in want 
£>f money, resorted to his friend's benevolence, and 
obtained from him the loan of a considerable sum. 
The latter demanded no security for the re-payment 
of his money ; but relied on a verbal promise, that 
he should be reimbursed at the journey's end. 
After reaching Joannina, the borrower proved so 
ungrateful and unjust, as not only to refuse the 
payment of his debt, but actually to disclaim all 
knowledge of the circumstance. What can the 
creditor do ? He appeals to the judgment of Ali 
Pasha : he states the wrong which had been done 
him : but, as he is unable to bring forward any 
document or witness in proof of his allegation, the 
accused denies the whole. " Was there nothing at 
the place," says Ali Pasha, " which could prove a 
witness of the transaction — not even stones or 
trees 1 " " Yes,' 7 replied the accuser, " there was 
a large plane-tree." — " Go, then," rejoined the 
judge, " bring hither a branch from the plane-tree, 
and let the other remain till your return." He 
instantly departed ; and forthwith the Pasha began 
to amuse the company with the relation of such 
stories as are frequent in the East. After some 
time, he perceived the attention of the accused to 
be deeply engaged in the entertaining narratives : 
he therefore suddenly addressed himself to him, 
with the words — " Well, fellow ! has the other not 



THE MOREA. 



359 



yet returned?" — " Returned ! " he replies; "the 
distance, please your Highness, is by no means 
small." — " Ah, you wretch!" says Ali Pasha, " you 
know the place, then, where you received the 
money, but of the money itself you have no re- 
collection ! " He instantly gives orders that the 
culprit be well bastinadoed, and that he refund the 
money to its rightful owner. 

At Astros we were hospitably entertained, in the 
house, or rather Castle, of Zaphyropulos ; but the 
Master was absent, and his brother did the honours. 
A wish was expressed to hear me preach on some 
Sunday or Feast-day ; and I hope that, on another 
occasion, I may have that favour. The Castle 
proved impregnable to the desultory warfare of 
Ibraham's troops : only sixty-four men were within 
it for some days, but, afterwards, they received 
reinforcements from Napoli. On the hill are some 
old Cyclopian walls, of a very rude description. A 
Priest informed me, that, the same morning, he 
had baptized a Turkish Boy. The sea was the 
baptistry. 

May 6, 1828 — In consequence of the embarrass- 
ments thrown in the way of travellers by the report 
of plague, I had judged it expedient to return 
to-day to Argos, and accordingly proceeded for an 
hour-and-a-half in that direction ; but, on the way, 
my feelings reproached me so strongly for abandon- 
ing Mr. Finlay, that I could not rest till I had 



360 



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turned my horse's head and gone in quest of him. 
As I knew that he intended to visit the Monastery 
of Lukos, and Agios Andreas, I proceeded to the 
road leading from the latter place to Karakovouni, 
and there awaited his arrival. How often have I 
to regret a want of attention to the wishes and 
happiness of others ! May God forgive my selfish- 
ness; and enable me to attend daily to the com- 
mandment, Thou shalt love thy neighbour as 
thyself! A kind and obliging deportment often 
preaches more effectually than long sermons. 

On the Plain of Astros, I observe that wine- 
presses are still to be met with in the vineyards. 
More frequently the grapes are pressed out at 
home. Thus, in our Lord's parable (Matt. xxi. 33), 
the householder planted a vineyard, and dug a 
wine-press in it. The villages which border the 
plains have been utterly destroyed by the Arabs. 
How applicable to the Morea is the language of the 
Prophet — Your country is desolate ; your cities arj 
burned with fire : your land, strangers devour it in 
your presence : and it is desolate, as overthrown by 
strangers \ (Isaiah i. 7.) 



KARAKOVOUNI. 

The distance from Astros to this place is four 
hours. The number of houses is 120, but many 
of them are vacant. During the Revolution, 120 



THE MOREA. 



361 



men have perished : the number of families now 
resident is 80. Here, as in many other parts of the 
Morea, it is usual to have both a summer and a 
winter residence. Thus the whole population of 
Karakovouni spend their summer on this elevated 
situation ; but, on the approach of winter, they 
remove to their village, which, as usual, is called 
the Kalybia (Cottages), and which is situated on 
the edge of the plain. I found one Priest here, 
but no School. An hour from hence is the Monas- 
tery of Orthokosta ; in which is a Manuscript of 
Methodius of Patara, prophesying the Greek Re- 
volution, and subsequent plague, famine, and other 
remarkable events : such is the information which 
is here given me. I have heard much more fre- 
quently of the Prophecies of Agathangelos : in 
them the Greeks repose much faith ; and I have 
heard, indeed, so many extraordinary things con- 
cerning them, that I regret my want of time and 
opportunity to examine them. 



LENIDI. 

May 7, 1828 — From Karakovouni to Lenidi is a 
distance of about 4 hours 53 minutes. It is situated 
in a deep hollow, between stupendous precipices ; is 
beautifully adorned with olives ; and is asserted to 
contain 1000 houses and five churches. 

May 8 — Visited the School of Theodosius, and 
R 



362 



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was much pleased with it : there are forty scholars ; 
and the Master, having been educated at Haivali, 
is a man of information : it is the best Ancient- 
Greek School which I have seen in the Morea. I 
am sorry to say, that there is not, at present, any 
Lancasterian School at Lenidi. Prastos and Lenidi 
belong to the same persons ; Prastos being the 
summer, Lenidi the winter residence: but, as the 
Arabs have burned Prastos, at present the inha- 
bitants spend even their summer at Lenidi. The 
heat would be almost insufferable at Lenidi, were 
it not that during the day a fine inbat continually 
blows from the sea ; and during the night a land- 
breeze blows down the glen, in an opposite di- 
rection. 

The district which I am now visiting is usually 
called Tzakonia, and is remarkable for having a 
dialect peculiar to itself. This language is spoken 
in Lenidi, Kastanitza, and Sitina, by a population 
of 6000 or 7000 persons : the Modern Greek is also 
well understood by them, but, amongst themselves, 
they speak Tzakoniat. The little observation which 
I had time to make inclines me to believe that it 
is nothing more than a dialect of the Hellenic, under 
a different form of corruption. Some Ancient Greek 
words are used, which are not to be met with in 
Romaic. Others are employed in both dialects, but 
with a different pronunciation ; and some words are 
used, the derivation of which I have not had 



THE MOREA. 



363 



opportunity to investigate. Colonel Leake has given 
a Vocabulary of this language, in his Researches. 

May 11, 1 828 : Sunday — This morning, I preach- 
ed in the principal Church, to a large Congregation, 
from the words, Be ye reconciled to God. In the 
evening, two persons called upon me, one of whom 
appeared to have been very seriously impressed 
under the morning's sermon. I thank God for such 
appearances of success. It is such instances as 
this which afford me satisfaction ; not the compli- 
ments which some others employ. I had much 
conversation with Theodosius ; and spoke to him 
very plainly on the guilty fear of those persons 
who, though knowing better, still leave their country 
in ignorance. I asked him, if his conscience did 
not reprove him for such conduct ] He replied, 
" No." To me it is surprising, how many enlight- 
ened Greeks can feel at ease in the habitual con- 
formity to practices and doctrines which they know 
to be erroneous. 



ASTROS. 

May 12, 1828 — On my return to Astros, one 
of the Muleteers, a Turkish Youth, informed me 
that there are about thirty Turkish Slaves at Le- 
nidi. He expressed a wish to become a Christian ; 
but I found him totally ignorant of the nature 
of our Religion. Were I a rich man, what delight 
R 2 



364 



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should I have in taking with me such young men, 
and providing for them a Christian Education. At 
Astros I found such an opportunity of speaking 
on Religion as was little short of a regular ser- 
mon : but I fear that I spoke too severely. Of 
what importance it is, that affection be always 
blended with seriousness ! 

ARGOS. 

May 13 — Returned to Argos. In Greece, the 
shepherds count their flocks, by admitting them one 
by one into a pen. This is the custom to which 
Jeremiah alludes (xxiii. 13) : In the cities of the 
mountains, &c. shall the flocks pass again under 
the hand of him ielleth them. General Jarvis in- 
forms me that Ibrahim Pasha counted the Greeks 
who surrendered to him at Navarino, in the same 
manner. 

May 16 — The barley harvest is now going for- 
ward. As Argos has the greatest extent of corn- 
land in the Morea, at least at present, a great 
number of persons are assembled here from all 
parts, in order to glean. I see the young women, 
in particular, returning from their employment, 
with large quantities upon their backs, Here, then, 
we find a custom prevailing similar to that in which 
Ruth was engaged (iL 3). 

May 18, 1828 — I have interchanged visits with 



THE MOREA. 



365 



the Bishop of Tripolitza. He and the Bishop of 
Andrussa are the only two who survived the severe 
imprisonment which six prelates suffered at Tripo- 
litza, in the beginning of the Revolution. Besides 
them, twelve Priests were imprisoned, of whom 
only four survived. Who can conceive the horrors 
of Turkish imprisonment ? I have had a partial 
view of it at Constantinople, in the case of our poor 
Jewish Converts. 

There are men here who have an art somewhat 
similar to that for which Egypt has long been fa- 
mous. They handle, and carry in their bosom, 
not only the other species of serpents, but even 
vipers ; and gain money by selling a medicine, 
which, as they pretend, is a preservative against the 
serpent's bite. 

May 24 — During the last week, alarms of plague 
have been renewed ; and it has made its appearance 
at Cheli, four or five hours distant. Not only has 
all ingress from the country been, in consequence, 
cut off ; but the shops have been closed, and even 
the Schools and Churches. Serious apprehensions 
are also entertained of the renewal of warfare on 
the part of Ibrahim Pasha. Amidst all the con- 
fusion of war and pestilence, may the Cause of 
Christ make progress ! 

The Greeks have the superstitious idea, that the 
Plague, or rather the cause of the plague, is a 
supernatural Female, who walks about at night, 



366 



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robed in black, enters the houses, and notes the 
victims who are destined to destruction. My man 
quotes the authority of persons who pretend to 
have seen her. "Without imputing to the Inspired 
Writer any such ridiculous conception, is it impos- 
sible that the expression in Psalm xci. 6, may have 
been borrowed from such a notion l — the Pestilence 
that walketh in darkness. 

May 26, 1828— The Greeks have carried their 
antipathy to the Turks to such a pitch, that they 
have destroyed all the storks in the country. On 
inquiring the reason, I was informed, " The stork 
is a Turkish bird : it never used to build its nest 
on the house of a Greek, but always on that of a 
Turk ! " The tenderness which the Turks display 
toward the feathered tribe is indeed a pleasing trait 
in their character. 

May 29 — In Greece, horses are employed to 
tread out the corn, as was sometimes the case in 
Judaea (Isaiah xxviii. 8): and with regard to them, 
the law is observed which Moses gave to the Jews 
concerning oxen (Deut. xxv. 4). Hence they find 
means, in the progress of their labour, to partake 
pretty largely both of the straw and of the grain. 
I also see the Greeks frequently winnowing with 
the shovel (Isaiah xxx. 24). The various allusions 
to harvest, and its concomitant observances, in the 
Sacred Writings, derive much illustration from the 
practices of these countries. 



THE MOREA. 



367 



My stay in Argos was of a month's duration. I 
had hoped, during this interval, to be able to aid 
the circulation of the Scriptures in the various 
parts of the Morea which I had visited ; but, un- 
fortunately, the plague had excited such alarm, 
that Napoli was barred against all ingress, and I 
had no opportunity of obtaining the New Testa- 
ments which had arrived from Syra. I found oc- 
casion, however, to make known the Truth to various 
individuals ; and I rejoice to recollect the names 
of several young men who lent an attentive ear to 
my remarks. I now repeat an observation which 
I made more than two years ago, that everywhere 
I discover some persons to whom religious Truth 
is a grateful subject. On the one hand, they be- 
come enlightened as to the various corruptions 
of their own communion ; and, on the other, they 
escape from the still more dangerous gulf of Infi- 
delity, into which so many fall headlong. God 
has bestowed on me the inexpressible favour to 
sow the incorruptible seed of Revealed Truth at 
Argos, and in various other places ; and I feet 
strongly persuaded that He will also give the in- 
crease. It is manifest, that, in various parts of 
the East, a work of preparation for the reception 
of Christian Truth is most decidedly going for- 
ward. I say not, that many persons have arrived 
at that establishment of Christian character which 
is designated by the term " Regeneration ; " but 



368 



TOUR IN 



I do affirm, that many have had their minds so 
far enlightened, and so far interested in this im- 
portant subject, that, when the door for proclaiming 
the Gospel shall be more widely and effectually 
opened, there is a good hope that more individuals 
will gladly come forward, will embrace the wished- 
for opportunities, and will become willing converts 
to the true doctrines of Christianity. At present, 
every one who is interested in the cause of Christ, 
contemplates the political aspect of Greece with 
intense interest. He frequently inquires, Whether 
the New Government will lend assistance, or other- 
wise, to the efforts which are in progress for the 
benefit of its subjects ? Whatever the answer 
may be, convinced I am that our labour has not 
been in vain. If not the great good which we 
hope, yet some good will assuredly be the result. 
Thousands of copies of the New Testament are 
gone forth ; and other testimonies to the Truth, 
both oral and printed, have been given. Thus 
are thousands of voices crying in the wilderness, 
te Prepare ye the way of the Lord: make straight 
in the desert a highway for our God ! " (Isaiah 
xl. 3.) We leave, then, our humble efforts to the 
blessing of the Most High. 

Before I left Argos,. the plague had advanced 
as far as Omer-baka, a village only an hour-and-a 
half distant : and letters from Napoli now inform 
us that it has found its way into Argos itself. I 



THE MOREA. 



369 



find much cause for gratitude, that, under these 
circumstances, I was enabled to reach Syra. I 
could not pass by the route of Epidaurus and 
iEgina, as I had intended ; for the road was closed : 
but I found means to reach Kalamaki, near Corinth ; 
and there the health-officer was so polite as to procure 
me a passage for Syra. 



R 5 



APPENDIX, 

(No. 1.) 



JOURNAL 

OF 

JOANNES LAZARIDES. 

(See p, 123.) 



July 8, 1828 — I arrived at the Point of Andros, 
from whence I made a tour of the neighbouring 
villages. I found a young Cephalonian, with whom 
I conversed, at length, on religious duties, on 
Regeneration, and that by the works of the Law no 
one can be justified (Rom. iii. 20) ; and that God 
hath given us eternal life, and this life is in His 
Son (1 John v. 11). In the end, he became pleased, 
and professed his need of reformation. I sold a 
considerable number of Gospels (i. e. New Testa- 
ments) and Tracts ; and presented copies of the 
latter, gratis, to many poor Children. From thence 
I went to the Kastro of Andros. 



374 



JOURNAL OF 



July 12 — Conversation with a learned Latin (L e. 
Roman Catholic). He expressed the opinion, that 
the English take the words of the Gospel according 
to the letter ; and brought forward, as an example, 
1 Tim. iii. 12, i. e. " they marry: — but the Wife 
of the Latin Priests is their Church." I read to 
him 1 Tim.iv. 1 — 3: The Spirit speaketh expressly, 
that in the latter times some shall depart from the 
faith — -forbidding to marry, &c: and he remained 
without answer. I also proved to him concerning 
the Bread and Wine, that they are not changed, 
but remain in their original substance : and that 
the Scripture nowhere speaks of the Mediation of 
Saints, Angels, and the Holy Virgin : and even 
concerning the danger of Idolatry ; and that they 
teach their people according to their own Tradition, 
and not according to the Gospel : (Matt. xv. 8, 9.) 
He was almost persuaded by my words. 

July 18, 1828: Lamyra — Conversation with 
Hadji Papas Elias, concerning the Seven Mysteries. 
I pointed out to him two only as more essential, 
Baptism and the Communion, but with extreme 
friendship ; — and spoke of the Traditions of their 
Fathers, who have handed down things at variance 
with the Gospel ; and the inj ury resulting from 
them ;— and concerning the new Forms of Prayer, 
and Uncanonical Books, which ought not to be read 
in the Church, but only those which are Canonical, 
and which these are ; — and that the modern Idolatry 



JOANNES LAZARIDES. 



375 



{work of men's hands) resembles the Idolatry of the 
Ancient Greeks. I also read to him the passage 
Rom. i. 23. After I had spoken concerning many 
similar subjects, he said to me, " O that we might 
be counted worthy, Brother, to see one fold and one 
Shepherd; and that then the subjects of accusation, 
and the errors, might be obliterated from amongst 
us!" 

I then passed to Mesaria, and was engaged in 
selling and distributing from noon to evening. I 
visited two other villages, Menites and Apikia. 
Throughout the whole of Andros, I did not leave 
children, or small or great, without bringing them 
to an enthusiasm for reading such useful books, 
They have also a School, well built ; to which Mr. 
Brewer presented ten dollars, for the payment of 
the Master. Hitherto, one of the Committee retains 
the ten dollars, and their School is not in a good 
state ; since those Children only learn to read who 
are able to pay the Master. I therefore said twice 
to the Committee, many others being present : 
" Brethren, that present of the ten dollars was 
solely for the poor Children, who have not the 
means to pay a Master. You ought to have per- 
formed your duty in harmony with our object : we 
ought to have seen your Children enlightened. But 
since, hitherto, you have neglected duties so plea- 
sing to God and so useful to the public, I now 
entreat you, in the name of God, to neglect them 



376 



JOURNAL OF 



no more. I really see the desire of your Children. 
I hope I have benefitted you all, both with words 
and with the distribution of the Word of God : and 
if I perceive that you have the desire and a change 
of mind, I will present you with 15 Gospels, gratis, 
for the poor Children ; which, after they have read 
and been catechised from them at least twice in the 
week, must be left in the Library of the School ; 
and thus must always remain there for successive 
scholars." They gave me promises, that, on the 
arrival of the Governor, Count Metaxa, they would 
act according to the advice which I had given them. 
Almost continually I was conversing in the style of 
exhortation in different parts, and often in assem- 
blies of many Christians : — " Brethren, what ad- 
vantage is it to us to abstain from various kinds 
of food, whilst we devour the flesh of our brethren 
with evil- speaking ; and with other impieties, by 
means of which we defile the true kind of fasting ? 
True Fasting consists in bringing into subjection our 
evil passions. There are some persons who abstain, 
during Lent, from smoking tobacco, and from 
coffee ; and who become inaccessible, and of down- 
cast appearance, in order to do honour to the Fast : 
and some adorn the pictures and temples of the 
Saints, whilst they oppress the innocent, and leave 
without assistance Christians suffering want, who 
are the temple of the Living God. And yet such 
persons imagine that they have accomplished all that 



JOANNES LAZARIDES. 



377 



is necessary for their salvation. No, no, Brethren, 
they have not accomplished what is necessary ; and, 
in fact, they subject themselves to the rebuke of 
Christ, by confining their piety to external obser- 
vances, and neglecting the weightier matters of the 
Law— judgment, mercy, and faith : Matt, xxiii. 
23. Such persons, according to the heavenly Truth, 
worship God in vain, with the lips only, and not 
with their heart ; and teach other doctrines — their 
own commandments: (Isaiah xxix. 13. Matt. xv. 
8, 9.) In order that we may avoid all unlawful 
worship, we must not have before us (as the Holy 
Scripture commands us) either an Image, or the 
likeness of any thing that is in heaven or in earth ; 
but, on the contrary, we must worship God with 
spirit and truth" 

Judgment of the persons present, and of one of 
the Committee : — Some said, that the Scripture 
does not speak for the Pictures. Others: " If, as 
we perceive, it is forbidden, we ought not even to 
have Pictures." Others : " If it does not permit 
even the likeness of any thing, what else is a Picture 
but the likeness of a Saint? " To whom I answered : 
"In truth it is not permitted : it were well that we 
had not such likenesses." I also read to them 
Romans i. 23. In conclusion, I trust their minds 
were impressed, and that they were comforted. In 
the whole of Andros, I sold 38 copies of the large 
Testament, and 28 of the small, and Tracts to the 



378 



JOURNAL OF 



value of 100 piastres ; besides what I bestowed 
gratuitously to many truly poor Children. 

Zea : Aug. 6, 1828 — Religious conversation with 
one who is a Deacon and Teacher of the School 
of Mutual Instruction. I asked him if it was long 
since he had read the whole of the Sacred Scrip- 
tures. " Scarcely ever have I read it," he replied; 
" since I had it not." I then presented him with 
one of the Diglotts (i. e. the large edition of the 
Ancient and Modern Greek) ; and when he was 
exceedingly delighted, I said, " Let us begin now 
and read a passage." I began to read 1 Tim. iii. ; 
and after he saw that the Bishop must be blameless, 
the husband of one wife, for a short time he 
reflected ; and then said to me, " Brother, what is 
that which it writes ? I do not believe it ; it must 
be an error." When he had taken the Scripture 
into his hands, he read the Original only, in order 
that he might search for the truth: and when he 
was well certified that the Deacon also must be the 
husband of one wife, he said to me, " Brother, were 
then is our wife ? " To whom I also read 1 Tim. iv. 
When he had understood this chapter, he said, 
" Truly our Caloyers (Monks) have apostatized 
from the Faith, and have hindered us to marry ! 
Do you know, Brother, what they promised me, that 
that I might become a Monk 1 They shewed me 
their fine robes, their silver plate, their good eating 
and drinking ; they flattered me, in order to make 



JOANNES LAZARIDES. 



379 



me a Caloyer ; and they even ordained me Deacon 
gratis." When I perceived that he found pleasure 
and liking for the Sacred Scriptures, I said to him : 
" Brother, you will find many such examples in the 
whole of the Scriptures, when you read them, cal- 
ling for assistance from on High." By degrees, I 
shewed him, that from Jesus Christ alone comes our 
salvation, 1 John v. 11, 12; — that our own works 
do not justify us, but faith in Jesus Christ; since 
we are justified gratuitously with His grace (Rom. 
iii. 2, to the end) ; — that good works are the fruit 
and evidence of true faith ; — that there is one God, 
and one Mediator, Jesus Christ; and through him 
we have access, by one Spirit, to the Father (1 Tim. 
ii. 5. Eph. ii. 18) ; — and that in the whole Sacred 
Scripture there is not found one single command to 
pray to, or to worship, Saints, Angels, or the Holy 
Virgin, but God only: (Matt. iv. 10. Phil. iv. 6. 
Acts x. 25, 26. Rev. xxii. 8, 9. Coloss. ii, 18.) 

He was persuaded by all my quotations, except 
concerning the Holy Virgin. He said: ' - It does 
not displease Christ, if I glorify his Mother." I 
replied to him : " My friend, we do not see any 
command in the Scriptures to pray to her, or infor- 
mation that she mediates for us, as I said before to 
you. See how Christ treats her, Matt. xii. 47, 48. 
John ii. 4. xviii. 26 ; knowing that we should after- 
wards deify her, as is at present the case with our 
nation. For when we say, " With all our heart, 



380 



JOURNAL OF 



soul, mind, and with our lips, we glorify thee," and 
when we call her " Queen of Heaven and Earth," 
what other adoration or glory remains for God? 
Does not the text Rom. i. 25. apply to us ? They 
ivorshipped the creature more than the Creator. I 
said to him, " Truly she was the most holy of 
Saints, but was not, however, God." At length, I 
convinced him. 

In our few private meetings with different per- 
sons, I openly disproved the Worship of Pictures. 
I represented the subject in this manner. " You 
say, that this Picture does miracles, but the other 
not : but if one has that power, the other also must 
have it. But since one does not possess that power 
neither can the other. Do you wish me to give you 
certainty ? Bring me any Picture you please ; and 
if, on breaking it, my hands fall off, then there is a 
miracle. Do you not see, that your most famous 
Pictures have been destroyed, at different times, by 
so many Infidels ; and that your sacred things have 
been trampled under foot ? And what did those 
Infidels suffer I they neither were blinded, nor did 
their hands fall off. Why? because the Pictures 
are not in harmony with God's will." They began 
to say to one another, " Our friend speaks well. 
We see, indeed, evident miracles at the present day. 
We see Infidels, Idolators, Savages, embracing the 
Sacred Gospel, and becoming truly followers and 
zealous Apostles of Christ — nations, and entire 



JOANNES LAZARIDES. 



381 



kingdoms, without superstitions, prejudices, and old 
traditions." I also spoke to them concerning the 
Lord's Supper, and Fasts, and Mysteries, that they 
are not as they imagine. I proved to them which 
are such according to the Gospel, and which are 
according to their Tradition. According to my 
ability, I taught them in different parts ; and in 
Coffee-houses I frequently read to them the more 
requisite parts of the Sacred Gospel. 

I fear that I may trouble you with my prolixity. 
I beg you to entreat the Lord for me, to open and 
regenerate my heart and mind, that I may become, 
in future, useful to my Christian Brethren. Give 
my humble salutations to Mr. Benjamin Barker : 
tell him that I am eager to fulfil his commands ; and 
that I attend to my employment, knowing the things 
of this world to be dung and dross. Last of all, 
I entreat you to write, on my account, to my 
master, Mr. Leeves : from whom, after so many 
years' acquaintance, I shall not hide my respect, 
requesting that I may still render him my faithful 
services. May he live, and have me in his kind 
regards, as he always has had ! 

I remain, &c. 
JOANNES LAZARIDES, 



382 



APPENDIX, 

(No. II.) 



LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS. 

(See p. 135.) 



AiSeVi/xe Kvpie — 

"EpaOcc aito rov (piXovfAai; Kvgiov Kevve§7jy, on ^cr0e 
troiy.o<; vcc ava%agri<7YiTe e*$ ZaKvvBov. 'Eyo'vw /xe rov <rc- 
$a<T\t.iov (piXov ratq e£%a<j Ktxi rue, lliKaq^ov, vitep ry; vyietaq, 
kou nvevfLartKvjq Kapitoipopiat; rcov lepZv ayuvccvcrai;. 2a< 
areXXo) rpta avaracriKa. ypa^ara* p?) (3iao-6yjre ofAwq ya 
y.€ra^7]T€ elq rr t v JleXoTtovy/ja-ov, aXX* aKpifiwi; nXypopopyQrjre 
avrov els rrjv Z&kvvQov nep) rr\q Ka,Ta<n dae&s ruv e/ce? 
itpay^uTcov. 

XapiTi Kvptov kou ScoTvjpog yfAav vyialvoo' inaveXafia kou 
rovq ayuva$ rov inayyeXfAccro't; pov. UocpaKctXa vet (xe iv~ 
Qvixyo-Oe irdvrore raq ivpoq Geov evxaao-ocq' /*ey&j /xe 0X0 
to <re/3a?, kou ryv iv Xpiara aydwrjv, 

el<; ra<; itpo<Traya,<r<Ta$ itpoQvu.oq, 

N. BAMBA2. 

TRANSLATION. 

" Rev. Sir— 

" I have learnt, from our friend Dr. Kennedy, 
that you are ready to depart for Zante. I unite my 
own prayers with those of our reverend friend, for 



LETTER OF PROFESSOR BAMBAS. 383 



the spiritual success of your sacred exertions. I 
send you three Letters of Recommendation. Be 
not in haste, however, to cross over into the Pelo- 
ponnesus ; but gain accurate information in Zante 
concerning the state of affairs there. 

" By the grace of our Lord and Saviour, I am in 
health, and have resumed the labours of my profes- 
sion. I entreat you to remember me always in your 
prayers to God. I remain, with all respect, and 
with love in Christ, 

" attentive to your commands, 

" N. BAMBAS." 



PRINTED BY L. B. SEELEY AND SONS, WESTON GREEN, 
THAMES DITTON, SURREY. 



n /r 



